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Er1c posted:I'm in the market for a bedroom HDTV, nothing huge - probably not more than 37" at the very maximum. From what I read in this thread, 1080p is going to be overkill at the distances I'm viewing at (do they even make 1080p TVs that small?). What I need is a suggestion on a TV that A) has at least one DVI input or multiple HDMI inputs, B) decent sound quality C) and I would prefer native 1080i (is that even possible?). Also, when is the best time of year to buy a new TV? I wouldn't have the money for one until June at the earliest, but would prefer to have a HDTV before August. I guess I would prefer LCD or as light as possible, but weight isn't really a huge issue. Thanks for any help A) I would suggest the Toshiba Regza at that size as it has a range of options. I would also suggest a Samsung LCD. The newer models should have higher contrast ratio and more HDMI ports. Regza 2007: http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-REGZA...74446087&sr=8-1 B) As much as I love my Samsung LN-S LCD, it just doesn't seem to have good sound quality. Sony's are overpriced LCDs, but I thought they were fine. Haven't heard enough from the Regza to say. C) 1080i is an analog source. It's not possible on an LCD.
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Mar 21, 2007 04:05
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Quidnose posted:So, now that I've got my fabulous 720p Samsung LCD, what's the best way to go about configuring it to get the most out of it? Is there anything I should be doing beyond loving with color levels or whatever? The picture looks amazing as is at the moment, but I want to make it as amazing as possible, obviously. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=706278&highlight=LNS I don't know what size you have, but they're all basically the same thing if you have the LNS. I guess through there and find the latest and greatest agreed on picture settings.
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Mar 21, 2007 04:12
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Phat_Albert posted:I asked this right at the end of the last thread. I just bought a Samsung DLP projection TV, and I think I have the video game lag issue. What system are you playing and can you link to the exact DLP you have?
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Mar 21, 2007 04:23
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Louisgod posted:I was able to snag a 32" Widescreen Samsung HD with 1080i support for $250. Anyway, I just picked up some component cables for my Wii, but the TV's cutting off about an inch or so from each side of the TV. Panorama picture size would fix the problem, but I'm getting a "Not Available" message when I try to choose it in the menu. It doesn't let me select the option while the Wii is in 480p mode, only 480i, which is really annoying. The picture fits perfectly when in 480i Widescreen, but, y'know, it's cut off in 480p. I have the components hooked into the second input if that makes any difference. I'm guessing it's the Slimfit CRT? As you said 1080i, I assume you mean that. Linking to the model would be helpful. However, as was covered in the last thread, those slimfit things are poo poo and have issues like that. Little Tortilla Boy posted:EDIT: I guess I should point out what I actually do with my TV. It's mostly for regular TV show viewing (24, American Idol, and lots of sports), A good amount of DVD viewing, and minor video game playing - and when I do play video games they're sports games through an S-Video connection, so I'm not crazy about the gaming quality. I would really suggest switching over to component when using a CRT. monoprice.com has some cheap components for channel boxes and DVD players, however for the games you'd have to buy them elsewhere. It's not that expensive off of monoprice, so I would suggest you move up with those as well. If you're buying a new HDTV, you might as well have the things that will allow it to work like an HDTV, right? Otherwise you might as well buy a standard definition television as that is all s-video is able to do. .Nathan. posted:Because they're never going to happen? That's like asking why Automotive Insanity doesn't have information on flying hypersonic space cars. Do some reading on the new Pioneer plasmas coming out. Everyone who has seen both the Pioneers and SEDs in person seems to think the Pioneers are equal. Not to mention they're actually going to be made in mass quantities and not cost as much as a house. Also OLED is coming along nicely and Sony has been showing off some decent-sized prototypes. I think OLED has a better chance than SED because of its large backing and the fact that it's already used in numerous small-scale applications. What do you consider as decent size prototypes? How small/large are they supposed to be?
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Mar 21, 2007 17:57
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Phat_Albert posted:I have noticed it on my XBOX, it is on a Samsung HL-S5086W 50" DLP HDTV I should have also asked you what cables you are using. Are you using component cables to get 480p (the red, green, blue cables)? Or are you using the composite cable (yellow cable)? The yellow cable is only able to do 480i, a standard definition picture. The television has to do a lot of processing to deinterlace the image and then bringing it up to its native 720p. Though I have never used anything on it that was standard definition, I have heard it does have issues upscaling the image to 720p. If you get component cables for the XBox, it should display the image into 480p (a progressive image). It should be easier for the television to just scale the image to 720p. Madcatz component: http://www.ebgames.com/product.asp?product%5Fid=801798 That should hopefully fix the issue. I have never used that television for anything at standard definition, so I can't say for sure. If you need the optical audio output, you'll need to buy the official component switch from Microsoft. Final note: If you do have component all set up, make sure you have the video settings in the menu at 720p and widescreen. Edit: Reading that Amazon list, it says it is an "Aspect Ratio: 4:3". Is your TV widescreen? Otherwise, I haven't used that TV at all. If it's an HD television and not widescreen, it's probably a cheapo economy line of television where parts such as processing is m'eh at best. If it is 16:9 widescreen, Amazon becomes stupid for their listing. Donkey Kunt fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Mar 21, 2007 |
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Mar 21, 2007 21:14
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bull3964 posted:Anyone have anything negative to say about the Samsung LN-S4095D 40" LCD TV. The only drawback I would say is that you don't need 1080p at that size, and if you want to super future proof technology, it also doesn't have HDMI 1.3. Otherwise, it's all good.
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Mar 22, 2007 01:48
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^^^BLEEEEHbull3964 posted:The newer HDMI standards are only audio improvements, right? http://www.hdmi.org/resourcecenter/index.asp It says it has higher processing for colors. I'm not sure how much more that means, but m'eh. I doubt it's something noticeable, but I never got to compare it side-by-side. Edit: Answer me this, Chemmy. Do televisions have to be specially modified with a new color/picture processor to do the 48 bit color? Or will it be something that comes standard with HDMI 1.3? That was really awkwardly worded. Donkey Kunt fucked around with this message at 04:21 on Mar 22, 2007 |
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Mar 22, 2007 04:18
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Scrambles posted:Anyone? It seems pretty rad for a budget tv, right? I have never heard or seen that brand of television.
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Mar 23, 2007 00:17
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Count Von Count posted:We're fairly sure that that TV had everything he need(HDMI, Component, VGA), although we're both new to buying HDTV's. But we saw it only has 1080i, not 1080p. He's read that for the most part this does not make a whole lot of difference right now, and I'd barely notice it anyway. How long is this going to stay true? Just to clear it up, it accepts 1080i signals. The television itself is a 720p set. If you were to set the source at 1080i, the television would have to rescale everything to fit it when it wouldn't put as much strain if it was set at its native display. As was said earlier, it looks like crap from the overview. However, I'm pretty drat picky.
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Mar 24, 2007 04:46
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Wood for Sheep posted:http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Specifications-of-Sharp-32-LCD-HDTV-LC32D62U/sem/rpsm/oid/174523/rpem/ccd/productDetailSpecification.do#tabs I pulled this off of Wikipedia. Wikipedia posted:Thus the ratio of the luminosity of the brightest and the darkest color the system is capable of producing simultaneously at any instant of time is called static contrast ratio, while the ratio of the luminosity of the brightest and the darkest color the system is capable of producing over time is called dynamic contrast ratio. Because of a bad issue with Sharps a long time ago that no longer applies to today, I don't follow Sharp's TV. However, you would probably be best off buying a 720p set. As Chemmy said, you could not see the difference unless you were an inch away at that size of television. Literally. I also imagine that to make that television 1080p, it has to sacrifice some quality elsewhere. A high end 720p set should always outdo a low end 1080p. For cable, you would have to get a box. I think when CableCARD 2.0 becomes available in TVs, that requirement would no longer be true. However, for now you do need a box. Also, if you don't buy cable, you can use a QAM receiverto watch unencrypted digital channels. Some are in HD, and some are not. It adds a few channels into the standard broadcast lineup. You can find QAM receivers on Sharp, Sony, and Toshiba sets, and some others.
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Mar 24, 2007 17:22
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Wood for Sheep posted:Alright, well if I really won't be able to tell the difference, then how about this one? Spec wise, I don't see anything wrong with it and it seems to be at a reasonable price. I never used it, so try to bring an XBox or something to Circuit City. Ask them if you can set it up, and sometimes they'll let you. If you don't see any noticeable problems, I would say go for it. Also about the box, I had no idea that a set-top box and a cable box was different! Someone else will have to answer that question. I'm in a state of shock and confusion.
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Mar 25, 2007 03:48
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Bukanza posted:I'm having difficulty deciding between two very similar HDTVs. Can someone give their input? Here are the two contenders: The question is is it be worth it to pay $325 for 720p over 1080p. It receives 1080i signals and downconverts them to 720p. The side question, should now read "If a 720p set gets a 1080i or 1080p signal, does it convert it to 1080i or 720p?" If you have everything set correctly, it would convert to 720p, which is the native resolution of the televion. If you had the 1080p set, it would upconvert the 720p signal to 1080p. If it was getting a 1080i signal, it would deinterlace the signal to 1080p. 1080i televisions are analog HD televisions, such as CRTs. If you get the first television that you listed, the KDL40S2000, make sure you set all incoming signals for 720p. Otherwise it would have to scale and adjust the image from 1080i down to 720p which could alter the picture.
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Mar 26, 2007 03:00
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Jaketeck posted:So whats all this about not being able to tell 720p from 1080p on a 40 inch set? Is it simply the content your viewing lacks the detail? You won't really notice the difference because the human eye can only perceive so much detail in an amount of space. That's a very small space that a lot of detail is going into. However, I got to use one of those recently with the 360 with component cables. The set is native to 1080p and accepts it over component. This was the set I got to use, I think. If it wasn't, it was the 65F. Either way, it's the same thing but different color scheme. 66F: http://samsung.com/Products/TV/LCDTV/LNT4066FXXAA.asp It was hands down the best LCD TV I have ever gotten to use for the 360. It was very colorful, quick, sharp, and very, very good blacks. If you have the money to spend recklessly, it is a television you would not regret buying. However, I am sure there are more practical alternatives, but it's still a kicking rad set. I love having friends at Circuit City.
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Mar 26, 2007 17:48
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Taco Avenger posted:My parents are looking to buy a new TV within the next week. They want something around 50" or higher, but won't spend over $4000. My mother hates CRTs, and so they want plasma or lcd. What do you guys suggest? I've been reading the thread but I almost feel like I have too much information now. What brands/models/etc. would you guys pick if you had 4000 to spend and wanted a pretty large flat panel? Do they hate all rear-projectors and CRTs? Or are they dead set on a flat panel? If their only doing flat panels with $4000, I would buy a Pioneer plasma. Edit: If they don't mind rear-projection units, I would suggest the Sony SXRD LCoS television. Edit2: Pioneer plasma that goes into that price range: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069733_311066721,00.html Sony SXRD: http://www.sonystyle.com/is-bin/INT...ction_42to51TVs Donkey Kunt fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Mar 27, 2007 |
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Mar 27, 2007 03:18
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Taco Avenger posted:My mom seems pretty dead set against rear-projection. She thinks they're ugly as hell. I want her to be happy with what she gets, because I know she's going to be living with what she buys. But I also think that the picture and longevity of the TV is more important than looks. Pretty much all flat panels that are 720p will actually be 768. The Pioneer I linked to is also the square pixels that you would find in any other set. King Hotpants posted:LCoS. Liquid Crystal on Silicon. Not that stupid website. I was wondering why it looked so wrong.
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Mar 27, 2007 03:23
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Taco Avenger posted:Would you buy that Pioneer? I saw a couple today and I was pretty impressed by the picture. If your mother is willing to pay up to $4,000, that is really the best your going to get in that price range with a flat panel. If I had that money and the want for 50" screen and a flat panel, I would go for that.
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Mar 27, 2007 03:30
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Taco Avenger posted:Alright, let me put it this way then. If you had $4,000 to spend on a TV, what would you spend it on? What I would buy? I would probably buy an LCD because they're more portable. I usually do little LAN games or watch movies elsewhere with my 26". This is the new Samsung that has the high contrast ratio. I tried it out on the 360 with component cables at 1080p at Circuit City. However, I doubt your mother would be in the same boat. LNT65F http://samsung.com/Products/TV/LCDTV/LNT4065FXXAA.asp If I was to buy a home theater kind of thing, I would buy the Sony SXRD. It has a high contrast ratio. Excellent response time. The screen is pretty nice that I don't see any problems with it. Also, with Verizon FiOS television, the SD content comes out as nice as it's going to get. It's a television I got to try out Blu-Ray at 1080p off of the PS3, and a bunch of XBox 360 games. A friend owns it, so I get to play games on it every now and than. It's probably my favorite television overall. Like all televisions, when you adjust the screen properly by using something like Avia, it looks amazing. And if I really wanted a home theater that was a flat panel, I would no doubt go for the Pioneer I listed. As long as everything is set at 720p, it will upscale to 768p with no noticeable issues. As far as things go, it's an amazing set. Good blacks, good screen, good colors, and everything else. If I was your mother and I bought that television this week, I would not regret the purchase. Quick edit: Bozart posted:I am in the same situation as your mother. Right now I am looking at either the Pioneer that the good goon mentioned above, or the Sony XBR2. Then there is that new Samsung with the crazy contrast, but I decided against it because of the supposed glare. The new 50" crazy-super LCDs that Samsung has are over $4,000. At least I think they are. At that price, it would just be smarter to go for the plasma.
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Mar 27, 2007 04:04
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The Catalyst posted:The 30"-40" Samsung LCDs are absolutely stunning when run through a good source and calibrated correctly. Another thing to consider is that you really don't need a 1080p set if you're getting something smaller than a 50" set, get a 1080i and save yourself some scratch. Your eyes won't able to see the difference if you're sitting more than 5 to 8 feet away from set anyhow. If you're talking about LCDs, they show 720p, not 1080i. You would get 1080i from an analog display such as a CRT. All LCDs are 720p, they accept 1080i signals and then downconverts them to 720p. Edit: I'm going to be clarifying that as it was poorly written. I hope this is better worded. LCDs are not 1080i native. That resolution is something you would find on ab HD CRT. As was said, you would be spending more money than needed at that size if you were to buy a 1080p LCD. An LCD HDTV would either show 720p, or 1080p as the native picture. LCDs are capable of receiving a 1080i signal and scaling that image down to its native resolution which is a progressive picture. Donkey Kunt fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Mar 30, 2007 |
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Mar 29, 2007 22:21
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.Nathan. posted:I think what he's trying to say is that LCDs can't be natively 1080i. They can accept 1080i just fine and then convert it to their native resolution. LCDs certainly aren't all 720p, not sure why the gently caress anyone would think that. In my original reply, I quoted this: quote:Another thing to consider is that you really don't need a 1080p set if you're getting something smaller than a 50" set, get a 1080i and save yourself some scratch. I assumed he was referring to 720p (or 768p) because it was about LCDs, and it was already said that at that size you don't need 1080p. As you said that may have been a bit unclear in my post that LCDs are not native to 1080i. So what the poster that I quoted said was to go for a 1080i set instead of a 1080p set. Of course, I mistyped and said all LCDs are 720p when I meant to say all LCDs are not 1080i native. I'm going to be clarifying that in the post.
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Mar 30, 2007 01:33
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Eyecannon posted:I'm looking to replace my older Sony WEGA RPLCD 42" with something that can do 1080p on the inputs, is bigger, has an actual 1080 line chip, and isn't DLP (rainbow effect kills me). I have only seen the 50" version in use for movies and games, but it looks great.
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Mar 30, 2007 01:40
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pickitup13, you really don't have to worry about it. Though it scales up, it is so minor you wouldn't even notice the stretching. The only time you will get the bars if the wire (VGA for example) is capable of mapping the pixels 1:1. The aspect ratio difference is so minor that I will do it mathematically. 720p set 1280/720=1.77778 768p 1366/768=1.77865 The pixel/ratio difference is in the thousandths. The TV you suggested is fine. If you have another $100, I would suggest the one ilikegrapejuice suggested because of quality purposes. maverick99 posted:I'm looking at a Samsung monitor right now and it says the contrast ratio is 800:1 (DCR 3000:1). My question is what is DCR and will I even use it? DCR is dynamic contrast ratio. I can't explain it, so here is an excerpt from wikipedia article on contrast ratio. wiki posted:Thus the ratio of the luminosity of the brightest and the darkest color the system is capable of producing simultaneously at any instant of time is called static contrast ratio, while the ratio of the luminosity of the brightest and the darkest color the system is capable of producing over time is called dynamic contrast ratio.
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Mar 30, 2007 20:20
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Wookiee BBQ posted:http://tinyurl.com/2jy37k So I'm looking at the HDMI 1.3 resource page: http://www.hdmi.org/resourcecenter/index.asp It says it supports 30, 36, and 48-bit color depth. What television possibly has that? Even the OLEDs that Sony showed off at CES 2007 was only 10-bit color.  What TV exactly has that feature?
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Apr 13, 2007 04:46
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Verizon finally released a channel lineup for my neighborhood as we'll be receiving FiOS in a few months. It has all the channels from Comcast and others that I want. However, I prefer not to rent out the set-top box. How much does the box cost to buy for keeps? As an alternative, when does CableCard 2.0 come out? Jizzle Drizzle posted:Would anyone be able to recommend a HD set for me? I have a Samsung LN-S 26". They have recently been phased out for the LN-T series. The price I paid for the LN-S had a decent SDTV scaler for the price. However, everything was connected via component and if possible it was running in a progressive image (DVD player, the few times a friend used a Wii on it via component). Even with component, PS2 would look like rear end in some games because the textures are just low and usually interlaced. A $500 set at 26" would probably be a budget brand that would be a bit below the name brand in quality. If you can throw $300 more at the problem, Amazon has what appears to be a great deal on their latest LCD television at that price. It's the newer model of my television. Anything below $800, I cannot really give a solid selection. But as just a suggestion http://tinyurl.com/2vvsyn
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Apr 14, 2007 21:25
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So has anyone gotten to use the new LED DLPs from Samsung? http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-HL-T5...2&s=electronics I haven't seen it on that website, but I think I read somewhere it has a 16 microsecond response rate? Overall, it sounds like a neat innovation to rear projection DLP. I think it was the Texas Instrument DLP website, but it said that it had a bulb lifespan of 60,000 hours. Seems very energy efficient with less moving parts. The set hasn't arrived at Circuit City yet, so I haven't gotten to toy with it with my friend who works there. Anything new and exciting to come out of it?
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Apr 16, 2007 03:01
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SkaWes posted:I have not heard of this type of TV before, but if it eliminates the problem with the rainbow effect then it seems like it solves the one major drawbacks of DLP sets. http://www.dlp.com/hdtv/led_hdtvs.aspx?strt=t&ct=633122629255838420&strt=t&gd=4475c9b0-2f14-442d-bef3-2952e305b381 That's the official website, and it doesn't look like it was updated. It has last year's LED DLP TVs, and according to some websites (Google DLP LED), the Samsung on that page was $4,000. According to Samsung's website, this year's 61" LED DLP is $3,000. Huge price drop from what appears to be a prototype of sorts. I'm trying to find where I read it, but I swear one website said that these LEDs eliminates the rainbow effect. However, because the 2007 LED DLP TVs were just recently released, it doesn't have much information about them. All the information I can find is on the HL-S model from last year.
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Apr 16, 2007 03:48
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SkaWes posted:I would be hard pressed to buy a $3000 dollar TV that I don't know anything about, no matter how good the claims, without hearing some reviews from people that have bought it. However I do have to say that those are some sharp looking sets they have on that website. The 50" sets are around $2,000. Seems pretty comparable to the Sony SXRD LCoS displays. However, I have no intention of buying anything, but it is a neat to hear the few issues I had with DLP are being cleared up with this new technology. In 2008, I thought about picking up a rear-projection set (I just like rear-projection sets when we get to 46" and up), and if these new DLPs are able to compete with Sony's new SXRDs that have yet to be released, I would put these in my most wanted. Until the summer of '08, I'm going to rock out with my small time LCD 
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Apr 16, 2007 06:36
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Anyone with plasma can answer this? My father bought a 3LCD Sony rear-projector recently, and it's already crapping out. Along with some blacks and motion issues, my father is going to exchange it. He doesn't want to pay for a new bulb when it burns out (he just didn't believe me about that until after he bought it), and so he's going to pick up a flat panel such as a plasma or LCD. I'm suggesting to him to go for a plasma, but since I don't know much about plasmas, I'm going to need to ask some questions. 1) How is the side-viewing of plasmas? Since he's in the kitchen a lot (neighboring room), he usually looks at the TV from the side. He didn't like this with the rear-projector, so this is important. 2) The room it will be in will have sun come in every so often. Since plasmas have glare issues, what can be done to fix that? Are the anti-glare protection on some models an improvement? How does it work? 3) I was suggesting to him to purchase a Panasonic plasma since it seems to be the consensus on this thread that it goes Pioneer, Panasonic, Samsung for plasmas. Since Pioneer would be out of his price range, I suggested Panasonic. For whatever reason he doesn't like that brand. He also doesn't like Samsung because the CRT TVs he had from them were usually pretty bad in comparison to other brands, so he doesn't want to do that with another TV from them. Is there any plasma brand that's just as good? Is there any reviews explaining the qualities of Panasonic plasmas over another brand? SkaWes posted:i have seen some hate for Sony in here, but I was at my cousins house last night and he had one of the SXRD's and WOW it looked pretty loving good. I don't remember what size it was, but I know it [NOTE: I AM TOO STUPID TO SPELL THE WORD "DEFINITELY" CORRECTLY] wasn't the largest size they make for that model. However the picture looked pretty loving excellent, anyone else have any experience with these? I really like the set. A friend of mine has the 50" model from 2006, and it's really nice. The TV is in a pretty square room, so it is just viewing from the front and do not need to worry about the poor side view it has. Of 2006 TVs, it was overall my favorite. I like rear-projection sets, minus LCD projections, so I have a bit of a bias towards them in preference. However, the only drawback I feel with it is that eventually you do have to change the bulb. That's why I'm really looking forward to seeing how the new LED DLP from Samsung turns out. But seriously, it's a nice TV if you can find it cheap. Since it has been out for almost a year, I'm sure you can find it on sale at places. Otherwise, I think the market retail price is around the same as what the new LED DLPs are. drat, I want to try out the new DLPs, but my friend's store hasn't received any yet  edit: .Nathan. posted:They're by far the best rear projection set, but that's still like having the best form of cancer. If the lack of viewing angle, depth, shimmering screen, etc. doesn't bother you, then they're good sets from a price/image size standpoint. What do you mean by shimmering screen?
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Apr 20, 2007 16:00
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Speaking of plasmas, when will they become compatible with CableCard 2.0?
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Apr 21, 2007 22:48
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Blinkz0rz posted:My parents are looking for a 25-37" flat screen HDTV for their bedroom. They plan to mount it on a wall and pretty much only run cable through it. The hitch is that because space is a premium they want the unit to have a slot loading DVD player. It would be a huge bonus if the DVD player could play divx/xvid but not essential at all. I've looked around and noticed that Toshiba makes a 32" LCD (REGZA 32LV67) and that Westinghouse makes a 37" one but I have no point of comparison on quality or other features that are a plus. Can anyone help? Toshiba Regza are a much higher quality than any Westinghouse I have seen. Plus their slot loading DVD isn't that bad.
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Apr 22, 2007 19:39
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If you don't mind that it is a CRT and an analog device, it's an excellent TV. A friend of mine has it and we played some XBox 360 on it. Picture was great and everything. I can't really see the interlace image on the 1080i, so it doesn't look bad at all. Also, it can do 480i natively, so it can switch between standard definition and high definition with no problem. Just make sure you have the right cables for it. My friend thought composite cable would look just as good as component, he was very wrong.
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Apr 22, 2007 21:31
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The SXRD is a good choice. Best projector on the market, but as you said if the price seems too much, it may be best to not buy one now. I would buy a billion TVs, but it isn't a necessity. Good for you for knowing when to not be stupid.
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Apr 23, 2007 04:39
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Monitor help In the summer, I plan on buying a new computer. My friend who does networking at Verizon loves building computers. Smartest friend I know when it comes to computer technology. Chances are I am going to have him build a computer for me, unless Dell offers a great deal. Seeing how I already have a case, keyboard, mouse, and some cooling units, it will probably be him. The only thing I know I will be lacking is a monitor. I use a laptop now, and I don't plan on using my LCD TV as a monitor. This computer will not be some super gaming computer or anything. I'm going for a pretty low budget line of around $600 for the desktop. Where I plan to place it will be where my laptop is now. I will be roughly two feet away from the monitor. Because it will be so close, I do not and prefer not to have a large monitor. My current monitor is a 4:3 15" and it feels pretty big from my sitting distance. I would like a widescreen LCD monitor of around the same size. Doesn't have to be amazing or the best, but I would like it to have a 16:10 aspect ratio and decent to read websites and play the occasional Windows 98 game. Any suggestions? Edit: Looking at NewEgg, there is a category that says Windows Vista Certified, I guess I would want that too? Sorry if this is in the wrong thread, I assumed monitors are similar to HDTVs. Update on my father's broken Sony Grand Wega 3LCD So my father traded the Sony 3LCD 46" in for a Panasonic TH-42something, the newer one with the even newer anti glare crazy coating! There were no 46" sizes, so he went for the 42". In fact, when he bought the 3LCD, he didn't really realize widescreen meant a widescreen. So the few inches it cuts down on is great for him as he has a lot of antiques, paintings, vases, plants, and other expensive things that need space. It is on a TV stand because there is literally no wall space (behind and above the TV is about $10,000 worth of paintings and picture frames, and there are only three paintings). It looks very nice in the room, and the picture quality looks good. I haven't adjusted the picture settings with Avia, yet. When I do that after the "breaking in" period in a day or two, I'll post impressions. Edit: I for some reason thought it was the PX 77u when it isn't. I'm not sure what it is Donkey Kunt fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Apr 25, 2007 |
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Apr 23, 2007 21:17
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During the weekend, I decided to take some time to calibrate my father's new Panasonic plasma 42" that he exchanged his semi-broken Sony 3LCD for. Earlier in the thread, I said it was a 77u. I meant 600u. I said 77u because I just remember it being a big number on that year's model. Anyway, I set it up with Avia, connected some Sony upconverting DVD player with HDMI, and connected the Verizon FiOS HD box. It looks great, the picture comes out really nicely. I played around with it, and image retention didn't seem to be there either (but didn't play long enough to really experience). Overall, it seems to be an excellent TV.
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Apr 30, 2007 05:05
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I have the 26" model from last year, and it receives 1080i content just fine, I would imagine the same would be true about this year's model.
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Apr 30, 2007 17:48
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Bum the Sad posted:also quick question. Do component cables(the red blue green video only cables) carry a true 720i HD signal? There is no such thing as 720i, but I assume you mean 720p. Component would be able to carry that, however, since it is a CRT, you're going to want to set devices at 1080i. That's what it is native too. A friend has the same CRT, and it's good. However, the weight and distribution of is a bitch.
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May 3, 2007 23:45
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Bum the Sad posted:Ok apparently my mother decided she didn't want a giant rear end CRT and now decided she wants to spend more money and get a flat panel. Excellent LCD.
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May 6, 2007 04:27
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DaddyBigBucks posted:I was thinking about buying a 26 inch LCD HDTV television for my room. However, I am confused by the prices I see between these 3 Samsung choices. The LNS is the 2006 model. The LNT is the 2007 model. The difference between the LNTs is the difference in contrast ratio.
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May 6, 2007 19:55
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I wanted to do a search on the topic, but the search option is currently unaccessible. I'm unsure if this would go in this thread or not, but it's a question about display devices. I plan on buying a new monitor for my computer, however, computer connections confuse the hell out of me. The monitor is a Dell 2007WFP. I believe the input is DVI-D, but my computer outputs DVI-I. I want to know if that monitor does have a DVI-D input, would it be 100% compatible with a DVI-I output?
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Jun 10, 2007 02:01
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I need a 7 pin s-video cable. However, the cable I bought from monoprice.com was a 4 pin, and I do not see any 7 pins listed. Can anyone lead me in the right direction?
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Aug 12, 2007 19:27
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butterypancakes posted:is it for an ATI video card? try AMD's website It's a nVidia video card.
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Aug 12, 2007 23:55
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