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The Human Cow posted:I've got a manual 2004 Saturn Ion that's been having some trouble starting lately. Usually, it turns over just fine. Most mornings when I leave for work, however, it makes a loud click (kind of like what it'd sound like with a dead battery, but louder and more forceful) repeatedly. It's not just when I leave for work, though - sometimes it'll happen in the middle of the day, even if I've been driving for a while beforehand. Sometimes it cranks up fine in the morning. It's always a guessing game. If I keep the key turned, it clicks about once a second and will occasionally turn over after a few clicks. More often than not, though, I'll have to jump it with a little portable jump starter that I keep in the back seat. I assume that it's not really drawing much power from the portable starter, since I haven't charged it in about two months. I thought that I had found the solution on this website, but that doesn't seem to have changed anything. I assume that step 1 here is getting the battery tested - what do I need to be looking at after that? Battery. The infamous Passlock issue will allow it to turn over just fine. Keep in mind you need a battery that will work with the external venting setup on the Ion. Don't put in a battery that won't work with the vent tubes, otherwise you get a trunk full of hydrogen (and a lot of corrosion). I know Diehard batteries are a direct swap, not sure which others will work without modifying the vent tubes.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 05:07 |
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| # ? May 18, 2013 20:13 |
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some texas redneck posted:Battery. The infamous Passlock issue will allow it to turn over just fine. AC Delco just in case he wasn't aware of the OEM battery brand. I'm still running A-Okay on my original 04 Ion battery, but that being said, the car has been in the frozen wasteland of Michigan that entire time.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 15:59 |
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Dumb question that I bet no one can answer, because google can't answer it and neither can tech support. On a Cummins C8.3 series engine, is the advertised block length of 44.4" including the block to SAE-whatever bellhousing adapter, and is it including the pulleys/accessory drives on the front, or is this a bare-block dimension? http://cumminsengines.com/uploads/d...7027.pdf‎ Knowing the reference points for the stated width of 29.5" and height of 43.1" would be nice too, but length is what is going to kill me here. edit: after much wrangling it turns out those dimensions are overall, widest/tallest/longest points. I think it'll fit. kastein fucked around with this message at May 17, 2013 around 17:30 |
| # ? May 17, 2013 17:14 |
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My 2006 Focus has been making a clunking sound over uneven pavement for over a year now. I thought the sound was caused by something near the front passenger-side wheel/suspension, but it is actually coming from the center of the engine bay, below and a foot aft of the engine. I can easily make the noise happen by rocking the car side-to-side while parked. Anyone have any experience with this issue, or how to more accurately diagnose the source of this godawful noise?
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| # ? May 17, 2013 17:55 |
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NVaderJ posted:My 2006 Focus has been making a clunking sound over uneven pavement for over a year now. I thought the sound was caused by something near the front passenger-side wheel/suspension, but it is actually coming from the center of the engine bay, below and a foot aft of the engine. I can easily make the noise happen by rocking the car side-to-side while parked. Anyone have any experience with this issue, or how to more accurately diagnose the source of this godawful noise? There's probably an engine mount there? Can you make the sound by revving the engine while parked?
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| # ? May 17, 2013 17:57 |
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No, no clunk when I rev it. Would replacing an engine mount be something relatively simple to do? I've replaced a top engine mount, but I imagine the lower mounts require some special equipment.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 18:15 |
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EightBit posted:You have textbook symptoms of a failing battery or loose and corroded battery cables. some texas redneck posted:Battery. The infamous Passlock issue will allow it to turn over just fine. I've replaced the battery once, but that was probably 4-5 years ago so I guess it's time to do it again. The one that's in there now came from Sears, so I'm guessing it's a DieHard. I'll switch out the batteries this weekend and report back.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 18:19 |
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5 years on a battery is pretty common life. The only way you will get more life is if you buy a way better battery. I would suggest Interstate, they seem to have a little better life than the average battery.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 19:28 |
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BrokenKnucklez posted:5 years on a battery is pretty common life. The only way you will get more life is if you buy a way better battery. Depends how long you plan on keeping the car, really. Don't buy interstate if you plan on ditching it in a year, for example.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 19:41 |
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NVaderJ posted:No, no clunk when I rev it. Would replacing an engine mount be something relatively simple to do? I've replaced a top engine mount, but I imagine the lower mounts require some special equipment. The only tricky thing about doing engine mounts is supporting the engine while you work on them, which you can usually do with a jack and a 2x4. If it isn't clunking when you rev it it might not be an engine mount. You might wait for it to be completely cool and check for loose heat shields or other parts that hang in the general area where you are hearing the clunking from.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 19:59 |
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NVaderJ posted:My 2006 Focus has been making a clunking sound over uneven pavement for over a year now. I thought the sound was caused by something near the front passenger-side wheel/suspension, but it is actually coming from the center of the engine bay, below and a foot aft of the engine. I can easily make the noise happen by rocking the car side-to-side while parked. Anyone have any experience with this issue, or how to more accurately diagnose the source of this godawful noise? Where is the sound in relation to your front axles?
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| # ? May 17, 2013 22:04 |
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We got any Nissan guys? I am not a Nissan guy, but I've got a line on a 2002 Sentra SE-R sitting with 120k on the clock, and no compression in 3 cylinders of the very exciting 2.5L. I guess the R means it's some kind of performance spec that boy racers pay too much for? If I can buy the car for $400 or less (which I think is a fair price), my total cost to R&R the motor with a new reman would be ~$3,200. It books for about $3500 with 120k miles, but I figure with a new reman I could ask $4500, let myself get beat down a little, make a decent profit, and have a good back burner project to occupy my spare time. I've seen people on craigslist asking about that for an 04 R spec with 70k... How do you value a car with a new reman, anyway? Anything I should be especially cautious of on these variety of Nissans? Does this sound like a bad idea to anyone else? My wife of course is not on board, but she pays a lady $150 bucks to do her hair every six weeks so what does she know. DrPain fucked around with this message at May 17, 2013 around 23:26 |
| # ? May 17, 2013 22:04 |
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Its not the best idea.... Your better off heading to the yards and finding a good motor out of another car. I have noticed that the used car market is just starting to soften a little. KBB/NADA are not the best indicators of your market, and better off looking at craigslist to see what cars are going for. I just don't see getting 3500 for it. You can prove me wrong, but I just don't see it. You can most likely hit the yards and get a motor for 500 at most, swap it in, and have 1000 into the car. Then try to sell it. As for your wife getting her hair done for 150 every 6 weeks, consider that a bargain. My ex was 100 every 3 weeks. I know, thank god we are divorced, and my now current GF just goes to a gal for 50 bucks for the work and the cost of a bottle of wine. Edit: What I am trying to say is that your taking a pretty decent gamble for spending 3000 on a car to potentially make money on. It never hurts to try, but in my book, taking a risk on anything over 2000 I pass on. I have right at 1800 in the Caddy I am selling, so if I can sell it for 2000 I will be happy. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at May 17, 2013 around 22:56 |
| # ? May 17, 2013 22:53 |
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'87 Lada Niva Got another thermo fan question. I have a couple of 10" thermo fans. By sheer coincidence both exactly the same model ones. They are more or less the same as Davies Craig thermo fans. I forget the brand. It's irrelevant anyway. My question is about mounting them. I want them both side by side as blow fans. Together they will just barely fit in the radiator opening. If I have them with the brackets at the top and bottom there's a few minor fitting issues like the CB aerial wire and the clips holding the headlight washer hoses. They may also need a couple of mm shaved from the housing so they can fit flush with the radiator. Otherwise they would be pushed into it. But if I turn the fans so the brackets are on the sides all those problems disappear. What I want to know is if I can get away with bolting the two fans together by the brackets in the middle. It'd simplify installation a whole lot. Mounting the two outer brackets to the edges of the radiator cutouts should be easy, but the join in the middle has me a shade concerned. I'm asking because I have the radiator out currently and through the bay is the only way I can install the fans. I pulled the radiator so I can give it a really good flush but I might as well tackle the fans while I'm at it.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 23:19 |
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Godholio posted:Where is the sound in relation to your front axles? As far as I can tell, it's coming from an area directly in line with the front axle, just about perfectly centered left/right. The engine sits further forward of the front axle than the other cars I've owned.
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| # ? May 17, 2013 23:45 |
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Will I be losing anything in the safety/stopping power area by buying cheap, generic eBay brake rotors instead of paying $hell for OEM or branded ones? The car's a 1994 Volvo 940.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 00:50 |
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atomicthumbs posted:Will I be losing anything in the safety/stopping power area by buying cheap, generic eBay brake rotors instead of paying $hell for OEM or branded ones? The car's a 1994 Volvo 940. People will cry and scream about how this is a bad thing to do but no, you wont. The type of pads you use will have far, far more impact on your braking and brake longevity than the rotor.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 00:55 |
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General_Failure posted:'87 Lada Niva Self quoting. I realised it's impossible to bolt two fans together because the integrated mount is designed to hold a nut captive. Guess I'm doing it the other way.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 01:49 |
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Slavvy posted:People will cry and scream about how this is a bad thing to do but no, you wont. The type of pads you use will have far, far more impact on your braking and brake longevity than the rotor. Just to reinforce this point, we use economy cheapie rotors with high dollar bendix pads at the shop with great success. Hardly any comebacks, and the ones who do are usually goofy two footed drivers or something.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 02:56 |
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DrPain posted:Just to reinforce this point, we use economy cheapie rotors with high dollar bendix pads at the shop with great success. Hardly any comebacks, and the ones who do are usually goofy two footed drivers or something. Listen buddy I've got two feet and I don't take kindly to you besmirching the name of me and people like me. t 
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| # ? May 18, 2013 04:11 |
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So I have a stupid question; how do you replace a headlight on a 1982 Chevy Cavalier? I've been trawling the internet and can't seem to come up with any answers and all the links I've found for the owner's manual are either dead or want money. Do I need any special tools? I don't own any socket wrenches, I just have some screwdrivers.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 04:50 |
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The lazy answer? Take it to Auto Zone or where ever and have them replace it for you for free.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 05:38 |
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DrPain posted:I am not a Nissan guy, but I've got a line on a 2002 Sentra SE-R sitting with 120k on the clock, and no compression in 3 cylinders of the very exciting 2.5L. I guess the R means it's some kind of performance spec that boy racers pay too much for? If I can buy the car for $400 or less (which I think is a fair price), my total cost to R&R the motor with a new reman would be ~$3,200. It books for about $3500 with 120k miles, but I figure with a new reman I could ask $4500, let myself get beat down a little, make a decent profit, and have a good back burner project to occupy my spare time. I've seen people on craigslist asking about that for an 04 R spec with 70k... The SE-R was the Sentra with the base model 2002+ Altima engine (QR25DE) instead of a 1.8 or 2.0, plus a stiffer suspension and a body kit. The engine is decent, if you catch two big issues early. The owner of your prospective 2002 chose to ignore the symptoms until it was too late. The main cause of loss of compression on these is from the catalytic converter breaking up - it's part of the exhaust manifold, and only a few inches from the exhaust ports. When they break up, pieces get sucked into the engine, destroying the rings and cylinder walls. Sometimes valves too. They usually turn into smokey oil burners before 60k because of this. There's also a secondary set of butterflies in the intake - the screws are known to back out and get sucked into the cylinders, usually damaging valves. A used engine would honestly be a gamble unless it comes from at least a 2007 - and I have no idea what changes would need to be done to make it work in a 2002. And you'll need to either eliminate the cat or find a way to make one from 2007+ work. Probably need some exhaust work to make it fit, but I'm not 100% on that. Any used 02-06 QR25DE should be considered damaged goods unless you can get a compression test done before buying the engine. This describes the issues in more detail. Though if you can get it for $500 or less, you could make your money back and then some just parting it out. They're supposed to be pretty fun cars, though I haven't driven one. some texas redneck fucked around with this message at May 18, 2013 around 06:07 |
| # ? May 18, 2013 06:05 |
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So I've been having this now somewhat recurring engine problem with my 2000 Mustang GT (4.6 SOHC 2valve) (earlier posts HERE), and my uncle and I are tearing into the engine to fix. Basically, I recently had a shop replace the oil pump and timing chain (kit) because of an apparent failure of the oil pump. Turns out, the driver side timing chain was actually rubbing on the oil pump, causing wear to both, and depositing metal in the oil. Like, a lot of finely ground metal. After the replacement, it ran fine for about 3 weeks, then the noise came back. We went in expecting to see something obviously wrong with how they installed it. I'm thinking that the tensioner on the driver side is not working correctly, and I'm hoping there's maybe some obvious reason why or troubleshooting I can do. Driver side tensioner:  Passenger side tensioner:  (Should the driver side be that much less extended? The issue with the timing chain seems to be that it's not tight enough, and I can't explain why that tensioner isn't just pushing harder) Back of the driver side tensioner with (and then without) block-off plate:   We've been working on this all night, so I'm not sure how much sense this post will make. I'll be back up in the morning to double check it and hopefully clarify anything silly I said. I'm hoping that there's some way to get that tensioner working again and not spend the next week pulling the engine, rebuilding it, and putting it back in, but ... it's 230am and I'm not hopeful. Sorry for cross posting but I'm hoping someone has some ideas!
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| # ? May 18, 2013 09:30 |
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Krakkles posted:So I've been having this now somewhat recurring engine problem with my 2000 Mustang GT (4.6 SOHC 2valve) (earlier posts HERE), and my uncle and I are tearing into the engine to fix. Basically, I recently had a shop replace the oil pump and timing chain (kit) because of an apparent failure of the oil pump. Turns out, the driver side timing chain was actually rubbing on the oil pump, causing wear to both, and depositing metal in the oil. Like, a lot of finely ground metal. After the replacement, it ran fine for about 3 weeks, then the noise came back. We went in expecting to see something obviously wrong with how they installed it. The left-hand tensioner is definitely not extended enough, you can even see how the tensioner rail isn't properly seated against the chain. I'm surprised there isn't some sort of gasket or seal between the plate and the tensioner, or the plate and the head, to stop oil pressure leaking past. Why don't you try taking the working tensioner out and compare? There's also the possibility that the oil passage feeding the bad tensioner is blocked. I'm not familiar with that engine so that's all I've got.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 10:11 |
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I'm looking to buy a new(er) car for the first time in my life. I always owned older cars (pre '94) I could work on myself and now I have some stupid questions. Can a person realistically work on a new car without proprietary equipment from a dealership? I've never owned a car with a warranty. Do used cars have warranties or do those not transfer to a second owner? My main goal is to have a car I can put 50k miles on for the next three-four years and not worry about anything besides basic maintenance.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 14:32 |
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some texas redneck posted:The SE-R was the Sentra with the base model 2002+ Altima engine (QR25DE) instead of a 1.8 or 2.0, plus a stiffer suspension and a body kit. The engine is decent, if you catch two big issues early. The owner of your prospective 2002 chose to ignore the symptoms until it was too late. Thanks for the info. The story on this one is dude lost oil pressure, decided to replace the oil pump, then started getting crank/cam correlation codes presumably because the timing chain tensioner is driven by oil pressure, and bent all his valves not knowing what the hell he was doing. I think I'm going to part it out instead.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 15:06 |
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Oceanlife posted:I'm looking to buy a new(er) car for the first time in my life. I always owned older cars (pre '94) I could work on myself and now I have some stupid questions. Yes, you can still work on your car. It might be worth investing in an OBD2 scanner, or the bluetooth dongle and Torque app for a phone or tablet; this way you can pull your own codes when a CEL comes on, and with Torque you can monitor a bunch of functions (some variation between car manufacturers, I guess). If you buy from a decent dealer, it should come with some kind of warranty, but I don't think most factory warranties transfer. Since you're experienced with the dark days of domestics, I'll also throw out there that they've pretty much cleaned up their act. I drove an '02 Focus to 140k and sold it to a neighbor last year running well and still getting 32 mpg. I love the hell out of my new Jeep, after about 22k so far. Edit: To clarify, some warranties transfer, some do not (based on a couple of minutes on google). It's up to the manufacturer. Best bet is to look up the specifics for the vehicle you're looking at. Godholio fucked around with this message at May 18, 2013 around 15:42 |
| # ? May 18, 2013 15:20 |
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Oceanlife posted:I'm looking to buy a new(er) car for the first time in my life. I always owned older cars (pre '94) I could work on myself and now I have some stupid questions. Yes, it is absolutely possible to do your own maintenance on a modern car. In fact with a generic Bluetooth OBDII adapter and a code-reading app like Torque, you can do much of what the OEM's diagnostic computers can do as well. If you buy a car still under warranty, the remainder of any warranty (extended or otherwise) will transfer to the new owner; likely all you will have to do is give your nearest dealer proof of ownership and your contact information to get it transferred over. Also, if you buy a used car from a dealer, they'll often come with a "certified pre-owned" limited warranty; they are very limited as to what they cover and aren't really worth the added cost you'd be paying for it, so keep that in mind when you shop around.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 15:28 |
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Maybe you duders can help me out a bit. Im contemplating various cheap project cars. Mostly late 90's japanse cars that I had boners for in high school. The car Im thinking of has a name with N...or 3? In it. Its either a mazda or nissan, its small and sporty looking. It had roundish headlights and some sort of weird really small displacement v6. Like a 1.8 liter v6  Any ideas? PaintVagrant fucked around with this message at May 18, 2013 around 17:33 |
| # ? May 18, 2013 17:30 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Maybe you duders can help me out a bit. Im contemplating various cheap project cars. Mostly late 90's japanse cars that I had boners for in high school. Mazda MX3, it did have a 1.8 V6.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 17:35 |
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Billy Tully posted:Mazda MX3, it did have a 1.8 V6. Yep thats it! Apparently they dont exist, a quick search online found very few of them. Bummer, thats a cool rear end little car.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 17:45 |
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| # ? May 18, 2013 20:13 |
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I see far fewer of them than I used to, and same with the closely related first gen Protege. They're neat cars and accept motor swaps from other contemporary models including a 2.5L V6 version of that small V6.
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| # ? May 18, 2013 18:08 |
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