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Intervention posted:I don't know if I should post here or in the networking thread but I'll post here anyways. I have two computers networked one is my 9 year old computer that is now a fileserver (all HD's are IDE cabled). The other computer is my main machine that came standard with gigabit ethernet. I installed a gigabit ethernet card on my fileserver and the fastest data transfers I can get between computers is 12.5MB/sec. Both cards are set to full duplex so I don't know what else to do. The router I use is also gigabit so I know its not the problem. Anyone have some advice? You can't use CAT5 cables - you need CAT6 Cables or CAT5E cables. link for more info.
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Apr 4, 2008 01:45
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Chunjee posted:I was wondering what was the best way to diagnose motherboard, CPU, and RAM issues; I have some older systems that turn on but have no video output with several different PCI or AGP Video Cards. One system does have video output but will shuttdown before any OS can fully load. Yes, you have to swap them. You only need a good MB, Ram, and Processor to post. Looking up the beep codes (if your motherboard supports it) is also really helpful. You have a really, really low risk of damaging any components, mostly from ESD, so strap up if you care enough.
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Jul 20, 2008 20:32
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I've got two 36GB WD Raptors and 1 74GB WD Raptor. I also have a Striker Extreme MB. Any problems if I RAID 0 the two small guys and then RAID 1 the resulting disc with the 74GB? Is it not even worth it, in terms of performance? (I've got a few other 200+GB HDs and then about 3TB worth of storage space - this would primarily be for my Windows partition + Progs and Games. I prefer not to do RAIDZ or grom my pool, yo).
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Sep 8, 2008 11:53
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Looking at DIY installing a gigabit backbone into the house I'm getting ready to buy. I think I'm probably going to be running CAT6 -> Patchpanel -> Switch -> Router w/ Tomato firmware. Is a switch with Jumoframe support really worth it? Can I get some good 24 port switch recommendations (both with and without jumboframe support). Tips, comments, death threats?
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Oct 21, 2008 02:59
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divx posted:My WD Raptor is about to die and I was wondering if anyone knows a way to speed up the RMA process so I won't have to be without my PC for a week. Try overnighting it there and asking them if you can pay to overnight it back?? Any switch suggestions, goons?
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Oct 22, 2008 23:18
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jmcg_omg_kekeke posted:So, I keep meaning to make a file server out of an old computer I have, but it's giving me too many problems, and I kind of forgot about it for a while. Yesterday I saw someone with a harddrive that had a network adapter in it, and I learned that NAS existed. Welcome Linux ISO downloading buddy. They actually have a thread devoted to just this that will help you - whether you want a commercial NAD HD or a DIY Box you built from scratch: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2801557
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Oct 24, 2008 16:50
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Shinryu posted:I'm not sure if this is the best place to ask this, but I can't reach a mod on AIM for guidance. Anyway, I'm interested in purchasing an external hard drive, and found this LaCie 301838U 2TB Hard Disk MAX by Neil Poulton Dual Drive RAID External Hard Drive. The only problem is that I can't find too many reviews. With that in mind, has anyone got any experience with this item, and, if so, could you tell me about it? While I haven't used that drive in particular, I do have a LACIE 1TB external (it's the 2x500GB in RAID0 USB-only version). I started out with two of them about two years ago. I wound up taking them on ship with me and around the world to seven different countries including Kuwait. They were frequently lent out to people who abused them (I found one guy balancing my drive (while in use) on a beam 12 feet off the ground while the ship was rocking) and in general they worked great. One of them quit working (the power cords were that model's one weak point) and I was promptly issued an RMA for it. Sadly, it wound up being dropped off of a bunk that was about 8 feet off the ground and the innards shot out of the metal case. I didn't think they'd RMA it after that. The other one still works to this day (the power plug is a little touchy, though) and I'm preparing to rip it open and pull out the drives. LACIE makes great drives, be careful with the power cord, be aware that having two drives in RAID0 means you're twice as likely to have a drive fail and screw your data. That piano finish will collect fingerprints like crazy and the plastic case looks flimsy.
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Jun 29, 2009 18:53
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Ema Nymton posted:My new fan setup has solved all my heat problems. Hooray! But Now I've got a big hole where my 120mm fan is. I've got your back, homeslice. 5.25 Mesh Bay w/ Filter - $10
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Jun 30, 2009 20:38
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Space Gopher posted:You shouldn't need filter material on an exhaust vent. You just need something to over up the grey metal frame. If I were in your situation, I'd probably just take everything out of the case, take the trim off, and hit it with two or three coats of black spraypaint. It'll blend in with the black plastic and wouldn't look too bad. Eh, he could get an exacto knife and trim them down to size. Also there is a hole on the side of the brackets where worst comes to worse he can just drill through the drive cage and put a bolt through. Or use zip ties to secure them to the drive bay. Or something. A chopped down drive bay cover is going to look way better the a gaping hole and some quickly applied spray paint. Plus you don't have to disassemble your entire rig. Or he could just get the legit version, assuming that fan he has in there is an add in: http://www.xoxide.com/scythe-kama-bay-cooler-black.html
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Jun 30, 2009 23:02
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Blacknightof82 posted:This is my first post on a message board in a long time. Hopefully, I'm not breaking any laws that will get my brand spankin new account revoked. Also, I hope I'm posting in the right place. My laptop is a Gateway M-6851 with a core 2 duo 1800MHz cpu and a Nvidia 2600 gpu. Lately it's been running HOT. A friend purchased Ghostbusters for me through Steam. I downloaded, defragged, and is running excessively choppy. I have up to date drivers. I downloaded speedfan to check the temp of the cpu only. Both cores show 73-80C. Is this too hot? Could this be the problem? If so, how can I fix it? Get a laptop cooler. Don't put your laptop down so that the exhaust ports are blocked (ie, on a blanket or something).
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Jul 1, 2009 01:56
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Blacknightof82 posted:Thanks, Eh, aluminum is better then plastic for whisking away heat, but ones with built in fans are best.
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Jul 1, 2009 06:48
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Shao posted:Although you just mentioning the word "molex" there has made me realise I could just easily get a molex to 6 pin adapter! So thanks for that! Did you check the 260 box? Most new GFX cards come with those adapters.
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Jul 2, 2009 03:32
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Shao posted:If ever there was a time for that Picard emoticon, this it it. It was snuggled comfortably into a pile of clothes. Thanks guys, was in too much of a rush to get it installed! Clean up your drat goon cave! Just kidding, glad you got it sorted.
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Jul 2, 2009 03:42
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Anyone have a good, cheap vendor for SAS -> Sata cables? I got a new high end RAID card and need the SAS 4X -> SATA cables. I've found some listings on google but none that have prices posted. - One SAS SFF8087 x4 internal connector - One SAS SFF8470 x4 external connector
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Jul 7, 2009 22:04
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alanthecat posted:What power supply do I need for an AMD Duron 1400 with 4 hdds and a burner? The guy in the shop told me 350 would be fine but I think it has caused me problems. And I've all the PCI slots full. It isn't the wattage of the PS, it's the quality. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3056150&pagenumber=1 gently caress, question from page 1 Ceros_X fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Jul 10, 2009 |
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Jul 10, 2009 20:58
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Haier posted:I bought my hard-drive, but my kit for transferring the files is not compatible. Can anyone tell me what kind of cable I would need for this type of drive connection?: You can get one of these SATA/IDE to USB Adapters to transfer files from hard drives to a computer via USB. I have one and it works fine. Also, note that in the hard drive you posted, there are two power connectors. One SATA power connector (far left in picture) and one 4 pin molex connector (far right in picture). Only use one power connector, don't try and hook up both. One with better reviews: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812232002 Ceros_X fucked around with this message at 11:25 on Aug 5, 2009 |
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Aug 5, 2009 11:22
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Dominoes posted:What Joystick should I buy? I'm going to use it for ArmA 2, the Google Earth flight sim, Hawx and maybe some flight sims if I buy them. I've got something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Saitek-X45-Control-Joystick-Throttle/dp/B00005TOTG that I don't use that I'd let go of for a little less then $50 if you're interested.
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Aug 8, 2009 12:07
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Dominoes posted:What model is it specifically? Just checked the packaging and it is actually the Saitek X45, pics available if you want to shoot me your e-mail via PM or something. Or I can open an SA-Mart thread.
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Aug 9, 2009 00:09
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Yuyuke posted:That'd be a great idea if this thing came with a manual. http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?SLanguage=en-us hey cool online manual download jigga whut
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Aug 14, 2009 18:19
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Stupid Newegg Open Box policy.
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PlasticSpoon posted:Whats the difference between a Wireless Access Point and a Wireless Bridge? A wireless bridge allows you to turn a wireless signal into an ethernet cord that you can plug into a non-wifi, network capable device. So, yeah, you should just need an ethernet bridge, assuming you can connect normally to your wifi network from wherever you need the bridge at.
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Dec 29, 2009 02:39
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Goncyn posted:Thanks. Just to be clear, this is true even if that single card on a single lane is driving four monitors? Also, do you mind if I ask why? I totally failed at Googling information about video card bus bandwidth usage, and I'd like to know how you know x1 is enough. You could check this article out, where it talks about running a high end card at different rates. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/pci-express-scaling-analysis,1572.html (Not exactly what you're looking for, but eh ) Also, something like this seems to handle it just fine (see reviews) http://tinyurl.com/yygwvhd . I think everyone's saying it'd be cheaper to just by a x16 card and use it in a x1 slot. Ceros_X fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Apr 15, 2010 |
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Apr 15, 2010 22:29
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~Coxy posted:May I ask though what single-width video card can drive four monitors? See my tinyurl link two posts up.
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Apr 16, 2010 03:41
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Make sure you have all the power plugs needed for the new card before you go to switch them out. Sometimes the newer, faster cards require a 6 pin power connector (looking at some random brands of ATi HD 4650 your apparently does). If he threw away his Y adapter and your PS is an older one with no connector it could be a pain.
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May 5, 2010 00:42
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Wendow posted:I'm going to upgrade my motherboard, CPU, RAM, and video card. I currently have Windows 7 installed on my hard drive. Will there be any problems if I just hook up my hard drive to the new motherboard/setup? I was going to just reformat and re-install but I got Windows 7 through MSDNAA during the school year and I forgot to write down my key. I won't be able to look it up until the semester starts next month. You should be able to use a program like http://download.cnet.com/WinGuggle/3000-2094_4-10795752.html or something to recover your Windows CD Key. Then just reinstall with said key.
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Aug 4, 2010 02:34
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BorderPatrol posted:It probably wont boot. Windows 7 is better than previous versions but you're going to be installing hardware it may not have drivers for to begin with. I was going to recommend that also, but apparently the free version doesn't work with Win7. Gotta upgrade for that.
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Aug 4, 2010 02:35
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BorderPatrol posted:I guess Speccy was updated to read CD keys now too. That is pretty neat - thanks.
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Aug 4, 2010 02:43
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Danger Mahoney posted:I ordered a replacement case that has four 120mm fans in it. I have always used the motherboard headers to power and control the speeds of the fans in my case, but it only support controlling two fans at once. What do I do with four? Am I going to have to suck it up and just plug them into the power supply and let them all run at constant speed? They have fan controller cards or breakout boxes: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998032 etc that let you hook up all your fans and control them individually or all at once. Google "Fan controller" or "Fan controller card" or search on Newegg. Ceros_X fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Aug 8, 2010 |
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Aug 8, 2010 19:38
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Ironsights posted:^Was I retarded and bought incompatible parts? I have only built two computers ever, so I'm wondering if I've missed something stupid. Do you have the additional 8 pin PSU plug plugged into the MB?
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Aug 19, 2010 00:24
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StickFigs posted:I'm looking for a wireless adapter. Pretty sure you need a Wireless Bridge. A quick google search for "wireless bridge n" turns up a bunch of results. Should just be able to hook that up and plug it into your router and carry on as normal. I'd recommend one, but I don't have any experience with them.
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Sep 1, 2010 04:34
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Danger Mahoney posted:I have always thought it would be cool to have a tiny monitor on my desk that would just display a bunch of customizable information. Things like a gmail notifier, system temperatures, twitter feeds, etc. The closest I've found is the Liliput or Mimo USB monitors, but those things are fuckall expensive, and it doesn't look like there's any huarantee of software that would make it work the way I wanted. Wireless Bridge/Ethernet Converter (converts wireless to Ethernet) are pretty much the same thing. You need a router (or switch for a dumb configuration) to let you hook up multiple devices to the bridge. If you don't have a problem just unplugging the cable from the PS3 and plugging it into the 360 you shouldn't need a router or switch. (They just give you more ports to plug into hurrr) As far as the secured/unsecured thing, sounds feasible (assuming they don't restrict you to only one connection at a time - only one secure or insecure at a time but that would be dumb) I guess. It would help if there were more details. Also, apparently, you can search for 'Wireless N gaming adapter' to find some made to do it: http://www.beachaudio.com/Trendware/Tew-647ga-p-266167.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=tew-647ga&utm_content=atr
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Sep 1, 2010 22:18
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StickFigs posted:Well the deal with the secured/unsecured wifi thing is I know there are two different wifi things you can use, the secured one and the unsecured one. Using the secured one is only possible with a computer, so I wanted to have the Xbox and PS3 on the unsecured network while my PC would use the secured network. You don't need a wireless ethernet converter/bridge to hook up your laptop... just connect wirelessly. (If you have a desktop/laptop without a wireless card, then just drop the less then $20 on a Wireless N USB card) The reason why the router can give you problems is because routers by default use DHCP to hand out IP addresses. If your router is trying to hand them out and the school network is trying to hand them out things can get boned. Switches can't do that, they are just dumb with no DHCP on board. You can configure the router not to use DHCP, but you know, effort.
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Sep 2, 2010 04:20
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Hadlock posted:In my experience RAM has a pretty noticeable effect on battery life. Quadrupling your RAM is going to quadruple your RAM power drain. My laptop's ram has a heat spreader on it and is pretty darn hot, now imagine adding 4x the ball roasting fire to your laptop, and figure out how much wattage it takes to heat and keep heated those extra RAM sticks. My netbook went from 3 hrs down to 2.5 hrs when I went from 1 to 2GB, my laptop went from 1.5 hrs (older battery) down to about an hour when I went from 512mb->1gb I think Microsoft disagrees with you. In fact, they recommend ADDING RAM to CONSERVE BATTERY POWER. http://www.microsoft.com/atwork/maintenance/battery.aspx Yeah, it is definitely the ram that is making your laptop 'ball roasting hot'. 
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Sep 13, 2010 21:51
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The Mack and Cheese posted:Also, after first guy helped me with the RAM, he suggested flashing the BIOS. He mentioned there's a 10% chance that it would ruin my motherboard, but I think that's too much of a risk. I'm gonna try what you guys recommended first. There isn't a 10% chance that flashing your BIOS would ruin it, that's pretty ridiculous. You will only run into problems if you pull the power halfway through the process or should lose power halfway through the process. Although, from reading your posts, you seem pretty spastic and the tech on the phone thought there was a 10% chance you would just pull the power halfway though for fun. The Mack and Cheese posted:And I have an external hard drive to save files, but that would mean re-installing all the games and progs I have, which I really dread doing. OMG, not   I know you can't live without your PC for two weeks (lolwhut). Suck it up and deal with the 5 hours it takes to reinstall and reload your programs while you watch anime or quit bitching about your frame rates.
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Sep 17, 2010 06:27
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Lovie Unsmith posted:I just upgraded my work computer, but I still need the old one for a legacy app until a newer version gets installed on my new one. Since moving off my desk my old one has decided to boot in VGA mode (640x480, 16 colors) and if I right-click on the desktop and choose Properties, it blue-screens and cites corruption in VGA.DLL - I literally only moved it from one desk to another Sounds dumb, but if there's discrete graphics in yuor computer make sure you are plugging your DVI/VGA/HDMI cable into the discrete graphics card port and not the integrated one coming out of the MB.
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Aug 11, 2011 02:46
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Moved it back to my desk, same thing.
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Whoops, that was a very old question!
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Aug 12, 2011 18:00
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GODDAMN FOOL posted:I'm currently building a PC on which I plan to run 3 21.5" monitors. I keep seeing mixed answers about whether I'll need to GPUs or not. Right now, I plan on getting one 6950 (or maybe 6970, I can't decide), but will I need 2 GPUs for 3 monitors (keeping in mind the framerates also) or can I just chain 3 monitors together? Maximum PC did a recent article where the compared different multiple monitor solutions. Check it out (especially the third page) http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/multiscreen_madness_we_test_four_incredible_display_setups?page=0,0 HoH!
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Aug 12, 2011 23:12
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enotnert posted:I personally use WD essentials. . . I mean basically any drive by a major manufacturer will work just fine. If you go reading the reviews they'll normally be slammed down by people who got ones out of a bad batch. gently caress WD externals. Yes, please give me an external with a supershort micro USB cable that falls out if you bump it that has integrated shitware (WD SmartWare, Memeo, etc) that you need a special program to remove.. it'd be one thing if it was something a simple format could take care of, but a VCD you need a special utility to remove? No thanks!
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Aug 19, 2011 22:49
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Etrips posted:What would you recommend then? I really just want something I can drag and drop what I want onto it. I've always had good experience with Toshiba HDDs, but that's anecdotal. Most major hard drive manufacturers should be fine, I'd just try and stick to hard drives with mini-usb cables instead of micro. Some manufacturers you should probably look at as: Samsung, Toshiba, Seagate. Here is a newegg search filtered to those manufacturers with only 2.5" (notebook drives that only require USB power to run) externals showing. You should be able to further refine it by price/capacity. (Check the pictures to see what sort of connector it has if that matters to you). http://tinyurl.com/etrips-hdds After you find one you like, punch the hard drive name and model into google and hit shopping and see if any major retailers (Amazon, bestbuy, etc) is selling it cheaper then newegg. Bob Morales posted:It's in the ROM of the controller chip. Just ignore it. Eh, my employer's computer security restrictions prevent the drives from being installed (the VCDs aren't on the hardware whitelist and it keeps the device from being reconigzed), so I have to remove it in order to use it at work. Plus it is bullshit to not be able to remove it without a simple format. Although the reason you mentioned is also a good one. Ceros_X fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Aug 19, 2011 |
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Aug 19, 2011 23:26
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Alereon posted:This is a lot more expensive and complicated. What you're looking for is a Network Attached Storage box, or NAS. These have Ethernet ports that you connect to your router or switch, allowing any computer on your network to access the data, including over a wireless connection if you have a wireless router. The less expensive devices use a proprietary protocol called Network Direct Attached Storage, which requires you to install software on each computer that you want to be able to access the drive on, which is pretty lovely. Here's an example NAS box for $107.85, it's actually the only one I see on Newegg that doesn't use the NDAS crap. Alternatively, your router may have USB ports to allow you to plug in and share USB drives. Keep in mind that accessing your drive over Wireless will be a LOT slower than over USB, over a wired Gigabit Ethernet network it can range from being a bit slower to a bit faster than USB 2.0, but at best will be about half the speed of a USB 3.0 connection. Actually I think he's talking about this, which I didn't even know existed. Apparently it is extremely format picky, etc. Nice concept though. LifeSizePotato, as far as I know, there are no enclosures like this available for you to roll your own - you'll have to use a premade one.
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Aug 20, 2011 05:13
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LifeSizePotato posted:Honestly, I was originally wanting to just buy something off Amazon that's ready to go, like that link you just posted. I only had the idea of making my own after reading the talk above about making your own external drive using an enclosure. I figured we'd have the technology by now to just plug hard drive into the wall and do some basic wired setup to let the network see it, and BAM, file sharing for the whole house. A lot of routers have a USB port built into them that lets you plug in a HDD and share it like you are saying, but in practice it isn't nearly as smooth (nor transfers as fast) as you would like. Also what Aleron said, etc.
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Aug 20, 2011 05:21
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