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At this point shouldnt they just make all sprues undergated like that? Im sure metal finishes arent a spontaneous decision
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Nov 22, 2013 11:15
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Bimmi posted:They have never, to my knowledge, reworked existing molds to have undergated sprues. Strike Freedom FB got a new mold for the plated parts, but that's one runner vs. a dozen or more. Anything that incorporates undergates into the whole kit was designed that way from the start. You mean like the one-off that I literally just posted? The MG Hyper Mode G Gundam kits did not have undergates in their original forms, but they did in their one-off special kits. It would not be the first time they made a unique mold for special armor based on a previous mold.
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Nov 22, 2013 11:16
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BizarroAzrael posted:Do you think an MG Reborns is realistic? The transformation gimmick might be tricky to work with a full frame. I think a Reborns frame would only need reversible knees and arms. Kyrios/Arios/Harute also have really simple transformations that don't even need weird frame engineering, I think the only real change you'd need to make from the frame the other 00 gundams use would be something to lock the legs in place. I mean the downside is that if you flip them over, they look very silly, but still. 
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Nov 22, 2013 12:20
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S-Alpha posted:You mean like the one-off that I literally just posted? You're aggressively missing the point. And Master Gundam had undergates from the initial release whereas the G has never had them. The Fenex sample has quite visible sprue scars anyway, so there you go. Fauxtool posted:At this point shouldnt they just make all sprues undergated like that? Im sure metal finishes arent a spontaneous decision One would assume it's a cost issue, and sometimes you'll see parts where the gates are arranged in a way that precludes the use of undergates (coincidentally enough, the MG Unicorn has a bunch of these). Whatever the reason, it's not like it's new technology anymore, but they seem to keep it to kits that are/definitely will at some point be plated. Personally I kind of hate dealing with them and wouldn't be thrilled if every kit had them whether they were needed or not. Bimmi fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Nov 22, 2013 |
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Nov 22, 2013 15:38
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S-Alpha posted:The MG Hyper Mode G Gundam kits did not have undergates in their original forms, but they did in their one-off special kits. It would not be the first time they made a unique mold for special armor based on a previous mold. Ignoring the fact you're expecting Bandai to put effort into a design that was pretty much conceived as a cheap way to reuse the Unicorn mold one more time, let's look at some pictures.  These are the runners for MG God. Notice they're all pretty small and there isn't much parts separation. Remaking the runners to let it look good is affordable and not all that hard anyways.  These are the runners for the Unicorn, and Phenex would have an extra 2-3 for the Armed Armors on the back. There is a poo poo ton more to adjust here, and considering this is almost guaranteed to be a web exclusive it would be incredibly silly of Bandai to devote time and resources to doing that. More than that, there have been quite a few one-off titanium finish/ignition mode/TRANS-AM/whatever kits, and the vast majority of them have been lazy "just coat the runners". Even the Destiny Extreme Blast, an actual general release kit, could not be bothered to adjust the runners, again likely because it just wouldn't be cost effective.
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Nov 22, 2013 16:56
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I'm not even sure it's possible to retrofit a mold with undergates – that would basically entail grafting hundreds of tiny metal bits onto the existing molds to eliminate all side gates, which seems like it could play hell with mold integrity and parts fit if anything goes wrong. I can only think of one example of Bandai permanently changing an existing mold, and that was just for some added raised detail on the underside of the part. Not at all comparable to adding metal and loving around with mating surfaces.
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Nov 22, 2013 17:12
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They'd have to basically remake the molds at that point, so it's only really possible if it's just one or two runners a la Strike Freedom Full Burst. Which was as cost-cutting as it gets since they only remade the runners for the exposed gold plastic, not the inner frame. Also I went back to check on the MG God's Hyper Mode since I was actually pretty surprised to hear Bandai re-engineered it,  and what are you talking about S-Alpha, no they didn't. There are nubs all over this thing. Master Gundam looks a bit better, but like Bimmi said it already had undergated runners. Probably because Bandai knew they'd be making a Hyper Mode version. EDIT: Oh hey, that one "nub" on the front of the left foot's... ankle flap thing is just a glint of light. Derp. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Nov 22, 2013 |
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Nov 22, 2013 17:22
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When I went digging through Dalong's archives looking for stuff on that, the only image I could find that detailed the God's Hyper Mode looked like it had undergating. And I couldn't find anything on the Master having undergates. Well that's a load of bullshit right there, it looks like rear end otherwise. I'd hope they'd go through the effort, because it looks like the worst poo poo otherwise since there's massive black spots everywhere. But I guess that's too much to ask. Why can't they just release some nice alternate color frames and stuff so that I don't have to buy this to make the Banshee not look awful. drat you Bandai. 
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Nov 22, 2013 17:34
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  Master actually did have some undergating, it's just Bandai hadn't fully nailed the concept down back then. Since you're getting MG Phenex irregardless, you'd probably be more interested to know that it is possible to hide the nub marks on metallic finish kits. It's not a perfect fix (unless you somehow get the exact shade of clear paint Bandai used originally), but carefully trimming the nubs with a knife + candy coating them an appropriate shade looks miles better than plain denubbing. A gloss coat on top will help too. Though if you're just getting it just for the clear frame, you're better off just straight up candy coating the Banshee's frame. It'll look better anyways, since the Unicorn kits don't have silver underneath the clear parts to make the colors pop.
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Nov 22, 2013 17:40
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I just think that gold/yellow and black/blue look better than gold/blue and black/yellow. And given my personal inability to paint competently (three tests with an HG 1/144 Flag and zero turned out even passable), I feel more comfortable with first/third party products/accessories. More and more do I regret not going through with that purchase of the web exclusive Banshee. It had a proper golden horn, a better frame color, as well as a shield/rifle. Maybe someday they'll do a rerelease of it. 
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Nov 22, 2013 17:56
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Hardware and auto supply stores sell "chrome" gold spray paint that looks very similar to the matte gold of the old Wing HGs and Zeta HD Shiki. I personally think it looks a lot nicer than the shiny stuff.
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Nov 22, 2013 18:17
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Fauxtool posted:A lot of the charts and intended usage guides are misleading or intentionally obtuse. The bodies are all pretty much the same. The triggers, nozzles and needles are different. I took parts from a $500 iwata and put them in a $100 body and it worked perfectly. So wait, Iwata bodies and internals are cross-compatible across their entire product catalog? 
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Nov 22, 2013 18:26
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Pretty much everything about air brushing is modular, yeah. Nothing stopping you from using a $600 airbrush with a $10 nylon hose and a $20 tire or something. If you're on a budget, it's actually kind of recommended you just get one quality item and cheap knockoffs of the rest of the equipment. They'll probably work long enough for you to get the cash to switch to something better.
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Nov 22, 2013 18:49
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TasogareNoKagi posted:So wait, Iwata bodies and internals are cross-compatible across their entire product catalog? Not exactly, the internals from one line are compatible with the internals of that same line. I took the cheapest HP body and put the "very fine" internals in it. I wouldn't count on revolution parts fitting in eclipse parts
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Nov 22, 2013 21:36
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I always forget about nubs on metallic coated models  I would try and touch it up with paint but I can never find a way to get the paint as shiny as the metallic coating. Gloss coat, nada. Glossy gold paint of various brands, nope.
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Nov 22, 2013 23:00
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Did you put down a coat of silver first? How Extra Finish Kits Are Made: 1. The runners are initially molded in a color best described as "whatever we have too much of". This is the reason for the discolored nubs. 2. A coat of silver is sprayed over the runners to mask the original color and to 3. make the coat of clear color sprayed next shinier. It's a well-known painting technique called candy coating. The issue most people run into when trying to fix the nubs is that Bandai doesn't tell anyone the exact paints they use in steps 2 and 3. Even if you check the manual's color guide, it'll only mention the shades used in the original kit. You pretty much have to shoot for "close enough" in any attempt to polish up a metallic finish kit, or else you'll probably drive yourself crazy mixing paint.
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Nov 22, 2013 23:08
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No I didn't, and I'm an idiot for not having thought of candy coating it before, thanks. 
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Nov 22, 2013 23:26
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Bandai exclusively references Gunze Sangyo paints in their kits, so GS clear and pearlescent colors might be worth looking into for special coating touchups.
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Nov 22, 2013 23:38
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It's really annoying to check out the color charts included with kits to see how they got a certain color, then look it up and not get any hits because the english name is wine red instead of マルーン
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Nov 23, 2013 01:13
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Do yourself a favor and just use this handy guide.
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Nov 23, 2013 01:16
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Yeah it works out fine for me since I can read katakana, and since they're numbered anyway, kanji doesn't give me a hard time. I just don't understand why they can't have the same name in both languages!!!
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Nov 23, 2013 01:47
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One of the first things you learn when you start studying Japan's use of loan words is that they are really bad at English. Foreign languages in general actually, but point is that katakana is batshit. See: "mafuura" meaning scarf and "sukafu" meaning cravat.
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Nov 23, 2013 02:26
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BlitzBlast posted:Do yourself a favor and just use this handy guide. Where has this link been all my life?
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Nov 23, 2013 03:07
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are there any sprue previews for the special coating Nu gundam yet? My brother just told me he wants one for christmas but i said to wait and see if it was any good.
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Nov 23, 2013 03:12
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Bimmi posted:They have never, to my knowledge, reworked existing molds to have undergated sprues. Strike Freedom FB got a new mold for the plated parts, but that's one runner vs. a dozen or more. Anything that incorporates undergates into the whole kit was designed that way from the start. I built the SF Extra Finish last year and this is true. The metallic parts were undergated but the exterior armor wasn't and consequently the pearlescent finish had a bunch of sprue marks all over it. Don't pay more a special finish kit. Ever. If you're getting it for the same price as the normal one and plan on painting it, go nuts, but it will look worse than the regular version if unpainted.
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Nov 23, 2013 08:07
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 Clear blue parts confirmed.
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Nov 23, 2013 18:01
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Can't say I'm thrilled with that choice. Still, lookin' sharp.
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Nov 23, 2013 18:32
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Still don't really get why they couldn't have just made it chromed silver like the 1/100. Oh well, as long as the surface detail is there I can do it myself.
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Nov 23, 2013 18:39
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BlitzBlast posted:Still don't really get why they couldn't have just made it chromed silver like the 1/100. Oh well, as long as the surface detail is there I can do it myself. Cost. If you ever wonder why a business does something, it's cost. It is the objective of business to give the customer the least possible value for their money and they do this by cutting cost.
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Nov 23, 2013 18:52
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Except electroplating plastic isn't much more expensive than molding a clear part? Either way they have to make a separate mold for the solar panels, so any sort of cost-efficiency argument goes right out the window. Bandai usually doesn't skimp out on a MG's main gimmick anyways, so this is presumably just a design decision.
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Nov 23, 2013 19:13
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I guess it's meant to echo the blue plating of the old 1/100, which I always thought looked kind of tacky, but it's nothing that can't be fixed (unless they did the evil thing and put the detail on the inside)
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Nov 23, 2013 19:39
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What do y'all use for lacquer thinner? And how do I determine what psi I should spray something at?
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Nov 23, 2013 21:58
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If you're using a particular brand of paint, just use the corresponding thinner. Technically you can mix and match (since in the end they're all variants of the same thing), but you'll run into the least issues this way. Also generally you don't want to spray higher than 20 PSI, since too much airflow can cause the paint to dry early, clogging the brush. Also because you want a nice spray, not a jet of paint. If your paint is thinned properly there shouldn't be any threat of it drying in midair either.
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Nov 23, 2013 22:58
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Thanks. I'm putting together a cheap snapfit airplane kit to practice seam filling and airbrushing on, and man, after working with bandai poo poo for so long, it's really hilarious how bad this thing is.
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Nov 23, 2013 23:40
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When you're spraying lacquers, make sure you have really good ventilation and a good mask, because that poo poo is just terrible for your lungs.
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Nov 23, 2013 23:43
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Not just that, it is a known carcinogen and can cause damage to the brain and other organs if inhaled. It's nasty, nasty stuff. And it has to be an air mask that accepts organic vapor filters too; some random old dust mask lying around ain't gonna cut it. I'd go so far as to recommend full eye protection and gloves, too. You can't be too careful with this poo poo, it really is that bad.
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Nov 24, 2013 00:20
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Definitely will be doing that. How much sanding is necessary after priming? Everyone seems to have their own opinions. Is it only necessary if you've got imperfections or the primer doesn't go on evenly? e: and what's the best way to keep lacquer based paints from eating through ABS? muike fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 00:53
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Uh, you prime after sanding. Primers for model kits are not thick enough to withstand abrasion, unless we're talking really fine (1k+). Here's the full flowchart: 1. Remove from runner. 2. Denub. 3. Make any modifications you want. 4. Wash. (optional if you prime, but hey it makes the colors more vibrant IMO) 5. Prime. 6. Paint. 7. Gloss coat. 8. Panel lines. 9. Decals. 10. Top coat. quote:and what's the best way to keep lacquer based paints from eating through ABS? That's what your primer is for. BlitzBlast fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Nov 24, 2013 |
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Nov 24, 2013 00:58
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Well the primers I have are lacquer based, so I figured I'd check. I can try picking up some of the urethane ones too. I definitely, in my searches trying to figure out some of the weirder Mr Hobby products, did read people talking about sanding after priming which seemed odd to me. I looked up some images from those people and they were working with pretty roughly molded kits though. e: and you recommend doing panel lines and decals on the same layer? cool.
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Nov 24, 2013 01:01
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If you're using laquer primers too, you'll have to "mist" it; just put on a very tiny amount for the first coat so the solvent evaporates before it can affect the plastic. Once you have that down you can be a bit more reckless. I know car models have people sand after priming to get a smooth finish, but that's to be expected. You sand all the layers on those things. You can put another coat between the panel line and the decals if you want, but it's unnecessary. It's just important to do panel lines first in case any of your decals go over a panel line. Because let me tell you, nothing like having to scrape off a waterslide because you didn't notice there was a panel line underneath it. 
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Nov 24, 2013 01:08
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