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Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
Well, it looks like I'll be playing bass in a band now, so it's time to sell some guitar gear. I've nearly finished lining up a trade for a used MIM P-Bass with a gig bag and hard case.

Which brings me to this:

PenguinBob posted:

A lot of people also swap out the stock bridge. Many will recommend the Leo Quan Badass II, which is a lot more massive than the stock bridge and apparently leaves a lot more high harmonics in the sound. You would have to file the saddles yourself. There's also the Gotoh 201, which is also heavier but is mechanically the same as a stock Fender bridge, and will sound similar. I've still got the stock bridge on my old Jazz, FWIW.

I was thinking about doing this, and I was wondering what you meant by "filing the saddles yourself." Is the Badass II not fully set up from the factory?

EDIT: Might as well just add my next question to this post:
I'm selling my old Tokai Strat to get money for bass gear, and someone wants to trade me for a Larrivee bass from the 80's. Assuming it's in decent shape, would this be a good deal?

Juaguocio fucked around with this message at 10:44 on Feb 18, 2008

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Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Stop Motion Dong posted:

Is this bass any good for starting out?
http://www.rondomusic.com/product1081.html
I'll mainly be playing rock/metal.

For rock/metal you'll definitely want something with a longer scale length. 34' is the industry standard.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

PoorPeteBest posted:

God drat I'd love to see me a 34 foot scale length bass.

Haha, I take it inches are indicated with a quotation mark then?

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Akur0 posted:

nope I'm saving my money for other things

and that isn't the right bass tab, this is.

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/tabs/t/toadies/possum_kingdom_ver2_btab.htm

I could tell right away when I noticed the chords were missing, it's the only part that's given me issues in all honesty and I almost have it down.

*edit*
I tried learning this and it's wayyyy too hard for me at the moment.

http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/tabs/m/maximum_the_hormone/whats_up_people_btab.htm

I think that tabs are almost completely useless except for the most basic songs. I recommend trying to learn songs by ear. It will be very difficult at first, and you probably won't understand the relationships between the notes, but eventually you'll start to recognize patterns and how they fit together, especially if you read up on

Jan posted:

fundamental octaves and scales
Start by identifying the most fundamental notes in a song. If you can figure out what key something is in and combine that with a basic scale like the pentatonic, a lot of stuff will just fall into place. Tabs can certainly be useful, but I see them as training wheels- you don't want to rely on them for too long.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
Many Gibson EB basses are short scale, and I don't think anyone would make fun of Jack Bruce, Felix Pappalardi or Allen Woody.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Seventh Arrow posted:

I guess stuff that would be in the "not too advanced" area would be:

Any James Brown stuff.

The slower stuff, sure, but some of his hard funk is just nuts, especially the stuff with Bootsy. Excellent endurance practice, though. I like to throw on "Love Power Peace" and play along until my fingers can't take it anymore. Lately I've been checking out a lot more funk and soul, and the Bar-Kays album "Soul Finger" would be a good bet for some simple, groovy bass lines. I like the Free suggestion; other classic blues rock bands with fairly easy bass parts that I can think of off the top of my head are Leaf Hound and Blue Cheer.

You also might want to try learning some reggae lines - they're generally fairly simple and repetitive, so you can really work on getting the syncopation down.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Laserface posted:

Tunneling - for example, playing 3rd fret on E and 1st on A - the finger on E is making a tunnel over the A string. Its probably called something else but thats what I was told it was called.

You're the first person I've heard use that term. If you're really struggling with your fretting hand, try adjusting the height of your bass; a change in the angle of the neck in relation to my hand solved most of my fretting problems.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
Oddly enough, I've come to realize that P-basses don't work for me at all. I'm getting a luthier friend of mine to help me Frankenstein an SX five string into a configuration that will hopefully work better.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

gotly posted:

Might be picking up an Avatar 212 on the cheap. It's the 8 ohm version. The way I understand it, is I want a bass head that's rated as close to 500 watts (the cabs limit) as possible at 8 ohm. Does anyone have any suggestions on a bass head to put on top of this avatar?

I use a GK 1001RB-II with mine. It's supposed to put out 480 watts at 8 ohms so it's just about perfect.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Dyna Soar posted:

I ended up getting a 5-string set, heaviest is 125. God drat my fingers are sore after 3 hours of playing :D

I really need to practise more on these strings, the tone is a shitload better but drat my soft little fingers aren't used to this abuse. I might try 130 the next time but right now I'm really satisfied with this set.

I think .125 is a good gauge for C. I used a D'addario Chromes 5-string set for a while, but the tension was too much for me on the higher strings. I swapped those out for a lighter set, but now the .132 low C is unbalanced with the rest of the strings. I think I'm going to try Labellas next, since the tension and gauge of their 5-string flats seems a bit more in line with my needs.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

baka kaba posted:

What's been you guys' experience with learning basslines by ear? I'm pretty bad at hearing notes and intervals and so on, but with guitar work I can generally hear the sound at least - it's usually way less distinct with bass, because of the mixing and maybe because the frequencies are closer together? I was just wondering if other people had this problem and what you did to get around it. I have got better, but it's still a bit of a struggle with some songs

It helps to be able to mess around with the EQ of a song to get the bass to pop out a bit better. I can usually get good results with Winamp - just turn down the treble and boost the low mids and the bass usually becomes much more audible.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
I'm a Sabbath devotee, and I especially love Geezer's lines on their earlier stuff like War Pigs, Fairies Wear Boots, Sweet Leaf, Lord Of This World and Into The Void. Their later albums are too cheesy for me, but tracks like Johnny Blade and Children Of The Sea have excellent bass lines that are a ton of fun to play.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

AlphaDog posted:

Another stupid question - how do I arrange things on an Ibanez GSR200 so the E string isn't quite so "boomy"? It's got a distinctly different sound from the other strings, to the point where it's really noticeable. Turning down the 'Phat II EQ' knob fixes the E string, but the rest of the strings sound really washed out. Anything I can do, or do I need to play more gently?

Try adjusting the height of the pickups or changing the height of the strings via the bridge to even things out. You might have to experiment a bit.
While on the subject of great riffs, check out these two from Bootsy Collins. The guy who plays in those videos has an excellent channel where he demonstrates all kinds of classic bass lines from Jamerson and others.

Juaguocio fucked around with this message at 10:38 on Jul 27, 2010

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
You're probably gonna want to run that sucker through as many speakers as possible to get the most out of it. I've heard that the AD200 works well with 15s, which makes sense since Orange also makes a TL606 style cab.

Also, people break bass strings? I didn't even know that was possible. I've been using the same flats for over a year now.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

baka kaba posted:

I'm learning the Cake version of I Will Survive and it's mostly a lot of roots, octaves, minor sevenths and fifths - when you're playing this kind of thing do you tend to keep a bar going with your first finger (for the roots and 7ths) or just fret the notes as they come? It's fairly fast and my tendency is to fret them individually, I'm just wondering if I'm making it harder on myself by not keeping my finger in one place

I have honestly never heard of anyone using a barring technique on bass. I thought that was strictly a guitar thing.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Manky posted:

I bar sometimes when I play - off the top of my head, I can think of a few songs where I always bar. Don't worry about it. If it helps you, do it. No one's gonna call you out on it. I did it before I learned to play guitar at all, too.

Yeah, I didn't mean to suggest that barring isn't practical, or that it might not work for you- I have just personally never felt the need to, and I haven't seen many players do so either.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Roflsaurus Wrecks posted:

I have a question about practicing. What are some good technique exercises? I know this is very dependent on what one is trying to improve, but I'm looking for two or three general technique exercises to do for 5-10 minutes each once or twice a day that, combined, will touch on finger dexterity and speed and all that jazz.

I'm also looking for a good picking exercise. I've recently decided that I like the sound of a pick much more than finger playing, and that many of my favorite bassists use(d) picks (Nick Oliveri, Chris Squire, and the dude from Acid Bath come to mind). I'm having trouble building speed and accuracy with the pick (skipping strings is pretty rough so far), so I'm looking for some practice in that department too.

Thanks in advance.

This one is pretty good for developing independence for each finger as well as accuracy while string skipping. Try to use one finger per fret (ie. index on the 5, pinky on the 8) and avoid changing hand positions. Start off nice and slow with the first one, then move on to the really stretchy ones.

G----7--8--7--8--
D--5--6--5--6----
A-----------------
E-----------------

G----7--8--7--8--
D-----------------
A--5--6--5--6----
E-----------------

G----7--8--7--8--
D-----------------
A-----------------
E--5--6--5--6----

Try it out with different picking patterns- I find it works very well for practicing alternate picking. You can move the pattern to any other position as well.

Juaguocio fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Sep 26, 2010

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Scarf posted:

Chromes are good too, but they're definitely among the brightest flatwounds you'll find.

TI's are good, but carry a very low tension. I've found them to be waaaaay too loose for my playing style. Also, they're retardedly expensive...

Also, flats sound way better as they age.

Chromes are unpleasantly bright right out of the package, but after you break 'em in a bit they have a wonderful warmth that lasts for a very long time. I've recently started using GHS Precision Flats and I like them quite a bit too.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

gotly posted:

Bottom line, I like to get a lot of different sounds out of my amp.

Forget about the 1001RB-II then. I've been using one for a while with my Avatar 2x12 and it takes a lot of fiddling to get it to sound decent, and even then it only really works for clean sounds since the drive is buzzy and horrible. I would recommend the 800RB over any of GK's newer amps if you're looking to stay with that company- it sounds much warmer and fatter, the gain is much more musical and therefore usable, and although its rated power is less than what you have now, it would absolutely roar through a setup like your 2x10 + 2x12.

As for me, I'm ditching GK in favour of Genz-Benz. I was impressed by the Shuttle 6.0 that I played in a local store, and when I saw a 9.0 for a very reasonable price on eBay I couldn't resist.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Scarf posted:

Honestly if you're going to spring for the 9.0, you should really look at the ShuttleMAX 12.0. So much more versatile.

I thought about that too, but it's more power than I would ever need. Plus, I'm really not into the channel-switching double-speaker-load thing- gimme one channel that sounds good and I'm happy.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
Anyone have any experience with Speakon connectors? I bought a used Speakon to 1/4" adapter after I realized my new Shuttle 9 doesn't have 1/4" jacks, and it's giving me nothing but grief. I got no sound out of the Shuttle, and now the drat thing is stuck in the jack. I Googled "stuck speakon" and there's not a lot of advice out there. Several people mentioned that it's easy to insert it the wrong way around and get it stuck, but mine's the right way up, and it locks and unlocks without any difficulty, just doesn't want to come out of the socket. Did I gently caress something up or did I get a bad cable?

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

DrChu posted:

You are twisting the cable after you unlock it, right?

Yes, isn't that how the locking mechanism works?

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

DrChu posted:

On one of my cables, there's a collar around the jack that you have to pull up, then you can twist the cable out. My other cable is similar, but instead of a full collar there's just a switch you move then twist.

I think mine is the "collar" variety. The collar moves and the cable twists, but it ain't budging. I don't want to mess the jack up so I'm just gonna take the whole amp to the store where I bought the cable, plunk it down and say "what gives?"

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
Got my Speakon problem sorted- turns out the cable had a bad end so they took it apart and put on a new one. Long and Mcquade may be a big box store but their customer service is excellent.



In other news, this thing rules. Absolutely destroys my GK on all fronts.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

scuz posted:

:smith: I'll never give up my 800RB unless it dies then I'm just getting a new one.

The 800RB is a really nice amp, and I actually like it a lot better than the 1001RB-II and its ilk. Keep it!

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
Flats are just lovely. I can't see myself going back rounds ever. It's pretty hard to find a decent flatwound B string though.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Ferrous Wheel posted:

As for flatwound B strings, I've heard good things about La Bella, D'Addario, Thomastik, and even Sadowsky. I'm sure you've tried some of those and I know it's very much a matter of individual taste but plenty of players seem quite happy with the available crop of five string flat sets. Have you had bad experiences with any particular brand?

I tune to C and use a pick 99% of the time so my needs are probably different than most people. I like D'addario Chromes for standard tuning but their B string has too much tension for me, and it "clanks" excessively. The TI B string probably won't work for me because the gauge is too big, but I am definitely going to try a set of their flats since low tension is what I look for. I'm currently using a GHS Precision Flat B, and while it's better than the D'addario it's nothing spectacular. I'll probably try a Labella next.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
I've always heard that the ideal hand position is the thumb at the back of the neck aligned with the middle finger, and while this works well for most positions it makes playing some things very difficult, especially on the lower strings on a 5-string bass. In those situations I move my thumb more to the side to allow a more "diagonal" approach for my fretting hand, and while this may not be the greatest technique it works just fine, and I figure as long as I can reach the notes comfortably it doesn't really matter.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

DEUCE SLUICE posted:

If you like the 800RB, what about the 1001RB?
They sound nothing alike. The 800 is warm and gritty while the 1001 is super loud and clean. I think that the 800 sounds better than any of GK's newer amps.

DEUCE SLUICE posted:

Honestly man, with a loud band 300 solid state watts just isn't going to cut it.
I've seen bass players for SERIOUSLY loud metal bands using 800s and most of them have sounded great. I've used one myself on a couple different occasions with a rock band running two 100 watt half stacks and had no problem hearing myself. The 800 is not a clean amp by any definition so it sounds a lot louder than its power rating might indicate.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

scuz posted:

These are two reasons why I don't wanna bail on my 800RB. It used to be that looking for new amps was sorta fun, but it's such a chore now.

One of my bass heroes uses an 8x10 Ampeg with his 800RB and he does just fine, but he's obviously got some good PA support going. I think if I decided to go ahead and straight-up murder myself, that would be the way to go. We have the means of transporting it, so the only problem is moving the drat thing. I'll just go to town and custom-build some runners or something, I dunno.

8x10s actually aren't as hard to move as you might think. It takes a couple people to lift one but if it has a good set of tilt-back casters one person can roll it around with ease. I like the way Traynor does their 8x10s - they have a set of handles on the bottom as well as the top so two people can easily carry one up a flight of stairs.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Vino posted:

Haha, sorry. I'm not much of an audiophile, just calling it like it is.

That's not the way it is.

Vino posted:

In my experience in live situations all of that quality high end just leaves and all you can hear is the note so as long as that note is there I'm happy.

As NarkyBark said, if you take the time to tweak your band's EQ and levels this should not be a problem. Guitars, bass and drums should ideally occupy their own frequency ranges within the mix and not compete for the same sonic space. I've found that using a bass amp with a parametric mid in the preamp is very useful for dialing in the exact tonal "center" that enables me to cut through a dense mix.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Squibbles posted:

My wife got me a snazzy Rondo SX bass for Christmas, woo!

I bought some replacement strings to try out (DR brand, heavy - .110 thickness) and on new year's eve my friend and I tried swapping them. When we got to the third string it got hooked on the string tree and I ended up snapping the string at the tuner. Most unfortunate, but lesson learned. I put the old string back on and snapped that one too! I looked at another bass in a music store on new year's day and noticed they had wound the strings around the tuners from the top of the post down toward the bottom, I guess I had made the mistake of doing the opposite. When I got new strings, I also made sure to push down the string on either side of the string tree to equalize the pressure on both sides.

So, now my bass has the only strings the sole music store that was open on January 1st had in stock which was chrome flatwounds. Of course as I was putting those on I put the fattest string on last and got a rude awakening of another tricky thing with the Rondo bass. The hole in the bridge where the strings go through was too small to fit the thread wrapped end of the string. I ended up having to cut off the thread to get the string to fit.

I'm sure my ear is too poor at this point to detect any real difference in tone anyway :) But, now to actually learn!

Oh, also, the guy at the music store said the string tree seemed to be awfully close to the nut. It's almost parallel to the first tuner. The bass he showed me in the store had the tree more between the 2nd and third tuners. Also the rondo string tree looked less likely to let strings slide smoothly back and forth. You can see the location of the string tree in this photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/mwoodbury/5225084547/

He said it should be pretty easy to move it further up the head. Should I look into doing that? I'm not really positive what the point of a string tree even is. Also if I was going to move it I'd probably want to look into getting one that would allow the strings to move more easily back and forth for tuning.

I had many of the same problems with my SX 5er- they're obviously using very cheap parts to keep costs down. I ended up replacing the bridge on mine with a Schaller roller bridge, and I'll probably swap that out for a Badass V in the future.

String trees are often necessary on Fender style basses because the distance the strings have to travel to the tuners means that they break over the nut at a shallow angle. The trees/retainers make the angle steeper to improve tuning stability and eliminate buzzing. The problem with SX string retainers is that they're garbage- I replaced mine with a nice Hipshot: http://store.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=236

Juaguocio fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Jan 6, 2011

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
I should have mentioned that all the actual work was done by my luthier friend. All I do is pester him with endless changes and modifications. I should also note that the Schaller roller bridge is actually a fairly poor design; the saddles are so long that I can't intonate my low C string properly and the rollers themselves are prone to slipping out of position. This is two strikes against Schaller for me, as I also found their straplocks to be inferior to Dunlop's. The Badass on my other bass seems to be a much simpler, more solid design so I'm eager to try the 5-string version.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

These Loving Eyes posted:

By the way, are the cheap Kustom heads and cabs just pure crap?

I can't speak from experience, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say "yes." I actually had no idea that the Kustom brand had been revived.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Scarf posted:

I'm pretty dead set on jumping ship to go to Genz Benz though

Joinnnnn ussssss...

Speaking of Genz, I dig the concept behind their Uber cabs but the form factor doesn't really do it for me. I wish they could somehow take the Uber 410 with its massive excursion and turn it into a more vertically aligned cab like their Neo line.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
You really don't need much distortion to get a gnarly, aggressive bass sound. Even if you use a bass-oriented overdrive pedal, it's very easy to dial in too much fuzz and disappear entirely from a mix, especially if it's a dense multi-instrument one. I wouldn't want to use anything more than a light overdrive for bass unless I was in a sludge doom band where fuzz is the desired result. In fact, I play in a loud two-guitar rock band running straight into a Genz Benz Shuttle 9 with just a slight bit of tube grit from the preamp, and I have no problems cutting through.

As BBW Fever said, the most important thing is always technique. I've been developing my fingerstyle lately since it's always nice to have that option, and it's also a good backup to have in case I drop a pick and don't have a spare. Been trying out some Billy Sheehan three-finger stuff just for the hell of it and it's pretty fun. Getting my ring finger up to speed with the other two is pretty tricky, though, specially since I never used it when I was a guitar player.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

Cumfartcocktails posted:

I normally leave all three tone knobs cranked on the bass with the pickups about 60% bridge 40% neck.

Wait, you have a bass with a 3-band EQ and you're diming all three controls? I'd say that's your problem right there.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...
It's taken me a long time to figure out how to get the sound I want while playing pickstyle. I actually prefer the sound of a bass played fingerstyle, but I prefer the technique of using a pick. The solution that worked for me was to switch to flatwound strings, which cut a lot of the excessive brightness of rounds played pickstyle, and change my EQ settings so I'm cutting bass and adding low mids to compensate for the inherent bassiness of flats.

I play in a loud 4 piece rock band and I can get pretty close to the Geezer Butler "WHOMP" sound from Master of Reality, which fits perfectly between the kick drum and guitars.

Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

These Loving Eyes posted:

Could somebody give me a quick rundown or a link to some brief, layman-oriented site about bass amplification? Even though I've played bass for a while, I didn't start playing in a band until last summer. So, this far I've been using some 100 watt Fender solid-state amp from the 90s that happened to be lying around at the rehearsal place but would want to upgrade now. My budget is around 600 euros / dollars and I'm looking for something that would be loud enough for both bar and bigger gigs. I know that amps are often micced and thus played through PAs but I don't think a 300 - 400 watt amp would hurt.

So, what kind of head + cab combinations, solid-states or hybrids would you recommend? I'm looking for a vintageish, warm sound since the stuff we're playing is a mix between 70s rock n' roll and some funky vibrations. Sterile and cold tones are the bane of my ears. I know that with 600 euros my choices are more than limited but I guess I'm not looking for 2000 dollar Ampegs or anything like that.

Some stuff I've considered:
Ashdown 550 W 2X10 Combo Spyder
Marshall MB4210 450 W
or
Kustom DE 300 HD head (I've heard both good and bad stuff about this one)
with
Kustom DE410H cab

Also, Ashdown has a few budget-priced heads and cabs I've been thinking.

Check out the Amps FAQ on Talkbass, and if you need specific information that's not contained in there, just do a search of their forums.

I would actually recommend putting some Talkbass FAQ links in the OP because they're much more comprehensive than anything we could come up with.

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Juaguocio
Jun 5, 2005

Oh, David...

ObsidianBeast posted:

I just bought an Ibanez SR305 last night, since it was the most comfortable one I tried at the store. Any other 5-string players here? I'm loving having the lower D available without messing with the tuning.

Yep, but I actually tune my 5 to standard D/drop C with a high A#. I like being able to go a full two octaves without having to change my hand position much.

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