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I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with 29k miles. Within the last month when making a sharp left hand turn with any kind of speed and get a loud clunk sound from the front left end. Any ideas on what this could be? Car seems to handle as well as you would expect an Accent to handle. Would this type of item be worthwhile to have looked at by the dealer and if so, would it be covered under warranty?
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| # ? Jul 19, 2007 10:45 |
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| # ? May 21, 2013 09:24 |
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Lincoln`s Wax posted:Didn't sound like metal on metal to me but it was an odd noise- a bit like someone skidding their feet across carpet. Lincoln's Wax posted:Anyway, I only get it when I hit the bigger bumps. Any ideas as to what might be wrong? I got out with a mirror and looked under the car and didn't see where anything was hanging down from underneath. Is there anything hanging down/malformed in your wheel wells? Lincoln's Wax posted:Knowing my luck, the entire thing will just blow apart on the road and I'll get to die a horrible death. Whatever is wrong, you're in a Honda, which is not a terribly unsafe car at all. Even in the case of catastrophic failure, you'll likely be fine, the only way you could really get hurt is a mechanical failure that caused loss of control and then the resulting accident from THAT ended up hurting you. You'll be fine. The car may be, and if it isn't your insurance will make it right, don't worry about it too much.
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| # ? Jul 19, 2007 12:28 |
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professor of whales posted:I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent with 29k miles. Within the last month when making a sharp left hand turn with any kind of speed and get a loud clunk sound from the front left end. Any ideas on what this could be? Car seems to handle as well as you would expect an Accent to handle. Would this type of item be worthwhile to have looked at by the dealer and if so, would it be covered under warranty? I would just take it to the dealer. They won't charge you to look at it if it's under warranty and I can't think of any reason they wouldn't fix it as such unless it's due to a bent rim or something.
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| # ? Jul 19, 2007 12:37 |
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swanage posted:Whatever is wrong, you're in a Honda, which is not a terribly unsafe car at all. Even in the case of catastrophic failure, you'll likely be fine, the only way you could really get hurt is a mechanical failure that caused loss of control and then the resulting accident from THAT ended up hurting you. Oh stop reassuring me, my family could use the money! And yeah, it does sound like rubber. I wasn't sure at first but on my way home in the mornings I can ride with the windows down and I did my damnedest to make it happen and it only did it once when I took a curve rather aggressively. I'm going to go out more today but I've taken it over some extra-meaty bumps and it hasn't happened. With the windows down it certainly sounds more like rubber than metal. I'm going to try and check the wheelwells but the car came with 17's, so it's kinda hard to see/feel around them. If I'm lucky, my neighbot might let me scoot up onto his ramp so I can see under them better. Thanks for the advice though, it's certainly happening a lot less that it did at the start, so maybe I'll be lucky this time around and it's just something small that's loose in there.
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| # ? Jul 19, 2007 13:21 |
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Would it be entirely retarded to consider buying an automatic BMW 2002 and swapping the transmission? http://www.usedvictoria.com/classif...=passenger-cars
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| # ? Jul 20, 2007 05:02 |
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poisoned pie posted:Could someone please explain what an 'exhaust cutout' is/does (in the context of modifying a v8 vehicle) and how it improves performance/what benefits it has? First, a picture:  There pipe on the LEFT side of that image is welded inline into the exhaust, usually somewhere just after the cat. The right side is left open - not connected to anything. The wire is run to a switch and power. Flip the switch, the plate inside the left pipe closes, the plate inside the right pipe opens. The result? The exhaust flow is diverted away from the rest of the exhaust system and out the much shorter, much more open pipe. And it's LOUD. Really loud. In some cases, better performance due to lowered exhaust restriction. It really is quite loud, though. mexecan posted:Would it be entirely retarded to consider buying an automatic BMW 2002 and swapping the transmission? Krakkles fucked around with this message at Jul 20, 2007 around 06:58 |
| # ? Jul 20, 2007 06:50 |
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AXE EFFECT posted:Stick Shift Question I found a steep, but quiet residential road that was very wide and kept practising it as a normal start without the parking brake. This is speaking from driving my first manual which was a 325i. I know how heavy the clutch is and it's definitely not something easy to get used to. Eventually you get fast enough that you roll back for merely a split second or not at all and without stalling or leaving too much rubber on the ground. It's worse when you're in an under-powered 17 year old Toyota that has a slipping clutch and you have to reverse up a hill and rolling forward just 5 cm means hitting a $60,000 dollar car.
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| # ? Jul 20, 2007 08:42 |
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I drive 1999 Saab 93 with 98k miles on it. So far it has treated me really well and I quite enjoy the car. Recently I have noticed the smell of gas on startup and was wondering what the cause of this might be. I remember reading somewhere that this can be a tell-tale sign of dirty fuel injectors?
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| # ? Jul 20, 2007 11:39 |
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The reverse on my 328is is strong enough that I don't have to give it gas. I've never stalled going in reverse. Is it bad that I slip the clutch a bit to reverse? Or should I just engage it all the way and use the brake to slow down and risk stalling?
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| # ? Jul 20, 2007 17:37 |
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I absentmindedly threw my truck into park while it was still rolling tonight, not very fast at all. It ratcheted/ground a bit. Anyone think that was enough to break the parking pawl? 
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| # ? Jul 21, 2007 03:09 |
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AXE EFFECT posted:The reverse on my 328is is strong enough that I don't have to give it gas. I've never stalled going in reverse. Is it bad that I slip the clutch a bit to reverse? Or should I just engage it all the way and use the brake to slow down and risk stalling? Your clutch isn't going to die from slipping, it's meant to slip. Just slip the drat thing. Fats posted:I absentmindedly threw my truck into park while it was still rolling tonight, not very fast at all. It ratcheted/ground a bit. Anyone think that was enough to break the parking pawl? No.
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| # ? Jul 21, 2007 03:19 |
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Not so much a question, more a request, but I didn't think it had enough merit for a thread. PNW goons feel like divulging some good driving roads around the Seattle area? Getting the itch to go for a cruise, but I just moved here so I don't have a loving clue where to go, outside of picking a direction on a compass and following it til I hit water, Canada, or deadlocked traffic.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 03:41 |
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Is it normal for a valve stem to leak a little air with the cap off? I noticed a tire getting low today, and when I refilled it it seemed like I could feel a little breeze coming from it. I might have been imagining it, though. It'd suck to have a bad valve stem. I know it's cheap to replace but I don't trust any local shops to not gently caress up the finish on my wheels. 
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 04:18 |
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onezero posted:Not so much a question, more a request, but I didn't think it had enough merit for a thread. PNW goons feel like divulging some good driving roads around the Seattle area? Getting the itch to go for a cruise, but I just moved here so I don't have a loving clue where to go, outside of picking a direction on a compass and following it til I hit water, Canada, or deadlocked traffic. They won't be much fun until it stops raining, though.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 04:43 |
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Pitch posted:Is it normal for a valve stem to leak a little air with the cap off? I noticed a tire getting low today, and when I refilled it it seemed like I could feel a little breeze coming from it. I might have been imagining it, though. Could it just be the valve core? It should cost like $5 (judging from what I saw online) for a new one. You can replace it yourself.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 05:36 |
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my check engine light has been on for over a year now on my 99 chrysler 300m... is there a way to figure out what is wrong with my engine without having to pay a mechanic to look at it for lots of money? it's been running fine.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 05:54 |
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Erik posted:my check engine light has been on for over a year now on my 99 chrysler 300m... is there a way to figure out what is wrong with my engine without having to pay a mechanic to look at it for lots of money? it's been running fine. Go to an AutoZone, they will do a free code check for you. Won't tell you specifically what is wrong, but gives you a drat good idea. It could be something simple that isn't actually harmful, like a sensor got dirty so you run a little worse, or maybe it is something that should have been fixed a year ago. When the light came on. If it is still running fine, though, chances are it isn't catastrophic.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 06:20 |
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What exactly is rev-matching and how does one do it correctly? Also, what is heel-toe shifting?
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 13:10 |
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Ok. This is about the stupidest car question ever. Whenever a mid to current era Chrysler minivan pulls up to a stoplight, or comes to a stop, I always hear this sound that I can only describe as a ziptie being cinched up. ZEEEEUOOP. I've also noticed some mid sized Chrysler cars of the same vintage making the same sound when approaching or coming to a stop. Is it the transmission down shifting or something? EDIT: heyou posted:What exactly is rev-matching and how does one do it correctly? Here's a good example of heel toe shifting and how to do it. http://www.caranddriver.com/feature...quick-feet.html Rev matching is blipping the throttle of your engine to bring it up to the same speed as your transmission, which is important in road racing because if you enter a turn and the engine is at idle and your try to bring the drivetrain down to the same speed, your wheels are going to lock up or lose traction. grzydj fucked around with this message at Jul 22, 2007 around 13:32 |
| # ? Jul 22, 2007 13:30 |
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heyou posted:What exactly is rev-matching and how does one do it correctly? I think rev matching is you take the car out of gear, rev the engine to higher RPMs and then upshift into a lower gear. Since the engine is at the right RPMs already, it makes the shift smoother. I could be wrong though Heel Toe is pressing the gas and brake at the same time by placing your foot horizontally over the two pedals. don't think is has anything to do with shifting
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 13:33 |
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Laminator posted:Heel Toe is pressing the gas and brake at the same time by placing your foot horizontally over the two pedals. don't think is has anything to do with shifting It has everything to do with shifting. It allows you to rev match during a downshift by hitting the gas while being on the brakes at the same time. Rev matching is just making sure your engine is at the correct RPM for the gear you are about to shift into. This allows a quicker shift, less jerkiness from the car, and less wear on the clutch.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 14:48 |
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Laminator posted:rev the engine to higher RPMs and then upshift into a lower gear. You have interesting technique, must be a quantum gearbox.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 20:40 |
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What's the point of getting bigger wheels? Is it purely for asthetic reasons, or are there changes to performance?
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 21:56 |
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Bored College Guy posted:What's the point of getting bigger wheels? Is it purely for asthetic reasons, or are there changes to performance? Hmm. Getting larger diameter wheels increases your top speed and makes you speedometer no longer accurate. Getting wider wheels increases traction and handling. Getting big rimz doesn't change the diameter of your wheels at all I am pretty sure. You just get lower profile tires to compensate for your big rims, which gives your car a sportier feel for the road I think. I don't know too much about this though.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 22:03 |
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ynotony posted:Getting big rimz doesn't change the diameter of your wheels at all I am pretty sure. You just get lower profile tires to compensate for your big rims, which gives your car a sportier feel for the road I think. I don't know too much about this though. Bigger rims with lower profile tires gives a harsher ride, but there will be less flex in the tire while turning. It also allows you to run bigger brakes because you have more room.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 22:37 |
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Krakkles posted:
Awesome, thanks heaps for clearing that up! Now, with this newfound knowledge I suspect I need to put one on my FC for rotary shenanigans.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 22:51 |
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Uthor posted:Bigger rims with lower profile tires gives a harsher ride, but there will be less flex in the tire while turning. It also allows you to run bigger brakes because you have more room. If you don't want to spend the money on huge 17s or 18s or 19s and/or putting new, bigger brakes on, just get wider 15s or whatever and those will be fine.
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 23:05 |
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Bored College Guy posted:What's the point of getting bigger wheels? Is it purely for asthetic reasons, or are there changes to performance? If you run a larger wheel with a lower-profile tyre, you will get a stiffer sidewall, which is preferred for cornering, doesn't flex as much as a standard size tyre. I suspect the reasons that many people get larger wheels are purely asthetic based, especially for 26" STUNNAS, which actually make a car quite slower, due to each wheel weighing upwards of 30-40lbs (total ballpark).
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 23:11 |
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Uthor posted:Bigger rims with lower profile tires gives a harsher ride, but there will be less flex in the tire while turning. It also allows you to run bigger brakes because you have more room. It also increases the unsprung weight, the total rotating mass in the car, reduces your final drive ratio, and only increases your top speed if you are gear limited rather than aero limited. Bigger wheels only provide a performance benefit if you are able to effectively use more braking power, and then you still have a trade off you must make. You can mount low profile tires on all kinds of wheels, if you increase the diameter of the wheel, you must increase the distance from the drive axle to the road; you could always mount a tire with the same size sidewall on a smaller wheel and end up getting further benefits from that without all the extra weight. Bigger rims just have a better chance of curb rashing 
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| # ? Jul 22, 2007 23:11 |
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onezero posted:You have interesting technique, must be a quantum gearbox. it's a schroedinger gearbox, thank you very much  downshift into a lower gear okay
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 01:26 |
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Ok, I don't really think this is a dumb question, but i'm trying to avoid creating a new thread. I drive a 2001 Oldsmobile Alero, with about 30k miles. I live in South Florida, and during the summer (now) it rains a lot. So, usually on the way to work at a local mall i'm going to hit an ankle deep puddle somewhere. Of course, I don't fly through these puddles, and they are usually located in a parking lot so i'm doing about 10 mph. Once it feels like the underside of my car is getting a nice soak, my power steering kinda goes out. I'll start to hear a weird sound like a struggling electrical motor as I try very hard to turn the wheel, and today my battery light came on as I was going through a rather large puddle. But it's nothing terribly deep. So, AI. Why does my steering wheel almost lock up when I go through puddles? It's kinda unsafe.
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 01:32 |
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A couple of questions: I bought a set of 5 wheels that are the same size as my stock wheels. I got them since they came with 4 winter tires that have ~80% tread left. The previous owner said that one of the wheels is bent, though (He marked it with tape but I can't really tell that it's bent). How can I verify that it's bent (can any tire shop do this?) and where and how much would it cost to repair? Also, the new wheels are around 10 lbs lighter than my stock wheels. Would it be worth it to swap the tires from my stock wheels to the lighter wheels and vice versa? I ride around with all-seasons for 3/4 of the year. Would that help with gas mileage and handling? I'm cringing at the cost of unmounting both sets of tires and remounting them on the other set of wheels. edit: according to wheelweights.net, the aftermarket wheels are 3.5lbs lighter than stock. So that's 14 lbs in all. Is it really worth it? lowcrabdiet fucked around with this message at Jul 23, 2007 around 15:39 |
| # ? Jul 23, 2007 02:30 |
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Darkstitch posted:Ok, I don't really think this is a dumb question, but i'm trying to avoid creating a new thread. Ok buddy bear with me, I'm not a car expert by any means. I can offer my most uneducated guess here but: its your power steering pump pulley. Or something to that effect. What I'm guessing is happening is that when you get all soaked up the pulley starts slipping so you lose power steering. Aka, the belt is still moving but not creating enough drag on the pump to make it move. So the steering wheel seems hard to steer for that reason. I don't know what the gently caress I'm saying. But at least it might have some truth.
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 02:33 |
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I keep hearing fantastic reviews of Cobb stage 2 power upgrades for the WRX. Is there any reason I shouldn't pony up and get one? If I do, I will not be getting the catback exhaust, as it appears to be only marginally helpful and will significantly raise my dB levels, and I'm sure that would be about enough to convince me not to get it but it costs $600 or so to boot. Without, the package costs just over $1000.
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 03:45 |
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Are alloy wheels any lighter than oem steel wheels you find on most cars? What about quality aftermarket wheels? Are these wheels usually significantly lighter than stock alloys?
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 04:23 |
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xdimitrix posted:Are alloy wheels any lighter than oem steel wheels you find on most cars? What about quality aftermarket wheels? Are these wheels usually significantly lighter than stock alloys?
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 04:34 |
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xdimitrix posted:Are alloy wheels any lighter than oem steel wheels you find on most cars? What about quality aftermarket wheels? Are these wheels usually significantly lighter than stock alloys?
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 04:47 |
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struan87 posted:You really have to check. There are plenty of wheel makers out there who sell wheels to people who just care about bling and don't know anything about weight.
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 14:50 |
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra and out of the blue last evening, my headlights stopped working. The tail lights, the turn signals, the parking lights, and the high-beams all work just fine, but the main headlights just won't turn on. I know almost nothing about car maintenance, but is there anything simple I can check or attempt before I take it down to a mechanic and pay money to fix something that is perhaps really silly?
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 20:27 |
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| # ? May 21, 2013 09:24 |
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Smackbilly posted:I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra and out of the blue last evening, my headlights stopped working. The tail lights, the turn signals, the parking lights, and the high-beams all work just fine, but the main headlights just won't turn on. I know almost nothing about car maintenance, but is there anything simple I can check or attempt before I take it down to a mechanic and pay money to fix something that is perhaps really silly? There might be a fuse you could check. Look in your manual for location of the fuse box/which fuse to pull. Another thing to check would be the bulbs, but I doubt that's it. If it's not both those things, there's probably something wrong with the electrical system. My car had bad sockets in the rear that would burn out turn signals in months. I'm assuming you are still under warranty. I would take it into the dealer after trying the first two options. It should be covered and you shouldn't have to pay anything.
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| # ? Jul 23, 2007 20:37 |
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