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There have been a lot of 10/22 threads recently so I thought it would be a good idea to consolidate everything into one thread. Builds, "halp I broke something," ammo suggestions, where-to-buy, etc. etc. Post that stuff here. There are enough TFR posters with 10/22s that one of us is bound to have an answer. I have two 10/22s at the moment, both configured pretty similarly (until I get the urge to swap out components [again]). Both have Bell & Carlson classic-style stocks and Jard 1.5lb trigger packs. One has a 20-inch fluted SS Green Mountain barrel, and the other an 18.5-inch SS Volquartsen-- both .920 diameter. I have a Leupold 3-9x33mm AO on the 18.5-incher, and a 4x28mm on the 20. Anyone here done the 17 HM2 conversion? I've been pondering it for awhile. KOTJ fucked around with this message at Nov 3, 2007 around 03:16 |
| # ? Nov 3, 2007 03:09 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 07:28 |
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this thread motivated me to get off my rear end and finish refinishing my 10/22 stock
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 03:20 |
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How easy are barrels to install? Just unscrew the old one and crew in a new one, or is it something a gunsmith needs to be involved in?
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 04:55 |
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It's pretty easy. Just unscrew the Barrel Block Screws with the proper sized allen wrench, take the barrel block off, and slide the old barrel out of the reciever. From there clean up the reciever (there may be burrs or other junk in there mussing up the fit of the new barrel). Slide the new barrel roughly 1/2 way in, then put the barrel block and screws back in. Tighten the BBL Block screws to pull the barrel in the other 1/2 of the way. Make sure to tighten them alternately, so you don't put too much pressure on either one and bend anything the wrong way. If that doesn't make sense, the Barrel Manufacturer should send you a slip detailing the best way to relpace your factory barrel. Hope that helps.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 05:01 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:How easy are barrels to install? Just unscrew the old one and crew in a new one, or is it something a gunsmith needs to be involved in?  Undo hey screws (4mm allen key). Remove barrel. Insert new barrel. Redo hex screws. Go shoot things. The whole 10/22 design is fantastically DIY-able. Which is why it's so popular.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 05:03 |
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Kickass, another 10/22 Megathread, the old one kinda died out. I am building the ultimate of ultimate's right now for next years benchrest season. I set an unlimited budget and I have 6 months to complete it so I have no excuses for it to not kick rear end when finished. The goal is to prove my $3000 rimfire shooting buddies wrong and show them that an autoloader can be every bit as accurate as a bolt gun. My stock is in progress, it's solid maple and will have a high gloss paintjob and be glass and pillar bedded with a stock mounted tuner. Straight bottomed butt with a 3" 45 degree tapered fore-end for use with a Sinclair mircoadjustable rest. I made the blank this week by laminating a few solid planed maple pieces together, once it's all profiled out I'm going to countersink some stainless machine screws inside it for extra strength and rigidity. I still don't know what the action will consist of, but whatever it is it will be top notch. I'm thinking a minimum of a Kidd 2 stage trigger and CPC reworked bolt. I've got both my 10/22's dismantled right now trying to figure out how to make them better without throwing a ton of aftermarket parts at them. They are both much better than stock currently but I'm trying to squeeze as much performance as I can out of stock components so I won't have to skimp on parts for the ultimate project. I'm going to pick up a 10/22 youth model tomorrow for a donor receiver and bolt. The 16" barrel will be mated to a pile of parts I have laying around to build another rifle with a butler creek folder for carrying around in the woods. These rifles are insanely addicting.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 08:09 |
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One note for barrel replacement. The biggest thing to check aside from it being in all the way is that the groove and extractor are properly lined up. I put a little CLP on the barrel shank and that allowed me to rotate it relatively easily. you should have a little space on either side of the extractor when the bolt is closed. Then just tighten the block down. If you use CLP to lube the shank, when you store the gun barrel up it will seep out into the action so don't worry about the barrel coming loose. e: spel güd SeamusMcPhisticuffs fucked around with this message at Nov 3, 2007 around 11:26 |
| # ? Nov 3, 2007 11:16 |
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N183CS posted:I've got both my 10/22's dismantled right now trying to figure out how to make them better without throwing a ton of aftermarket parts at them. They are both much better than stock currently but I'm trying to squeeze as much performance as I can out of stock components so I won't have to skimp on parts for the ultimate project. What exactly have you done to improve the factory bits? I've polished the hammer, sear and disconnector until it was smooth as glass, re-radiused and polished the trigger plunger. I'm thinking about trying the JB weld trick to get rid of the creep from the trigger group next.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 13:20 |
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gimpsuitjones posted:
Ever since I took my barrel off once it seems like I can never get the sights lined up right with the receiver.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 16:32 |
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I have a 10/22 that I've owned for about 10 years now. I polished the engagement surfaces of the action, lightening up the trigger and improving its crispness a LOT. I also took a dremel to the bolt hold-open and made it an auto=release or whatever. I also leave the barrel band off so I can take it apart easier. That's it. It's a bone-stock carbine with the crappy wood furniture and standard sights. It shoots thing just fine, and I don't care to upgrade it any more. I'm even using the pair of factory mags that came with it.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 19:58 |
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I hung out at RimfireCentral a whole bunch when I was building my 10/22's. I was up to 4 of them at one time, but am now back down to just two. It's all I really need anyway (did I just SAY that?!?!?)  This is the only pic of my 10/22's right now. Picture the bottom one with a Volquartsen TMH stainless steel carbon fiber wrapped barrel with compensator and a standard black Ruger receiver. It looks like the rifle that used to be on the front page of RimfireCentral (might still be, haven't been there in over a year). The top gun has a Butler Creek barrel, Volquartsen and Power Custom action and trigger innards, and a Hogue Overmold stock. It's my hunting and plinking rifle. The bottom gun is a bench queen, asprin gun, and sometimes rimfire silhouette rifle.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 20:38 |
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whoring out mine again... It started out like this:  and then became this:   I have about 5,000 rounds through it and I love it to death. Hopefully Santa Claus will be good to me this year and bring me a VQ target hammer, Kidd trigger, and a Tac-Sol extended magazine release.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 20:45 |
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http://www.ironwooddesigns.com/2aprod/11022prod.html Only one of the most badass aftermarket stocks that you can buy. Just bringing it up because this should be in every 10/22 thread.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 20:51 |
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Petit.Conan posted:What exactly have you done to improve the factory bits? I've polished the hammer, sear and disconnector until it was smooth as glass, re-radiused and polished the trigger plunger. I'm thinking about trying the JB weld trick to get rid of the creep from the trigger group next. Did everything you listed, plus removed all the paint from inside the receiver, polished the bolt guide rails with a dremel and rouge followed by some mothers aluminum polish. I took the factory guide rod, compressed the spring to one end, wrapped it in tape to hold the spring then polished it with emery cloth and a dremel, reversed the spring to the opposite side and now the action cycles noticeably smoother. I also polished both sides of the bolt and charging handle, the handle was purely cosmetic, not sure if the bolt face actually touches the receiver but I figured I'd do it anyway. The JB weld trick sounds pretty cool, I may have to try it. My match 10/22 has all the same tricks done as my sporter, plus it has an overtravel screw in the trigger guard. Pull is around 1 1/2 pounds with little to no creep.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 21:23 |
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I was planning on posting a "how to dismantle your 10/22" section in the TFR wiki. Would any of you guys think it would be useful? VV that was part of the plan, so I'll do that then. FormulaXFD fucked around with this message at Nov 3, 2007 around 22:40 |
| # ? Nov 3, 2007 21:39 |
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Getting it apart is the easy part, post a reassembly guide with lots of pictures. I know when I took mine apart the first time, and then it sat there for 3 days while I was stripping the finish off it, by the time I got back I didn't know what the gently caress anymore. N183CS: Yeah I've polished just about every surface the bolt assembly touches too, I think that made one of the biggest differences when it came to FTE's. Honestly it went from 1 or 2 per 25 round mag to 1 or so per 100 rounds. Haven't touched the guide rod yet as I got a VQ rod/spring/bolt handle coming but I might now just for the heck of it.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 21:48 |
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My Ruger 10/22 SS Deluxe Sporter:  List of upgrades: -Glass-bedded and reinforced the pillar for the barreled action -Free floated the barrel -Volquartsen Action Parts Kit Plus -Volquartsen Extended Bolt Handle and Recoil Spring Assembly -Nikon 4.5-14x40mmAO Buck-Master -Volquartsen Hex Head Takedown Screw -Harris Bipod Model S-LM -Uncle Mike's Quick Detachable Wood Screw Type Sling Swivel Set -Weaver 1" See-Thru Ring -Williams Fire Sight Set
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 23:10 |
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Numlock posted:Ever since I took my barrel off once it seems like I can never get the sights lined up right with the receiver. Actually yeah you've gotta watch for that.
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| # ? Nov 3, 2007 23:24 |
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For improving the 10/22's accuracy does the trigger get upgrade-priority over the beefier barrel? I figure the advantage of the bull barrel is that it takes to the higher heat better (less warping as it gets hot)
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 03:55 |
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A new VQ hammer is like $35, and will help the trigger hugely. A new bbl is like $135, and will help accuracy alot, but the ruger barrels are not bad at all. If you have the money, get both, but if you want the most value for your money, just do the hammer/trigger.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 04:01 |
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XFDRaven posted:For improving the 10/22's accuracy does the trigger get upgrade-priority over the beefier barrel? I figure the advantage of the bull barrel is that it takes to the higher heat better (less warping as it gets hot) I've had sporter contour barrels that outshot some of my .920s, so yeah, the trigger is the biggest thing. A light, crisp trigger makes everything soooo much easier. The trigger is cheaper to "fix," too. I spent about $200 for each of my Jard trigger packs, but that's only because I'm too lazy/impatient to actually do any work on mine besides screwing on new barrels and stocks. A new hammer, plus new springs will still help a lot, and will only run you $50 tops.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 04:41 |
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djdanno13 posted:http://www.ironwooddesigns.com/2aprod/11022prod.html 
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 04:50 |
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XFDRaven posted:For improving the 10/22's accuracy does the trigger get upgrade-priority over the beefier barrel? I figure the advantage of the bull barrel is that it takes to the higher heat better (less warping as it gets hot) This really only makes a difference if you are doing mag dumps from a 25 round mag. The older factory barrels were crap but the newer ones will shoot as well as a heavy trigger pull will allow. The trigger is the single biggest upgrade you can do to a 10/22. If you are pulling your shots like I was with a heavy factory trigger than the most accurate barrel in the world isn't goint to help. A VQ hammer and any of the dozens of aftermarket synthetic bolt buffers will help tremendously. DIY polishing goes a long way in cleaning up the pull as well, just do your homework before attempting it as it is easy to go overboard and cause an unsafe condition within your action.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 05:18 |
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Somebody mind posting a tried-and-true polishing guide? Also, where's the best place to pick up parts - I know that it varies, but it seems that some places consistently have better prices/products than others when it comes specifically to the 10/22
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 05:54 |
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hygienes for fags posted:Somebody mind posting a tried-and-true polishing guide? Volquartsen is the only 3rd party vendor that I know of for 10/22 bits. https://www.volquartsen.com/vc//pag...stFams.jsp?id=8 I just finished taking the pictures and doing my write up for the 10/22 dismantling & reassembly. Giving it closer attention, I really understand the point about the trigger: its quite a bit of "click" force. I'll probably pay up the $130 for a trigger upgrade kit down the road. For tomorrow though, 1000 rounds of 22lr 
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 06:44 |
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hygienes for fags posted:Also, where's the best place to pick up parts - I know that it varies, but it seems that some places consistently have better prices/products than others when it comes specifically to the 10/22
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 06:48 |
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Brownell's has a great selection of 10/22 parts. They offer Volquartsen stuff as well as other companies like Power Custom, Green Mountain and a variety of stocks. Bonus: if you work in the LE field, you get a nice discount there.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 08:29 |
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Rimfire Sports & Custom and Hawktech are great, they even ship to Canada for free.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 14:16 |
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ph4lcon posted:whoring out mine again... Is that stock green? Mine's black.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 14:26 |
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Another vote for Brownell's as a source for 10/22 goodies. I usually buy from them or MidwayUSA.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 17:16 |
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NosmoKing posted:Is that stock green? Mine's black. Yeah, it's the OD green stock. I love it because it has taken some pretty tough abuse. And I use midway for all of my 10/22 ricing needs. Dealer discount and all.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 18:40 |
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Check out Rimfirecentral.com They've got a huge vendor section.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 19:10 |
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I bought a 10/22 this week and took it to the range this morning. I purchased one of those hot lips 25 round magazines and put that bitch in there and started shooting. I had numerous FTEs. On the last one, the bullet nose was jammed in the upper right corner of the receiver and the base was jammed into the left bottom side. I removed the magazine and pulled the bolt back to clear the jam and thought I engaged the "hold open" mechanism. Guess what, I didn't engage it. The bolt slammed down on the jammed bullet and the loving thing blew up. I hosed up my hand a little with some brass shrapnel and some minor burns, no real damage luckily. I can't see any damage to the inside of the receiver, but I don't know what I am looking for. What should I do, is it dangerous to shoot it again, what kind of damage could it do? Has this happened to any of you?
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 19:57 |
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eDOUBLEg posted:I bought a 10/22 this week and took it to the range this morning. I purchased one of those hot lips 25 round magazines and put that bitch in there and started shooting. I had numerous FTEs. On the last one, the bullet nose was jammed in the upper right corner of the receiver and the base was jammed into the left bottom side. I removed the magazine and pulled the bolt back to clear the jam and thought I engaged the "hold open" mechanism. Guess what, I didn't engage it. The bolt slammed down on the jammed bullet and the loving thing blew up. I hosed up my hand a little with some brass shrapnel and some minor burns, no real damage luckily. I can't see any damage to the inside of the receiver, but I don't know what I am looking for. What should I do, is it dangerous to shoot it again, what kind of damage could it do? Has this happened to any of you? Eh, it's a .22lr I doubt you did any damage to anything.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 20:05 |
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eDOUBLEg posted:I bought a 10/22 this week and took it to the range this morning. I purchased one of those hot lips 25 round magazines and put that bitch in there and started shooting. I had numerous FTEs. Also I agree with ph4lcon. You could basically shoot a 10/22 with another 10/22 and not hurt either one.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 21:18 |
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eDOUBLEg posted:I bought a 10/22 this week and took it to the range this morning. I purchased one of those hot lips 25 round magazines and put that bitch in there and started shooting. I had numerous FTEs. On the last one, the bullet nose was jammed in the upper right corner of the receiver and the base was jammed into the left bottom side. I removed the magazine and pulled the bolt back to clear the jam and thought I engaged the "hold open" mechanism. Guess what, I didn't engage it. The bolt slammed down on the jammed bullet and the loving thing blew up. I hosed up my hand a little with some brass shrapnel and some minor burns, no real damage luckily. I can't see any damage to the inside of the receiver, but I don't know what I am looking for. What should I do, is it dangerous to shoot it again, what kind of damage could it do? Has this happened to any of you? That's somewhat common with rimfire autoloaders, and the reason I don't let people stand to my right when I'm shooting them. If the round gets stuck between the edge chamber and the bolt, the energy of the bolt slamming home is more than enough to set off the primer. I had it happen twice with my first 10/22, right after I got it, with no noticeable damage to the gun. I'd still strip it and examine the bolt and the inside of the reciever, but it's probably fine.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 21:37 |
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KOTJ posted:That's somewhat common with rimfire autoloaders, and the reason I don't let people stand to my right when I'm shooting them. Thats because the person has to be in front of you to be able to shoot them  Seriously though, I had a round fire out of battery in one of my 10/22's once and it blew the mag, extractor and spring out of the gun. Any loose parts might be succeptible to shock loosening them, but if the cartridge just blew up in the receiver I wouldn't be too worried. Like folks have said, just disassemble it and give it a good going over to be safe.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 22:40 |
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Thanks for the advice and making me feel like I am not such a dumb rear end for doing it.
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 23:25 |
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This is the best accessory I have purchased http://www.cabelas.com/prod-1/0044458228517a.shtml Drop a handfull of bullets into the hopper part and shake a little so they all fall into their slots, then turn the knob. Loads my 25 round mags in 30 seconds. It is a little fragile, but well worth the money
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 23:35 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 07:28 |
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Dont wanna derail or anything, but awhile back I heard that a stock 10/22 will need the gobs of stuff added to it to be on par with other factory-stock autoloader 22's in similar price ranges that will cost the same as a riced 10/22 that have fitted barrels and other non-mod friendly stuff. There any truth to this?
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| # ? Nov 4, 2007 23:50 |
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