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nolen posted:Speaking of patternreview, does anyone have any sewing forums/blogs that they like to follow? The two sewing threads here in DIY don't seem to move fast enough for my interest sometimes. I follow a couple of blogs. Forums tend to drive me a bit mad. I've also added a few new blogs into my rotation that have had good tutorials. New Yorker guy that sews men's and women's clothing. Uses mostly vintage patterns. http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.com/ New one i've been looking into. She has some really good tutorials. http://stitchesandseams.blogspot.com/ Gretchen started as a blogger and now is a book/pattern author. Her posts haven't been as good recently but she does have some good tutorials as well. http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/ Collette patterns has a nice blog. They do some good links and also talk about good sewing habits and the idea of creative inspiration. http://www.coletterie.com/
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2013 07:14 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 13:40 |
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Here is another blogger that I sometimes check out. She does historical costuming and is good about detail photos. http://www.festiveattyre.com/ Thinking about doing some blog stuff myself. First one will probably be about the Trophy costume I made in October for El Gar. It is my highest profile commission to date and I'm really proud of it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_e5QQhqE248
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2013 21:19 |
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Stultus Maximus posted:Google isn't helping me. Does anyone know if the needle tension knob on that 503A is fundamentally the same as on a 66 class? I have an exploded diagram for the 66 but I can't find one for the 503. Yes It looks like it.
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# ¿ Mar 9, 2013 06:27 |
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Pile of Kittens posted:loving poo poo, I am pissed. Someone ripped off my sewing newb of a business partner and sold her a machine with a non-functioning stitch length selector. Does anyone here have a Juki DL-553 (or any machine with the top-button style stitch length selection) that they're willing to open the back of and post pictures of? I'm pretty sure the mechanism on the upper drive shaft is rotated 180 degrees or maybe just on backwards or something, and consequently the divot where the button goes in is located on the back side from where it's marked on the flywheel. I am not comfortable with doing exploratory surgery and I can't find any loving repair people in my area. I'm just pissed off at the person who sold it, and my goddamn business partner who didn't think it was important to check the loving stitch length selection when buying a used machine. This is extremely goddamn frustrating because we have a hot order that needs to get done last week. I can't help you with a picture and I know you probably aren't in Colorado but if you call Ralph's industrial sewing repair in Denver tomorrow they may be able to help you out with some advice or pictures at least. I've had pretty good luck with their customer service or maybe they will have knowledge of repair shops near your location.
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# ¿ Mar 24, 2013 20:16 |
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foutre posted:Same. I like this blog for some tutorials. http://www.afashionablestitch.com/sewing-school/ Here is the section on "rubbing off" a pattern from an existing garment. http://www.afashionablestitch.com/2012/sewing/the-rub-off/ Here is a pattern from a great pattern company. http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/Patterns-Folkwear-251-Varsity-Jacket.html Funhilde fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Apr 11, 2013 |
# ¿ Apr 11, 2013 04:07 |
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Bertrand Hustle posted:My mother loaned/gave* me a brand new Singer 1116, which is apparently Babby's First Sewing Machine. Works great. Very basic, but it works great. I have a button-hole presser foot thing (which I have no idea how to use), a regular presser foot I would check out the Vogue book of sewing. It tells you how to read a pattern and install a zipper and all kinds of stuff. I would also say get an easy pattern for a skirt or PJ pants and go for it. There are also a few books out there that have patterns and easy projects included. If you go on Amazon you will see a bunch.
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# ¿ Apr 20, 2013 05:00 |
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If there is a sewing /vacuum shop you can go to I recommend checking out what they have as well. Usually they have great service plans, refurbished machines and helpful staff. You can try the machine before you buy it as well. My serger even came with classes.
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2013 06:22 |
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Yeah I prefer my regular machine for hemming jeans and the like. At least one of the bloggers I follow uses his 50s Singer on denim. I use my industrial for faux fur mostly .
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# ¿ Apr 30, 2013 20:55 |
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frenchnewwave posted:Hi thread. I'm a very amateur sewer who has made simple things like tote bags, Christmas stockings, pajama pants. I want to make a large picnic blanket that has some kind of waterproof or water resistant backing so I could (for example) lay it on damp grass. The top would have to be soft fabric as I'm mainly interested in using this to bring my infant outside to play in the park or backyard. Could you suggest a suitable fabric for the back/bottom layer? Do you think I would need a pattern or could just wing it? I apologize if this isn't the right thread to ask. Most stores these days are selling laminated fabric in cute patterns. Just use one side of that and one side of a flannel Found a cute tutorial. http://www.designsponge.com/2009/04/diy-wednesdays-picnic-blanke.html
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# ¿ May 2, 2013 03:39 |
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Faerie Fortune posted:So basically I just need to learn to be patient and forgive myself for making mistakes. I can live with that! I have all this spare fabric so I might spend today with some of the curtain material I won't really use for anything else practicing just...cutting it and making sure its straight. Practice with the spare fabric. Check out sewing blogs for tips on cutting out patterns. Take a beginner's class at a local store- fabric or sewing machine stores offer them. Craftsy.com may also have some online classes that could help too. Make sure you start with easy things and be patient
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2013 16:30 |
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Chitin posted:Something I learned in my first couple months of sewing (which I am still in): Vogue "Easy" and real person "easy" bear little relation. Yeah. Simplicity has a good easy line that I would try first.
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# ¿ Jun 10, 2013 22:20 |
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You can also get a walking foot for quilting on a regular home machine . They also work great when you have a fabric that needs extra help through the feed dogs of the machine .
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# ¿ Jun 17, 2013 05:33 |
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saint gerald posted:My wife asked me to buy her a dress form for her birthday. She wants one about a size 16. I'm not totally sewing illiterate, but I could use some general pointers. Adjustable dress forms are stupid/break too easily. You could make one or get a professional tailor's form. Don't do the form size based on her clothing size-rather use her measurements. I have several in different sizes and just pad them out to my measurements/my client's measurements to get them to work. It has been helpful esp. for the few wedding dresses I've made. Here is just one quick option: http://sewtrue.com/Store/Sew-True-Womens-Standard-Dress-Form-P850.html?utm_medium=cse&utm_source=froogle&gclid=CKnPoOGeobgCFYI-MgodMVgAUg
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# ¿ Jul 9, 2013 02:18 |
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Yeah maybe a rayon jersey. Even maybe a rayon crepe would drape like that.
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# ¿ Aug 20, 2013 08:44 |
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Comrade Quack posted:The place I asked said $185 + parts with a 3 week turn around time before I even told them what was wrong. Yeah usually it's about $150 for a full service. My repair place has plans you can buy for any machine that go for 3 years and are reasonably priced. As for the threader you can buy one that you hold yourself in the machine section of the notions wall. http://www.fabric.com/ProductDetail...CFYwWMgod4VkAbQ
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# ¿ Aug 21, 2013 15:31 |
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Mizufusion posted:I like this plan. Make sure to wash your muslin well and keep in mind that the pattern calls for a lightweight fabric on the bottom. The vogue instructions are usually pretty clear but you may consider having a book handy like the vogue sewing quick reference to help through some of the more challenging steps.
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# ¿ Aug 25, 2013 18:12 |
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Stultus Maximus posted:Does anyone know where to find child-size shoulder pads for suit construction, or at least the dimensions so I could make my own? Maybe not at a store locally but there is a store in NYC that may have them- Steinlauf and Stoller. I think they do orders over the phone but I could be wrong.
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2013 17:20 |
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Maybe consider DIY? here is just one tutorial. http://www.cutoutandkeep.net/projects/diy-shoulder-pad
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2013 19:49 |
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I also try to iron my zippers on a low setting to get any package folds out.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2013 07:11 |
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There are a few Pfaff and Bernina machines that are out there that don't have too many frills but can sew through Denim and lightweight materials. The ones we used in the costume shop in college were Bernina machines and they had 'Denim' in the name. Those two brands tend to have more metal parts and last for years and years. Here in the US you can go to a sewing machine/vacuum shop and get great refurbished or new machines for a variety of prices. They also give you a warranty so repairs can be done regularly. Something like that is great for first time machine owners.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2013 16:22 |
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Save me jeebus posted:So I am a total fashion and sewing idiot and need a little help in my quest for fabulousness. I scored a great-looking wrap dress from Salvation Army yesterday. It features 3/4 length sleeves. The sleeves have, for lack of a better descriptor, fake French cuffs. One side of the cuff has a true buttonhole; the other side is false. It's currently secured rather flimsily by a button sewn to the false buttonhole, then a thick thread through that button connects to another button which is secured into the true buttonhole, if any of that makes any sense. Structurally, it's sort of like a cufflink. Can you post a picture? It may be easier to make suggestions.
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2013 02:00 |
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Save me jeebus posted:That might help, huh? Looks like you could just get new buttons and remove the old. If you still needed distance between the one side and the other you would just make a shank between the two buttons but make it smaller than is already present. Here is a good visual tutorial on how to sew a button that way. In this case you would just have another button on the other side as well. http://manmadediy.com/users/dan_e_t/posts/2607-the-diy-tailor-how-to-sew-on-a-button
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2013 03:02 |
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Rurutia posted:Could anyone help me with identifying the fabric or make? Looks like micro-suede.
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2013 15:58 |
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I'd say these are all pretty valuable to me day to day. -Small scissors for thread clicking -Really awesome dedicated fabric shears -Double sided marking pen or Chalk marking tool -Good seam ripper -2"x 18" clear ruler -Good Iron Extras -Rotary cutter -Healing cutting mat Also get her machine from a sewing machine shop rather than a Jo-Anns or WalMart. You can probably get a great machine for a good price and the usually have warranties and classes.
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# ¿ Oct 27, 2013 22:03 |
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My shop usually has refurbished machines at good pricing and they still offer the warranty/service plans and classes.
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# ¿ Oct 28, 2013 04:52 |
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Invalid Octopus posted:Hello sewing thread. My boyfriend has a quilt that is quite sentimental to him. It's unfortunately falling apart, mostly on the non-quilt side. I think getting it in better condition would be a nice Christmas present for him. I am a pretty beginner sewer, but I have a nice machine (Brother CS6000i) I can use. I've never quilted before. Is this something I could probably fix on my own over the next month, or should I find a professional? It looks like the entire back needs to be replaced. Maybe find a quilt shop and ask if someone could help you redo it.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2013 21:35 |
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Micomicona posted:I have a quilt-chat question: I've made a couple so far, and they've been hand-quilted. This takes about a bajillion years and I don't want to hand-quilt ever again! I see a lot of ads for quilting machines, but can I quilt on a standard machine? Do I need a special foot? The whole thing is complicated by the fact that I only have very old machines; the one I'd want to use (since it is portable) doesn't even have zig-zag... There are plenty of machines that will do quilting. If you just want to do straight line quilting I think a walking foot would probably be enough and you can get them for most machines. I'm not sure for older machines if they made a walking foot but it could be worth looking into. The foot just helps to push thick layers of fabric through the machine at a regulated rate.
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2014 16:46 |
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miryei posted:I got my mom's old sewing machine recently, and have a stupid newbie question. What actually happens if the needle breaks? There's all sorts of warnings about things you can gently caress up that could make the needle break, and I have this vision in my head of ending up with half of a sewing machine needle lodged in my eye. Pieces can fly at your head/eyes, they can get stuck in your project, and they can get stuck in the bobbin casing- which can ruin your bobbin area. Here is a thing that I just sent out. For a little girl in Florida that is having a Frozen birthday party. The cape comes off and bustles for running around use. Got the white shirt for underneath but if she wants to wear it for a while I made it sleeveless for Florida weather.
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2014 03:47 |
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Bean posted:I break needles like I'm being paid. I busted three sewing my husband's first Starfleet uniform. You have nothing to worry about. Sometimes it helps to use the right needle for the project. I've been sewing for years and have just gotten used to switching up my needle as much as possible.
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# ¿ Jan 29, 2014 17:34 |
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Bean posted:My right needle on my serger comes unthreaded all the time. The machine still chains and serges, but I have two needles, I'd like to use them both. Any ideas? Maybe your screw is stripped? See about getting just that part replaced. Sewing a bunch with fleece the last two weeks. It is kind of a nice break from cat ties. Adventure Time Ski Helmet Covers Grumpy Cat Hat
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2014 06:49 |
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A friend wants a Lil' Bub hat. Can't decide how to lay it out.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2014 21:18 |
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Goldfinch posted:I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for magnetic snaps - specifically pretty weak ones. I bought some nice Dritz 3/4-inch magnetic snaps, but they're just a bit strong. I'd like something for a bag flap closure that comes apart with very little effort. Has anyone run across any like this? Maybe cover one of them to lessen it's strength.
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# ¿ Feb 17, 2014 22:20 |
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A.s.P. posted:The lil bub hat is so ! Thanks! Also thanks to either this thread or the plush thread for helping me sort out a little issue. I hadn't been using stabilizer or any iron on stuff to do the appliques and it was really messing me up. Sometimes it takes a mess up to sort out the right way to do something.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2014 03:24 |
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Trying to make a dog hat for a friend. Not sure if this looks right but I think it is close enough.
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2014 01:29 |
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Staryberry posted:I recently received my first sewing machine as a birthday present. I'd like to get a book to help me learn how to sew. My problem is that I wear a size 16-18 in store-bought clothes (I know pattern sizing is different). Most of the "Learn How to Sew" books are based on doing different patterns to try different techniques. I haven't been able to find any books that specifically include plus-size patterns. Does anyone have any book suggestions that are flexible for larger sizes? Do I simply need to start learning how to size-up patterns? If so, is there a book you'd suggest? Collete patterns has done some posts on her blog. http://www.coletterie.com/thoughts-on-sewing/grading-patterns-for-plus-sizes leads to a Craftsy class. http://www.craftsy.com/class/plus-size-pattern-fitting-and-design/133 Looks like the class teacher has a book that can help. In pattern size you are likely to fit into 20-22 but it really depends on your bust/waist/hip sizing because the patterns aren't always changed in a way that works for every type of curve.
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# ¿ Mar 23, 2014 05:20 |
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comets! posted:I'm getting started sewing and won't be able to make it to a fabric store in person for another month or so. But I already have my machine and I'm eager to get started! Currently I am just destroying old clothes and scraps I have around the house. I use quilting cottons for all kinds of things. But if you want just a circle skirt or whatever that is fine. I suggest checking out Fabric.com Cotton twill or Sateen with a bit of stretch is a nice option for a few things as well.
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# ¿ Mar 26, 2014 02:37 |
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I've made at least a couple of circle skirts out of quilting cotton. I like the drape of them. But I also make sure not to use anything that is lightweight. The problem with quilting cotton is that it isn't always consistent in it's quality.
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2014 00:48 |
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Bitter Beard posted:This hat is awesome by the way, do you make a template and then put things together or just cut out pieces and pin them then sew it together when they look good? Mostly I just cut things out and see what looks right.
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2014 02:03 |
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FISHMANPET posted:I've got a 24x18 long cutting mat, but I want to cut some 1 inch strips that are the full width of my material (in this case 1 meter, or about 39 inches). I don't want to buy a "normal" mat that's that going to be huge in both dimensions, because I don't have room for that and also it would be super expensive. Any idea what I can use to cheaply cut a long strip like that? Just fold the fabric in half? I assume you are using a rotary cutter? I have cut several layers at once this way.
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2014 16:43 |
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# ¿ Apr 27, 2024 13:40 |
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FISHMANPET posted:That's a, uh, pretty good idea. Not sure why it didn't occur to me. I run into these kind of things all the time. Making all these silly hats and I didn't think to use iron on junk to do the appliques. It has saved me HOURS.
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2014 17:25 |