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PBCrunch posted:I would like to see that same comparison but with unoxygenated wort with olive oil added as well. I was gonna say, pretty sure New Belgium trialed that and rejected it, but I see the paper is written by one of their brewers so you know that  I don't recall why they decided not to switch over to olive oil, if I had to guess it's due to the increased fermentation time. When you're in the business of selling beer, the faster you can get poo poo out of the tank and onto store shelves, the better. Definitely seems like an intriguing alternative for homebrewers, though. There's a good discussion of the topic over on the Pro Brewer forum.Regardless I think it's pretty friggin cool that a brewery the size of new Belgium is willing to try such wild experiments. Then again if you read the commercial beer thread here you know I'm an unabashed NBB fanboy  Sierra Nevada is another one that's always doing original research.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:07
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There should be tons and tons of scholarly papers on O2 affects on sach. I forget where I remember if seeing the summary but O2 saturated on atmospheric levels is well within the sweet zone for sach growth. Dosing with pure O2 can get to the one true fastest growth level of oxygen but its hardly required. In more practical considerations some preferable flavor compounds can be attributed to a non ideal oxygen level so just because you can doesn't mean you will every time.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:16
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I've started using my autosiphon to move my cooled wort from the kettle to the fermenter, and while it's transferring I wiggle the hose around constantly to maximize oxygenation. It's definitely MUCH more effective than just swirling the carboy (which I also do). My yeasts already sprint to the end of fermentation so fast that I'd be afraid of adding pure 02 to the process. Opened a bottle of Columbus SMaSH (1 oz at 60/30/15/0, 5day dryhop) last night and it was way tastier than I thought it was going to be, even though it finished super low. Anyone else have any SMaSH recipes worth trying out? I like having a session pale on hand for when I'm feeling hoppy. E: The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Goons With Chickencheese > Home Brewing Thread III: WE GET IT YOU GET TO HANG OUT AND BREW AT NEW BELGIUM DOC
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Mar 18, 2013 18:24
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Here's the info relevant to us: http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_oxygenation.cfm Basically 10ppm is ideal for most worts and you can only get to 8ppm via shaking. That's good enough for most beers but I recently switched to a pure O2 setup from Williams Brewing (their setup comes with a stainless wand rather than flexible tubing) and have been getting better fermentations. I'd only worry about this after you have fermentation temperature and yeast pitch rates under control, I think those make way more of a difference.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:24
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I really need to begin making starters. Is it required to get a stir plate, or just the best way to make a starter?
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Mar 18, 2013 18:35
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ChiTownEddie posted:I really need to begin making starters. I just shake mine whenever I get around to it. Stir bars work better but I haven't gotten around to making a stir plate yet.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:46
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ChiTownEddie posted:I really need to begin making starters. Not required but it pretty much doubles your yeast production and, more importantly, makes you look like a mad scientist. edit: here's a fancy chart 
internet celebrity fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Mar 18, 2013 |
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Mar 18, 2013 18:49
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Homebrew stirplates are cheap and easy to make. I used some magnets scrounged from a dead hard drive, an old PC fan, an extra USB charger, and a project box from Rat Shack. Works great, and cost me $11 or something. A buddy of mine used an old Tupperware box for his and had all the other bits lying around, so he spent $0 on his.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:53
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If you don't feel like going the DIY route, I bought one from http://www.stirstarters.com/ that I'm pretty happy with.
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Mar 18, 2013 18:55
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crazyfish posted:If you don't feel like going the DIY route, I bought one from http://www.stirstarters.com/ that I'm pretty happy with. Seconding this. I've made a few big starters that have sent krausen all over the stir box and it keeps ticking. I realize there's not a whole lot of science that goes into it, but if you have the money and aren't looking to DIY one, it's pretty much the cheapest you'll find out there.
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Mar 18, 2013 19:21
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wattershed posted:I've made a few big starters that have sent krausen all over the stir box Just as an aside, Fermcap works very nicely in starters also. I did a 2-step starter a while ago because I had a 6-month-old smack pack, and while the first step was slow, the second step went nuts - but there was no issue with blowoff.
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Mar 18, 2013 19:26
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Jo3sh posted:Just as an aside, Fermcap works very nicely in starters also. I did a 2-step starter a while ago because I had a 6-month-old smack pack, and while the first step was slow, the second step went nuts - but there was no issue with blowoff. 2-step starter simply meaning you made one starter, and then made another afterwards to propagate even more yeast?
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Mar 18, 2013 19:35
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hellfaucet posted:2-step starter simply meaning you made one starter, and then made another afterwards to propagate even more yeast? Yeah, I made a starter and let it ferment out - this was slow and weak because the smackpack was old. Then I crash chilled and siphoned off the spent wort, made more wort, and added that to the cake from the first step. When that one finished, I crashed it again, poured off most of the spent wort, swirled up the cake, and pitched that into 5 gallons of 1.070 beer.
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Mar 18, 2013 19:46
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Jo3sh posted:Just as an aside, Fermcap works very nicely in starters also. I did a 2-step starter a while ago because I had a 6-month-old smack pack, and while the first step was slow, the second step went nuts - but there was no issue with blowoff. I use Fermcap religiously and it didn't help for some reason  Like, 5 drops in the 2L flask which had about 2L of wort in it to start. Works great in my boils, but poo poo in starters. Dunno why.
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Mar 18, 2013 19:59
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Docjowles posted:I was gonna say, pretty sure New Belgium trialed that and rejected it, but I see the paper is written by one of their brewers so you know that Yes, they rejected it due to increased fermentation time. I am willing to accept the compromise since I allow every batch to ferment at least two weeks. I am lazy and I don't want to spill wort so the olive oil addition seems to be good for my use. If you read the paper it says that the unoxygenated beer fermented with a tiny amount of olive oil was within all quality standards for their beer. It took 20-30% longer to ferment so it was not compatible with their needs. fullroundaction posted:I've started using my autosiphon to move my cooled wort from the kettle to the fermenter, and while it's transferring I wiggle the hose around constantly to maximize oxygenation. It's definitely MUCH more effective than just swirling the carboy (which I also do). My yeasts already sprint to the end of fermentation so fast that I'd be afraid of adding pure 02 to the process. I don't think this is doing you as much good as you would like since the solubility of oxygen in a hot liquid is significantly lower than its solubility in cold liquid. Unless you are transferring after your wort is down to fermentation temperatures, then forget what I said.
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Mar 18, 2013 20:19
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wattershed posted:Seconding this. I've made a few big starters that have sent krausen all over the stir box and it keeps ticking. I realize there's not a whole lot of science that goes into it, but if you have the money and aren't looking to DIY one, it's pretty much the cheapest you'll find out there. I had this happen like three days ago and I couldn't pinpoint a really funky smell coming from the area where I do my starters - the label on the bottom was caked with gross krausen-wort 
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Mar 18, 2013 20:26
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PBCrunch posted:<olive oil> Wasn't the amount of oil (almost) unmeasurably small at homebrew scales?
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Mar 18, 2013 20:36
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Jo3sh posted:Wasn't the amount of oil (almost) unmeasurably small at homebrew scales? For 5 gallons they recommended dipping the very tip of a toothpick into olive oil and then into wort, and it was still essentially overdosing.
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Mar 18, 2013 20:52
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It sounds like beer homeopathy to me.
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Mar 18, 2013 20:54
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Angry Grimace posted:I had this happen like three days ago and I couldn't pinpoint a really funky smell coming from the area where I do my starters - the label on the bottom was caked with gross krausen-wort I think I'll put a layer of saran wrap over the stir plate next time, and put the whole thing on a piece of aluminum foil with the edges turned up to keep the plate clean (on the bottom too, I was lucky enough to check underneath on my eruptions). Ever since I've started doing the 1.5-2L starters (decanting when I remember to do it) my fermentations haven't really kicked off in earnest until maybe 8 hours after pitching, then go hog wild for about 36 hours, then a rapid decline. I think it just kinda powers through the bulk of the fermentables then trickles along to completion. Previously, it was more of a gradual build-up over a few days, then a gradual slow-down. I have no clue how this effects the flavors, if it does at all.
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Mar 18, 2013 20:56
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I still use US-05 for the majority of my beers. Its just too easy, but I've been making an effort to switch over to liquid to increase my yeast choices, but it requires I actually think up the entire brew ahead of time, which can be difficult.
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Mar 18, 2013 21:25
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hellfaucet posted:This is the one I picked up from my LHBS. I got the O2 tank from Home Depot, in the tools section, near the welding supplies. O2 tank itself was under $10 and supposedly lasts a year or more, you definitely don't need to use much. The StirStarters plate is a great, cheap, out the door solution. They also provide the instructions on how to build one yourself which costs maybe $30 minus any parts you have already like a CPU fan.
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Mar 18, 2013 22:09
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I use a stone on a tube and it is generally fine but occasionally it wants to stay coiled and not go all the way to the bottom. A stone on some type of stick is probably they way to go.
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Mar 18, 2013 22:14
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CapnBry posted:I got the oxygenation setup from williams brewing which I like better because it has a cane attached to it. I figured with the regular vinyl tubing it might try to stay coiled and not go all the way to the bottom, and the metal cane guarantees that as well as lets me swirl the airstone around. I haven't done much shopping at William's Brewing, but drat, that cane makes a TON of sense. You're right about it floating itself to the top, I just kind of finagled with it to keep it down. Looks like they sell the cane separately  .
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Mar 18, 2013 22:15
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baquerd posted:It sounds like beer homeopathy to me.
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Mar 18, 2013 22:28
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nmfree posted:From what I've read the chemistry is actually sound, it's just that on a homebrew scale the amount needed is on the picoliter scale. Even the toothpick method is putting in 10x or 100x more than is needed. I wonder if overdosing it a bit in multistage starters would have a negative effect on the final brew.
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Mar 18, 2013 23:10
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Do any of you mead makers out there use marbles to displace the liquid volume in your carboys while aging? Is this really needed? Also, any issues with using caps to bottle instead of corks? Thanks in advance!
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Mar 18, 2013 23:15
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I'm thinking of switching the Oetiker stepless clamps, but I'm kind of clueless what size clamps to get. 3/8" ID beer line and I believe it's 5/16" ID thickwall for the gas line. My assumption is the 1/2" 13.3 for the beer?
Angry Grimace fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Mar 18, 2013 |
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Mar 18, 2013 23:16
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PBCrunch posted:I don't think this is doing you as much good as you would like since the solubility of oxygen in a hot liquid is significantly lower than its solubility in cold liquid. Read the first sentence you quoted 
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Mar 18, 2013 23:18
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hellfaucet posted:Do any of you mead makers out there use marbles to displace the liquid volume in your carboys while aging? Is this really needed? I've tried displacing with marbles. It takes a lot of marbles. You can achieve the same thing by pushing out the air with CO2 or nitrogen. Careful racking and proper additions of sulfites will protect against oxidation. If you're trying really hard to avoid them (some people are allergic) then it's an option. Caps are fine. I put a six pack or two of each batch into beer bottles for sampling during aging.
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Mar 18, 2013 23:55
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I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to get the marbles into the carboy without splashing the wort/must... I'd rather just purge with CO2, gently caress that 
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Mar 19, 2013 00:24
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CapnBry posted:I got the oxygenation setup from williams brewing which I like better because it has a cane attached to it. I figured with the regular vinyl tubing it might try to stay coiled and not go all the way to the bottom, and the metal cane guarantees that as well as lets me swirl the airstone around. I have the same thing, when it comes to equipment that makes my life easier, that tops the list. I loving hate shaking carboys.
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Mar 19, 2013 00:28
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RiggenBlaque posted:I have the same thing, when it comes to equipment that makes my life easier, that tops the list. I loving hate shaking carboys. I really like the aeration wand. I notice that MoreBeer has copied it and has a similar one now. The thing I really like about it is how easy it is to sanitize a wand - you don't have to disconnect anything and just stick it in some boiling water to make sure there isn't any caked on poo poo inside of it.
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Mar 19, 2013 00:55
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Angry Grimace posted:I'm thinking of switching the Oetiker stepless clamps, but I'm kind of clueless what size clamps to get. 3/8" ID beer line and I believe it's 5/16" ID thickwall for the gas line. My assumption is the 1/2" 13.3 for the beer? For completeness, 1/4" ID thickwall tubing uses a 14.5 oetiker clamp.
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Mar 19, 2013 01:38
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hellfaucet posted:I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to get the marbles into the carboy without splashing the wort/must... I'd rather just purge with CO2, gently caress that Put in the marbles first after figuring out how much headspace you have on 5 gallons of whatever.
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Mar 19, 2013 01:42
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hellfaucet posted:I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to get the marbles into the carboy without splashing the wort/must... I'd rather just purge with CO2, gently caress that Also consider having to sanitize a whole bunch of marbles, trying to get them into the mouth of the carboy (they get clogged in the funnel) and then afterwards pouring them out into a big bowl or colander and cleaning them off. Then find a place and container to store them until next time. Plus the marbles are tied up in aging for months so you need more for multiple batches. And they make the carboy even heavier than being full of liquid.
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Mar 19, 2013 03:06
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CapnBry posted:Your beer line is 3/8" or 3/16"? Standard thickwall 3/16" ID beverage tubing is the 13.3 clamp size. 5/16" ID thickwall gas line is 15.7. My kegeconnection gas distributor (the block kind) came with a 3/8" barb fitting on the inlet and it required a 17.0 to fit over it, and that I heat the gas tubing in some hot water to slide it on. ... and the 1/2 ID, 3/4 OD silicone tubing uses 21mm clamps.
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Mar 19, 2013 03:06
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Has anyone ever tried Mr. Beer? http://www.mrbeer.com My girlfriend got this for me for Christmas after I expressed a bit of interest in brewing my own beer. I made my own beer, a "Bavarian Weissbeer" (in quotes because who the gently caress really knows), following the instructions to the T. However, the beer I produced was somewhat weak and really rather thin tasting, nothing like Hoegaarden or Leffe. Did I do something wrong? Is this beer kit just crap? I had to boil some sort of weird goopy mix which I then fermented with yeast, which was not what I was expecting at all, and I'm rather disappointed with the end product. Is there anything I can do to thicken the next beer I make (a "Mexican Cerveza" ((lmao)) to the point of drinkability? Anything I can add to customize it?
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Mar 19, 2013 06:12
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Darth Windu posted:Has anyone ever tried Mr. Beer? http://www.mrbeer.com The actual Mr. Beer kits are pretty much crap, but all you have to do is not use their ingredient kits and buy your own. Use the fermenter and equipment that came with the kit, but make extract batches with unhopped malt extract, real hops and name brand yeast from a homebrew store.
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Mar 19, 2013 10:14
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Darth Windu posted:Has anyone ever tried Mr. Beer? http://www.mrbeer.com Since it's an extract kit, your best bet is to make sure you get all the good out of your steeping grains you can by squeezing the bag. That is what really instills most of the hearty flavor (your malt extracts add flavor too, but are mostly a source of sugars for the yeast). If you are interested in doing a real, all grain beer where you control the variables, I'd recommend using a brew-in-bag setup. Minimal upfront costs and it is much cheaper than extract brewing in the long run. Since you already seem to have your cerveza kit, you can add whatever you want to your boil to add flavor. Some guys in my local brew club love jalapeño beers, that might fit the Mexican inspired theme you have there... Just Google jalapeño beer recipes and don't be afraid to play around with it.
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Mar 19, 2013 10:22
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