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Hey guys, is there a way to limit my maximum FPS driver-side with an Nvidia GTX760? I wanna just have a cap at 150 fps so load with games doesn't spiral out of control. I dislike vsync. Can't figure it out, though.
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Apr 9, 2014 05:15
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Xenaero posted:Hey guys, is there a way to limit my maximum FPS driver-side with an Nvidia GTX760? I wanna just have a cap at 150 fps so load with games doesn't spiral out of control. I dislike vsync. Can't figure it out, though. It can be done in MSI afterburner under Monitoring, however my version doesn't have it. I don't know why so I just frame rate via cfg files for games I want to apply them for
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Apr 9, 2014 07:41
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I wasn't sure where to put this and I'm a bit astounded, but I had an empty fan slot that points at the back of the motherboard in my antec 300. I had an old stock antec fan where the water cooler radiator is now and I tossed it in (actually, zip tied, because I couldn't find screws for it) It actually lowered my IBT temperatures by three degrees  . I stay around 77 degrees now (at 4.5 ghz, but higher than necessary vcore at the moment at 1.368v, 1.950 vrin, 1.20 cache) with two cores going up to 79 on the last two tests. About 30 minutes before with no fan it was around 79-80 degrees and popping up to 82-83 on two cores. The second test, right after the first one, gave the same results.For the record I'm still a little skeptical. I will be buying a real fan to put there because this antec one is seriously, seriously lovely. I might even spend real money on it (I've filled my slots with cheap kingwins for noise and $$ except for 1 140mm) Anyways, hard to imagine this at all but there it is. Not even breaking 80 degrees at 1.368 vcore Edit: Also I realized recently that my antec 300, which I thought was just an old rear end one from forever ago, is actually a 300 two, which has cable management among other updated features. So I guess I'll be joining the tidy crew afterall Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Apr 10, 2014 |
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Apr 10, 2014 03:52
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I've got a pretty simple question (or so I think) that has me stumped and I'm just too dumb to try and figure it out by piecing together what little bits of information that I've been able to find online. Basically, a buddy of mine has wants me to pick up the Diablo 3 expansion but my GPU (Quadro NVS 295) won't be able to support it according to the internet (Can U run it, the game specs, etc.). I'm able to run Starcraft 2 without a hiccup on low settings and pass the bare requirements for D3- which gives me a little hope of being able to running the expansion. So I want to know if I have any options for some simple upgrades in lieu of buying a new computer. All I care about is being able to run the game rather smoothly, even if I have to play on the lowest graphic settings - I'm totally fine with that. The problem is I have a really weak PSU and limited space for a new card in the desktop itself: -240 watt PSU -slim tower newegg link to PC Are there any low profile video cards that my power supply can handle out there that meet my needs? I'd appreciate it if anyone could let me know of any that exist, if I have to look into boosting my power supply before upgrading any new card, or if I'm just poo poo out of luck all together.
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Apr 15, 2014 22:21
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bon ape tit posted:I've got a pretty simple question (or so I think) that has me stumped and I'm just too dumb to try and figure it out by piecing together what little bits of information that I've been able to find online. It says it has a PCIe x16 slot... but you're going to have to actually measure the space you have I'm going to guess. GTX 640? (gonna have better luck in parts picker thread) Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Apr 15, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 22:29
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bon ape tit posted:The problem is I have a really weak PSU and limited space for a new card in the desktop itself: E: I did check and don't see any low profile nVidia cards better than GT 640 64-bit DDR3, which is slower than onboard. Alereon fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Apr 16, 2014 |
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Apr 15, 2014 22:48
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If it fits in your case a gtx 750 would be the top performing card you could stick in without upgrading anything else.
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Apr 16, 2014 03:54
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I have a two year old Acer Aspire laptop (relatively low-end but with a core i5 processor). A few months ago the wireless network adapter died, and now the hard disk is going. Okay, I could replace the drive, but is it worth it? i.e. are there other things that, based on the age/brand, are likely to stop working soon?
toe knee hand fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Apr 17, 2014 |
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Apr 17, 2014 22:08
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toe knee hand posted:I have a two year old Acer Aspire laptop (relatively low-end but with a core i5 processor). A few months ago the wireless network adapter died, and now the hard disk is going. Okay, I could replace it, but is it worth it? i.e. are there other things that, based on the age/brand, are likely to stop working soon? Worth it? Yes. There's no reason to expect everything else to go bad unless it is specifically damaged (or if its famously a piece of poo poo or something). You can always use the hard drive for something else if the laptop really does fall apart for some weird reason. Even if you just get a $6 enclosure and use it a USB external
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Apr 17, 2014 22:12
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Heyo, due to the fact that godlike Dark Souls II PC port is about to release in few days and I feel the desire for a good game controller which I do not possess yet I turn to you for advice before making the purchase. Right now I have been tipped towards xbox controllers, in particular the 360 and One series just because they are developed by Microsoft and should be better compatible with WindowsOS? So basically what I am asking here for is, recommendations based on your experience with PC game controllers. Thanks! 
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Apr 21, 2014 14:09
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110% the Xbox 360 controller. Every game assumes that is the one you have, it'll match with all of the user interface prompts and stuff. Plus it's darn comfortable and durable, no real reason not to. If you prefer the Playstation one, you can get one of them and emulate a 360 controller but it's not as effortlessly 'plug n play'. Get a wired 360 controller and don't look back. The wireless ones need a dongle and batteries and that's just annoying. There are no official drivers for the Xbox One controller yet, so if you prefer that one you're SOL for now.
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Apr 21, 2014 14:16
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seebikas posted:Heyo, due to the fact that godlike Dark Souls II PC port is about to release in few days and I feel the desire for a good game controller which I do not possess yet Pretty much every windows game designed to be played with a controller expects you to have a 360 controller, and is designed accordingly. The exception would be using an emulator to play old snes games or something, or indie platform games - anything that requires you to control your character with a D-pad rather than an analogue stick - the 360 controllers have terrible D-pads (and the razer ones are even worse). I have one of each - a 360 controller for the rare game that's intended to be played with a controller, and a Logitech controller (more playstation style) for 2d stuff.
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Apr 21, 2014 14:16
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DS I was only really playable with a Xbox360 controller without modding it like with x360ce. It's safe to assume no such mod will be coming out for DS II immediately, so it's easier to just get a 360 controller and not deal with weird drivers or input lag.
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Apr 21, 2014 15:59
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This might be a software question, but I'll start here. I tried playing a video file from my laptop to a television through HDMI. The TV produced no bass when playing the video with the default media player or VLC. When I plug the laptop into another TV, the video's sound is just fine. If I plug my tablet into the problem TV with a different HDMI cable in the same port, sounds have bass. Is this a software problem? Windows 8.1 x6, default windows media player & VLC, 6' HDMI cable Android tablet, default media player, 15' HDMI cable Short - Laptop works on one TV, but not another. Tablet works on both TVs
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Apr 21, 2014 18:59
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Sounds to me like the subwoofer channel is getting lost somehow. Maybe the 1st TV doesn't know how to mix 5.1 down to 2.0, the 2nd one does, and the tablet just sends 2.0 to begin with? I'm just theorizing here. I actually have no idea. I'd have a look through the sound output control panel when the HDMI cable is connected, and go wander through the Audio menu on the 1st TV...
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Apr 21, 2014 19:03
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Not really a hardware question, but I'm looking to migrate a family PC to a new, somewhat less crappy, build that recently became available to me. (AMD A4-3300 with a sluggish HDD to an AMD A8-5600K with an 128 GB Samsung 830.) I'll be installing Windows 7 on the new system again, because I don't see why I should let that license go to waste. What is the best way to transfer over user accounts? Is the Windows Easy Transfer thing really as good as it makes itself out to be? 
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Apr 22, 2014 16:28
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Geemer posted:Not really a hardware question, but I'm looking to migrate a family PC to a new, somewhat less crappy, build that recently became available to me. (AMD A4-3300 with a sluggish HDD to an AMD A8-5600K with an 128 GB Samsung 830.) WET is great, just run that and see if there are any niggling settings that need to get moved (Firefox profiles and poo poo like that won't get moved.)
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Apr 22, 2014 16:38
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The Lord Bude posted:Pretty much every windows game designed to be played with a controller expects you to have a 360 controller, and is designed accordingly. This is so true, that's it's almost puzzling that gaming PC bundles don't ship with a 360 controller by default.
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Apr 22, 2014 17:28
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Inspector_666 posted:WET is great, just run that and see if there are any niggling settings that need to get moved (Firefox profiles and poo poo like that won't get moved.) This is great to hear. I was worried I'd have to hunt down esoteric Outlook files and the like.
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Apr 22, 2014 17:41
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Geemer posted:This is great to hear. I was worried I'd have to hunt down esoteric Outlook files and the like. You may have to manually move certain PSTs and the signature files, Outlook moves are the one thing where sometimes it moves everything perfectly and sometimes it doesn't, and I can't really find any method to that madness.
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Apr 22, 2014 17:52
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Anyone have a decent guide on OCing my 2500k? Bought it two years ago and was told it was stupid easy to OC out of the box if I had a decent cooling setup (have a 212 evo). EDIT: \/\/ Didn't even realize we had one, thanks! Handsome Ralph fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 17:55
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Handsome Ralph posted:Anyone have a decent guide on OCing my 2500k? Try the overclocking thread.
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Apr 22, 2014 18:12
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I built my machine 2 years ago based on advice from you goons. It's developed a problem where it won't turn on most of the time - I thought it was the case (Fractal Design R3), since that was the only component that had given me any hassle (power LED light connections that attach to the motherboard broke early on in the system's life). Thinking it was the power button, I got a Fractal Design R4 and transplanted everything today. Problem remains. The only way I can get it to start most of the time right now is to turn the PSU on and off on the unit itself and pray to the electricity gods, but it usually takes upwards of a dozen flicks of the on/off switch. It's a Seasonic SS-560KM Modular. I'm guessing the only likely culprits are the PSU or the motherboard (Asus P8Z77-V LX)?
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Apr 22, 2014 21:55
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I don't suppose you tried running it outside of the case at all?
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Apr 22, 2014 21:56
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Inspector_666 posted:I don't suppose you tried running it outside of the case at all? Well I thought that changing cases would provide similar information, ie that it's not the case. I did a test build of the system when I initially got her going, which went fine. WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 21:57
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It's unethical, but you can buy a psu then return it if its not the culprit (you'll be giving someone a good open box deal :P). Past that I'd guess motherboard. Are you sure the pins for the power switch weren't damaged when the led plug broke? I'd check if there was a bios update. Although that is unlikely it is easy and free.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:04
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I don't think it's really unethical to buy something and end up returning it if you don't need it, unless you browbeat some mom & pop place into breaking their return policy or something.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:09
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WattsvilleBlues posted:Well I thought that changing cases would provide similar information, ie that it's not the case. I did a test build of the system when I initially got her going, which went fine. It's possible that something shifted or some dust or whatever got somewhere and is shorting it out. Seems unlikely, I know, but I've fixed similar issues simply by taking the whole thing apart, cleaning it, making sure the motherboard standoffs were all tight (back when the common ones were the spring-like ones you pushed in through square holes in the back of the mobo tray), etc. At least running it outside of the case will let you troubleshoot easier, i.e. you can disconnect things one by one without crouching over a case. edit: oh I see what you mean, you put it in a new case already. Derp. Well then... might be the PSU.
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Apr 22, 2014 22:12
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Ignoarints posted:It's unethical, but you can buy a psu then return it if its not the culprit (you'll be giving someone a good open box deal :P). Past that I'd guess motherboard. Are you sure the pins for the power switch weren't damaged when the led plug broke? It was the LED light cables that broke, and it's light up solidly in this new case. If it's the PSU, I thought I'd get problems with crashing or something. Even with my Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 under heavy load, it doesn't give me any problems. It seems contained to the power-on phase. Is there any software I can run to check the PSU for issues?
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Apr 22, 2014 22:28
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Inspector_666 posted:I don't think it's really unethical to buy something and end up returning it if you don't need it, unless you browbeat some mom & pop place into breaking their return policy or something. It's a gray area for me. It gets fuzzier when you know you might return it and so its possible you care a little less about price rather than local availability, and then you might end up returning it even if it did fix the issue. Then that goes into: well if the PSU didn't change anything I guess I can do the same thing for anything without a restocking fee. But, in this case, I'd just buy a PSU and see if it fixes it. I only say that because these were my exact same symptoms at first, however I don't know if it was because my PSU already damaged other components or not. Ignoarints fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Apr 22, 2014 |
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Apr 22, 2014 22:29
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Ignoarints posted:It's a gray area for me. It gets fuzzier when you know you might return it and so its possible you care a little less about price rather than local availability, and then you might end up returning it even if it did fix the issue. Then that goes into: well if the PSU didn't change anything I guess I can do the same thing for anything without a restocking fee. http://www.scan.co.uk/products/550w-xfx-pro-series-gold-80plus-rated-fully-modular-psu Would that suffice (and is it good quality?)? My current build is: Intel Core i5 3570K @ 3.4GHz Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Asus P8Z77-V LX 8GB RAM Samsung 840 EVO 250GB Samsung Spinpoint 1TB DVD writer Seasonic SS-560KM PSU I'll be adding a Western Digital 2TB Red drive in there soon enough Also, the R4 front fan cable isn't long enough to stretch to the motherboard, so I've got no intake fan. Where can I get an extension cable?
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Apr 23, 2014 00:39
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I'm loyal to Corsair personally for PSUs but I think everyone has their own preferences. Extension cable for a fan might be hard to find... You can easily get a molex extension cable, but never really seen one for a fan. I wouldn't order online if I were you since if this doesn't fix it you're going to want to return it and not pay S&H... It *could* be your mobo still ... edit: what do you know, they exist http://www.ebay.com/bhp/3-pin-fan-extension some for like a buck with 3 bucks shipping, from China. not too shabby. brick and mortar would probably charge 5 bucks straight up haha Pivo fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 00:49
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Re: fan extension cables - I've always had good experiences buying from FrozenCPU, who beats the eBay price and returns might be easier since you won't be dealing directly with the Chinese suppliers.
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Apr 23, 2014 01:22
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WattsvilleBlues posted:http://www.scan.co.uk/products/550w-xfx-pro-series-gold-80plus-rated-fully-modular-psu Yes definitely. It is returnable right? That is pretty important lol
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Apr 23, 2014 01:30
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Well I doubt he'll be returning the fan cable but that is a neat site. Seems like dude is from the UK though, what's their shipping like to the UK? The thing I like about random Chinese suppliers on eBay is that they charge practically pennies for shipping anywhere in the world. You wouldn't want to buy anything fancy from them, but for small stuff that you're not in any hurry to get... usually quite a bargain.
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Apr 23, 2014 01:32
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I meant the PSU, it was more of a testing suggestion
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Apr 23, 2014 01:38
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Pivo posted:Seems like dude is from the UK though, what's their shipping like to the UK? Ah...didn't catch that, yeah - he's probably better off buying from eBay.
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Apr 23, 2014 03:28
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It wouldn't help in this case since he's from the UK, but fan extension cables can be purchased from Jab-Tech (when they're done moving), Performance-PCs (they'll even do custom sleeving/fan cables on request), Sidewinder-PCs, and FrozenCPU. For the UK guy, try assembling it on a wood or otherwise nonconductive surface outside of the case and remove any PCI/PCI-E cards to rule out seating issues.
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Apr 23, 2014 08:36
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Ignoarints posted:Yes definitely. It is returnable right? That is pretty important lol It took nearly 40 flicks of the PSU switch to get the computer to switch on this morning - strange thing is that a) the motherboard light is on when the PSU is switched on, leading me to believe it's getting power OK, and b) when the switch actually turns the computer on, it does so without me having to press the case power button. Anyway, this can't go on and the PSU is the most likely culprit. Are the internal power cables all generic even across brands? It would save some mucking about if I could just remove the Seasonic PSU itself and fire in the Corsair one I'm getting, and just plug everything into it. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00FG9G0PY/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=computers WattsvilleBlues fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Apr 23, 2014 |
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Apr 23, 2014 15:21
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In the mean time you can stop turning off your computer ;-)
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Apr 23, 2014 15:37
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