Sewing and DIY fashion

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squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

seriouslywtf posted:

Okay, here it is (pre-pressing). Be gentle.

GORGEOUS! It fits you like a dream and that satin is just SO lush. Great job lining up those darts at the waist, too! Did you use a pattern? (I just want to know so I can buy it

)

# ¿ Mar 28, 2008 00:31

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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:55

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

boscokitty posted:

Have you tried a walking foot? It's a foot that hooks onto the machine in place of the regular foot (and the part the foot hooks onto) that has additional feed dogs on the top of the fabric, and the foot floats a little more than the regular one to handle several layers.

I am totally gay for my walking foot. Besides the standard and zipper feet, it's the one that gets used the most, and I don't even quilt. I originally bought it for sewing velvet, but I've used it equally well for leather and knits and slippery fabrics. I call it my magic foot because any time I'm trying to sew fabric that has a mind of its own, the walking foot solves it, like magic.

If you're a visual person, I posted photos of all my feet the other day - the walking foot is the big one on the left in the first photo.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2008 14:29

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

seriouslywtf posted:

I actually have kind of an odd question (or at least I think it's odd). For those of you who use patterns for stuff, do you save them for use again in the future? If so, do you just fold them back up and stick them somewhere, or what?

I trace all my patterns. The tissue gets folded up and shoved back into the envelope, and then after I'm done, I either punch a hole in each piece and hang on my k-rad pattern hook hanger (if it's something I think I'll reuse pretty often or use as a base for modifications later) or fold up the paper pieces and file on a shelf. Though I should really go through my oldest paper tracings and just throw a bunch away (I'm still holding onto ones from before I lost a ton of weight, which is just pointless). But yeah, I completely agree with you about the price of patterns and reusing them. This way if you want to make it for someone else or your measurements change, you don't have to buy it all over again.

# ¿ Apr 10, 2008 21:56

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

wow Goldaline, your embroidery work is amazing!! Velvet is such a bitch to work with, you can add me to the "never sewing with that loving velvet ever again" list.

# ¿ Apr 16, 2008 10:41

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

How much do I love Alexander Henry?? He and Michael Miller are my fabric designing icons, nevermind any fashion designers...

equilter have got Heavy Equipment in ivory, navy, or white for $8.95/yard. If you do a search for "Alexander Henry" on there you'll get about 50 pages' worth of his k-rad designs...

The musclemen also come in the firemen variety! (fyi, the cowboy version is called "Wranglers" if you need to search for it).

squirrellypoo fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Apr 28, 2008

# ¿ Apr 28, 2008 10:20

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

I just finished sewing up a 1950s halter dress using a vintage Porsche duvet cover I scored off eBay. I'm pretty much in love with it.

photos of the Porsche dress here...

# ¿ Apr 30, 2008 11:36

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

boscokitty posted:

I got my daughter this kit last weekend at the quilt show, and she got it done this morning. She's very pleased with it! (She's nine.)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/boscokitty/2463856685/sizes/l/

That's great work! Are those Parisian kitties I see, too?

I found out yesterday that I'm going to be published in a book next Spring! I got asked to submit a few ideas and one was accepted so now I've got to recreate it, photograph it, write out the construction instructions, but a fun and pithy bio (oh god) and photo of myself for it.

# ¿ May 4, 2008 20:46

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

Nione posted:

Something that is washable and doesn't wrinkle badly.

Linen is probably out, then. I've heard that linen blends don't wrinkle nearly as badly as 100% linen, but I've got some linen/cotton and linen/tencel blends from fabric.com to make shirts for my boyfriend and both wrinkle just from where the clothespin is holding them in my sewing room. So as soon as you sit down in it, you're going to get lines...

I'd try to steer towards natural fabrics, though linen and cotton and silk all tend to wrinkle very easily, and from your description, it sounds like even a lightweight wool crepe or summerweight wouldn't really work.

quote:

Are there online retailers that anyone recommends that have swatches you can get before you place an order?

Fabric.com are great but rather impersonal. I can highly recommend gorgeousfabrics.com - Ann who runs the shop is also a very talented sewer and honestly, I'd drop her an email with what you said here and she'd be able to send you a bunch of swatches of good stuff that'd work. Luckily time is on your side!

# ¿ May 13, 2008 08:39

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

oh yeah, I've got that pattern! Butterick re-release it every ten years or so and I snapped it up last year thinking it'd go out of print again soon. I still haven't made mine but there are TONS of those on the internet and that dress looks really nice on everyone. I've heard it needs a stupid amount of bias tape, though, so stock up at the store or get yourself a bias tape maker in preparation!

And Latte Wench - I can't really help you as my machine does about 5 stitches. I can't say I've ever found the need to have any more though really. There are a few in there that are special, like 17 and 18 are blind hem stitches and the various buttonholes look nice, but the majority are purely decorative.

# ¿ May 27, 2008 23:26

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

RichBomb posted:

Kwik Sew 3504, slightly modified. Still debating putting a cinch and a patch on the back. I'm going to hold off doing something about the knee/thigh bulk until the denim (12 oz? Can't remember) settles a little.

They look great! Awesome job on that topstitching, too.

You must tell me where you bought those nickel rivets, though - all I can ever find are the gross faux-brass ones, ugh.

Oh, and usually denim likes to shrink abit the first few times you wash them. Even if you prewashed and tumble dried before sewing, you can still expect to lose a little bit of length.

# ¿ Jun 8, 2008 11:08

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

RichBomb posted:

Just take it in for service and get a new pedal. New machines are by and large cheap plastic mehness. I sewed the jeans on the last page with a machine from the 1970's that was never sewed on, and the stitches are fairly good and the motor is stronger than most things you'll find today. Fix up what you have or go garage sale hunting this weekend (a search for "sewing" on craigslist should yield you a lot of those) and find a 5 stitch machine. No need to pay for another new inadequate piece of junk in the world when there are plenty of excellent and cheaper finds to be had.

I agree entirely!

Nione posted:

Basically I'm looking for quality, durability, and simplicity.

This describes most vintage machines absolutely perfectly.

And vstheworld - that style of dress is HUGE with the Big 4 patterns right now. Half the sewing community has been bitching for the past few seasons that that style is all they seem to be releasing right now (though Vogue is the exception, thank god). Have a look through Simplicity, Butterick, and McCall's current collections... They should be easy enough to hand hold you back into the sewing groove after your absence.

# ¿ Jun 11, 2008 14:39

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

vstheworld posted:

Thanks for the suggestions. I think Simplicity #4072 and McCalls #M5137 are pretty close, but I'm going to have to modify the sleeves. Let's hope I can catch up to speed enough to remember how to do this.

Make up a muslin out of a bedsheet or something first, and try a couple different variations of sleeve on it - the "Peasant Type Sleeve" on this page(halfway down. and minus that weird edging) might be one to try...

quote:

Also, another question. The material that BJ uses for this dress is a really heavy, smooth, 4 way stretch type fabric. The dress is really heavy. I want to use the same fabric so I can mimic the draping. Does anyone have any clue what this fabric might be called?

Was it a knit or woven? Do you know if it's shiny or matte? I don't suppose you can sneak a peek at the care label to at least get the fiber content?

I think the most difficult part of this would be finding similarly patterned fabric to make this in. Both of the ones she uses there are pretty distinctive!

# ¿ Jun 11, 2008 17:30

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

vstheworld posted:

I'm pretty sure it was a knit fabric - because knits stretch two ways and wovens only one, right?

Not necessarily! You can have knits that stretch one, two, or even four ways, and you can have wovens that don't stretch at all, or stretch one or two ways (I don't think you can have a non-stretch knit, but maybe someone else can chime in?).

Look really closely at the threads on a teeshirt and you can see that they're like little tiny Vs - that's a knit (though they're LOADS of kinds, that's the simple version). Wovens will be square patterns with distinct threads going one direction, and other threads going perpendicular.

Strangely enough, Wikipedia actually has the best explanation I could find (strange because Wikipedia hardly ever has anything but stubs for sewing info).

I just got a big order of cotton interlock, polyester wicking teeshirting, meryl wicking lycra, sweatshirt, and ribbing fabric from an outdoors fabric shop so I'm in hog heaven right now...

I hadn't bought a big load of fabrics since I was in the States last August, and I've sewn through all but three pieces of that so far!

# ¿ Jun 12, 2008 16:55

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

papermastermind posted:

And every time I've skimmed over the ladies' fashion thread (IN BOREDOM OKAY), I've always loved this dress, and I know she'd love something like it:

I normally go with sewing patterns myself, but that looks like it'd be quite easy to just draft (you MUST get accurate measurements for her bust, waist, and hip no matter what you do, though. "oh I'm a size 8" just does not cut it when you're sewing, trust me on this...). To me, that dress looks like it's two boob triangles (I'm guessing the bodice is lined, so it's four in total) with an underbust seam and the waist/skirt is just one big A-line shape, and then some spaghetti straps up top.

So just aim on constructing that, and then you can create that smocking effect by getting some elastic thread and loosely winding a bobbin with it and sewing a bunch of horizontal lines around the waist.

# ¿ Jun 16, 2008 16:49

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

Doing a shrink test is a good idea anyway, but to determine the fiber content of an unknown fabric, you'll want to do a burn test! You only need to burn a tiny bit, just enough to examine the remains and smell the fumes, bwahahah

For shrinking, I usually do something like 3 or 4 inches square. Make sure you treat the swatch however you're going to treat the finished garment, and then pretreat the whole length of fabric in the same way before cutting (so you don't end up having a garment that shrinks on the first, second, or even third wash!).

# ¿ Jun 20, 2008 22:16

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

I think the Speed Racer one is my fave.

# ¿ Jul 9, 2008 16:28

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

2-way stretch and 4-way stretch are often used interchangeably, though technically 2-way stretch is a fabric that stretches along the grain and the crossgrain, while 4-way is one that stretches those directions AND also along the bias in both directions. So 4-way stretch fabrics will work absolutely fine in a pattern that calls for 2-way stretch. You may want to check out patternreview before you start, though, as that pattern has had some mixed reviews. I'm so gay for Issy Miyake, though, that I've been so tempted to buy that one. Please post when you've finished!

I'm currently on a big knit kick, putting my new serger through its paces. I still wouldn't call it essential by any stretch (ha!) of the imagination, but it does speed things up mightily! I ended up sewing five garments this weekend, and after tackling some hi-performance running gear, I'm going to finally move on to my first swimsuit!

And I just got photos back of my granny's 1949 wedding gown which is now mine for my wedding next fall. She's pushing and threatening me and insisting I cut and change and alter it, which I'm a bit nervous about. But if my mom's measurements of a 30 inch bust(!!) are anywhere near accurate, I'm going to have to alter it anyway, hahah

# ¿ Jul 15, 2008 11:17

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

RedFish posted:

New question: has anyone every worked with bamboo fabric? I'm tempted, but have no idea how it handles, even if it's safe to press, although I'm assuming since it is a natural fiber it would be.

Bamboo is loving amazing, I'm completely addicted to the stuff from Wazoodle (though I've heard awful reports of the crap Joanns and Hancock sell from Pattern Review people). I've made three garments with it here and I cannot wait to get more (especially since they stock more colours now!).

The latest Threads has a whole feature on eco fabrics and now I really want to trty soy and tencel, too...

# ¿ Jul 26, 2008 09:19

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

RedFish posted:

I purchased some ballpoint needles (and some universal spares, very glad they fit my machine) and have some patterns that call for stretch/jerseys/knits.

I've gotten the impression, however, that working with stretch fabrics is a difficult task and am wondering where I would start in terms of learning how to work with it before I shell out for bamboo fabric.

Nope, nothing particularly difficult with knits or bamboo. If you're using a standard sewing machine, just use ballpoint needles and a narrow zigzag stitch (or if your machine's got it, the stretch stitch, though beware that those are a BITCH to rip out!). Don't stretch the fabric as you sew, or you'll get gross puckers! If you find that it's stretching of its own accord, you may want to invest in a walking foot for your machine, but it's by no means necessary. Test out your zigzag stitches on some scraps first, and stretch the scraps a bunch using varying stitch lengths and widths until the thread doesn't break when you stretch it.

And if you've been having THAT many problems with the fit of patterns, I'm going to go out on a limb here and say you're using bad patterns. There are good companies, and then there's Simplicity (oh snap!). Patterns are really good for showing you beginning techniques and the general construction order that most garments take, but after a while, you won't even need to look at the instructions at all, and when that day comes, you will discover the holy nirvana of patterns - Burda World of Fashion magazine. And Patrones (I've got my eye on a Prada dress from the last issue, omg), but those are like golddust.

# ¿ Aug 1, 2008 11:59

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

trinity3infinity posted:

- What is the standard seam allowance? I know I should add some length and I usually do a 3/8" allowance when sewing unless another is indicated in the pattern that I am following.

5/8" or 1/2" are the most common, but if you're drafting your own pattern, you'll make your life much easier to make up your pattern without any seam allowances, then add them on when you cut your fabric (that way you can "walk the seams" on the pattern and make sure everything matches up, and if you need to alter it, you don't have to subtract the s.a.s, alter, then add them back on!

As far as commercial patterns go, Jalie are known for their activewear, and they have a ballet unitard pattern that might work for you. Necklines are pretty trivial to change...

quote:

- I have an idea of how to do darts based on previous experience, but considering that I will be using a spandex type fabric I am unsure if darts will be necessary.

No, you won't need them.

quote:

- Since it's been a while since I've worked with stretch fabric and I don't remember what type of needle I should use to use with my machine.

Either a ballpoint or a stretch needle, depending on your fabric, and you'll want to pick up a twin needle or two for hems, also.

And Goldaline, your method made perfect sense to my eyes, anyway.

# ¿ Aug 20, 2008 10:43

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

trinity3infinity posted:

I am thinking of buying the fabric online. I could go around town where I live to try to find bright green and bright yellow spandex, but I am thinking that I would rather pay a little extra for S+H to get exactly what I want. Are there any online vendors that anyone would recommend? I've looked at https://www.spandexworld.com and it has the colors I want at an okay price. Other places I've looked either don't have the right colors or it's a wholesaler.

I've seen other sewers go on and on about Spandex House, so it might be worth checking there, too.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2008 10:29

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

Ashcans posted:

1) The pattern is for denim; one of the reasons I picked it was that this seemed closer in weight to a leather than other patterns for wool or fleece. What sort of things do I need to watch out for, being as I'm making it out of a different material?

Yeah, the weights between denim and leather are usually pretty similar (unless you get the really buttery soft leather, which would be thinner). One thing is that leather doesn't have grainlines so you can ignore that totally and just place the pieces however you can.

Leather isn't that difficult to sew, but main things to remember:

use a leather needle in your machine
use a teflon or roller foot
any holes in leather are permanent and will weaken it, so you cannot use pins. Binder clips or even rubber cement can temporarily hold pieces if you need it
Be very sure of your seams before you sew, because you can rip out stitches but the holes will remain (I'd highly recommend sewing a muslin in a cheaper, more forgiving fabric first!)

quote:

2) What material options do I have for this? I've worked with leather before but not to actually make a whole garment. It's also expensive, and I worry about not being able to fit the whole pattern on one side and ending up with different shades. Is there a decent synthetic product that I could use? If I go for actual leather, any idea what sort of weight I should aim at?

Are you planning on wearing this at all after Halloween, or is it just a costume? I think that should answer whether you should spend the money on real leather or synthetics... I buy my skins (for purses, mostly) from some of the leather jacket shops around my office. They usually have a few holes in the middle meaning they can't use them for big pieces, but they're perfect for smaller bag pieces and it means I can get a handbag out of a skin or two, about �20ish, which is way cheaper than buying elsewhere. So it might be worth asking a leather shop near you if they sell any seconds.

Sorry, I've got no idea about weights since I just go by feel...

Also, the selvedge on selvedge jeans is just on the outseam? Colour me stupid, I've never seen any myself and thought it ran up both sides and the denim came off really narrow looms... Oops. In that case, all denim is selvedge, you just have to do the pattern layout right.

# ¿ Aug 27, 2008 11:59

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

Ashcans posted:

I suspected that I would need some new needles, but I admit I had no idea there were so many different feet for sewing machines. I'm assuming that I will need to match the foot to my machine, so I'll have to check the model when I get home and do some research. Are feet generally interchangeable? Can I take the current foot to a store and match it, or is it more complicated?

In general there are only a few sizes of feet: snap on (just the bottom bit), low shank (with a short vertical bit sticking up), and high shank (with a longer vertical bit), though there are just as many exceptions so don't assume anything. And if you get the wrong kind for your machine you're pretty much out of luck. Google search for your machine and model and you should hopefully be able to figure out which type yours takes, then just hit up eBay. My machine is really weird and is a Googlewhack, but I can just buy any low shank foot and they work fine.

Oh, and add a walking foot to my above recommendations for leather - they're expensive, but I use mine all the time. I've got some photos of my machine feet collection here if you want to ID any against eBay (I don't have a teflon foot, though - I personally use rolling or walking for leather).

quote:

Can I seam leather in the same ways I would regular heavy fabrics?

Pretty much, yeah. Though doing anything really bulky like flat felled seams might require the use of a hammer.

quote:

I can't imagine getting a hold of enough matching leather at less than $2/sqft, so if I can find a synthetic at $15/yd it would come out on top. The problem is partly that I don't really know what would be a sbustitute; I know the OP says that Hancocks et al is crap, but would it be worth going there to actually handle some alternatives? I suppose I should check upholstery suppliers, as well.

Sure, knock yourself out. You might find some synthetics in the upholstery dept, though whether it'll be any good or not, I can't say.

At least you're smart and getting a head start on Halloween with this!

# ¿ Aug 28, 2008 17:09

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

That bear is adorable and just so amazingly perfect! It really does look like one of the fine, German heirloom bears. Excellent work!

# ¿ Sep 11, 2008 12:25

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

ludosti posted:

I need a good source for some organic fabrics (jersey, flannel, and fleece). I've found a few online retailers just using google, but does anyone actually have any experience and can recommend a couple to me?

Wazoodle have a bunch of Eco fabrics - I've only ever used their bamboo jersey, which is AWESOME. Threads magazine also had an eco fabric special a few issues ago and they've put the supplier list online.

# ¿ Sep 12, 2008 17:03

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

BrideOfUglycat posted:

For example, how do you end a stitch once you reach the end of where you want to sew (like a seam or a hem)?

You can either pull one thread to the other side and tie the ends together, or what I normally do - backstitch a few stitches, then go forward again, then clip the tails. Done!

# ¿ Sep 24, 2008 17:08

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

That looks AWESOME. You've done such a good job on it! I'm not sure what you meant by the buttonholes, are they bound?

I started working on my first winter coat in July as part of The Great Coat Sew Along that like 100 people on the internet are doing but I completely lost all momentum on it and now am really bored with the whole thing. But I've put so much expense into that I really just need to suck it up and work on it instead of making lots of quick, pretty, and fun projects that take my whim. But that's mostly because I'm a really impatient sewer...

So therefore I'm also jealous that you've completed yours!

# ¿ Oct 10, 2008 17:58

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

kryptonik posted:

Can any of you guys tell me how you'd recommened repairing a crotch blowout on a pair of jeans?
It's only a small area that is beginning to rip, but I'd like to nip it in the bud.

Is it at the seam or in the middle of the fabric? A photo would help a lot...

# ¿ Nov 20, 2008 17:42

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

TinuvielDancing posted:

Do any of you know of a good place to find wedding dress patterns? I've looked in all the basic sewing pattern websites (Simplicity, Vogue, McCalls) and just don't see anything I like. Other formal-wear type patters would work as well.

Have you checked out Burda? There's also a huge formalwear special in the December Burda magazine (which includes about 50+ patterns) that is worthing looking over. They only do formalwear a couple times a year so it's worth grabbing if you like anything.

Other than that, you could try vintage pattern shops like Lanetz Living or any of the ones listed on the right here, but be aware that most of these will only come in one size, rather than a range. There's also Folkwear that do a few fancy dresses, or also BurdaStyle who are showcasing some formalwear right now.

I suppose it all depends on what style you're going for, and if you have the "eye" to see beyond a crappy photoshoot and polyester satin to see if a dress's seam lines and style are what you want. If you're not great at looking at tech drawings, it might be better to find a dress you like on some bridal site then ask advice somewhere like Pattern Review about what patterns could recreate it.

# ¿ Nov 25, 2008 11:45

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

WestofEden posted:

So reading this thread finally got me amped up about sewing again, yay! So now I have a little over a week to whip up my a dress for my office Holiday Party. I chose this Butterick pattern http://www.butterick.com/item/B5032.htm??tab=dresses&page=5 I'm going to do the one with the sash, and I chose a hot pink brocade with cherry blossoms. I'll post pictures once I make some progress on it.

Cute!! I absolutely love the Butterick and Vogue vintage reissues! The cherry fabric sounds gorgeous, too.

quote:

Anyway, I can't wait to see more of whatever everyone else is working on!

Since you asked, here's some of what I've been up to in the last two months...

grey skinny jeans

purple wool sweater

silk pyjamas (christmas gift)

hoodie for my nephew (birthday gift)

hoodie for me

Tweed and satin three piece suit

Right now I'm working on two more Christmas gifts before I can get back to working on my grey and purple wardrobe plans (of which the grey jeans and purple sweater are a part). I'm midway through something for my (goon) fiance, and the Hannah Montana-branded fabric for my 6 year old niece's Christmas outfit just arrived today. I'm going to make her knit trousers, a teeshirt, and a polo poo poo in part HM print and part pink knit. Mostly because I need to use up all the HM stuff or risk it rotting in my stash...

# ¿ Nov 25, 2008 18:10

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

seriouslywtf posted:

I made a top out of this pattern as well! I (personally) wasn't super impressed with it, but it turned out well, technically speaking.

Really? It's a pretty new pattern so I think I'm the only review of it on Pattern Review - you should consider posting on there if you don't already, it's really helpful for feedback as well as figuring out which patterns to buy.

The only thing I was disappointed by was that the tech drawing was misleading in the collar area. I really like the end result and I've worn mine tons in the past few weeks (it doesn't hurt that it's wool and therefore REALLY warm, too). What didn't you like about it?

# ¿ Nov 26, 2008 17:49

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

moana posted:

Ok, I am making pajama pants for my boy for Christmas. I'm using flannel fabric - is there a particular kind of thread that I should buy? I imagine cotton thread will do the trick, double seamed at the crotch to reinforce?

Polyester thread is way stronger than cotton - either go for all polyester or cotton-coated polyester. Coats seem to be the ubiquitous thread brand in the States, but frankly, I can't stand the stuff. Gutterman 4 lyfe, yo.

(and make sure you prewash that flannel before you cut it up - cotton loves to shrink and it's better to shrink before you've sewn than end up with clamdiggers afterwards!)

# ¿ Dec 2, 2008 11:34

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

seriouslywtf posted:

So, I finally got around to setting up the serger I got for Christmas. That thing is a motherfucking bitch to thread.

That is all.

I find tweezers and an LED headlamp to be absolutely essential for threading mine.

Also, if you're using wooly nylon in the loopers (which is awesome stuff), tie the ends onto a short length of regular thread at the very end and feed the regular thread through the looper eyes to pull the nylon through. At least on mine, the placement of the loopers means it's impossible to get those metal-head needle threader things to work...

# ¿ Jan 18, 2009 00:36

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

4R7 THi3F posted:

I decided to cheat a bit and use a really nice polyester charmeuse instead of silk charmeuse. Silk charmeuse is the worst thing to sew in the world, but it was actually pretty easy to sew the polyester.

Ugh, polyester next to your skin is just so gross, though! Especially for lingerie, it'd be really hot and sweaty and clinging, bleurg. I thought for sure that such a beautiful design would be silk.

(great idea to use bias strips instead of pleats, though! I've got to remember that!)

Personally I adore sewing with silk charmeuse. As long as you use a brand new Microtex needle and finish your seam allowances (either with French seams or linings or bindings), it's really not difficult at all and garments made of it just make me happy to wear or even just touch them. The pocket linings in my super-warm winter coat are done in silk charmeuse scraps and it makes me happy every time I put my hands in them!

Funnily enough, I just started getting into making lingerie, too. Though I've not tried a camisole yet - I just finished a bra, pantie, and thong this morning before work.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2009 11:41

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

Triangulum posted:

Can anyone recommend some sites with patterns similar to Sublime Stitching? I used to do embrodery when I was younger but got pretty fed up with the fruity patterns.

Urbanthreads.com has a lot of cool stuff, but I'm just getting into embroidery myself...

Also, I just found out today that a store I can see through the window sitting at my desk at work is the new distributor of Sublime Stitching in the UK (Tatty Devine), woop!

# ¿ Feb 21, 2009 00:50

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

DeliciousDarkness posted:

the metal things are called grommets (like the holes on Chuck Taylor sneakers). They're similar to eyelets, but eyelets only have one part and the bottom part splits to make the back. Grommets have two parts, the front rounded part (the word escapes me right now) and a back washer. The front piece has a lip that rounds/rolls down over the washer and isn't meant to split. It's stronger, smoother, and nicer looking, and stays in much better under duress.

Huh! Thanks for that - I had no idea what the difference was before!

And your work is absolutely beautiful. I've only ever put boning into high waisted trousers and strapless dresses before, which is like hamfisted child's play compared to all that channeling.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2009 12:03

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

Octoduck posted:

I need to lower the crotch area of a flight suit and was wondering how difficult/possible it would be?

Ooh, lowering the crotch is really easy on trousers. Turn them inside out, and put one leg inside the other so you can see the crotch curve, then just sew a new curve a bit below the original one, and trim off the old seam allowance. It seems counter-intuitive, but think of it like you're creating more space for the body...

# ¿ Mar 24, 2009 12:03

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

RichBomb posted:

But in the mean time I have a 7 by 7 airplane munitions box that I need to convert into a cutting and ironing table. I've been told that plywood with 1 - insul bright 2 - cotton batting (for extra padding) 3 - cotton twill will do me well for the ironing bit and just to get cutting mats for the other side. Any suggestions?

If you're putting that much effort into making your own cutting/ironing table, you may want to consider going an extra few steps and make yourself a grain board (god it just took me 15 minutes of searching through my sewing blogs to find that post, guh).

And I love the worn-in look of the first pair of jeans, I can't believe how well the denim has aged. I've got a pair I made almost exactly a year ago out of super-thick Levis denim, wearing them 2-3 times a week all year, and they've barely worn at all. Do you wash and tumble dry them on high heat or something?

Seriously, it seems like everyone is sewing jeans right now, it must be the season for it (though I know you do all year round). I just finished another pair myself, with these really weird seamlines and a bit of the front wraps around all the way to the CB. I'll post photos in a few days when it's up on my site.

# ¿ Apr 7, 2009 11:07

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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 06:55

squirrellypoo: Feb 8, 2003

All the jeans bitching in the Ladies Shopping thread reminded me to post my recently sewn jeans in here...

They're from the Jan 09 edition of KnipMode magazine (Dutch language pattern mag) and they've got these weird "arms" on the front piece that curve around and extend all the way to the centre back to meet itself. And then the back piece has one, long, curved seam above the bum. Topstitching both the inseam AND the outer seam was a huge PITA but I'm really, really happy with the fit of these (I really, truly don't have a massive muffin top like the first photo would have you believe).

Loads more photos and topstitching tips, etc over here

And Haaat!, I've heard nothing but good things about the Winifred Aldrich book, it's been on my Amazon wishlist for like 3 years now.

There are a couple reviews of each on Pattern Review, btw - Metric Pattern Cutting and Patternmaking for Fashion Design.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2009 12:12

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