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I recently got a new fieldsheer jacket from ridegear.com - their blowout section has some very reasonable pricing. I would just like to point out to everyone that jeans apparently have less abrasion resistance than skin. I don't always ride with proper riding pants, but when I'm wearing jeans I figure I have essentially no leg protection. The couple of times I crashed at the track I did the majority of damage to my hip area on my leathers. To be honest if I had to choose between crashing with leather pants or crashing with a leather jacket I'd choose the pants.
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Mar 25, 2007 06:20
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teknicolor posted:What is everyone's opinion of knee armor worn under regular jeans? If I'm driving less than three miles to work, it just doesn't seem worth it to put on my leather trousers, drive 15 minutes, then take them off and change into my regular jeans. Should I just shut up and deal, or does the knee armor sound ok for short distances? Look into textile overpants.
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Mar 26, 2007 04:02
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rope kid posted:An Aerostich Roadcrafter 1-piece is $727. That's peanuts compared to even a cheap 1-piece leather suit. Depends on what you buy I guess. I've got a Teknic 1piece that I paid $300 for and have crashed it two times at the track. It's held up pretty darn well, even though now it really does need a few repairs. Combine it with a rain suit and you'd have a pretty nice touring setup. EDIT: I would probably get a roadcrafter if I mostly did touring.
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Mar 26, 2007 16:06
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Sir Tonk posted:I'm looking for a full-face helmet and really like the design of the ones with a flip-up chin...Like this Shoei one. I've never liked how the flip ups fit down below your ears. I think this is just because of how they have to stay on your head without the support of the chin bar. They generally are heavier than a standard full face. I just flip up my visor and speak up. n8r fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Mar 26, 2007 |
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Mar 26, 2007 17:15
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Sir Tonk posted:Those look really nice and very expensive. How warm are they? I need something that'll not make my feet sweat unbearably in the summer heat. Actually those are pretty cheap motoX boots, but they'll work fine for starting out - they are probably $100 MSRP. You probably wouldn't want to wear motoX boots on a street bike, but they would work okay I guess. Generally Sidi/Alpinestar makes the nicest ones. I've got some Sidi SRS model boots that have this amazingly thick/stiff sole. After you get used to them you'll never want to go back to a floppy MX boot. The plastic chest protectors are more for trails/woods riding. They protect you from getting poked and stuff when you're riding/crashing. For roost they make under jersey roost guards, but they aren't really necessary unless you're riding at motoX tracks or racing. Most of the stuff Turtle said I'd agree with. For the helmet make sure that you try on before you buy just like a street bike. I really like riding with bike shorts, they have the compression/chafing protection + a bit of padding. I will also pimp the goggles I wear - Smith Fuels with the LST lense (light sensitive). The lenses work just awesome, they have a great range and they seem to adjust pretty quickly. I've really liked having that feature and they are pretty inexpensive. Since it sounds like you know nothing about dirtbikes please be aware that you now own a very high maintenance race machine. You should be cleaning/oiling the air filter every 2-3 rides (maybe every ride if we're talking sand). Change the transmission oil every 2-3 rides as well, I use the really cheap walmart brand ATF Type-F in my 125 and it worked great. Also I'd encourage you to run silkolene 2stroke oil premixed at 50:1. You can't just run the cheap poo poo that they make for lawnmowers as that oil isn't designed to handle the RPMs a dirtbike puts out. There isn't a lot of dirtbike folks here on the forums, but I'm pretty into them so feel free to PM me if you have any questions. edit: newenoughmx.com and rockymountainatv.com are both good places for gear I've had bad experiences with ridegear.com - enough so that even though they have good prices I won't buy from them again. n8r fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Apr 17, 2007 |
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Apr 17, 2007 05:33
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Bob Morales posted:You're right, I know jack about dirtbikes. I've been riding on the street for a couple years with 4 different bikes but it will be my first summer on the dirt. All of those oils are probably great to run for premix. Anything that is designed for dirtbikes will be great. The synthetics do save you some money in the fact that you get to run a higher ratio, I'm not sure what you would run with the semi-synth. I'm sure the dealership could give you a recommendation. You're not running oil in the engine - it's for the transmission  . 85W would be gear oil, which may work fine. I started out running the really expensive silkolene gear oil, I'm not sure they even give a weight for that stuff. ATF is about the equivalent of 30W oil from my understanding. The gear oil made for dirtbikes does last a bit longer, but at $7 a quart seems a little excessive. The guys over on dirtrider recommend the ATF type-f, but you do need to change it more often. Especially with a 125 because they have such a small amount of oil in their trannies.I'm not a silkolene whore, it's just that is the only stuff my local shop carries.
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Apr 17, 2007 14:20
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Bob Morales posted:Whats the science of ratios? Guys are telling me to run 30:1 It's pretty simple really - the more oil you run the leaner your mixture is because you're replacing fuel with oil. You want to mix at whatever is recommended as the range on the bottle of premix that you're buying. You really want to stick with one brand/ratio of premix because as I said since you're messing with your air/fuel mixture you'll have to change your carb jetting if you're messing with ratios. If you know the previous owner was running a certain premix at a certain ratio you probably want to continue with that setup if the bike is running well. The Honda mechanic I know runs and recommends silkolene at 50:1 and since they all essentially cost the same that's what I run. You can actually adjust your premix ratio as a way of changing your jetting. Say you're going up in elevation quite a bit above where you normally ride. You could run a higher ratio to richen up the bike. Of course you don't want to go too high, because you won't have enough oil for lubrication. All of these things depend quite a bit on the type of premix you are running, so you'll want to read the bottle or ask a shop. I believe 30:1 or 32:1 is sort of the commonly accepted premix ratio for a bike running non-synthetic premix.
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Apr 17, 2007 17:47
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I've crashed 2x in a Teknic chicane suit and it held up just fine - or maybe it was 3? There is a reason I don't do track days anymore, I love to crash. I did end up totally cooking through the arm in one spot in a pretty highspeed lowside and getting a bit rashed. Oh well, it took a week to heal and it wasn't a big deal. I totally agree that the Teknic suits are going to take less numbers of crashs, but they will protect you well. You might have a bigger repair bill if you do blow a seam, but that stuff isn't too expensive to have fixed. Usually a leather shop can repair suits for very modest pricing. orinth posted:I've also got the teknic chicane pants and they work quite well. I've done 6 trackdays in them and numerous other sprited rides and they're great. How can you not like a puck you barely used? I think I had JR pucks and they worked as advertised, I got a knee down and they slid - good times. They look a LOT like the puck on the left, wouldn't be surprised if they are just the same thing.
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May 3, 2007 22:21
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You're not going to be able to comfortably wear one set of leather pants in all weather. For warm weather you're going to need a set of perforated and normal leathers for colder weather. 35mph is not a slow crash, and frankly even leather is going to take some damage at that speed. Mesh/textile is sort of a one crash affair. If the hole isn't too bad, you could probably have a textile patch sewed in for not too much money, but you'd want to be careful how the seams were sewn in. EDIT: for warm weather riding you should be able to find perforated leather gloves.
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May 4, 2007 19:52
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aventari posted:So I went and tried on suits at a local store and while the size 44 fit almost perfect on the arms and legs, the torso was way too short. As in, there was massive camel toe if I stood up all the way and it pulled down hard at the neck and shoulders. The size 46 was still a bit tight in the crotch area but I could stand up and walk without pain. The problem that with 46 the arms were a bit too long and a tiny bit loose and the legs were the same way. I realize the suit is designed for crouching on the bike, but realistically you will have at least walk around a bit with it on. Yah I dunno, most of the guys I saw at the track day just walk around all hunched over and poo poo. One pieces aren't made for walking around. I would see how the 44 fits sitting on a bike.
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May 10, 2007 23:48
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DILLIGAF posted:Figures.... I find one that doesn't look like rear end and itis from a company known for shoddy products HJC makes their helmets. I think your best bet is to wear just a bog standard black helmet with a dark smoked visor.
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May 24, 2007 22:59
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Wouldn't the aerodynamics on a car helmet really suck?
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May 24, 2007 23:09
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DILLIGAF posted:Found one on egay for $285 shipped... that just might be the ticket... That is a pretty sweet looking helmet. The one time I tried buying a helmet online it didn't work for me and the helmet didnt fit. I'd be looking to try on a Simpson before you buy. I've got a very normal round head, but I still don't fit well into lots of brands.
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May 25, 2007 04:51
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Anonymous Name posted:I need a 3/4 ("open-face") helmet, not for a motorcycle, and I'm looking for something very light. Anyone have recommendations? Besides "get a full-face" I mean, and yes I've seen that impact-probability diagram. How safe do you need it? I would think the cheaper you get, the lighter it will be. Look for some sort of junky DOT only helmet at your local bike shop.
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Jun 3, 2007 17:13
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mutt2jeff posted:Ok guys, I could use some help. At the end of August I may be going to an extended trip off-road trip with the Adventure. At least 9 days, more or less entirely double track and fire road. I am holding back details because at the moment its not my place to make any announcements, but I am very excited. Think Long Way Round, but not so Long, or Round. Really just Way http://www.rockymoto.com/sidi_srs_page.htm These boots are the poo poo in my opinion, and at a pretty decent price. You can get cheaper MX boots, but these will last you forever. The fact that you can replace the soles yourself will save you a decent amount of money in the long term. As for a helmet, I'm not familiar with any helmets that vent all that well. I believe rockymoto is having a sale on Shoeis, but they are still quite expensive. I imagine they are very good. I really like the Smith LST (Light Sensitive) models, I really like the Fuel model which is very reasonably priced. The light sensitive lense works really well through a range of light conditions.
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Jul 15, 2007 16:59
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Z3n posted:http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/gearbox/motorcycle_helmet_review/ I think it's worth reading the reply that the Snell foundation wrote to motorcyclist at the bottom of the article. In addition there was a test done in europe where they used a much more complex combination of impacts to test the helmet. It was posted on here quite a while ago, but I haven't ever been able to find another copy of it. I'm definitely not a helmet snob, I happen to wear a Shoei because of the fit and the quality of the materials. My Shoei has held up to years of riding and it's not worn out one bit.
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Aug 13, 2007 04:57
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I don't think you should even bother with silly knee guards if you aren't wearing something that has some abrasion resistance. Chances are you'll slide on your hip areas as well during a crash, and you won't have any protection there. In regard to wearing sunglasses under a helmet, I've never heard anyone say not to do it. If anything sunglasses may act as additional eye protection in situations where your visor fails.
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Aug 20, 2007 05:07
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In a typical lowside situation one of your main points of contact is going to be your rear end/hip area. Obviously there are situations where if you have something like those shin guards they will help, but there are many that it won't. Frankly, a pair of overpants will be just as quick to put on and a lot safer. If someone wants to wear them, fine, but I don't think they should convince themselves they are wearing an appropriate amount of protection. Actually I believe most sunglasses are quite shatter proof. I know Oakley and other brands like to brag about how their lenses can resist a shotgun shot. Basically, you're citing two anecdotal situations that happen to support your claim. Frankly, I think there could be just as many anecdotal situations where knee guards don't do poo poo, or sunglasses save you from getting your eye gouged out. If knee guards were so awesome you'd see all sorts of people wearing them. If glasses/sunglasses were so horrible you wouldn't have helmet makers designing slots in their helmets so they can slide in easily.
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Aug 20, 2007 06:09
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Mapless posted:Rev'it just sent me a new rain suit to try that's pretty awesome. It's a thin membrane with holes cut out for your pucks, it's a 2-peice suit. I think retail's around $100 or so and it's well worth it so far. Rolls up into a tiny TINY package. Are you testing gear or something? You get this stuff for free?
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Aug 31, 2007 06:19
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If you want proper neck protection you wear a Leatt brace. They were pretty much required at Paris Dakar this year. http://www.leatt-brace.com
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Feb 14, 2009 08:39
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French Canadian posted:webbikeworld's review said that for street riding, the Leatt brace can impede your ability to tuck in and look forward, since the restraint prevents you from tilting your head far back. That is of course the idea, and it's great for upright riding, though it is something to keep in mind I suppose. I'm not sure webbikeworld was as negative as you recall: quote:The company says the brace is “compatible with all motorcycle helmet types and our design allows riders an adequate range of movement.” But the catch here is my Leatt Brace doesn't allow extreme angles of forward lean as illustrated in my photos, like in a full racing crouch. I honestly think that at the track the sorts of injuries that a Leatt can prevent are probably quite rare. In addition the way the Leatt fits can definitely cause problems when wearing tight fitting leathers. I think if you really wanted to wear one you might have to have your gear altered. In addition there may be helmets that are better compatible with the brace if you need to do a full tuck. ADVrider has some fairly good discussions regarding the Leatt vs. neck rolls vs. other options. I'd say it's worth reading up and making the decision on your own.
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Feb 17, 2009 01:30
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8ender posted:If I had the money to spend on another pair of gloves I'd love to try these: I like his book total control, but this dude is a dick. I was looking at his gloves at a show and mentioned how they had no armor to my friend and he felt like he needed to step in and tell me how some dude won some poo poo AMA class wearing them. I asked him why all the guys I see in MotoGP & WSBK / etc wear gloves that obviously have large amounts of hard armor on the knuckles. I'm sure they are nice gloves and would protect you in most situations, but the fact he doesn't make any with hard armor is silly.
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Mar 26, 2009 18:48
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Z3n posted:The Helimot stuff uses impact foam sandwiched between the leather on the top of the glove and the leather on the back of your hand. Even though that doesn't have any hard shell armor, that's far more padding than the Parks garbage. Those look like a pretty decent set of gloves, I imagine they work nicely.
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Mar 26, 2009 23:15
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MrKatharsis posted:Does the one-piece have better protection? I live in Florida and I'd like to be able to partially disrobe between races. This is all brand new to me. You will melt in a non-perforated setup. Most guys just unzip the suit down to their waist. 1 piece suits are in general more comfortable once you get into them because you don't have a bunch of overlap around the waist.
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Apr 14, 2009 18:55
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Get a throttle lock that helps as well. My Falco has helibars - I just recently rode a superhawk. The difference in the riding position is very minor, but the superhawk just isn't quite as upright, and I started to feel it within 15 minutes of riding. I've already done a few 400 mile days on the Falco without much trouble.
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May 13, 2009 19:32
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Sure - I would think any seamstress could fix them for virtually no charge. Or a boot repair shop.
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May 13, 2009 22:21
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Get a pair of leather over the ankle hiking boots.
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Dec 16, 2010 18:42
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Does anyone else think that any solid pair of hiking boots would provide as much protection as most street boots? Unless you get to the really high end race boots they don't seem any more solid to me. Inu: why do you want elbow sliders?
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Apr 16, 2011 15:55
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I have MX elbow guards that are pretty cheap and hard plastic they'd work fine as elbow sliders.
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Apr 16, 2011 21:38
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Ribsauce posted:Also trying to figure out a good multipurpose boot for street and dirt and that I can also walk around in comfortably. Are you talking dirt like advrider dirt (dirt roads) or actual dirt riding like single track/MX/DOONZ? For real dirt riding you want real MX boots that go up almost to your knees. There really isn't any good alternative to those.
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Apr 17, 2011 17:41
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Any significant speed with a visor has got to suck pretty hard.
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Apr 25, 2011 17:03
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What sort of armor do you expect to get on a boot? Most of the plastic poo poo on race boots is there just so you don't have to toss them after one crash.
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Apr 28, 2011 00:27
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timn posted:I've started to put together a gear list in preparation for going to a store and trying stuff on. I plan on spirited street riding and maybe track days farther down the road. How do these picks look? What sort of weather do you plan on riding in? Solid leather gets drat hot pretty quickly. It's useful to own for track days, but not great all around gear. I've always liked Shoeis and wear them both for street and MX riding. I haven't heard anything about venting angle/etc/etc that Innu is talking about, but I guess that is probably true. I would try on both the Qwest and the RF and see if there is any differences in fit. If you're spending that much on a helmet, please go get it fit properly. As a new rider you may not know what a properly fitting helmet feels like. Lots of new riders end up with a helmet that is too big for them and end up needed a different/smaller helmet after the liner packs out a bit. The gloves are all probably fine. I happen to own a very old earlier model of these: http://www.motorcyclegear.com/street/gloves/street_or_racing_gauntlet/cortech_by_tour_master/adrenaline_motorcycle_gloves.html I've had great luck with them and they've held up for a very long time. My suggestion with gloves is to buy on the small side of things and stretch them out.
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May 10, 2011 16:05
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SlightlyMadman posted:Bahahahahahahahahaahha holy poo poo, look at these two images: Pics look the same to me bro. Edit: I guess one is slightly lighter. n8r fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Jun 7, 2011 |
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Jun 7, 2011 20:58
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SaucyPants posted:
Check out the reviews of these sorts of helmets of webbikeworld or whatever the name of that site is. They really sperg out on their helmet reviews. The fact of the matter is that if you want a really nice helmet and have a normal head you really can't beat Arai/Shoei. I prefer Shoei because they tend to be a bit cheaper and the visor change isn't retarded. I've had my Shoei longer than probably they say you should own a helmet, but I've not had any degradation to the liner or any reason to replace it.
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Jun 8, 2011 07:18
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Flip up helmets without a chinbar are not as safe as full face helmets - even the ones that have them still probably aren't. Something like 30% of crashes are onto your face. Take that into account.
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Jun 28, 2011 18:19
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Shadowgate posted:Got my new jacket today to go with my new helmet from a couple weeks ago. I hope you have riding pants to go with that getup.
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Jul 2, 2011 02:58
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yummycheese posted:Any links for a good motorcycle cover? Im leaving my bike outdoors and the blue tarp thing isnt cutting it any more. I just put all new plastics and paint on my bike and I want to keep it looking nice. Walmart carries what I consider to be a decent motorcycle cover.
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Jul 13, 2011 13:54
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The Saboteur posted:I should also clarify a little bit more what I'm looking for. I ride a cafe racer inspired style bike, and everything I own is matte black. If there is a subdued or matte black leather jacket that is pretty simple or would go well with a cruiser style bike, that would be great. I have an oldschool leather jacket that I rarely wear, but it's pretty good for older bikes. Found it at a pawn shop. Around here the pawn shops have lots of leather.
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Aug 4, 2011 18:05
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 01:08 |
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I'd get a mesh setup and then carry a dedicated rainsuit.
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Aug 26, 2011 17:43
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