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injate
Jan 29, 2006

I'm really bad at trying to act high and mighty, let alone be high and mighty.

j4cbo posted:

That's definitely hotter than it should be at idle... what speed are you running the fan at?

I'd take of the heatsink and check how well the goop has distributed itself over the heatspreader.
Speed fan says 2800 RPMs (100%). I got the temp backwards btw, 89 in room not 98. Case temp is 32..maybe it's a little cooler in here than what I read, case temp should be higher than the outside room.

I didn't plug in that speed dial plug which comes with the ZALMAN because I have too many wires in there as is and the the length of it is just outrageous (ment to be wired outside the case?...I'll pass). I assumed it would go full speed without it.

vv Ok I guess I'll tear it apart again. Hopefully the goo isn't crusty yet and I
can just wipe it off. Thanks

Update: Jumped to conclusions too early, made a new reply with update/question about fans.

injate fucked around with this message at Aug 4, 2006 around 06:16

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j4cbo
Nov 1, 2004
huh?

Definitely bad paste then. The Zalman at full speed should do way better than that. Make sure it's nice and thin; you might want to wiggle the heatsink over a large area (to spread the paste over the whole heatspreader) before clamping it down.

Bleusilences
Jun 23, 2004

Be careful for what you wish for.


I want to buy an Amd 64x2 4400+ should I go with am2 or 939. IMO the AM2 doesnt seem too hot and required a amd 64-fx to see a real difference and I don't have the money for ddr2 800 mhz

Source tom's hardware: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05...invents_itself/

Bleusilences fucked around with this message at Aug 4, 2006 around 03:05

Flea110
Apr 3, 2006


Does anyone have any experience with hard drive silencing/suspending/sandwiching? How well does it actually work?

I read a couple articles on silentpcrevew.com, and I'm thinking of getting two aluminum plates on the top and bottom, then putting crap into the sides to block sound. Any advice?

retsboLdeR
Jun 20, 2002

Supplies ARE limited. Once they're gone they ARE gone.

I'm trying to figure out if I can upgrade the CPU on my Satallite A105-S2131. Currently it has a 1.4 Celeron M in it, which is 533fsb and 478pin. I guess my question is: Can I replace it with a Centrino M of the same bus speed and Pin size? I figure I could call toshiba as a last resort, but I have a strong feeling that they are just going to lie to me about what I can replace the processor with.

I was looking at the Pentium 750(1.86ghz), 760(2.0ghz), 770(2.13ghz). Would any of those work? Should I even bother undergoing this endever?

retsboLdeR fucked around with this message at Aug 4, 2006 around 04:09

injate
Jan 29, 2006

I'm really bad at trying to act high and mighty, let alone be high and mighty.

Bleusilences posted:

I want to buy an Amd 64x2 4400+ should I go with am2 or 939. IMO the AM2 doesnt seem too hot and required a amd 64-fx to see a real difference and I don't have the money for ddr2 800 mhz

Source tom's hardware: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/05...invents_itself/
Then you should go with the reduced price 939 X2s. I got my 4200+ for $188 but it's supposed to be $175, maybe it will be in a few weeks. I didn't feel like waiting to save 13 bucks. You can use your 184 pin ram from your old system if you go 939, it's plenty fast for me. AM2 is bleeding edge, the DDR2 will carry over to the next gen sockets but it is price gouged right now since it's still fairly new.

Anyway about my computer temps, My room has cooled down alot (30C) and my CPU temp with the side of the case off is now 44/45. Also I realized the 50C before was actually a 50% CPU temp (F@H Protein folding on one core). I've disabled that on startup for the time being...maybe forever. OCing should take enough life off of this CPU.

I need to replace my stock 120mm exhaust fan and get an intake on my Sonata II. I did some quick searching and found these really quiet thermaltakes with a solid air movement rating to probably be the best performance for a low noise fan. What is the consensus on thermaltake fans? I'm pretty much settled on this one, I just want to see if anyone has a better suggestions or a really good reason not to get a pair of these.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16811999151
RPM 2000+-10% RPM
Air Flow 78CFM
Noise Level 21dBA
$8.99

Hopefully with the fans I'll maintain low 40s, maybe even high 30s when it's cool. Are those temps. ideal enough bases to overclock with?

Oh yeah, and to anyone out there with experience cooling Sonata IIs, Does the CPU duct really help? It still fits in with my zalman (pretty drat well). I'll just have to experiment my self if no one knows...it's just such a pain to put in/take out, even after you learn the trick to it.

injate fucked around with this message at Aug 4, 2006 around 06:48

chizad
Jul 9, 2001

'Cus we find ourselves in the same old mess
Singin' drunken lullabies

retsboLdeR posted:

I'm trying to figure out if I can upgrade the CPU on my Satallite A105-S2131. Currently it has a 1.4 Celeron M in it, which is 533fsb and 478pin. I guess my question is: Can I replace it with a Centrino M of the same bus speed and Pin size? I figure I could call toshiba as a last resort, but I have a strong feeling that they are just going to lie to me about what I can replace the processor with.

I was looking at the Pentium 750(1.86ghz), 760(2.0ghz), 770(2.13ghz). Would any of those work? Should I even bother undergoing this endever?

According to the instructions here, it should be possible to pull the old CPU and replace it with a new one. As far as upgrade options go, you'd have to find out what chipset that motherboard has on it (Toshiba's site should have that info...somewhere) and figure out from there what the fastest CPU you could use would be.

TopGun
Mar 13, 2004
I'm cool like that

So here's a quick question.

I was having a problem with my computer, and called the mobo manufacturer for some help. We determined that my CPU fan is probably not the greatest, so I'm going to replace it.

She suggested I purchased a fan that has four pins instead of three (the CPU connector on the mobo has four pins, but I thought it was fine to just use the three pin connector).

So anyway, what is the difference between a fan with 3 pins and a fan with 4 pins on the connector? And does it really make a difference?

Thanks!

Zorilla
Mar 23, 2005

GOING APE SPIT

TopGun posted:

So here's a quick question.

I was having a problem with my computer, and called the mobo manufacturer for some help. We determined that my CPU fan is probably not the greatest, so I'm going to replace it.

She suggested I purchased a fan that has four pins instead of three (the CPU connector on the mobo has four pins, but I thought it was fine to just use the three pin connector).

So anyway, what is the difference between a fan with 3 pins and a fan with 4 pins on the connector? And does it really make a difference?

Thanks!

Did they make any discintion between the full-sized 4-pin power connector and something smaller? I would've preferred whatever lets you plug it straight into the motherboard for the sake of clean cabling and possibility of dynamic fan control if you motherboard has it. Usually, that's a 3-pin, but it could be different.

vvv There you have it. Even my fairly new A8N5X seems to only have 3-pin connectors, but check your board to see if you can go with a 4-pin one.

Zorilla fucked around with this message at Aug 25, 2006 around 01:55

Necare
Sep 13, 2003


Newer motherboards sometimes have a 4 pin connector for the CPU fan on the motherboard. This 4th signal is a fan speed control to the fan from the motherboard. It is supposed to be better for the fan itself than the old way of PWMing the supply voltage.

swalk
Nov 20, 2004
bucka blaow

I have an old P3 computer with a ATI Rage 128/Xpert 2000 Pro video card running Windows XP. I recently bought a Samsung 940BW LCD monitor which has a native resolution of 1440x900.

The ATI website says it does "32-bit true color 3D graphics up to 1920x1200".

Using the default Windows drivers for it, the max resolution I could get was 1280x1024. So I cleaned those drivers and downloaded the newest ones from the ATI website, and I got the exact same resolution options.

Next I installed the monitor drivers and uninstalled the video drivers. When I rebooted it detects the monitor and video card, and the strange thing was, it let me pick 1600x1200 as a resolution. But not the 1440x900 I need.

Then I tried to manually set the resolution to 1440x900 in the registry and rebooted. After that the max was only 1152x864.

Can this video card just not do that resolution? And what's the cheapest/oldest video card that could handle it?

Thanks!

Zorilla
Mar 23, 2005

GOING APE SPIT

swalk posted:

....

Can this video card just not do that resolution? And what's the cheapest/oldest video card that could handle it?

Thanks!

If you don't end up working through this, pretty much anything on the market now should be able to handle it. FX 5200s are down to $25-30 now.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004


I'm looking for a nice watercooling setup for my E6600 to go in my P180. I plan to only have my cpu cooled and get a quieter fan for my graphics card. I'm in this mainly for noise reduction. I have the 3 120mm fans all set on low and I can still hear it in the next room over. Recommendations?

Zorilla
Mar 23, 2005

GOING APE SPIT

two_beer_bishes posted:

I'm looking for a nice watercooling setup for my E6600 to go in my P180. I plan to only have my cpu cooled and get a quieter fan for my graphics card. I'm in this mainly for noise reduction. I have the 3 120mm fans all set on low and I can still hear it in the next room over. Recommendations?

Weird. I have a P180 and the house can get pretty drat quiet. I can still barely hear the case fans when I'm in the room, much less outside. If it weren't for the fan noise issue, I would just recommend the Scythe Ninja cooler, as it wouldn't add any more fans to the system. It fits the P180 like a glove.

I'm not sure how hell the E6600 does fanless compared to my Venice 3200+, which works very well that way. I guess you could move one of the case fans and clip it to the heatsink for more direct airflow with no added noise.

Sorry I don't have a more direct answer to your question, as I don't know much about watercooling (other than it's really expensive) and there are likely solutions to the noise that can keep you from resorting to it.

Zorilla fucked around with this message at Aug 27, 2006 around 23:43

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004


Zorilla posted:

Weird. I have a P180 and the house can get pretty drat quiet. I can still barely hear the case fans when I'm in the room, much less outside. If it weren't for the fan noise issue, I would just recommend the Scythe Ninja cooler, as it wouldn't add any more fans to the system. It fits the P180 like a glove.

I'm not sure how hell the E6600 does fanless compared to my Venice 3200+, which works very well that way. I guess you could move one of the case fans and clip it to the heatsink for more direct airflow.

I'm a putz and neglected to mention that most of the noise is coming from my loud CPU fan and not the big ones that came with the case. I guess I could just spend a few bucks on a quieter fan instead of a $200 accident waiting to happen

Zorilla
Mar 23, 2005

GOING APE SPIT

two_beer_bishes posted:

I'm a putz and neglected to mention that most of the noise is coming from my loud CPU fan and not the big ones that came with the case. I guess I could just spend a few bucks on a quieter fan instead of a $200 accident waiting to happen

In that case, I would definitely recommend that cooler I mentioned:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16835185001

Out of stock now, but there are plenty of places that sell it. I think I bought mine cheaper because it didn't come with a fan, though.

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004


Zorilla posted:

In that case, I would definitely recommend that cooler I mentioned:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...N82E16835185001

Out of stock now, but there are plenty of places that sell it. I think I bought mine cheaper because it didn't come with a fan, though.

Cool, thanks. I'll be ordering from them in the next week or so, hopefully it'll be in stock.

mcnealys baby
Nov 3, 2002

ohhh here we go


Is it necessarily bad that SpeedFan says my +12V feed is at 12.22? The rest are all spot-on the right voltage. I have a Asus A8N5X if it matters, with a Athlon64 3200+.

Frisbee
Nov 21, 2005


Okay, this might be a stupid question. I have a decent PC and a crappy laptop. Is there any way to use the laptops screen and keyboard to play the PC? I know that you can buy a cord that will let you forward your PC's monitor to a TV, would it work for forwarding a monitor to a laptop's screen? I don't know what to do about the keyboard though

Is this a really unfeasable idea or is there an easy way to pull it off?

two_beer_bishes
Jun 27, 2004


Frisbee posted:

Okay, this might be a stupid question. I have a decent PC and a crappy laptop. Is there any way to use the laptops screen and keyboard to play the PC? I know that you can buy a cord that will let you forward your PC's monitor to a TV, would it work for forwarding a monitor to a laptop's screen? I don't know what to do about the keyboard though

Is this a really unfeasable idea or is there an easy way to pull it off?

You want to control your PC through your laptop?

I used to do this with a program called RealVNC http://www.realvnc.com/

Frisbee
Nov 21, 2005


two_beer_bishes posted:

You want to control your PC through your laptop?

I used to do this with a program called RealVNC http://www.realvnc.com/

Well, not quite that. The problem is that the laptop sucks really. What I want to do is use the laptop's screen and keyboard and the PC's RAM and video card and all whatnot. I basically want to use my PC laying down in bed. Is that possible?

CHEESE-kun
May 20, 2004

by Peatpot


Frisbee posted:

Well, not quite that. The problem is that the laptop sucks really. What I want to do is use the laptop's screen and keyboard and the PC's RAM and video card and all whatnot. I basically want to use my PC laying down in bed. Is that possible?

Nope. The closest thing is VNC or Remote desktop, and that won't do games. Getting a laptop screen to work with a normal pc is a no-go.

chizad
Jul 9, 2001

'Cus we find ourselves in the same old mess
Singin' drunken lullabies

Anatole posted:

Is it necessarily bad that SpeedFan says my +12V feed is at 12.22? The rest are all spot-on the right voltage. I have a Asus A8N5X if it matters, with a Athlon64 3200+.

Even with good Antec/Sparkle/Fortron/etc PSUs I don't think I've every seen a system that has spot-on voltages across the board. There's always some variance. According to the silentpcreview.com FAQs variances of ~5% +/- are acceptable. You're at +1.8% right now, so I wouldn't be concerned.

SEC
Nov 14, 2005


The other day I was browsing the internet when an ad for "popcorn.net" popped up (no pun intended). I've never heard or have ever been to this website and it tells me my 3 day trial is up and now I have to pay, but the stupid thing doesn't give me a "No thanks" offer. It just offers to close the window.. but it pops up about every hour.
My AVG identified it as a "Trojan horse generic.xdr" but wouldn't let me heal it. So I looked at the pathname and tried to find it, but I couldn't, so I did a search and that didn't turn up anything either.
Is there anything anyone can suggest on how to get rid of it manually rather then taking it in to be serviced?

Zorilla
Mar 23, 2005

GOING APE SPIT

SEC posted:

The other day I was browsing the internet when an ad for "popcorn.net" popped up (no pun intended). I've never heard or have ever been to this website and it tells me my 3 day trial is up and now I have to pay, but the stupid thing doesn't give me a "No thanks" offer. It just offers to close the window.. but it pops up about every hour.
My AVG identified it as a "Trojan horse generic.xdr" but wouldn't let me heal it. So I looked at the pathname and tried to find it, but I couldn't, so I did a search and that didn't turn up anything either.
Is there anything anyone can suggest on how to get rid of it manually rather then taking it in to be serviced?

Stupid question: have you enabled the viewing of hidden files in Windows Explorer?

Alfajor
Jun 10, 2005

The delicious snack cake.

A buddy wants to sell me a viewsonic vx922 LCD for around $200, and I'm highly interested, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to use it at its recommended resolution (1280x1024). I now have a 17" CRT at 1024x768, and everything is quite nice, but I haven't really tested at other resolutions.
I'm wondering if the LCD would still be nice at 1024x768, just in case I can't quite handle the higher resolution.

Geology
Nov 6, 2005



When I take my laptop somewhere where it can't be plugged in, I always turn the brightness on the screen all the way down in hopes to prolong the battery life. However, if I'm outdoors or in a well-lit room, I have to turn the brightness up to see it and I feel guilty and worried that my battery will run out quickly.

The question is: does the monitor brightness really consume as much as I think it does, or can I leave it on full blast without worrying?

DuckConference
May 27, 2004



Alfajor posted:

A buddy wants to sell me a viewsonic vx922 LCD for around $200, and I'm highly interested, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to use it at its recommended resolution (1280x1024). I now have a 17" CRT at 1024x768, and everything is quite nice, but I haven't really tested at other resolutions.
I'm wondering if the LCD would still be nice at 1024x768, just in case I can't quite handle the higher resolution.

It depends on how well the display scales, but since 1280x1024 and 1024x768 have a different aspect ratio, it's likely to be rather blurry. You'll probably be better off running at the native resolution with a higher DPI setting.

Ravarek
Apr 24, 2004

Solid gold dipes:
E'ry day I'm hustlin'.


Can wireless mice ( 2.4 Ghz ) negatively affect the performance of other wireless hardware, particularly routers? Or vice versa? I've heard stories of 2.4 Ghz cordless phones screwing up wireless routers, so I am curious if a cordless mouse could do the same.

Drogadon
Jun 26, 2003

Il fenomeno vero, per sempre capitano bianconero.

I have a Radeon 9600 and two identical Acer LCDs, the radeon has VGA + DVI-I, my LCDs are VGA-only.

The problem is that the one connected to the DVI port through an adapter looks bad, like if you turned the contrast all the way up or something (and no amount of tinkering with the contrast/color settings has helped), and it's not the LCD because I switched them and the crappy image is still on the one connected to DVI. Is this normal? I used to have two different CRTs so that's probably why I didnt notice before.

KaLogain
Dec 29, 2004

I got her number. How do you like them apples?


I'm looking for a recommendation on a router and cable modem/dsl modem.

I've had the Linksys WRT54G suggested to me, which I agree with, but i was wondering if there was any real benefit to the speed boost version of the router, if I don't have a speed boost wireless card for my computer. Is there anything else I should know about these routers? I will of course take all the security measures necessary.

I'm also thinking of getting a Linksys cable modem if I get cable Internet for my apartment. I of course would make sure its compatible for the ISP. I haven't seen any DSL modems you can buy yourself so I am assuming that you have to get the modem from the provider. Is there anything else I should know or another modem I should get if I get cable Internet?

BabyJesus
Nov 13, 2002


The SpeedBoost gimmick won't do anythin to boost performance if you aren't using exclusive "SpeedBoost" devices in your network.

I'd also recommend a Linksys Cable modem. It should be compatible with your ISP, considering most of them only require a DOCSIS2.0 compliance.

If you are only using the router to share the internet, the WRT54G is a perfect solution.

BabyJesus
Nov 13, 2002


Drogadon posted:

I have a Radeon 9600 and two identical Acer LCDs, the radeon has VGA + DVI-I, my LCDs are VGA-only.

The problem is that the one connected to the DVI port through an adapter looks bad, like if you turned the contrast all the way up or something (and no amount of tinkering with the contrast/color settings has helped), and it's not the LCD because I switched them and the crappy image is still on the one connected to DVI. Is this normal? I used to have two different CRTs so that's probably why I didnt notice before.

Do you have another DVI->VGA adapter to test? If not it may just be the port on your video card. Also see if you can tinker around with any settings in ATI control panel to make any adjustments to the DVI connected VGA LCD.

BabyJesus
Nov 13, 2002


the godzilla of pudding posted:

When I take my laptop somewhere where it can't be plugged in, I always turn the brightness on the screen all the way down in hopes to prolong the battery life. However, if I'm outdoors or in a well-lit room, I have to turn the brightness up to see it and I feel guilty and worried that my battery will run out quickly.

The question is: does the monitor brightness really consume as much as I think it does, or can I leave it on full blast without worrying?


Yes, the backlight in the LCD monitor consumes quite a bit of power. Turning down the brightness is an effective way to prolong battery life. Some manufacturers also have "horsepower" throttling services that can run to slow down the PC and use less juice when unplugged.

Hollis Brown
Oct 17, 2004

It's like people only do things because they get paid, and that's just really sad


Does having SATA drives act as IDE cause performance loss? I am trying to find a way to explain some strange hdd activity (pretty slow when trying to perform parity repairs on files, when my old computer with a sata drive does it 4-5 times as fast)

Also: if it does, I did IDE emulation to install windows and have since installed sata drivers, would windows be able to find everything ok if I turned it off?
thanks it advance

edit: the speed difference was measured while repairing the same files

edit: thank you Zorilla for answering my question

Hollis Brown fucked around with this message at Sep 8, 2006 around 04:32

Zorilla
Mar 23, 2005

GOING APE SPIT

Hollis Brown posted:

Does having SATA drives act as IDE cause performance loss? I am trying to find a way to explain some strange hdd activity (pretty slow when trying to perform parity repairs on files, when my old computer with a sata drive does it 4-5 times as fast)

Also: if it does, I did IDE emulation to install windows and have since installed sata drivers, would windows be able to find everything ok if I turned it off?
thanks it advance

edit: the speed difference was measured while repairing the same files

The theoretical limit of both buses should be far above each drive's capability, but I'm sure the emulation routine could be hurting performance. You've installed the SATA controller drivers; you'll be able to boot off of it in SATA mode.

Colt Cannon
Aug 11, 2000



Here is a dumbass question.

If the motherboard has something like "DDR2 Standard DDR2 800" listed in its specs, does that mean I have to buy DDR2 800?

Also if I buy the corsair value ram, and it isn't ddr2 800, will it make a huge difference?

treestump
Dec 20, 2004
what was David Coverdale to do?

peniscurve posted:

Here is a dumbass question.

If the motherboard has something like "DDR2 Standard DDR2 800" listed in its specs, does that mean I have to buy DDR2 800?

Also if I buy the corsair value ram, and it isn't ddr2 800, will it make a huge difference?

You will need DDR2 of some kind. That just means that the fastest ram it can take is DDR2 800. Anything higher will throttle back, anything lower will just be slower (though only marginally).

Colt Cannon
Aug 11, 2000



Does anyone know if the Asus M2N-E is really a horrible board, as the newegg reviews say, or is it ok to use?

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Xeen
Jul 28, 2003



No hands on experience, but looking at the reviews I get the sense that people are buying it as an overclocking board and getting upset when it's not meeting their expectations. If you're overclocking, you shouldn't be buying cheaper motherboards, so I don't have a ton of sympathy there.

However, there's also a higher than normal list of driver and DoA complaints. My bet is that the board is shooting for the niche of 'lots of features, low price' so it's not made with the highest quality of parts. If you get solid RAM sticks and don't push it, I would bet it works fine. But I don't think there's a lot of wiggle room between 'working' and 'pushed too far' in this case.

Personally, having built hundreds of computers, I cannot stress enough that people building computers consider that every-single-mother-loving-part works with the motherboard. It is the absolute last place you want to save some money on. Asus is a decent brand, but their cheaper lines tend to be a bit bitchy. Keep it in mind and go from there.

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