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They look like Audioengine A2+ ripoffs, honestly. No idea how they sound.
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Aug 13, 2016 16:25
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Yeah, I was also looking at the A2+, but they're over my budget right now in canada. Reviews for the YU2 seemed decent enough, and I like that it has a sub out, probably won't make much of a difference, but I like having the option.
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Aug 13, 2016 19:32
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Kantos are pretty well regarded, they're a Canadian company so their stuff is going to always be cheaper that Audioengine up north.
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Aug 14, 2016 22:30
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I'm in a new place and don't have any audio gear anymore. I'll probably buy a receiver and some speakers for the TV but the onboard sound is actually not too awful and it's not like having a big booming sub in my unit would go down with my neighbours over the next year anyway. Instead I'm quite keen on picking up the Harman Kardon Onyx 3, as Amazon has them available much cheaper than retail (I've seen places like Sprint selling the Onyx 2 for around $120 too). The new one allows you to combine two together which seems neat, and according to some has a better battery life than previous. We have a pool here, as well as a nearby beach, so portably is definitely an added bonus even if it doesn't last forever and in those situations I wouldn't be blasting it due to not wanting to piss people off so would hope the battery life is respectable enough. Anyone have any experiences? I hear the sound quality for the series is generally very good.
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Aug 15, 2016 02:20
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I'd get a UE Boom over that. It's also waterproof which will be good if it's near water. The sound quality on it is really great too.
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Aug 18, 2016 15:36
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I'll take a look into that one too, thanks.
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Aug 18, 2016 18:06
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So my new Klipsch R-15PM monitors arrived and they're everything I hoped they would be. I'm just wondering about connectivity, they're connected via the bundled USB cable now, but I find particularly on system notifications and even when I first play a song if its not coming right after another one, you miss that first fraction of a second of audio. Should I use the optical connection instead? Analog? How will these affect quality if at all?
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Aug 26, 2016 20:28
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I have bad hearing, and I'm looking into a sound bar as a possible partial remedy to turning into my mother, asking my partner questions about what was just said every five minutes. I'm not incredibly persnickety but I do appreciate quality audio, so is there something I should look for or avoid in the 300-400ish range? I don't even mean, like, pick me a particular one, necessarily, but are there brands/features/marketing jargon to go for or steer clear of? Celery Jello fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Sep 8, 2016 |
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Sep 8, 2016 01:01
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I have this TV and it only has a digital optical audio cable out as far as I can tell which is a problem because my mom needs a headset due to her hearing going bad and the one we recently got that looked fine can only use a headset jack or red and white component cables. It also looks like it doesn't use LPCM which makes browsing on Amazon for a converter more of a pain than it should be, is there a converter that works for this or are we better off returning the headset and getting a different one that can plug directly into that outlet?
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Sep 10, 2016 20:42
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Ignatius M. Meen posted:I have this TV and it only has a digital optical audio cable out as far as I can tell which is a problem because my mom needs a headset due to her hearing going bad and the one we recently got that looked fine can only use a headset jack or red and white component cables. It also looks like it doesn't use LPCM which makes browsing on Amazon for a converter more of a pain than it should be, is there a converter that works for this or are we better off returning the headset and getting a different one that can plug directly into that outlet? The Fiio D3 is probably what you need. Cheap, solid, frequently recommended. FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009346RSS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Erg1xbN3JV13N
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Sep 10, 2016 20:53
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eddiewalker posted:The Fiio D3 is probably what you need. Cheap, solid, frequently recommended. It only does LPCM, though. The TV in question outputs LPCM for NTSC channels, but Dolby Digital for ATSC channels. So you probably want something like this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Tosl...lby+digital+dac
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Sep 10, 2016 21:09
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KozmoNaut posted:It only does LPCM, though. The TV in question outputs LPCM for NTSC channels, but Dolby Digital for ATSC channels. That looks good, thanks a ton!
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Sep 10, 2016 22:44
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Mo0 posted:I'm not incredibly persnickety but I do appreciate quality audio, so is there something I should look for or avoid in the 300-400ish range? Pick the same brand as your TV (for ease of installation) or Yamaha (for general quality). Make sure it has an input that matches the output in your TV and isn't lacking a remote or something silly like that.
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Sep 10, 2016 23:00
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Is there one specific "correct" playback sample rate for Windows? In case it matters, I'm using a Creative Titanium HD as my sound card and some Creative T20s (the original version) as speakers. Basically, I don't really know how playback sample rates work and which is the "right" choice for my speakers in Windows. I know that I can hear differences in the sound produced using "24 bit, 48000 Hz" and higher settings like 96 and 192 kHz, but those differences are things like the audio at 48 kHz sounding more digitally processed somehow (voices sound less natural, like there's a slight digitized effect from using a cheap voice recorder except not quite that pronounced) while making bass noticeably boomier, but setting it to 192 kHz makes it sound as if certain sounds might be too smoothed or like there might be slight muffling of certain frequencies, or like the sound has overly aggressive anti-aliasing applied to it. I don't know why there's a difference, but it seems to be there from my basic testing. I've been using 96 kHz pretty much since I got the Titanium HD because that's supposedly the "native" sample rate according to some user posts I read, and until this year I was on headphones and 96 kHz is the highest setting available using the "headphones" mode. Within the past year or two (before moving back to speakers), I started getting crackling at various times when using the same sample rate. It seems to fix itself if switched to a different sample rate (higher or lower, it seems), but if you switch back to 96 kHz and play the same sounds that caused the crackling in the first place then it does it again the majority of the time (although it still seems random when it will actually do it and when it won't). Please direct me elsewhere if this isn't the right place to ask about this stuff. It didn't look like there's a more appropriate thread. some dillweed fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 05:51
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This is probably the wrong place to ask. I reject the premise that you are hearing differences in these high sample rates. Just choose the one you like best.
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Sep 11, 2016 06:03
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Well, other than making a separate thread for it, I didn't see any other relevant threads to ask about it. Sorry to crap up the thread if it shouldn't be here. Maybe it's something caused by the extra processing of the sound card (like the "CMSS-3D" virtual surround in the Game mode), but there is a repeatable, noticeable difference when you change the sample rate setting. You can reject the premise in general if you want to, and it seems like increasing the sample rate shouldn't be noticeable for the vast majority of setups, but it still is changing the sound with this card. I noticed the same kinds of changes with the different sample rates on all of the headphones I used with it before. It might just be an issue with using the Game mode specifically, since that's all I've been using for a while. I haven't tested recently with either of the other two modes to see if I can hear any changes with them. But yeah, you're likely right that I should just choose whatever sounds best. I probably won't be reusing the sound card when I upgrade to newer hardware. The support for EAX in older games probably isn't worth carrying it over to another system if the general quality of integrated sound is essentially as good now, and it's just another piece of hardware that seems like it's causing issues with my setup. Late edit edit: Weeeeelllll, something still seems to eventually cause crackling at the higher sample rates, even with CMSS-3D off. That CMSS-3D also seems like it causes the audible differences between the sample rates, and with it off you can barely tell a difference. I'm going to try sticking to 48 kHz for now, then the Audio Creation mode, and if neither of those work without the crackling then this card's hardware is likely just defective or dying. Plenty of people seem to have problems with these Creative cards after as little as a year, so I probably shouldn't be surprised if it's having issues. some dillweed fucked around with this message at 08:40 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 11, 2016 07:28
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Sound sound cards have issues with certain sample rates, and as you said, maybe some processing only runs at some sample rates. The sound card simply may not have the processing power to do the calculations at 192kHz/24 bit precision. You should try testing again with all types of sound "enhancement" turned off, and hear if there's still any difference. Generally (barring lovely sound cards with issues at commonly used sample rates), you should set your sample rate according to the content you use the most. If you listen to a lot of music, odds are that 99.9% of it will be in 44.1kHz. On the other hand, if you watch a lot of movies, 48kHz is the most used standard.
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Sep 11, 2016 07:49
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I have: - An iPhone 5S (with a jack port, still) - A recorder with a jack port As well as: - Headphones with no mic - A dynamic mic with XLR - An amp with XLR and jack port If I want to record an iPhone call, what's the way to do it?
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Sep 15, 2016 11:09
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I have an originally desktop-purposed subwoofer connected to my TV via a 3.5mm cable with I assume a built in amp and it connects out to 2 little speakers with a single RCA cable each, my girlfriend has just given me a pair of speakers that used to belong to her father who is long dead and they have on the back of them each two terminals that look similar to this. How do I go about connecting those all up together to replace the small speakers? I understand vaguely that a receiver is a box that sits in the middle and one of the things it does is take cables in and give other cables out, but other than that I'm pretty rubbish at audio stuff, and a solution that doesn't involve my quick look at receiver prices would be awesome.
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Sep 15, 2016 13:18
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ufarn posted:I have: With software. there's apps for this. Metos posted:I have an originally desktop-purposed subwoofer connected to my TV via a 3.5mm cable with I assume a built in amp and it connects out to 2 little speakers with a single RCA cable each, my girlfriend has just given me a pair of speakers that used to belong to her father who is long dead and they have on the back of them each two terminals that look similar to this. How do I go about connecting those all up together to replace the small speakers? I wouldn't do this, but you can cut the rca ends off the speaker cables, strip the wires and shove them straight into the back of your new speakers.
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Sep 15, 2016 13:24
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Waldo P Barnstormer posted:I wouldn't do this, but you can cut the rca ends off the speaker cables, strip the wires and shove them straight into the back of your new speakers. I can probably handle having a hacky cable run behind the TV if there's no tiny receiver-like box that just does one set, but don't want to have a 'oh hey I blew up your dead dad's speakers' conversation if that's likely.
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Sep 16, 2016 02:22
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Metos posted:You wouldn't do it out of fear it will damage something? Or because its a hacky solution for terrible people? You won't blow anything up doing that but I'm assuming dad's speakers are full range and probably already have better bass than your 2.1 system. I'd move the 2.1 system into another room to play songs off a phone and spend ten bucks on an old integrated amp or stereo receiver from a flea market or cousin Beryl's shed and connect it to your tv with one of these. A Lone Girl Flier fucked around with this message at 03:25 on Sep 16, 2016 |
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Sep 16, 2016 03:15
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Waldo P Barnstormer posted:You won't blow anything up doing that but I'm assuming dad's speakers are full range and probably already have better bass than your 2.1 system. I'd move the 2.1 system into another room to play songs off a phone and spend ten bucks on an old integrated amp or stereo receiver from a flea market or cousin Beryl's shed and connect it to your tv with one of these.
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Sep 16, 2016 05:09
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Metos posted:my girlfriend has just given me a pair of speakers that used to belong to her father who is long dead and they have on the back of them each two terminals that look similar to this. Just out of curiosity, what speakers?
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Sep 16, 2016 21:47
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Has anyone had a soundbar die on them? I can't figure out if the soundbar is dead or the TV is being stupid. Connection is ARC over HDMI. I have my blu-ray player connected to the soundbar. I can still watch movies and hear via the TV's speakers.
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Sep 17, 2016 21:34
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Dr Tran posted:Has anyone had a soundbar die on them? Can you just aux-in to the sound bar from your (phone|mp3 player|whatever) to make sure its fundamentally working or not?
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Sep 17, 2016 21:52
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Hob_Gadling posted:Just out of curiosity, what speakers?
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Sep 23, 2016 01:29
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Any recommendations for bluetooth in-ear headphones? Upgraded to the iPhone 7, and now looking for some headphones.
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Sep 23, 2016 18:23
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I am upgrading my PC sound system to something that wasn't released 15 years ago. I want something with a woofer and I have money to spend, but I don't want to overspend. Any suggestions?
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Sep 23, 2016 22:13
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:I am upgrading my PC sound system to something that wasn't released 15 years ago. I want something with a woofer and I have money to spend, but I don't want to overspend. Any suggestions? What is your budget and how much time are you willing to put into setting it up? Even a system like this that costs ~$2000 could be considered "not overspending" if it hits everything you're looking for and fits in your budget. http://nadelectronics.com/products/hifi-amplifiers/C-326BEE-Stereo-Integrated-Amplifier http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/Speakers/Home_Audio/CM_Series/CM1-S2.html https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-12-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B000092TT0 https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4 KillHour fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Sep 23, 2016 |
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Sep 23, 2016 22:55
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Let's say 300 to 400.
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Sep 23, 2016 23:10
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Every person in this thread will probably recommend something different, but you could do a lot worse than this for dead in the middle of your budget. http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Powered-Speaker-Systems/A2-plus-Powered-Desktop-Speakers https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-10-Inch-Powered-Subwoofer/dp/B0002KVQBA
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Sep 23, 2016 23:12
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KillHour posted:Every person in this thread will probably recommend something different, but you could do a lot worse than this for dead in the middle of your budget. This would be a killer combo. The speakers by themselves are really great and do have a decent low end if your ears are attuned to them without a subwoofer, but they'd be perfect with one too. The one caveat is that you definitely need the angled speaker stands with them, otherwise they can sound kind of muffled on a desktop. The standard rubber ones cost $30 but you can easily make your own out of some cheap wood, using these dimensions (what I did with some scraps I had laying around) 
BANME.sh fucked around with this message at 23:23 on Sep 23, 2016 |
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Sep 23, 2016 23:20
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OneThousandMonkeys posted:I am upgrading my PC sound system to something that wasn't released 15 years ago. I want something with a woofer and I have money to spend, but I don't want to overspend. Any suggestions? Go to a hifi shop and listen to a $300 set, then listen to a $2000 set. Only then you'll know what is overspending and what is a waste.
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Sep 24, 2016 01:11
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My PC has a set of Craigslist Sony bookshelf speakers and a $20 eBay Lepai amp, and it's better than any set of PC component speakers I've ever owned, even those stupid Logitech THX ones that cost too much.
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Sep 24, 2016 06:22
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Secondhand these: https://www.storedj.com.au/products/YAM-HS8
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Sep 24, 2016 07:19
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I want to use wireless headphones so that two people can listen to the TV at night quietly. Is this possible? My TV supports LG Sound Sync and my Raspberry Pi running LibreElec supports Bluetooth but it looks like these only support one wireless device at a time? It all looks too hard, I just want to get goon confirmation before giving up.
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Oct 11, 2016 04:25
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You guys not have silent discos over there? There's events here which have 3 different DJs playing different tunes in a place where you can listen to any of them whenever you want. It's utterly weird as a spectator. They usually use RF tech though smaller home systems can use Bluetooth/IR... And you can just plug them into the headphone socket of your TV/receiver so as long as it's getting audio, so will the headphones. https://www.sdksales.co.uk/frequently-asked-questions quote:Can I use Over Ear wireless headphones to watch a film, TV, Netflix, Sky, DVD or Blue Ray?
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Oct 11, 2016 09:24
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Would something like this be a good solution? http://www.avantree.com/category-bluetooth-speaker-adapter-21/product-bluetooth-audio-transmitter-avantree-priva-1059.html
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Oct 11, 2016 12:50
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That would definitely work but I hate audio latency so much that I'd probably just end up getting a couple of sets of headphones with long cables. 32ms as it claims there is pretty good, you'll notice lipsync issues from about 60ms quite dramatically. I had a thing where some stuff played over my home streaming setup was 100ms ahead or behind and it annoyed the piss out of me until I solved the issue. Send them a few questions, it's suggesting that it uses aptX low latency which is 32ms but then also states it uses regular old aptX which has a delay of 165ms which is a fair whack and not something you'd want to put up with. *edit: alternatively watch a few things in VLC and mess with the audio delay to see if it's something you can live with or whether it would gently caress you off.
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Oct 12, 2016 09:21
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