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My cat puked on the scarf I am knitting today.  Should I try to wash it off on the needles or just keep going? Or just move on? that's also a possibility.
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Mar 9, 2012 06:24
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evelynevvie posted:Hi knitters! I've been teaching myself to knit for a few months. I am a babby and dont know anything about yarn and I need a little bit of help. I recently chose some Lion Brand Homespun yarn. It's mostly acrylic but its very soft and i fell in love with the color (mixed berry). I'm not sure if I got a bad skein, or if this yarn is just awful. The thickness keeps changing from bulky to super skinny to super super puffy. It is kind of fuzzy which is fine, but the huge texture changes are making me nuts. Is this normal? I have several big name craft stores nearby but no LYS's. Ha. I have some of this stuff that I bought probably 10 years ago and still can't figure out a use for. Probably a puffy hat, eventually. It's just an annoying yarn. Good luck! Here's a noro "scarf" I knitted up that is too short to be a real scarf, and now I hate it.  Beaded hat that I don't hate.  Close up of a cowl. I like the way the fabric looks, just not on my neck?  Part of yet another cowl. This is the one my cat puked on over two years ago...finally got around to finishing it!  yeah, not going to knit any more cowls for a while. They look so good on other people, are quick, and don't use much yarn, but I never seem to actually like them. Oh well. They were fun! Hopefully after a few more projects, I will produce something I actually want to wear. :P Dr. Kloctopussy fucked around with this message at 04:19 on May 20, 2014 |
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May 20, 2014 04:14
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Nibblet posted:In case anyone is interested, Jimmy Beans Wool is having a sale on discontinued Noro yarn. There are a lot to choose from and priced at $6.00 and $7.95 per skein. Great, just bought enough yarn for two more sweaters and a shawl. I haven't worn a shawl since I was 5 years old, but hey, COLORS!! Maybe I can use it like a weird hoodie or something. But how am I supposed to justify going to the yarn shop now?
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May 22, 2014 03:27
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Anne Whateley posted:New Knitty up! It sucks I like the concepts behind bloc party and the baseball shirt with lace sleeves, but would modify them both so much that I'll never actually use the patterns. On the other hand, most knitting patterns are just a variation on a theme, and unless they have a really unique and hard to figure out technique, or a stitch pattern that isn't one of the thousands already published, I don't see the point. Says the girl half-way through her first sweater.
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Jun 12, 2014 01:03
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Purling in Continental definitely takes some getting used to. I recommend just doing garter stitch until you are comfortable with holding the yarn in your left hand, then work on purls. There are many different ways to do purls in continental knitting, so try variations on hand/yarn positioning until you find one that is kind of comfortable. For "normal" purls, I end up sticking my index finger straight out just below the needle on the right side, and using it to bring the yarn up and around the needle. But most of the time I just do a kind of backwards purl, where I can rest the yarn over my index finger (between index and middle finger) just like I do when knitting, but with the working bit of the yarn slipped in front. Then I use the right hand needle to push the yarn down and through the stitch. It makes the knit stitches on the front twisted, so I just knit them through the back loop, and voila. So much easier. I also don't bother with any of that wrapping the yarn around my pinky or whatever. It always gets too tight, or tangles, or falls out and I have to drop the right-hand needle to try to get it back in place, because I can't seem to do that sweeping loop-ti-loop with my left hand. Holding it between my index and middle finger is enough to give me consistent tension.
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Jun 27, 2014 20:48
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Ah, here is a video of how I purl, though I don't have my index finger sticking up like the lady in the video. It's awesome for doing ribbing. Maybe I'll try to take a video of that. http://youtu.be/INSdE2UD9GY
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Jun 27, 2014 21:48
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a friendly penguin posted:Holy moly, I just watched that video and now I think I've been wrapping the yarn backwards when purling. I've never noticed anything weird, it looks fine and when I go back for the next round/row I don't have any issues. So does it matter? That is a backwards purl (I. E. She wraps the yarn the opposite way it is wrapped in a "normal" purl stitch), so if you're doing it the way in the video, and still knitting through the front loop on the reverse knit stitches, then you are making twisted knit stitches. If you go around the opposite way, that is the usual way, and you knit through the front loop on the reverse to make a normal stitch, or through the back to make a twisted knit stitch. I find the backwards purl significantly faster and less painful, and knitting through the back loop is basically the same as knitting through the front loop, unless you are doing lots of increases and decreases, which do require a little bit more effort in this method, so I use it most of the time.
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Jun 28, 2014 01:33
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Safari Disco Lion posted:Don't forget the free half pound of garden compost that every skein of Noro yarns comes crammed with. Seriously the amount of random sticks and twigs I've found in every skein of Noro Kureyon or Silk Garden I've used is astounding. Despite this, and the variation in thickness, and the fact that i think it usually looks far better in the skeins than when actually knitted....I still keep buying it. I'm working on quite a collection of patterns that I think I can use it with, but I might resort to just hanging the skeins in my house or something.
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Jul 12, 2014 05:41
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jomiel posted:A while ago I was talking to another SF goon about attending their knit nights, is it the Fog City Knitters group that meets Tues nights? Come to the Princess Animal group on every other Thursday unless you live hella far from the Mission. Also, I made this spreadsheet for calculating prices and yardage of knitting projects, so maybe y'all will enjoy it, too: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11UheyBOyUMDY-2UanCrkp6GBnTOB2m3TmV62hy3qRiM/edit#gid=0 Bonus is that if you share my taste in projects and are a size XL, it will suggest patterns for you. (If not, you can save a copy and do your own data entry. You can also save a copy and import your stash for further functionality!)
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Oct 24, 2014 08:06
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jomiel posted:I'm going to Stitches West Fri and Sat afternoon, I have a sock class and a sweater shaping class. If you bought the skeins of Madeline Tosh sock that I have been eyeing, I am gonna cry. Because I really need more yarn.... (no). Also, Princess Animal kraft-ins are continuing, at least.
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Feb 11, 2015 06:01
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ackapoo posted:I bought four sweater patterns yesterday. For some reason, I really need an Antler sweater. I am working on an Antler right now! For unremembered reasons I started knitting it in a sport weight yarn, so it's definitely going to be less drapey than the original....
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Mar 6, 2015 07:39
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yay, actually finished a thing! Whispers in Berroco Ultra Alpaca Fine  
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Sep 23, 2015 00:37
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a friendly penguin posted:Wow, congrats! That looks like it was a lot of work and it's a beautiful color. For you? Yeah, I'm not selfless enough to knit for anyone else. I want it ALL!
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Sep 23, 2015 22:26
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Panic! at Nabisco posted:Hey knitgoons. I'm primarily a crocheter, have dipped my toes into knitting a few times, made a couple of super basic scarves etc., but I want to go further (WE HAVE TO GO DEEPER etc.) Can anyone recommend a men's apparel pattern that I won't horribly gently caress up as my first real apparel knitting project? I was looking at this because it is sexy as hell, but that would take a whoooole lot of yarn and it's a really big investment that I will probably gently caress up hard and be too ashamed to wear, it looks kinda tough. Looking into grabbing some of this stuff for material, nice and big so it'll knit up on my size 10 needles and I won't spend seven years doing one thing. Advice would be appreciated! By men's apparel, I assume you mean a men's sweater, because unless you want to wear a sweater vest, I don't know what else there is... Sweaters aren't that hard, they just require a lot of time and patience. The most important thing is being able to knit with a consistent gauge in stockinette. If you can't do that, don't start a sweater yet. To make sure it fits you, take the time to make a 6"x6" swatch. My first sweater was 100% wearable. http://www.ravelry.com/projects/audsnico/mackinac-tank (no pictures of me wearing it though) The one you posted is knit flat, which means you'll almost certainly be doing all the shaping with increases and decreases. If you're not already comfortable with those, use some cheap yarn and do some practice before you start with your fashion wool. Wool can get frizzy if you tear back too often and the increase/decreases are where you're most likely to make mistakes. The collar one that one is just a rib stitch, and either worked flat and sewn in, or worked by picking up stitches. My main concern with this pattern as a beginner pattern is that there aren't that many projects/posts about it, so less resources if you get stuck. EDIT: After reading through a few people's project notes 1) it looks like the instructions for the collar are to pick up stitches. That might be a little fiddly at the front, where there are overlapping pieces. You could also knit flat and sew it in, if you are comfortable modding a pattern like that. 2) There are actually short rows in this one, too, so you'd have to learn that technique. It's not as scary as it sounds. Also, german short rows for life, Wrap and Turn sucks. Also, this is why I read other people's pattern notes! http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/cobblestone-pullover is the most popular men's pullover on Revelry, so lots of projects and posts to read if you get stuck. There's a couple rows of short-row shaping. The neck is much simpler to work, but also a totally different look. If you're to into the garter-stitch yoke/funnel neck and just want a classic pullover with the striped yarn, pick one of the most popular ones with a design you like: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/search#weight=aran&pc=pullover&view=large_photos&sort=projects&fit=male I've found the information The Principles of Knitting infinitely useful. It's got great advice for choosing projects, the process of working a project, how to measure stitch gauge, how to measure and modify patterns to fit your body better, importance of keeping records as you make a sweater, etc. etc. Also practically every other aspect of knitting. Dr. Kloctopussy fucked around with this message at 07:54 on Oct 30, 2015 |
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Oct 30, 2015 03:45
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Sodium Chloride posted:I definitely would not recommend the Cobblestone Pullover Dr. Kloctopussy linked. Garter stitch in the round looks ugly as hell with the jog. Even though are a couple of techniques to garter in the round I've never been able to do them and make it look good. 2966 knitters disagree  I did garter-in-the-round in Antler and it doesn't bother me. I can't really see the jog unless I'm an inch away. But that's probably true for wrap-and-turned short rows, too, and I'd never do them! That said, I think Flax is a more aesthetically pleasing sweater overall. I wouldn't do a shawl collar for my first sweater, because of the fiddlely overlapping front-bit and short-row shaping in rib stitch pattern. The point Anne Whateley made about choosing a yarn that matches or closely matches the pattern recommendation, or at the very least one that has been used by a lot of other knitters, is spot-on. Make it easy on yourself to get gauge. Accurately measuring your body, making sure all the sweaters measurements fit your body (including sleeves, neckline, shoulder width, lengths), and making sure you hit gauge, are going to go a long way towards making your sweater wearable. We're gonna scare him away y'all. Here's some other Aran yarns that are good deals: http://littleknits.com/crystal-palace-nocturne-aran-mushrooms-color-607-full-bag-sale-5-skeins.html http://littleknits.com/mistral-dark-grey-brown-color-1902-full-bag-sale-5-skeins.html http://www.yarn.com/index.cfm/fusea...4-0D2873796AEC/ http://www.yarn.com/index.cfm/fusea...B-F81136B45DD4/
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Oct 30, 2015 19:35
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Panic! at Nabisco posted:Well, socks, gloves, hats, etc. Thanks for the advice anyway, I'm really out of my depth regarding knitting stuff. Hats are also great. The bigger size makes them a bit easier, you can use short-circulars instead of DPNs for most of them, and no heel-turning. I'm probably biased though, since I've never knit a sock in my life and am not that interested in doing so. Sweaters for life. Another option would be to do a scarf with a stitch-pattern detail, especially one using increases/decreases so you practice a lot of those. You could make yourself a matching hat/scarf set. I'd pick whatever you are more likely to wear, though. Re: price, seriously I would never buy a pure wool yarn at that price either, ugggghhhhh so expensive. Little Knits full bag sales for life. As long as we're talking sweater price calculations, here is a spreadsheet I made: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/11UheyBOyUMDY-2UanCrkp6GBnTOB2m3TmV62hy3qRiM/edit#gid=0 It can calculate: - price of project in given yarn - compare price of project in up to 3 yarns - skeins of yarn required per project It's also got a lot of my favorite sweaters punched in, so if you are an XL lady with my taste, it will make pattern recommendations, too. Dr. Kloctopussy fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Oct 30, 2015 |
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Oct 30, 2015 21:22
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Wandering Knitter posted:For the love of God and all that is holy do not use Lion Brand Homespun for your shawl. I remember it well. Nigh on fifteen years ago, when I first decided to start knitting, I bought a thing of Homespun in Antique Red. It looked so soft and squishy, and like it would hide my mistakes and also magically make something fashionable even though that would have been what, 2000, and so no, definitely not? Anyway. I went through three moves, and in each apartment I would remember that desire to take up knitting, and I'd conveniently find that thing of Homespun tucked in the back of a drawer or at the bottom of a basket. It kind of haunted me. Increasingly, I realized that I could never make something I would like out of it, but I had it, so I felt like I should use it, and overtime I thought about knitting, it would just be there somehow. I moved a few more times, throwing stuff out with each move. Eventually, I went to law school and forgot all about knitting. In 2011, I packed up only the absolute essentials and moved to San Francisco. I couldn't find a job. I remembered knitting. THAT loving HOMESPUN WAS IN ONE OF THE BOXES. This story has a happy ending though. On December 14, 2014, I threw away that goddamn piece of poo poo. Yeah, I know the exact date. And I wouldn't be that surprised if I dig into one of my boxes of yarn one day and a bundle of Homespun comes out in my hand.......
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Nov 24, 2015 11:52
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I knit my first pair of socks, woo. Two-at-a-time magic loop technique is amazing and socks are so much faster than sweaters!! Unfortunately, even though I was knitting them from the same skein, they came out different colors >:-[ drat you MadelineTosh.
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Dec 8, 2015 01:05
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left_unattended posted:Double posting, but: Can you describe what is happening in more detail? You shouldn't get any laddering when moving between a knit stitch and a purl stitch. K1P1 ribbing is alternating between an knit and a purl every stitch without doing anything fancy. Something's going wrong if you have to do special manipulations to stop laddering between a knit and a purl.
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Dec 14, 2015 08:01
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Asiina posted:I'm double knitting this very large throw pillow and I noticed near the end of a row a mistake I made at the beginning of the previous row that I had to go all the way back to fix. Each row is a little under 200 stitches. It makes me grumble. Dunno if you could have done it in this particular situation, but learning how to drop stitches to fix mistakes a few rows down has been one of the best time investments i have ever made.
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Jun 9, 2016 00:48
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Made some more stuff and took pictures of it: Mitt Envy in Knit Picks Capretta I was unsure about knitting these, since I never wear fingerless mitts, but I asked my brother for sock yarn last year and he bought me off-white yarn... I don't want to know what the bottom of those socks would look like after two wears. I ended up really happy with these, and since Seattle is colder than anywhere else I've lived, I've already worn them twice. I really liked the yarn and I wish it came in weathered or subtle tone-on-tone variations, since I'm generally not a huge fan of yarns that are this solid. I'm not sure what to make out of the rest of it, I have about 350 yards left. I am thinking either a hat or boot-toppers. I haven't found a fingering-weight beret that I particularly like, though. And speaking of not liking solid yarns, here is another lesson for me in never getting high contrast variegated yarns, even within the same color family:  Vitamin D in Rowan Fine Art (kingfisher) I KNEW. Or I very strongly suspected, that this would come out stripier than I wanted. The biggest problem, though, is that the sleeves are waaaaaay too big, so it feels super sloppy when I wear it. I need to either serge the sleeves narrower (scary) or reknit them (blah). So many lessons learned.
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Nov 19, 2016 02:31
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Pheasant Revolution posted:First sweater I knitted I forgot to decrease for the armholes at the front (yeah, I was too distracted by the zillion cables). Anyway, a braver person than I sandwiched with fabric, machined sewed, snipped and serged it for me and it survives 5 years later. Thank you! I know it can be done in theory (that's how tons of commercially produced sweaters are made, after all), but it's still nice to hear it worked out for someone at home.
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Nov 20, 2016 11:33
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Try a scarf with purls and increases/decreases, and you will have done every stitch required for a (very) basic sweater. A lot of sweater patterns are for knitting in the round, because people hate sewing seams. Hats are good practice for that (also you can have a matching hat and scarf set!). You can do a sleeveless sweater as an in-between if you want, but sleeves aren't particularly difficult. My first "sweater" project was the Mackinac tank: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/mackinac-tank
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Sep 25, 2017 05:46
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Made socks but managed to make them too small for myself (argh). Luckily a friend's wife has tiny feet, so:
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Oct 22, 2017 06:48
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edit: ^^^ oh hey, you are doing fine already. Ok, so first off, knitting usually takes a lot of practice at the beginning, and the problems you are describing are completely normal beginner problems. Most of the time I find diagrams much more useful than videos, so definitely try looking at some of them, too vs. just following videos. After a fair amount of poking around, I think these from Lion Brand might be the clearest: http://www.lionbrand.com/how-to-knit-knit-stitch. Ideally they would have used a different color to distinguish between the yarn you're messing with and the yarn on the left needle, but alas. Tech Knitting's are ok, but could use a few more of the intermediate steps: http://techknitting.blogspot.com/2006/12/english-knit-stitch.html You could also try switching to continental style (yarn held in left hand). I find the motion of half-dropping the right needle to swing the yarn up and around a strange and impossible motion that I do not understand. With continental, needles and yarn mostly stay in the same place. I couldn't get the hang of knitting until I switched. Knitpicks has tutorials for it in both video and pictures/written instructions: http://tutorials.knitpicks.com/knit-stitch-continental/ Also, while I agree with Nancy Pants that you don't need to worry about dropped stitches for now, you might find it helpful to look at these diagrams showing how to fix them (and a few other problems): http://www.vogueknitting.com/pattern_help/how-to/learn_to_knit/correcting_common_mistakes. I think these pictures might be useful to you b/c they make the construction of the knit fabric a little clearer than a video tutorial does. Understanding how knitting "works" really made it easier for me. If it is confusing and freaks you out, just ignore all of this. You might also try starting out with crochet. I found that easier to manage than knitting when I was a beginner. It's nearly impossible to drop stitches!! From crochet, you get used to holding thread and manipulating thread with a stick. It might be easier to then add in a second stick. And finally, if you can afford it, look for local knitting classes. There is a good chance they offer them at wherever you are buying the needles and yarn. If you can't afford it, and are comfortable talking to strangers, look for local knitting groups. I've never known of a knitting group that didn't have a person who was willing to help people learn.
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Oct 26, 2017 04:07
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I'm knitting my seventh sweater, and I just found an extra stitch in the front panel. IT NEVER ENDS. Also, I hope you grow to enjoy knitting as much as I do, Pennywise. I find it very soothing. Knitting and listening to audiobooks keeps me occupied on many nights when I would otherwise be getting hosed up.
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Oct 27, 2017 02:57
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I agree with counting what you've got. I don't seem to ever hit the listed gauge. Scarves are pretty flexible, though, so it won't matter if you are off by a little bit. For audiobooks, check your local library. I don't know if smaller cities have this, but both San Francisco and Seattle libraries have really big streaming audiobook selections. It's awesome. Sometimes I have to wait a couple weeks to get a popular one, but there is always SOMETHING interesting available. This is great for normal ebooks, too.
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Oct 27, 2017 20:47
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Anne Whateley posted:I think it's hilariously dumb someone wouldn't buy it because of the name, but I also think it's hilariously dumb people do buy yarn because of its names. All you need to do is call it something related to Doctor Who and you'll double your sales, like who is that stupid, a lot of people apparently Marketing is all about giving customers an emotional connection to your product, so this isn't really that surprising. I roll my eyes at it now, but I'm sure I have been influenced to buy something because it had a name that struck a chord with me, sigh. On the other hand, BPAL makes a fragrance I like, but it's called Jailbait, and that makes me cringe, so I haven't bought a bottle of it. But that's different from just being a ridiculous name. I only know the names of my yarns so I can tag potential projects for them. Because imagining finished projects is way easier than actually finishing them..... Surely I'm not the only one with like 30 patterns tagged for a single yarn.... elise the great posted:I had to google the yarn to see the color and it’s so gorgeous I tried to cram my phone in my mouth. Why are ‘tosh yarns sooooo delectable After TWICE having so much variation within a single skein of Tosh that it hosed up the project, I have once again sworn to never buy it, but I just know I'm going to get suckered by it again. Dr. Kloctopussy fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Jan 29, 2018 |
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Jan 29, 2018 02:36
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NancyPants posted:Who takes a gauge off a washed and blocked swatch? How do you adjust your needle size if you need to wash and block it before you measure? I knit a few small swatches (1.5" Sq), wash/dress/measure, and then make a big swatch (6" Sq) with the one that looks closest. Measure, then wash, dress, measure again. If it's not right, either knit another big swatch, or adjust the pattern. If it's pretty close I might also just go up or down without making a new big swatch. Or make a medium swatch. One nearly-ruined alpaca sweater and I will never consider knitting and dressing multiple swatches too much work again  if you are using a heavy yarn, it's worth it to hang and weight your swatch as well, because the weight of the yarn can cause the garment to stretch vertically when worn. -- if I were doing a scarf or shawl or something, I would probably not bother to swatch at all though. (I do still forget to measure the swatches BEFORE dressing them sometimes, which sucks for checking measurements and adjusting as I knit.) Dr. Kloctopussy fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jan 29, 2018 |
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Jan 29, 2018 04:19
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NancyPants posted:All of this makes perfect sense to me because it's why you swatch, especially when you're designing. I always do a gauge swatch even if I just need it to figure yarn requirements, but if there's no pre-blocking gauge given, isn't there a figure missing? Is it common in garment patterns to give only the blocked gauge? I use a gauge swatch to know if I'm on target, but without a pre-blocked gauge I'm just stabbing in the dark. I'm not sure I totally understand the question. Especially about how you are stabbing in the dark without being given a pre-blocked gauge. Yes, it's standard for designers to only give the blocked gauge, and no pre-blocking gauge. Using the blocked gauge is the only way to be sure all knitters will get the final sizes listed in the pattern. The problem with the designer giving you the pre-blocking gauge is that different yarns respond differently to blocking, so my 5.5 stitch per inch unblocked swatch and your 5.5 stitch per inch unblocked swatch might end up radically different after blocking. This is why I measure my own swatches pre-blocking (in theory, argh), so then I have the pre-block gauge for my yarn, so I can check as I go. Is that answering the question any better?
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Jan 29, 2018 19:22
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left_unattended posted:Eh, I'm not afraid of much when it comes to knitting, I adore cables and lace, I'm knitting a stranded colourwork cowl rn, but I'm not a big fan of purling. I just find it awkward. If you are twisting them by purling "down," that's how I do it all the time and it's fine. Like Pheasant Revolution, I've done entire sweaters this way. Untwist by knitting/purling through the backloop, rearrange things as necessary for increases and decreases. It's worth it to figure out how to purl both ways, imo, because with practice, it'll be faster to purl so you don't twist stitches vs untwisting stitches for increases/decreases. So when I purl long rows of stockinette, I purl down--twisting the stitches, but if there is a pattern where I need to k2tog a lot, I'll (try to) purl those "correctly," so there is no twist, because you can't k2tog through the backloops and get a right leaning decrease. As far as I can tell, you have to rotate the stitches and then do the decrease. Using both purl approaches is also useful in 2x2 and bigger ribbing, when with normal purls, the left-most knit stitch gets all stretched out, and with down purls, the right-most knit stitch gets the same way. So my 2x2 ribbing is k2, purl down, purl up. If no one knows wtf I mean by purling down/up in continental, I can try to explain it better.
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Feb 19, 2018 11:02
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I use circular needles for everything, because I find it a lot easier on my wrists (and because I have a set of interchangeable circulars, which means I already have a bunch of sizes in circulars....). I also knit a lot of sweaters in the round. You can fit a piece with a bigger circumference onto a shorter set of circulars pretty easily, up to a point. Though you can't try it on without taking it off the needles, obviously. Two at once magic loop is the only way I'll ever be able to knit a pair of socks instead of many different single socks. It's great for mitts and sweater sleeves, too. With top-down seamless sweaters, I set up the double magic loop directly into the held-off sleeve stitches in the body. It's great. My sleeves are always the same length! I'm sure more fastidious people can handle both of these things without two at once, but... it's a godsend for me anyway. I own a set of addi click interchangeables, but if I were rebuying a set, I might not choose those. At the smaller sizes (4-5), the yarn sometimes catches on the small lip at the connecting point. Also I would REALLY like them to be different colors by size, but this seems to be a feature only of the cheaper sets. Not sure why. I should paint mine or something. Not that I have repeatedly realized that I am knitting on two different sized needles, nope..... For socks, I like my Chia Goo red lace circular in size 1, which is ~$10.
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Mar 8, 2018 08:13
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Despite knitting and dressing a big swatch, this sweater ended up having a neck hole so large it falls all the way off. Good job me.
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Mar 30, 2018 06:51
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Midnight Sun posted:Can you frog the neck and decrease a few more stitches before you knit the neck to fix it? It's top-down D: But maybe it's still possible to pick out a couple rows and knit the other way like it was a provisional cast on. Shape/design-wise, I think that I can shrink the neckline by adding rows without ending up with a weird thing...and if not, uh...funnel necks are a thing, right? I tried it on as I knit it, but it just stretched out a lot as the sweater got heavier and when it got wet. The rest of it still fits though. I need to remember to use a non-stretchy cast on if I'm doing a neckline that can pull over the head without stretching.
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Mar 30, 2018 22:23
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DrunkenDolphin posted:3: sew two or four symmetric wedges via. sewingmachines, and simply cut away the excess - or add zippers for a kicking rad punk-look. oooooh I didn't think of zippers, that might actually look really cool in the back.
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Apr 1, 2018 01:07
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