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88h88 posted:FTFY. I'm fully aware of that. I'm fine if the sound is noticeably better than the one from my TV.
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Nov 9, 2015 15:48
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Is there a particular reason you don't want a pair of bookshelf speakers? Sound bars are a scam, as far as I'm concerned.
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Nov 9, 2015 17:55
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How are they a scam? I can think of a few good reasons why you would want a soundbar. If you don't have the need or space for an AV receiver. If you aren't a sperg and just want a little bit of an upgrade from the integrated TV speakers.
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Nov 9, 2015 18:03
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BANME.sh posted:How are they a scam? I can think of a few good reasons why you would want a soundbar. If you don't have the need or space for an AV receiver. If you aren't a sperg and just want a little bit of an upgrade from the integrated TV speakers. Mostly because they cost many times what they're worth. Even a crap soundbar is ~$200, and the ones you see recommended for actually sounding decent are often more than a grand. You can get a pair of bookshelf speakers and a T-amp that will crush just about any soundbar out there for $150-200. You're paying a lot of money for the form factor. KillHour fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 18:53
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Soundbars are definitely convenient considering they have a remote and are pretty stupidly simple to setup but it's also true that they sound like absolute poo poo most of the time. Physics are physics and sound bars run into horrendous amounts of comb filtering. Which means you're going to have really inconsistent frequency response. Most sound bars run into dialogue being completely unintelligent once there are sound effects going on. Anything with a tweeter over a woofer with proper separation between left and right cabinets is worlds better than a soundbar
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Nov 9, 2015 21:28
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The aforementioned Yamaha sound bars are probably the only ones to get rid of the comb filtering, but they're rather expensive. Get a cheap set of stereo speakers and a small amp with a remote control. I guarantee it'll beat any soundbar ever made. Horizontal speakers just don't work. Yes, that includes most center speakers as well.
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Nov 9, 2015 21:48
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Depending on the TV he's using, he may just be able to use the TV's volume control to change the volume with an external power amp. busfahrer, I know you said you specifically want a soundbar, but there's a reason we try to push people away from them - they're a really, really bad value, and they probably won't sound much better than your TV's speakers for a reasonable amount of money. Is this just an aesthetics thing? KillHour fucked around with this message at 23:56 on Nov 9, 2015 |
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Nov 9, 2015 23:52
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KillHour posted:Depending on the TV he's using, he may just be able to use the TV's volume control to change the volume with an external power amp. It's kind of a crap shoot on the tvs analog out operating as a preamp. I feel it's more an exception than a rule.
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Nov 10, 2015 04:06
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Speaking of bookshelf speakers, anyone have any recommendations for any attractive and good stands to put on top of an IKEA BESTA shelf unit? I would honestly prefer using floorstanding speakers instead for aesthetic reasons, but then the tweeters would be too tall.
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Nov 10, 2015 04:11
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coolskillrex remix posted:It's kind of a crap shoot on the tvs analog out operating as a preamp. I feel it's more an exception than a rule. It's probably 50/50, but the vast majority of TVs have a headphone out.
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Nov 10, 2015 04:53
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So can I get some recommendations for a multimedia player device to mostly play video and music from a memory stick, but also maybe from DVDs and CDs? Don't care if it has speakers, although I'm interested in all options? I'm looking for a solid performer, but doesn't have to be absolutely top of the line. I'm kind of interested to see what other brands are out there that I haven't been exposed to.
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Nov 27, 2015 03:51
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SnakePlissken posted:So can I get some recommendations for a multimedia player device to mostly play video and music from a memory stick, but also maybe from DVDs and CDs? Don't care if it has speakers, although I'm interested in all options? I'm looking for a solid performer, but doesn't have to be absolutely top of the line. I'm kind of interested to see what other brands are out there that I haven't been exposed to. You mean like a Sony Bluray player? Or Apex makes little DVD players, some of them also play 
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Nov 27, 2015 05:09
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wormil posted:You mean like a Sony Bluray player? Or Apex makes little DVD players, some of them also play Well, how about devices that mainly play from a usb stick? Either audio or A/V or both? I'm seeing a lot of dodgy stuff, just wondering if there are some good ones in there too.
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Nov 27, 2015 19:27
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SnakePlissken posted:Well, how about devices that mainly play from a usb stick? Either audio or A/V or both? I'm seeing a lot of dodgy stuff, just wondering if there are some good ones in there too. Most TVs do that already. You could also get something like WDTV or Apple TV. Or you could spring for a HTPC. I'm not sure I understand what you're looking for. Playing from USB is bog standard, pretty much everything does it.
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Nov 28, 2015 10:00
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Yeah most blu-ray players play a lot of stuff off USB, my Sony 5500 does but none of them are guaranteed to play the codec/container of the week. And there's really no such thing as a primarily USB player, they tend to be network or disc players with USB support.
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Nov 29, 2015 19:10
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Philips makes (made?) a little USB player box with an HDMI output.
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Nov 29, 2015 19:34
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I've moved into a house that is wired for sound, and it's time to upgrade the old Onkyo receiver (which is dying anyways.) Most rooms (5) in my house have: 2 speakers 1 volume knob My living room has: 4 speakers (RF, RR, LF, LR) A wall panel with a whole lot of speaker inputs (Banana plugs) No volume knob (it relies on the amp/receiver for it's volume level) Center Speaker + Subwoofer (not wall mounted) I need to buy a new receiver, since I now have more than the 4 HDMI inputs my Onkyo has (and it was dying anyways). I don't know what types of equipment I need to buy. I know I'll need a new receiver, but as for amps to drive all the wall speakers around, I'm at a bit of a loss. I use the speakers primarily to play Spotify, but I also watch movies and play games. Ideally:
To do 1 & 2, I know I'll need a multi-zone receiver (and then I'll need to figure out how to set up multi-zone audio). 3 seems like it will require an additional piece of equipment, since I probably don't want to try to power 12 speakers off of two outputs on my receiver. I have no idea what this piece of equipment is called or how to determine whether it's good. For 4, I suspect that's going to be a feature on some receivers, but if anyone has any recommendations, I'm all ears. I've got a budget of approximately $1000 to get this set up. edit: It seems like the combination of these two things might fit the bill? http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V679BL-7-2-Channel-MusicCast-Bluetooth/dp/B00VIRG3GO http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-MA1240a-Multi-Zone-Amplifier/dp/B003DKVZHQ Pfhreak fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 29, 2015 |
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Nov 29, 2015 21:37
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If the room speakers have volume knobs, I might assume they are using powered speakers and all you might need to do is feed them a line level signal. But I don't know.
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Nov 29, 2015 22:27
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BANME.sh posted:If the room speakers have volume knobs, I might assume they are using powered speakers and all you might need to do is feed them a line level signal. But I don't know. I'd say this is unlikely, due to the banana plugs in the lounge room. The wall volume control is probably just a fairly beefy series variable resistor. But again, I can't know this for sure. Pfhreak posted:Sensible stuff... If it was me, I'd use a program like J River Media Center, a sixteen or twenty four channel soundcard and a distribution amp like in your second amazon link. It'd cost about the same, but won't be any good for games. This would let me treat each room as a separate zone, and allow devices in those rooms to control their zone independently as well as allowing a master device to control all the zones at once, and also act as a media server. This is starting to get pretty complex though. To do your remote control, you could install IR repeaters throughout the house and carry around your receiver's remote, if your receiver doesn't have a network interface. The Dayton distribution amp is a good choice for running the rest of the house. Both the amps you posted have 12v triggers, so turning on the receiver will turn on the distribution amp, if you want it to. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Nov 30, 2015 |
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Nov 30, 2015 07:45
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If anyone's looking for a new receiver and you're a Spotify user, having it built into your receiver really owns. I walk in my apartment, phone connects to wifi and I just hit my Denon reciever and pick off right where I left off. It just turns itself on, no fiddling with the remote. Not really sure if this belongs in the thread or not but I'm really loving my S910W.
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Dec 4, 2015 01:21
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I've have a Sony STR DG720 with 5 Klipsch Quintet speakers and a Polk sub, about 7 years old. I finally got around to setting it all up in my new apartment, and I can hear a high pitched hum from the speakers. I've disconnected all the AV inputs, tried different wall outlets, and nothing is getting rid of this hum. It's slight, and doesn't change with the volume, but once all 5 speakers are connected the noise is noticible and annoying. Is the receiver bad or is there something I'm overlooking?
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Dec 7, 2015 02:00
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LmaoTheKid posted:If anyone's looking for a new receiver and you're a Spotify user, having it built into your receiver really owns. A chromecast will also do this. (and probably fire sticks too?)
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Dec 7, 2015 02:59
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Neptr posted:I've have a Sony STR DG720 with 5 Klipsch Quintet speakers and a Polk sub, about 7 years old. I finally got around to setting it all up in my new apartment, and I can hear a high pitched hum from the speakers. I've disconnected all the AV inputs, tried different wall outlets, and nothing is getting rid of this hum. It's slight, and doesn't change with the volume, but once all 5 speakers are connected the noise is noticible and annoying. Is the receiver bad or is there something I'm overlooking? There's a few more troubleshooting things you can do. Pick the amp up and rotate it around all angles, does the noise change? If so you're picking up RF interference. Unplug all the other electrical items in the house to rule them out. Finally, try the amp at someone else's house.
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Dec 7, 2015 03:27
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Is there an SA thread for vintage audio gear? SA-Tapeheads?
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Dec 7, 2015 21:54
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Shaocaholica posted:Is there an SA thread for vintage audio gear? SA-Tapeheads? Did you attempt scrolling down a little? http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3021252
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Dec 7, 2015 21:58
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Endless Mike posted:Did you attempt scrolling down a little? Haha thanks! Forums just look like a wall of text to me.
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Dec 7, 2015 22:00
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edit: Totally posted this in the wrong thread. Too many tabs open.
the Gaffe fucked around with this message at 06:58 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 06:53
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I finally got around to playing with the EQ in my Driverack PX DSP crossover/box o' tricks, in order to even out the bass response. Using a frequency sweep video, I determined dips in response at 60Hz, 80Hz and 105Hz and a peak that needed to be tamed at 125Hz, all of them with a roughly 10-15Hz bandwidth. After brushing up on parametric EQs, I dialed in the settings, and got as close to even response as I am probably going to get. Two of the boosts are +9dB and +8dB, because my room sucks, and I have very few options for sub placement. After doing that, I had to turn down the volume on the subs by ~10% because of the better overall bass response. I kinda consider that a success. But I wonder whether that +9dB boost risks the sub amps running out of power, they're only 120W RMS after all. Perhaps I should dig out the measurement mic and see what the RTA says about my room.
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Dec 8, 2015 23:38
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Cool, I've been wanting to do the same with mine, but figured it was a waste of time without room treatment. How did you determine nonlinearities? Just seat of the pants method? There's a couple of ways to determine whether your amp is clipping; chuck an oscilloscope on there and watch it clip, or turn it up till you hear it clip and never go that loud again. Alternatively put some numbers into the Amplifier Power Required calculator on this site to get a ballpark idea of when it should clip. Ooh, found another way. quote:One way to tell when clipping occurs is with a peak detector - a 1N4007 diode feeding a 1uF cap, and reading the output voltage as DC. Keep turning up the volume slowly, and when the reading quits rising you've reached the clip point. With a single tone, you'll hear the distortion immedialtely at the clip point, but with real program material you can push pretty far into clip before you even notice it - especially with subs. http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?210301-How-to-tell-if-Amp-is-clipping Just for fun, I plugged some numbers into the calculator, 3m from source, 101dbSPL desired level (so 92db in reality?), sensitivity of 90db 1w/1m, with no headroom and it needed 113w. Given hearing loss may occur during sustained exposure to 90-95dbspl, and you've got more than one, those amps are probably right in the sweet spot. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Dec 9, 2015 |
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Dec 9, 2015 02:50
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Waldo P Barnstormer posted:Cool, I've been wanting to do the same with mine, but figured it was a waste of time without room treatment. How did you determine nonlinearities? Just seat of the pants method? I used this Youtube video of a frequency sweep: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-iCZElJ8m0 Mostly by the seat of my pants, if I could hear a dip centered around 60Hz and it seemed to be roughly 10Hz wide, I added a 6dB boost and tried listening to it again. The Driverack PX is a bit limited and only has a five-band parametric EQ, two bands for the subs and three for the tops, but it's OK for my needs. There's a dual 28-band graphic EQ too, but I don't really like using those. To figure out the Q setting on the parametric EQ, I used this formula for a 10Hz bandwidth centered on 60Hz: 60/(65-55) = 6, so I used 5.71, which is the closest setting the Driverack PX lets me choose and ends up being 10.5Hz wide instead. It's not perfect by any means, but it give me acceptable response at 60Hz and 80Hz, and I can definitely tell that something was missing before if I switch the EQ on and off now, the bass sounds more full now. quote:Just for fun, I plugged some numbers into the calculator, 3m from source, 101dbSPL desired level (so 92db in reality?), sensitivity of 90db 1w/1m, with no headroom and it needed 113w. Given hearing loss may occur during sustained exposure to 90-95dbspl, and you've got more than one, those amps are probably right in the sweet spot. Yeah, but that's the output at the speaker, not in a room with dips and peaks. To even out a dip, the sub needs to put out more sound at that frequency, actually 10 times more for a 9dB boost. On the other hand, it's a very narrow 10Hz boost, so it would probably only be problematic if you hit a strong sustained note right at that frequency. Maybe I'll cut it down to +6dB instead so it only takes 5 times the usual power. It's probably fine for now, but I think I'll keep an eye out for deals on similar subs with better amps, or maybe some new plate amps for these subs, since the boxes and drivers are pretty beefy. KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 10:16 on Dec 9, 2015 |
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Dec 9, 2015 10:10
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Nice. I thought to do it that way, but I should probably get more than 50w on my sub amp first!KozmoNaut posted:Yeah, but that's the output at the speaker, not in a room with dips and peaks. To even out a dip, the sub needs to put out more sound at that frequency, actually 10 times more for a 9dB boost. On the other hand, it's a very narrow 10Hz boost, so it would probably only be problematic if you hit a strong sustained note right at that frequency. Maybe I'll cut it down to +6dB instead so it only takes 5 times the usual power. I don't think I explained what I did very well, but I took that into account. I plugged in a desired level of 101db, because at your 60Hz dip, when you take 9db off it, you get 92db and that's still as loud as a busy factory or a truck without a muffler. Would be interesting to get an spl meter out and see what your favourite volume is. I daresay it's a fair bit quieter than 92db, so your power requirements would be even less. It's really pretty amazing just how little power you need to get comfortably loud, even with fairly insensitive speakers. Edit: Also, you mentioned you have two (or three) subs and amps? That immediately halves each amp's power requirement to reach the same level (or doubles your available power, however you choose to look at it). A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 11:52 on Dec 9, 2015 |
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Dec 9, 2015 11:47
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Right, now I understand, that's a good point  The subs are specced as 112dB maximum output each, but I don't know if that's corner-loaded or not. I have both subs located against walls, but not in corners. Waldo P Barnstormer posted:Would be interesting to get an spl meter out and see what your favourite volume is. I daresay it's a fair bit quieter than 92db, so your power requirements would be even less. It's really pretty amazing just how little power you need to get comfortably loud, even with fairly insensitive speakers. Considering I go to 4-5 metal and rock concerts every month, my preferred volume level is roughly "WHAT?!" (Not really, I always use earplugs) E: There are currently a couple more subs of the same model for sale close by. Four 12" subs in a 18m^2 room is a appropriate amount, isn't it? KozmoNaut fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Dec 9, 2015 |
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Dec 9, 2015 12:39
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I hear a sub in each of the 8 corners does amazing things for room modes.
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Dec 9, 2015 12:49
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12 corners. The room is L-shaped.
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Dec 9, 2015 12:52
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My room is actually inside a massive horn sub. There's no point arranging the furniture as when I'm listening to music it tends to just arrange itself wherever...
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Dec 9, 2015 13:35
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I'll be moving shortly to a(nother) New York City cubby hole. I need a solution for living room audio. It'll be a pretty even split between TV and movies, video games, and music. Anyone have suggestions for the $150-200 range?
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Dec 13, 2015 05:17
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It's difficult to say without knowing how loud you like to listen, if you'll have noisy neighbours or like to entertain guests, but I'm tempted to suggest a pair of wireless, noise cancelling headphones and a buttkicker or similar tactile transducer. Otherwise I'd just get a second hand stereo receiver/integrated amplifier and decent set of bookshelf speakers or a set of active monitors that I could add a subwoofer to later if I wanted to.
A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Dec 13, 2015 |
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Dec 13, 2015 06:54
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Yeah, the second option is what I was thinking. Definitely will have people over regularly but I can't imagine I'll be playing music at any volume remotely considered loud. I was thinking about one of the pairs of M-Audio monitors to be honest, or a $200 Yamaha/Sony stereo receiver and some speakers. I have had a pair of AV-40s as my PC speakers for 8 years and they're great for music and passable for sound effects, maybe just a bit on the loud side.
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Dec 13, 2015 07:39
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I have the passive version of these and I like them http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-B2031A-BEHRINGER-TRUTH/dp/B0002MRCLQ Edit: Whoops, that price is per speaker, so out of your range, but I got my pair for AU$150 second hand. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Dec 13, 2015 |
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Dec 13, 2015 08:34
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The bookshelf Andrew Jones Pioneers are cheap and sound great in my apartment in this city of ours.
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Dec 13, 2015 09:07
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