Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Buddleia
May 22, 2007
I like butterflies; butterflies like Buddleia.
Okay, all, I have a question.

I'm venturing into the dangerous, potentially aggravating territory of working with silk. After reading the first post in this thread reminding me that crappy fabric will result in a cheap-looking garment, I went to my local higher-end fabric store, which happened to be having a sale on silks. I've been sewing for years (worked through a few years of high school and university at a fabric store), but I'm not ambitious enough to be awesome at it, and I know that. But, generally, I find if I stick to relatively easy patterns I'm good.

My first silk project will be Vogue 8392:http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8392.htm?tab=very_easy_vogue_sportswear&page=2

The middle view, of course. Who on earth would wear the other two views? Anyway, I've made it once already out of a cotton blend I picked up at an estate sale years ago, and it turned out really nicely and was very easy. So, the pattern is easy and I've done a dry run that went well. Also, it's dupioni silk, so much more manageable, as far as I can tell.

If that goes well, I have another project in mind, and that's where it gets a bit scarier. I have some beautiful charmeuse with butterflies all over it. After looking at what feels like every pattern available, I settled on one I had back from when I worked at the fabric store, so mid-1990s. But it's very simple, no collars, no gathers, no zippers or buttons. It's not tailored, either. So that's a good start, I guess.

I read up on sewing with silk - so, French seams, size 9 sharp needle, silk pins, check, check, check. Another trick someone taught me about sewing with slippery materials is to lay a strip of toilet paper on top of your fabric layers and sew through that to stabilize things. But, I have a question that Google hasn't been able to help me with:

What about bias tape? This top has no facings; the neck edge is supposed to be finished with bias tape. I wouldn't think your standard broadcloth bias would work so well with silk charmeuse. But there doesn't seem to be a source out there for silk bias tape. Please tell me I don't have to make my own. What do I use?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Buddleia
May 22, 2007
I like butterflies; butterflies like Buddleia.

squirrellypoo posted:

Dupioni ("raw silk") is really easy to work with. The edges fray a bit more, but otherwise it's not terribly different from working with plain cotton - it presses well, isn't slippery, and generally handles well. Just don't expect it to drape! You don't have to do all the special silk things with it, but if you want to use it as practice for the charmeuse, go right ahead.

I also plan to pre-wash the dupioni. I've heard lots of people say they launder dupioni silk, but it does shrink quite a bit (I washed a swatch). Obviously, laundering charmeuse is a no-no.

squirrellypoo posted:

Instead of silk pins, you might be better off using weights and a rotary cutter because that stuff just loves to slide everywhere as you're trying to cut it out.
...Omg, get yourself a bias tape maker. Coincidentally enough, I just got back from a holiday where I had a long ferry & train ride on either end, and I spent most of that time hand sewing binding onto the seam allowances or a silk charmeuse blouse I made months ago (which I didn't french seam. stupid. stupid. stupid.). Making bias tape with the maker really isn't that big of a deal, it really speeds up the process.
I do have a rotary cutter. I'd have to buy a new blade, though. I use mine for quilts. I think I'll do the butcher paper trick, too. The slipping during the cutting out is what scares me most, besides the raveling. And I suppose that bias-tape maker looks manageable.

squirrellypoo posted:

But you really need to conceal every raw edge in charmeuse or it'll fray EVERYWHERE, as I learned the hard way! But don't buy the premade stuff, that'd just be gross, especially on such an otherwise nice top.
Yeah, I know I really have to finish the edges well. I don't have a serger, so it's either going to be a combination of French seams and zigzag stitches, or I might go to the seamstress who has a little shop near my grocery store and ask her how much she'd charge to serge it.

Thanks for all the helpful advice!

Buddleia
May 22, 2007
I like butterflies; butterflies like Buddleia.

Buddleia posted:


My first silk project will be Vogue 8392:http://www.voguepatterns.com/item/V8392.htm?tab=very_easy_vogue_sportswear&page=2

The middle view, of course. Who on earth would wear the other two views? Anyway, I've made it once already out of a cotton blend I picked up at an estate sale years ago, and it turned out really nicely and was very easy. So, the pattern is easy and I've done a dry run that went well. Also, it's dupioni silk, so much more manageable, as far as I can tell.

Et, c'est fini! My god, it turned out well. I'm wearing it to work today. I must say, that pattern is easy as sin, and looks great. The only part that was a real pain was slipstitching the collar. But that wasn't hard, just really tedious.

So, I'm gearing up to my big, scary charmeuse project. I was thinking I might do a practice run with that pattern, too. I have a couple of metres left of some black poly chiffon with cherries on it. Perhaps that might be a close enough approximation of my silk charmeuse? I could also go to my local fabric shop and pick up some cheap poly charmeuse. Eeek. I'm getting nervous.

Buddleia
May 22, 2007
I like butterflies; butterflies like Buddleia.

squirrellypoo posted:

Buddleia, this "Fear Not The Fabric" post was written just for you!

I just finished up two shirts and made a 30 second muslin of the next blouse I'm going to make in some silk charmeuse. Want to do a sew along on our respective patterns?

You have no idea. This is probably not the best time to talk about the couple of metres of chinese silk jacquard that's been sitting in my hamper for almost four years.

I probably should do a semi mock-up (a wearable one, ideally, as I did for this dupioni blouse) with the chiffon. In which case, you'll be miles ahead on your blouse, I'm sure. I don't think it would be much of a sew-along.

Buddleia
May 22, 2007
I like butterflies; butterflies like Buddleia.

Ozma posted:

Sometimes I wonder why I got into quilting when I am clearly too lazy.

Hey, it may take me over a year to finish most quilts I do (two for the big king-size guy I've got on our bed), but I'm always so happy with them in the end that I can't wait to start another. I may not be that productive at quilting, but I'm happy.

seriouslywtf, your dress turned out awesome, especially for a first project. Well done.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply