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Clumsy Card House
Jan 6, 2008

I'm sorry for my first post in this thread being a dumb question, but what is this thing called? It's a little tightening bead thing used on pouches and backpacks and hoodies. I figured someone in this thread would know.

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Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May
Cord stop or toggle cord lock.

Clumsy Card House
Jan 6, 2008

Thanks!

Bees on Wheat
Jul 18, 2007

I've never been happy



QUAIL DIVISION
Buglord

sforzacio posted:

Transfer the tissue pattern onto pattern or manilla paper, then weigh down the pattern with a bunch of stuff. Then you have a kind of hard/raised edge where you can painstakingly mark using light and gentle strokes around it.

edit: or just pin the tissue straight to the fabric and cut?

I thought about doing that just to keep a copy of the pattern that won't be damaged as easily, but some of the pieces are huuuge. The cutting layout uses the full 60" width, and something like 5 or 6 yards of fabric, not including lining.

In other news, I messed up part of the lining and had to rip all the seams out. Turns out skipping ahead isn't a great idea when the instructions for one part are in two different places. There's a foundation lining with plastic boning in it, and I was confused because there were directions for sewing it but not inserting the boning, and all the pattern pieces said to cut doubles.. Turns out I misplaced the instructions where it says to take one set of lining pieces and interface them, then sew them up and add boning. The other set is the lining for that.. lining. :sigh:

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

sforzacio posted:

Transfer the tissue pattern onto pattern or manilla paper, then weigh down the pattern with a bunch of stuff. Then you have a kind of hard/raised edge where you can painstakingly mark using light and gentle strokes around it.

edit: or just pin the tissue straight to the fabric and cut?

I would do this. Weigh it down and use a rotary cutter to cut it out. It seems like using pins will just make the fabric move around.

sforzacio
Nov 6, 2012

As long as you're careful and pin every 3-4 inches, I want to say it should be okay.

Put a few pins on the grainline marking of your pattern pieces first, then pin all along the outer perimeter and just cut it out with the pattern piece still attached.

I personally prefer retracing it out onto manilla though, so you should consider just biting the bullet and doing it. You'll have a pattern that lasts longer!

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

sforzacio posted:

As long as you're careful and pin every 3-4 inches, I want to say it should be okay.

Put a few pins on the grainline marking of your pattern pieces first, then pin all along the outer perimeter and just cut it out with the pattern piece still attached.

I personally prefer retracing it out onto manilla though, so you should consider just biting the bullet and doing it. You'll have a pattern that lasts longer!

I got a roll of wide tracing paper from Blick for like $25 that I transfer all my patterns to. It's especially nice if I'm not sure which size I want, or if I have to play with the pattern.

bEatmstrJ
Jun 30, 2004

Look upon my bathroom joists, ye females, and despair.
I'm looking to buy a Juki 1541 or something similar that can handle several layers of heavy material. It would be used to make gear for rafting such as nylon camlock straps which sometimes are three layers thick, or canvas bags or other waterproof rigging bags made out of heavy materials.

Heres a few examples of the things I'd like to sew:




The Juki 1541 seems to be the standard in this arena but its pretty pricey at $1300 or so. I'm looking for recommendations on a similar (hopefully cheaper) machine that can handle the same types of projects (needs to be able to do a straight and a box stitch.

nolen
Apr 4, 2004

butts.

bEatmstrJ posted:

I'm looking to buy a Juki 1541 or something similar that can handle several layers of heavy material. It would be used to make gear for rafting such as nylon camlock straps which sometimes are three layers thick, or canvas bags or other waterproof rigging bags made out of heavy materials.

Heres a few examples of the things I'd like to sew:




The Juki 1541 seems to be the standard in this arena but its pretty pricey at $1300 or so. I'm looking for recommendations on a similar (hopefully cheaper) machine that can handle the same types of projects (needs to be able to do a straight and a box stitch.

The 1541S is pretty good but is prone to having the bobbin basket slip and get caught in the hook. This is due to the design of the hook assembly for this machine.

The 1508 fixes that by having the bobbin use a drop-in style loading, but then you're looking at an increased price (though a MUCH more powerful machine).


Neither of those machines (or any other standard walking foot industrial) will give you an automatic box stitch though. I'm assuming you meant that you would manually sew out the box shape? Otherwise, grab one of these sexy beasts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOqDYB1SBp4


To actually give you helpful advice, check craigslist for used walking foot industrial machines. You will find plenty of older ones for cheap. Slap a nice servo motor on there and you're in business.

Bitter Beard
Sep 11, 2001

I don't even know what the fuck I'm doing!!

bEatmstrJ posted:

I'm looking to buy a Juki 1541 or something similar that can handle several layers of heavy material. It would be used to make gear for rafting such as nylon camlock straps which sometimes are three layers thick, or canvas bags or other waterproof rigging bags made out of heavy materials.

Heres a few examples of the things I'd like to sew:




The Juki 1541 seems to be the standard in this arena but its pretty pricey at $1300 or so. I'm looking for recommendations on a similar (hopefully cheaper) machine that can handle the same types of projects (needs to be able to do a straight and a box stitch.

Like Nolen posted industrial machines typically do only one job, but they do it very well, so you won't find a box stitcher that also is a walking foot straight stitch. I've sewn two layers of webbing on my 1541s without a problem yet, but I wasn't doing it for speed and profit. I don't see how a third layer would pose any significant problems, I don't have any webbing sitting around or I'd go try it for you.

My first industrial was a Juki 1181 that was able to handle four layers of thick army grade canvas without any issues, I only had to help it through the handle section that went up to eight with a padded cotton core. I traded to get the machine but I sold it for 7 or 800, the 1181 should be able to handle all that you are doing but it can get all mashy and grindy when you try to do simple cotton sewing on two layers, it really likes thicker stuff.

I would call around and find a good sewing repair shop, when you find something on craiglist since it sounds like you want used, call the shop and make sure the make/model is worth the repair costs and ask what a ballpark tuneup is going to cost. There are a ton of cheaper China knock off industrial machines that a lot of shops won't even work on, so even though they might be cheap to get any breakdowns and you might be out all the cash or have to ship off the head for repairs.

There are a ton of makes/models out there that can do what you need, I would suggest calling small businesses and ask what they use. Before I bought my 1541S I cold called a guy who owned a small shop that makes awnings and I let him know I was a hobbyist looking to upgrade but was looking for someone with knowledge if they had time to discuss what they were using, was incredibly helpful and I ticked off a couple machines in my search. I've stayed in contact with the guy and have done a few embroidery jobs for him, think he was just testing out my abilities to start with. Worth a shot though.

The place I bought my machine from their sales people are also very helpful and have been in the business forever, they might be a little better at helping you find a better priced machine that'll do what you need http://www.raichert.com/

nolen
Apr 4, 2004

butts.
On a semi-related note, if anyone here is in the Los Angeles area and wants to buy my used Juki 1508 for around $1700 - hit me up via PM.

I'm moving soon and I don't use it as much as I had hoped. These things are HEAVY.

bEatmstrJ
Jun 30, 2004

Look upon my bathroom joists, ye females, and despair.
Thanks friends. All good info. I don't know much about sewing but any info is helpful. Mostly were looking for something that can do the job without complaining and isn't cost prohibitive. ~$500 would be ideal, hence why i'm looking for alternatives to the Juki, even though it seems like an ideal machine.

That Damn Satyr
Nov 4, 2008

A connoisseur of fine junk
edit: actually, I think I'm going to just make a new thread for embroidery. :)

Bloop bloop http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3643153

That Damn Satyr fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Jun 14, 2014

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious

Made some pants for my kid, won't fit for a while tho.

Riding on the boost in confidence from making those I feel like doing something for myself. But finding mens patterns is hard. Anyone know of any patterns for something like this: http://shop.carhartt-wip.com/view/se/men/jackets/I007888/battle-parka ?

The "fairbanks pullover" from here: http://www.questoutfitters.com/patterns-jackets-cart.htm looks sorta like what I want. How do I know if the pattern is any good before buying it?

Keska
Jan 29, 2007
Persistent Lurker
Try looking it up on sewing.patternreview.com/ or Google the name of the pattern to see if you can find anyone else who has made it.

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

I am the milkman posted:


Made some pants for my kid, won't fit for a while tho.

Riding on the boost in confidence from making those I feel like doing something for myself. But finding mens patterns is hard. Anyone know of any patterns for something like this: http://shop.carhartt-wip.com/view/se/men/jackets/I007888/battle-parka ?

The "fairbanks pullover" from here: http://www.questoutfitters.com/patterns-jackets-cart.htm looks sorta like what I want. How do I know if the pattern is any good before buying it?

check out collete patterns, they have a great men's shirt pattern and a new coat pattern like the one you pictured.

flutterbyblue
Oct 29, 2007

I'm a little cat in a pretty hat!
seriouslywtf your clothing is amazing. I am especially stunned by that coat. Everything you've made looks like things I would love to wear. I'm digging the high-waist skirt in particular as well because I've wanted one, not known how it would look, and you've convinced me I definitely want one.

OMG Nolen your stegosaurus purse. :swoon:

I love the clutches Satryberry. Especially the butterfly patterned one.

And Funhiled, the little dresses you're making are completely adorable. I really adore the cherry print one.

I do aprons (because I'm not remotely good enough to do clothing I really like wearing. I know, I've tried), but I adore having aprons around for cooking and baking and since they're going to get covered with batter the next time I crank the mixer too hard I don't mind if there's the occasional gather or slightly wonky seam.

A new diner style pattern I picked up. This was a trial run of sorts (and I really liked the fabric). I want to do some Game of Thrones ones with applique. House Umber and House Mormont are going to be my first attempts.


An older patter that I quite like, but is honestly more difficult.




I also did a couple purses (one for my mom's birthday and the other for a fundraiser).


vaguely
Apr 29, 2013

hot_squirting_honey.gif

flutterbyblue posted:

I also did a couple purses (one for my mom's birthday and the other for a fundraiser).



These are really nice! Did you put the flower details together yourself or did you buy them? Whichever one it is I want details :D

flutterbyblue
Oct 29, 2007

I'm a little cat in a pretty hat!
I made the flower bits myself! You can find general flower instructions here and here. The bits that stretch out under the big flower are individual petals sewn onto silk cording by hand.

Funhilde
Jun 1, 2011

Cats Love Me.

flutterbyblue posted:

I made the flower bits myself! You can find general flower instructions here and here. The bits that stretch out under the big flower are individual petals sewn onto silk cording by hand.

She also sells them on Etsy. They are really great. I wore some in my hair at a festival recently and folks were all about them.

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious

Funhilde posted:

check out collete patterns, they have a great men's shirt pattern and a new coat pattern like the one you pictured.

Looks good, thanks. I also found Thread Theory, a company that only makes menswear patterns. After trying out their free undershirt pattern, I've also bought the pattern for and started making the jedediah shorts. The coming collection looks to be a 100% my thing.

Artistic Monkey
Jan 8, 2004

Whats this particular fastener called? I've been trying to find a place to buy a few

Bitter Beard
Sep 11, 2001

I don't even know what the fuck I'm doing!!

Artistic Monkey posted:

Whats this particular fastener called? I've been trying to find a place to buy a few

I've bought things from NRS.com before and that looks like they are the same thing. I've never bought cam buckles though, maybe bEatmstrJ can talk to the quality if that's where they get their supply?

[edit]

I am the milkman posted:

Looks good, thanks. I also found Thread Theory, a company that only makes menswear patterns. After trying out their free undershirt pattern, I've also bought the pattern for and started making the jedediah shorts. The coming collection looks to be a 100% my thing.

Those patterns are great, I think I'm going to have to buy some. Also those backpacks and jackets when that new line releases as well, I had no idea patterns like that were purchasable. The stuff I've seen in the stores, to me, has not been inspiring or project worthy at all.

Bitter Beard fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Jun 20, 2014

Tlacuache
Jul 3, 2007
Cross my heart, smack me dead, stick a lobster on my head.


I've got a question that may or may not be better suited here than for the cosplay thread. I'm making a kirtle for a costume (Oddleif from The Banner Saga, for the curious) and using the women's kirtle here as a pattern.

Once I have the sleeves and gores sewed on, I need to stitch the last bit of open side together. However my sewing machine tends to clump up the stitches where all the seams gather since it's too thick. Am I going to be stuck hand-stitching that part? Should I adjust tension for that and try again, then readjust when it's back to just two layers?

Amykinz
May 6, 2007
It's not your thread tension that's the issue, it's that the wad of seams there is too thick for your machine's feed dogs to move easily past the presser foot. This is a good situation for a walking foot, if you can get/afford one for your machine. See if you can possibly 'help' the machine move the fabric past the needle and presser foot, maybe?

Stultus Maximus
Dec 21, 2009

USPOL May

Amykinz posted:

It's not your thread tension that's the issue, it's that the wad of seams there is too thick for your machine's feed dogs to move easily past the presser foot. This is a good situation for a walking foot, if you can get/afford one for your machine. See if you can possibly 'help' the machine move the fabric past the needle and presser foot, maybe?

Or drop the dogs and move it manually.

Tlacuache
Jul 3, 2007
Cross my heart, smack me dead, stick a lobster on my head.


Awesome, thanks. I'll check out the local fabric store for a walking foot.

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious
I've done a lot of things lately, mainly a pair of jedediah shorts, but also just sewing in general.

jedediahshortsen-2 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

jedediahshortsen-1 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

Visited my grandma over the weekend and dipped in to her mothers old box of quilting squares and tried some quilting for the first time. I didn't really know what I was doing but figure I should be able to just piece stuff together as long as I followed a straight edge.
blandat-2 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

Made it into some sort of purse thing.

blandat-5 by iamlukesky, on Flickr
blandat-4 by iamlukesky, on Flickr

Fun stuff.

HodjasBitch
Apr 24, 2003

Too bad you revealed what a huge asshole you are so early in the game.....I woulda put out.
Fun Shoe
Despite having been in the hospital twice, I have been a quilting fool. I just finished another that I haven't photographed yet, but here are a couple that I have, and a few silly bags I made. All were gifts. I'm in the middle of quilting the rainbow strip and flip top now, had to set it aside for a baby quilt that is due.







There are other little things I keep forgetting to photograph because I am stupid. Most I've made versions of before, though.

Staryberry
Oct 16, 2009
It's so great to see the things people post here. I am the milkman, those shorts are fantastic. The fit looks perfect. HodjasBitch, those quilts are great. The first one is my favorite of the bunch.

This last weekend I decided I wanted to sew something. I ended up making this doll using scraps of fabric I already had and this pattern:
http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2013/02/girl-boy-fabric-dolls-pattern-pieces-included.html

She will be a gift to my niece who will turn two next month.



Her features are embroidered and the skirt is removable and reversible



Here is a secret heart embroidered on her butt, like the little signature on a cabbage patch doll!

bEatmstrJ
Jun 30, 2004

Look upon my bathroom joists, ye females, and despair.

Artistic Monkey posted:

Whats this particular fastener called? I've been trying to find a place to buy a few

They are called cam straps or cam buckle straps.

They definitely come in a range of qualities. I use them for river rafting so I need pretty durable ones. I order mine from Tuff River Stuff who makes very high quality straps for a few bucks each.

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:
Hey, maybe you guys can help me.

I wanted to make my own winter coat this year and was originally thinking a fitted traditional peacoat with fur on the collar a la Jon Snow's cape but fancier. I found the Albion pattern from Colette and really like it as it's like my current coat, but it doesn't have a collar.

I'm not skilled enough to make a collar out of nothing, and I'm not opposed to the hood. I guess the logical thing would be to fur-line the hood, but I probably won't ever use it. Do any of you have suggestions for either alterations or alternatives?

HodjasBitch
Apr 24, 2003

Too bad you revealed what a huge asshole you are so early in the game.....I woulda put out.
Fun Shoe
Maybe hit up a thrift store or two and find a cheap coat with a collar that you like, then deconstruct it carefully to use as a pattern. I can't see how the hood connects in that coat, but I do see that the lining ends below it, so you should have an edge to line up with. You'll have plenty of extra fabric, but make a practice collar from the scrap coat fabric to check for fit.

That's what I'd do, but I've never made a coat. Good luck.

e: I'm thinking about garments I've made (it's been a while) and almost all have been without collars. One was a hooded Jedi robe with pleats that met at the neck, but I could have easily changed it to a Dracula collar. The one thing I do remember was a doll jacket, and I just measured the opening, added the seam allowance on the ends, and sewed two pieces of fabric together and turned them right side out after clipping, etc. Depending on your fabric, you may need interfacing. If you do fur, it may hide a multitude of sins. It'll be interesting how you get that inside neck pretty with all of the bulk, though.

HodjasBitch fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Aug 1, 2014

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:

HodjasBitch posted:

Maybe hit up a thrift store or two and find a cheap coat with a collar that you like, then deconstruct it carefully to use as a pattern. I can't see how the hood connects in that coat, but I do see that the lining ends below it, so you should have an edge to line up with. You'll have plenty of extra fabric, but make a practice collar from the scrap coat fabric to check for fit.

That's what I'd do, but I've never made a coat. Good luck.

e: I'm thinking about garments I've made (it's been a while) and almost all have been without collars. One was a hooded Jedi robe with pleats that met at the neck, but I could have easily changed it to a Dracula collar. The one thing I do remember was a doll jacket, and I just measured the opening, added the seam allowance on the ends, and sewed two pieces of fabric together and turned them right side out after clipping, etc. Depending on your fabric, you may need interfacing. If you do fur, it may hide a multitude of sins. It'll be interesting how you get that inside neck pretty with all of the bulk, though.

I thought about that. I guess I can honestly make the coat with the hood and then hand-stitch the fur when it's all done? That way I can can place it however. Like I wonder if making it like a detachable fur collar would be the way to go. It'll be awfully bulky that way.

My original idea was using a pattern like this coat from McCall or even something like this coat without the ugly ruffles and a smaller collar, or just to replace it entirely. Actually, now that I look at that second one it looks really stupid.

I'll think about it some more. I've sewn things, just never a coat. Of course I could always make both :v:

Edit: There's also this pattern which was included in a really big sew-a-long. The only thing I don't like is that it has two buttons (what the hell?), but I guess that's an easy fix. I don't want the neck too open because it gets frigid here in the winter.

Edit2: Waaaa I found the perfect pattern but of course I think it's discontinued. On the hunt for it I guess

Shnooks fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Aug 1, 2014

HodjasBitch
Apr 24, 2003

Too bad you revealed what a huge asshole you are so early in the game.....I woulda put out.
Fun Shoe
The McCalls coat is beautiful. I had a tailored suit with a jacket similar to that with the high/low hem. It was a lot of fabric to sit on while driving, but didn't wrinkle because it was lined black velvet. Mine was a stage costume, a little fancy for everyday wear.

That pattern is nice because it shows you those options, but it's pretty far from the one in your OP. The two button coat is nice, but adding more buttons would screw with the silhouette. And again, that seems so different from the OP coat. If the collar is your only issue, try the thrift store thing. Or, just make the pattern as is, and think about altering it later.

I am the milkman
Oct 25, 2005
my milk is delicious
I too have a pattern alternation question. I've mentioned earlier that I wanted to make an anorak style jacket, so I bought this pattern and based on the measurements of a jacket I already have I decided to make a size 40.
Now I made a test version and the fit is more or less spot on but the hood and collar are both a bit cramped. Again measuring from another jacket it looks like I want to use the hood from size 50, which means I need to enlarge the neck opening to fit the larger hood somehow. I don't really know where to start with this so any help is appreciated.

Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:

HodjasBitch posted:

The McCalls coat is beautiful. I had a tailored suit with a jacket similar to that with the high/low hem. It was a lot of fabric to sit on while driving, but didn't wrinkle because it was lined black velvet. Mine was a stage costume, a little fancy for everyday wear.

That pattern is nice because it shows you those options, but it's pretty far from the one in your OP. The two button coat is nice, but adding more buttons would screw with the silhouette. And again, that seems so different from the OP coat. If the collar is your only issue, try the thrift store thing. Or, just make the pattern as is, and think about altering it later.

I ended up buying this pattern and it's perfect. Not the duffle coat style but it's going to work.

HodjasBitch
Apr 24, 2003

Too bad you revealed what a huge asshole you are so early in the game.....I woulda put out.
Fun Shoe

I am the milkman posted:

I too have a pattern alternation question. I've mentioned earlier that I wanted to make an anorak style jacket, so I bought this pattern and based on the measurements of a jacket I already have I decided to make a size 40.
Now I made a test version and the fit is more or less spot on but the hood and collar are both a bit cramped. Again measuring from another jacket it looks like I want to use the hood from size 50, which means I need to enlarge the neck opening to fit the larger hood somehow. I don't really know where to start with this so any help is appreciated.

What fabric did you use for the test version, and what were you planning on using for the final version? That isn't a loose hoodie, an anorak is meant to be closer fitting. If your test version was made of something like cotton or muslin with no stretch, and the final would have stretch, take that into consideration first.

Judging from those shorts up there, I wouldn't have thought you'd mind something being on the fitted side.
:whatup:

Enlarging the neck opening on something with raglan sleeves is (for me) tricky because it's all the same circle. It should be simple in theory, but you also have a hood and a zipper to contend with.

Where are the rest of you clothing answer people? My brain hurts from a weekend with an Alzheimer's parent, and I need to get back into my quilting happy place.

HodjasBitch fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Aug 3, 2014

HodjasBitch
Apr 24, 2003

Too bad you revealed what a huge asshole you are so early in the game.....I woulda put out.
Fun Shoe

Shnooks posted:

I ended up buying this pattern and it's perfect. Not the duffle coat style but it's going to work.

Lots of options to play with! Have fun with that one!

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Shnooks
Mar 24, 2007

I'M BEING BORN D:
I'm seeing a lot of websites saying they trace the pattern on a thicker piece of paper. I've never actually done that. Is it worthwhile?

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