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How do you break up a dog fight when a pit bull isn't involved?
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Dec 1, 2011 22:20
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:27 |
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wraithgar posted:This is literally my cat during winter. Sitting in laps becomes an imperative and she gets pushy. My standoffish cat does this too. She pretty much hates snuggling but once it gets cold (we're in San Diego so cold means like 60° lol) at night she wants to be under the covers in bed, on my lap, etc. From 70° to 40° is a pretty significant temperature drop, doesn't seem terribly surprising that the cat wants something warm to sit on. Instant Jellyfish posted:I've had to break up a few dog fights and the method Leerburg describes works the best as long as you ignore anything about e collars and dominance. Make sure you take a breath and assess the situation before charging in. In many fights one dog is starting poo poo and the other just wants out. If you are by yourself getting the one who is the aggressor out and put away somewhere is usually enough to stop the fight. If the dog is grabbing and releasing instead of just gripping and shaking then try to pull it back when it has released to minimize tearing injuries. Cool, thanks. Seems like a good thing to know how to do. One of my cousin's dogs got into a brutal fight somewhat recently  wasn't a dog fight though, their little terrier got attacked by a pack of coyotes (during the day weirdly enough) and certainly would have died if their standard poodle hadn't jumped in and mauled a couple of them.Poor Zaggy, one of the coyotes actually punctured his skull. He's ok now though, just freaked the gently caress out. Good thing he's got Zoey to cover his tiny rear end 
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Dec 1, 2011 23:22
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I'm not sure a 30° drop in temperature over 4 days is out of nowhere...
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Dec 1, 2011 23:45
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Maybe this is a dumb question but have you tried trading her tug for food? My parent's dog will drop literally anything if you have either a cookie or his beloved squeeky toy and it helped him learn to drop it a lot faster.
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Dec 16, 2011 23:20
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Topoisomerase posted:I thought about that, but I feel like the same concern of leash grab = treat would arise there since the getting her attention part is the difficult part so in her mind the sequence would be more like grab leash -> tug -> treat appears -> drop leash -> eat treat. Maybe I'm overthinking it? I'm by no means an expert, but from what I understand it doesn't really work like that at least in regards to teaching "leave it"/"drop it". You're not rewarding bad behaviour (mouthing poo poo she shouldn't), you're teaching your dog that she gets even more awesome and amazing things when she listens to you and drops the leash/sock/stupidly expensive shoe. You just don't want to use the treat as a lure more than a couple (like 3-5) times and once she understands the game, rewards come on a variable schedule so that she will perform even if treats aren't visible. It seems like you might wanna work on "leave it" at home with a tug and some treats while using the choke chain trick mentioned above. Then maybe once she's got a good grasp of "leave it", switch her back to a regular leash?
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Dec 17, 2011 00:04
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Are furminators a bad idea for long-coated dogs? I seem to remember reading something about furminators loving up their coats but I dunno if I'm remembering correctly or if it's at all accurate. If so, what's a good shedding brush to use on a double coated, long haired dog?
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Dec 20, 2011 22:28
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Has anyone used an remote locator like the Cat Caller on their cats? I'm staying with my parent's at the moment and people keep trapping my cat in closets etc. This house is loving huge and I'm having to spend 30-60 minutes a day panicking and trying to hunt down Danzig and it's super stressful and really loving sucks. E: Also, where can I find good, reliable information about feeing raw and homecooked food? There's tons of info out there but I don't know much about this and am having a hard time telling what's legit and what's bullshit. Is feeding cats raw a terrible idea? Triangulum fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Dec 30, 2011 |
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Dec 30, 2011 08:16
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Takezio posted:So, my brother's wife is an idiot. Long story short, they're moving out, and their new place doesn't allow animals. You could try those bonding glue shampoo removers for people with weaves. Alternatively, saturate the affected area with baby oil or another oil, let it sit for a while, and wipe off. You'll probably have to do it a couple times but it should work. Vaseline might also do the trick.
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Jan 2, 2012 19:22
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Jizznastics posted:Ok, I was never really sure how much different "higher quality" was from the cheapo stuff, but knowing it makes a a big difference will make my life alot easier. However I don't really understand how what I was feeding my dog is worse? Wouldn't a home prepared meal be the best rather then any sorta packaged dog food? It might be if it were balanced, nutrionally complete diet and contained appropriate ingredients but your diet isn't. It's fairly unsafe of just kind of guess at what your dog needs with little to no idea about their nutrional needs. Dogs should be on meat-based diets, not ones heavy on grain and dairy. Grains are really common allergens for dogs and aren't easily digested. High quality kibbles are designed to be nutrionally complete and to contain as few fillers (corn, grains etc) as possible.
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Nov 29, 2012 15:52
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Has anyone used Pet Relocation for moving before? My husband's immigration interview just got scheduled (gently caress YESSSSS!) so we should be moving back to California in the next 2-4 months if everything goes smoothly. We were just going to use a travel agent to book the shortest flight possible on either Lufthansa or KLM but this site looks pretty awesome. They apparently do all the booking and paperwork for you, double check the vet's paperwork, supervise the pet at all times when it's on the ground, and handle customs for you. I'm sure it's retarded expensive but it seems really worth it for peace of mind. Any advice on international travel with dogs would be really appreciated as well.
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Dec 21, 2012 14:25
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You can get non-lethal traps from the Humane Society and I'm pretty sure their the same used for raccoons. I've used them on feral cats before with no problem, though for one we did have to use a broom handle to pick up the cage because she was batshit crazy.
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Dec 21, 2012 19:51
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qerina posted:I don't know anyone who has used this or anything like it. Most airlines will check the vet's paperwork and unless the dog looks sick customs is no problem. I think the only worrying thing is when the dog is on the ground. I know a few people who took a dog overseas and had a neurotic mess once they arrived. Regardless of whether or not I use the relocation service I'm definitely flying KLM or Lufthansa because they have the best reviews for shipping pets internationally. I'm glad to hear you had a good experience with KLM and that they did a good job caring for your dog. How well did your dog cope will the flight? Did she bounce back pretty quickly?
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Dec 28, 2012 11:19
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Which registry(s) should I register my dog's microchip with? There are so many in the US I'm not sure which to use.
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Jan 30, 2013 14:32
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Can you register non-AVID chips through AVID? Their website is currently down but from what I understand they use 9-digit ID numbers whereas Vecna's microchip has a 14 digit number. I've got his registered through TASSO right now and they do registery for the US as well but it seems like they aren't very wildly used outside of Europe.
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Jan 30, 2013 16:27
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Is it standard operating procedure to muzzle or sedate a dog for an orthopedic exam? I took Vecna to a vet I've never been to before over the weekend because he'd been limping for a couple days (my regular one is closed for renovations). I was playing with him in the exam room to help him relax and he as usual was really mouthy with me but the vet said because of that he needed to be muzzled or sedated for the exam. I don't know, that just struck me as odd and the muzzle made the the exam really, really horrible for him. He cried the whole time and was really miserable for a while after we got home I'm doing some handling training with him to teach him to lie on his sides and hold his mouth open for exams but I wasn't super impressed with how they handled him. Is this a fairly normal thing for vets to do or am I right to be sketched out by it? I realize he's really large and kinda scary looking but it seems like the whole ordeal could have been made a lot less stressful for him.
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Mar 5, 2013 16:41
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That sucks, guess its time to muzzle train him so every vet visit doesn't result in sedation or a screaming fit What positions would you recommend dog owners train their dogs to stand / lie in for vet exams? Triangulum fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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Mar 5, 2013 19:11
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What's the best kind of crate to use in the back of a pickup? I can't really keep transporting Vecna in the cab because he gets really excited and moves around a lot and it's really distracting. The cab's way too small to hold his crate so I guess I'm going to have to crate him in the bed of the truck. Will one of the heavy duty IATA crates work or do I need to shell out for one of the big metal crates? Should I cover the crate?
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Mar 19, 2013 17:39
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Oh Amy  I have a RuffWear car harness but there isn't enough space in the backseat for him to wear it and lay down. I need one for Schutzhund as well. E: my truck has one of those useless little bench seats that's so small it's only good for carrying groceries. Triangulum fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Mar 19, 2013 |
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Mar 19, 2013 17:52
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adventure in the sandbox posted:I ratchet-strap a big crate in the front centre (right behind the cab) box of my pickup in the summer. I know its not going to keep them safe enough, like a good harness in the cab would, but its only used in good weather to get out to a camping spot. Pretty low-risk :/ driving down clear highway or empty logging roads. My next vehicle will be an SUV or a new truck with a canopy, so the dogs can be more secure. I think that's what I'm gonna have to do for now :/ Vecna screamed in my husband's ear yesterday while we were driving because OH MY GOD WE'RE GOING TO THE BEACH!!! and now he's pissed off and refusing to drive with Vecna unless he's crated  I wish we still had the shell on our truck but we replaced it with a pipe rack.We're in the process of looking for a new car/truck at the moment so hopefully I won't have to do it for too long.
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Mar 20, 2013 20:47
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There's a dove outside my office that's been sitting in the planter for 24+ hours. I don't think it can fly Is there anything I can do for it besides giving it food and water?
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Jun 14, 2013 17:56
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I meant until then, sorry. I can't take it until I get off work. e: The bird can fly, she took off when I tried to pick her up and then plopped back down in the planter. maybe she just likes it there? Triangulum fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Jun 14, 2013 |
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Jun 14, 2013 18:19
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Serella posted:A good rule of thumb would be if you can catch her, she's not doing well and needs to be taken to the wildlife center. Otherwise, she might just be dumb. Doves and pigeons are supremely dumb. I used to own a fantail pigeon, and she was basically the dumbest creature alive. Good to know! I know pretty much fuckall about birds haha. I'm gonna go check on her tomorrow just in case she's still hanging around (I left her some food and a bowl of water). She's surprisingly curious too, she followed me around for a little bit after work 
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Jun 15, 2013 00:28
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Are Greyhounds and Lurchers the only breeds that get corns on their feet? I think Vecna might have one on his toe, it's this flat oval raised area and it seems kinda painful. I'll try to get a pic of it in a bit. E: Pic  That raised whitish area is what I'm wondering about Triangulum fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Jun 27, 2013 |
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Jun 27, 2013 17:26
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A space blanket would work even better than cardboard because it'll reflect the heat. I make tents out of them in the back of my truck when it's hot. Besides a covering, make sure he has water and consider clipping a fan to the crate and/or giving him a frozen water bottle wrapped in a towel.
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Jun 27, 2013 19:41
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Does anyone have any experience with dogs with panosteitis? Vecna got diagnosed with it about a year ago (confirmed via x-rays) and it's still giving him hell. I just had his blood work done and he's okay to continue taking Rovera but while it helps, he still limps really badly some days and I can tell he's still in a lot of pain. Is there anything a pain PRN I can ask my vet about next time we get his meds refilled? Supplements? Anything? The vets said not to be terribly shocked if this continues all the way into adulthood because his case is pretty severe but I hate to think about another year of my bud in constant pain
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Jul 25, 2014 00:09
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It's pretty much only his left front leg. It does wax and wane and for a while it went away entirely and I thought he might be over it but it came back a few months ago and seems to be hurting him a lot more than it did before. We've had multiple sets of x-rays done on on his legs, hips, and elbows and gotten a second (and third) opinion on his x-rays from an orthopedic vet and they all agree it's an unusual case of pano. He has minor arthritis in one hip joint but the orthopedic vets agreed that it wasn't causing the lameness and that in all likelihood it wouldn't bother him until he was a senior if that and gave us the okay to continue doing sports with him. Regardless, I've pulled him out of bitework, stick to tracking and swimming as his primary form of exercise, and am considering retiring him from Schutzhund. I'll ask about tramadol when I pick up his refills this week, thanks
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Jul 25, 2014 03:18
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I've called my vet about that exact same thing with my GSDs and he told me to feed chicken and rice for a couple days and see if works itself out. If there was marrow in the bone the richness might have given him some digestive upset, shepherds are notorious for having sensitive stomachs. Cow bones in general are pretty hard even for a big dog so there's a decent chance some of it got passed and could have scraped him up a bit coming out. IANAV but you're probably fine to wait a while to see if it improves on it's own (if it gets worse you obviously wanna take him in though)
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Jul 25, 2014 20:56
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Some of Hurrta's items are insulated, it just depends on which you chose. If it's just for sleeping, something like this might suit your needs well: http://www.hurtta.com/EN/Products/Warm%20clothing/Microfleece%20jumpsuit/
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Oct 24, 2014 21:37
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If she's acting like you're starving her you can add some green beans to her meal. It'll add bulk and fiber so she feels fuller without adding many calories.
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Jan 25, 2015 21:18
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GimpInBlack posted:So I just accepted a job in Sweden--I currently live in Montreal. Does anybody have experience with transatlantic pet moves? We have two dogs in the 30-35 lb. range and a cat. I'm really not fond of the idea of shipping them in cargo, so I'm curious if anybody's done this or similar and might have some pointers. I moved my GSD from Germany to the US and I know Fluffy Bunnies has done a ton of moving with her dogs. We flew KLM and it was a pretty good experience. Most important thing is to call the airline company you're using and talk to them about it. Many have restrictions on when you can fly with pets in the cargo hold because it's not climate controlled and some airports don't fly pets. Some airlines also have additional requirements beyond the IATA requirements for flying pets at all. Don't try and book your tickets online either - call the airline itself. It's really stressful and a pain in the rear end but honestly in retrospect it wasn't a big deal and my dog coped just fine.
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Jan 29, 2016 18:25
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 10:27 |
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A normal dog should be able to walk 4 miles without dying
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Feb 22, 2016 17:26
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