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 Could use a few touch-ups but I'm happy for the most part.
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| # ? Feb 8, 2008 19:58 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 16:44 |
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clockwork automaton posted:
Holy poo poo, I want one! 
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| # ? Feb 8, 2008 20:00 |
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Gutless Wonder posted:Close-up of Jimmy Hopkins (i.e. the money shot) This looked really good. Lots of great work elsewhere as well ( as usual ). I was at a screenprinting workshop this weekend, and they asked us to do some stuff on calico with paper cutouts as stencils - I did a 50's / tiki cocktail art style bottle, some interlocking traced scissors and a few other things. I liked this - I drew the straight edges with one of my credit cards, and used my ring and a spool of twine for the circular forms. Screening is so crisp!  I also finally finished up a four layer + background shirt of Gus the firefly from Sam and the Firefly. Too many layers, too little experience with stenciling onto fabric, too ambitious overall, but I still had a good time.  ( SVG of the firefly is available if anyone else is particularly beloved of this children's book )
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| # ? Feb 10, 2008 11:00 |
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Been following the thread for a while, and getting ready to do my first stencil this week after finally picking up a cutting mat. I printed out two designs on regular printer paper to bring to school tomorrow, where I can get them xeroxed onto a transparency and then blow them up on the projector so I can trace them. I got this stiff paper stuff I also grabbed at Staples that seems kind of midway between construction paper and cardboard. (It rolls up, but very reluctantly.) I also have some heavy-ish glossyish paper the same size, just kind of experimenting with materials to see what works, really. I did a sort of rough "practice run" tonight for the hell of it. I traced one of the printed designs onto notebook paper, which I then glued (not spray advesived) to a cereal box I'd been saving for another DIY project. I waited for it to dry a bit, then tried cutting out the stencil. The slightly moist cardboard and fine details didn't really make for a great first attempt, but it was a good learning experience. (I wound up having to go back and re-slice a lot of it, because I hadn't cut all the way through the box at first) It was really relaxing to lay there and concentrate on cutting out the stencil, school's been stressing me out lately and I think it was the first time all weekend I didn't think about it. I took a few experimental carves at a sheet of acetate after that, and holy poo poo does that stuff hold up much better as far as fine details go. I think that's the way I'm going to go for smaller stuff, though I think I can get away with less expensive and more available materials for the larger things that don't have those delicate bridges. I did see some decent sized acetate (A3?) at Staples though. As far as spray adhesive goes, what are the best ways to keep it from sticking *too much* and ripping off a delicate piece of bridgework when you go to lift it off the surface? Should you be using different amounts for acetate or light cardboard/heavy paper? Do you kind of have to time it between when your paint dries and before the adhesive does? Or am I thinking way too much about this? I've been using that vectorizor linked a bit down on the front page and having great results. It helps to prepare them in Photoshop ahead of time, doing some dodging/burning and playing with the "Thresholds" setting, and then fine-tunning the bitmap once it's been vectorized.
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| # ? Feb 10, 2008 18:50 |
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Pompous Rhombus posted:As far as spray adhesive goes, what are the best ways to keep it from sticking *too much* and ripping off a delicate piece of bridgework when you go to lift it off the surface? Should you be using different amounts for acetate or light cardboard/heavy paper? Do you kind of have to time it between when your paint dries and before the adhesive does? Or am I thinking way too much about this? I find that my bridges tear much less if when I'm peeling the material off I simply do so in more than one direction - usually I'll peel down, then up, then kind of just pick it up using the two sides I have available. Works fine for printer paper on t-shirts, not sure about anything else.
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| # ? Feb 10, 2008 22:41 |
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  I didn't want to take the time to cut out the big stencil I traced today, so I stuck a spare sheet of acetate to the printout of my first stencil, cut it out, and had a few goes at spraying. The green is because I didn't double-check when I was grabbing what I thought was black, and it turned out to be "willow green". I found some stuff by 3M that's a "repositional [spray] adhesive", which worked like a charm even with details the size of a fingernail clipping. (Kind of pricey though, something like $11 for the can.) The spraypaint selection at the store was really limited, though they had some gold and chrome stuff that I might want to try in the future. I also picked up a messenger-tube type thing, which is great for holding big pieces of paper, and possibly spray paint. It doubles in length to about a meter. 
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| # ? Feb 11, 2008 16:33 |
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I working on a life size stencil for the streets. I was wondering the what the best way to cut it out is. I edited the picture in PS and its ready to be cut although Im not sure how to translate from the size on the computer to a much larger sheet of cardboard. Any tips?
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| # ? Feb 12, 2008 00:17 |
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   I roll my stencils, so usually take a cardboard tube and cut it open. This last one I got lazy and took the file to office depot to print out on big paper, cut it out, laminated it, then cut it out. Although I can hold it to the wall with duct tape easily, the plastic seams to hold the roll a bit much and paint takes forever to dry on the plastic. Also, any suggestions to defeat paint removing solvent? I was thinking if I let the paint dry than spray over it with adhesive it might stand a chance. Oh I've done a whole series of this but have yet to scale the rest. If you care to interpret, It's characterizing the Romantic Irony of War. Vasily Zaytsev fucked around with this message at Feb 12, 2008 around 22:14 |
| # ? Feb 12, 2008 04:08 |
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ekuNNN posted:If my eyes don't deceive me that's Montana Gold. You have to shake the BAJEEZUS out of that stuff to get the liquid awesome that is inside. Shake for several minutes. I usually shake those cans upside down, side to side-wiggly style for a few minutes, then jump up and down and shake it like bam bam from the Flinstones. Then put a nice, wide mouth cap on it and spray it till all the goop shoots out and you have your mist. Voila.
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| # ? Feb 12, 2008 18:47 |
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 thanks! I did shake it of course, but I'll shake it quite a bit longer, I just gave up because my other montana gold cans worked fine with my normal amount of shaking  but yay, there's hope yet.edit: Yay! it worked! now I feel dumb because the solution was so easy, I imagined all kinds of wacky hijinks would be involved anyway: woo! Dark orange stencils, here I come!
ekuNNN fucked around with this message at Feb 12, 2008 around 20:24 |
| # ? Feb 12, 2008 20:07 |
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Vasily Zaytsev posted:Don't go over other peoples stuff. There's plenty of walls, paint the empty ones.
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| # ? Feb 13, 2008 00:09 |
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I am the milkman posted:Don't go over other peoples stuff. There's plenty of walls, paint the empty ones. You can quite clearly see they went over someone else's, besides that wall is a free for all anyway.
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| # ? Feb 13, 2008 02:47 |
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I learned the lessons from my first attempt and made a much better second one. This time I used transparency paper for the stencil. My God this stuff works beautifully. Forgive the bright orange patterned paper. It was the only thing big enough at hand to stop the glare from the high gloss paint. The paper I used made the acrylic paint I used turn into something resembling a vinyl sticker (two coats). I think it's neat.  And for comparison with the original.  Now to find a suitable shirt to experiment with.
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| # ? Feb 13, 2008 03:19 |
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Kerk posted:I working on a life size stencil for the streets. I was wondering the what the best way to cut it out is. I edited the picture in PS and its ready to be cut although Im not sure how to translate from the size on the computer to a much larger sheet of cardboard. Any tips? I also got a pm asking this question and I forgot to post about it. I have several ways of doing this, one way is to project the image on your material (taped to the wall) and trace the design. My roommate has a nice digital projector so I lucked out, some people print their designs on plastic sheets and use an overhead projector. Another way to make a big stencil would be to divide your image in A4 sized parts and print them out one by one, solve the puzzle on your piece of cardboard and tape it down. Illustrator actually has a print option for this but I forget what it is, it's somewhere in your print preview window in a drop-down menu. If you're going really big you could use The Rasterbator but you might lose some detail depending on how big you want to make it. Here's something I made for the 15h of March.  
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| # ? Feb 17, 2008 19:53 |
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I stole a shirt that my boyfriend never uses. It's some super  size that is clearly not XXL once you try it on. I thought it would be a perfect 'first attempt' shirt.My results were pretty good.  Here's some detail shots. You can see that the paint bled. I'm guessing because the liquid acrylic my roommate so kindly lent me was too thin, especially considering the fabric medium is also liquid.   The shirt is currently going through a laundry test to see if the fabric medium I bought holds up. And it should, drat it. I gave that thing multiple coats and a good heat set 
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| # ? Feb 18, 2008 18:58 |
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Im trying to make a stencil of a someone's head shot. My problem is that i dont know how to begin. Is there any formula on which part of the head to use white space and which part to use dark space?
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| # ? Feb 18, 2008 21:52 |
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CrazyPanda posted:Im trying to make a stencil of a someone's head shot. My problem is that i dont know how to begin. Is there any formula on which part of the head to use white space and which part to use dark space?
{edit} send me the file, we can both do it at the same time and I'll see if i can give you advice on your final product. Vasily Zaytsev fucked around with this message at Mar 3, 2010 around 04:17 |
| # ? Feb 18, 2008 22:52 |
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Bah, after a standard laundry washing it didn't turn out well at all. Well, I guess if I'm going for the intentionally distressed/old shirt look I know what to do now.  
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| # ? Feb 18, 2008 22:57 |
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animeluva1 posted:Bah, after a standard laundry washing it didn't turn out well at all. Well, I guess if I'm going for the intentionally distressed/old shirt look I know what to do now. What do you consider a good heat set and how many coats did you put on? Chances are that you ended up with it being too thick and it didn't cure. Next time you do this try putting on one solid coat, heat it until you can touch it without getting ink on your finger (try holding an iron over it if you don't want to risk moving the stencil), then put another coat on top. Or just don't use white as it's a loving bitch sometimes even with the proper tools.
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| # ? Feb 18, 2008 23:54 |
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Vasily Zaytsev posted:[list=1][*]Take the picture and put it into PS Hey, thanks a lot for that, im playing with gimp right now, and im getting something out of the picture. My problem right now is that there is no real combination where the details of all the details could be adequately captured. On some brightness level all the hair details are present but devoid of facial expressions, vice versa. Is this where layers come in? edit: using this is really easy for someone with a light skin tone but with someone with a darker skin tone, its a lot more difficult. would you have any suggestiosn, im working on sending you the picture soon. awesomepanda fucked around with this message at Feb 19, 2008 around 01:00 |
| # ? Feb 19, 2008 00:52 |
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CrazyPanda posted:Hey, thanks a lot for that, im playing with gimp right now, and im getting something out of the picture. My problem right now is that there is no real combination where the details of all the details could be adequately captured. On some brightness level all the hair details are present but devoid of facial expressions, vice versa. Is this where layers come in? I really can't say until I get a shot at the pic. my email should be in my profile and if it isn't it will be.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2008 04:32 |
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ChickenSuit posted:What do you consider a good heat set and how many coats did you put on? Chances are that you ended up with it being too thick and it didn't cure. It's usually a good idea to wash the t shirt or whatever you're using first, because brand new ones tend to shrink a bit after their first wash. That might've contributed to the cracking as well; if it was new, of course.
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| # ? Feb 19, 2008 20:01 |
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Its pretty unoriginal, but Im posting it because you guys inspired me to make this. I'll show you the pictures after I stencil with my own work all over the house I am renting.
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| # ? Feb 20, 2008 07:54 |
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bandaid posted:Its pretty unoriginal, but Im posting it because you guys inspired me to make this. I'll show you the pictures after I stencil with my own work all over the house I am renting. Just to let you know, it takes a lot of house paint to cover up spray paint and it's also very bad for your health to spray paint indoors without a respirator. Also try masking off the surface you're spraying to avoid all that overspray.
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| # ? Feb 20, 2008 20:17 |
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Here is my first, I took the design from one of the tutorials. And here is my second. I am disappointed with the bleeding of the letters but I still like the shirt. 
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| # ? Feb 21, 2008 08:09 |
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Laura-4-Lyfe posted:This is loving awesome.
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| # ? Feb 21, 2008 23:56 |
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Made my first stencil and sprayed it today. Came out pretty decent I think. The ridges in the cardboard didn't seem to hold the stencil too well, so it dripped or over sprayed a bit. What surfaces would you recommend spraying to for better results?
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| # ? Feb 23, 2008 00:16 |
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Opals25 posted:The ridges in the cardboard didn't seem to hold the stencil too well, so it dripped or over sprayed a bit. What surfaces would you recommend spraying to for better results? Manila folders work great and are dirt cheap. If you're just practicing, each folder has four surfaces you can spray.
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| # ? Feb 23, 2008 02:23 |
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Need some paint advice: I am trying to stencil a piece of aluminum and can't seem to come up with a good set of instructions. So far I am down to either acid wash or sand(blast) the piece to get the crud off the surface. Then apply a primer to the piece followed by the layers of paint. Afterwards find a clear coat of some type and finish it up. I am sure with adequate searching I can find the right primer/paint/clear coat but was wondering if anyone here had some experience with aluminum and could help me out. Will post my stencils later in the week.
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| # ? Feb 25, 2008 02:47 |
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sl0hburn posted:Need some paint advice: Go to home depot, they have all kinds of poo poo. Most paint will stick to aluminum but this sounds like its art or something. yeah they have primers, paint, and varnish/lacquers/etc.
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| # ? Feb 25, 2008 03:03 |
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Opals25 posted:Made my first stencil and sprayed it today. Came out pretty decent I think. Did you use spray adhesive? I did my first one with just tape and it came out looking pretty similar.
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| # ? Feb 25, 2008 07:39 |
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 This is my latest.
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| # ? Feb 25, 2008 22:15 |
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Last night at 2AM I read genesplicer's "The Gentle Art of Eraser Carving" and became totally inspired by his robot stamp (halfway down the page). I've been keeping up with the stencil threads for AGES, but last night I did my first stencil completely by the seat of my pants, substituting materials and ideas at random. I printed out his awesome robot, sprinkled some table salt on a stack of newspaper (thick enough that my razor blade couldn't stab all the way through it even if I went totally berserk on it) and then I laid down the stencil. I didn't have an xacto or a scalpel, but I did have a big, heavy-duty carpenter's knife. Since it wasn't at all maneuverable, I just stuck it into the newspaper, and moved the stencil around instead. It worked almost like a little miniature band saw. (I added the salt to help the stencil scoot around, kinda like a shuffleboard table) I didn't have any spray adhesive, so I just used a plain-old glue-stick. I was fairly certain it wasn't going to work at all, but I let it dry a bit before putting it down on the shirt, and it actually worked great. I had to do a little picking to get the paper off afterwards, but not too much. The only part that went really terribly was the actual paint application. I've never used acrylic paint before. I was expecting it to be more like oil paint and less like watercolor. I put WAY too much paint on it the first go-round, because the shirt just kept sucking it all up. The large fields of color (under the robots arms) came out super ugly. The paint bled all over and never really reached a strong enough concentration. In the thinner lines (particularly around the feet) it worked really surprisingly well. All in all, I am extremely impressed with how forgiving the whole process was. I can only assume that when I do things properly it will turn out really impressively.
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| # ? Feb 26, 2008 01:01 |
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Another question, how do you execute a nice fade using spray paint? I want to do a double layer stencil that has the second color solid in some places but fades into my first layer in others. Is this as simple as "spray lots here, less over here?" Or is there some cool technique that only imperceptible primates know?
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| # ? Feb 26, 2008 17:41 |
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sl0hburn posted:Another question, how do you execute a nice fade using spray paint? I want to do a double layer stencil that has the second color solid in some places but fades into my first layer in others. Is this as simple as "spray lots here, less over here?" Or is there some cool technique that only imperceptible primates know? Just spray at a distance, the more distance between the material and the can the more diffuse the spray.
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| # ? Feb 26, 2008 18:18 |
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sl0hburn posted:Another question, how do you execute a nice fade using spray paint? I want to do a double layer stencil that has the second color solid in some places but fades into my first layer in others. Is this as simple as "spray lots here, less over here?" Or is there some cool technique that only imperceptible primates know?  There are several ways to blend for multi layered stencils. If you are trying to shade over an area that you've already painted then I would control how much paint you apply, for that just spray from further away. If you are trying to blend two different colors, then use two different types of paint on the layer. The type of paint you use also has an effect. The crap from Walmart that costs 1$ takes forever to coat, while some of the expensive stuff is really thick. In your case, I would apply the first color, wait for it to dry. Then put on the 2nd stencil and put a light coat of paint from a distance. After that dries you could even apply the first color over the 2nd stencil but a very light graze.
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| # ? Feb 26, 2008 18:25 |
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 I finally made time to do another stencil. Quote shamelessly stolen from some goon in the interesting animals thread in GBS. I hate doing small lettering Also, Those look great, Mr Egbert. ekuNNN fucked around with this message at Feb 27, 2008 around 02:23 |
| # ? Feb 27, 2008 02:19 |
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Hooray, I love torturing myself by picking ridiculously complicated designs but its worth it for this t-shirt.   This is on the back, I have no idea if it's correct. 
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| # ? Feb 27, 2008 02:41 |
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InvisibleMonkey posted:Hooray, I love torturing myself by picking ridiculously complicated designs but its worth it for this t-shirt. That is the most ridiculously awesome thing ever. You do really good work.
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| # ? Feb 27, 2008 13:54 |
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| # ? May 19, 2013 16:44 |
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InvisibleMonkey posted:Do you just use a standard exacto knife or something else to cut these out?
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| # ? Feb 27, 2008 20:50 |
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