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Darchangel posted:My oil pressure sender seems to have borked: Wrong sender? I think I've seen two part numbers for the XJ. One for the warning light version of the instrument cluster and one for the gage version.
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Jul 24, 2014 18:53
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Wrong sender? I think I've seen two part numbers for the XJ. One for the warning light version of the instrument cluster and one for the gage version. Yeah, my unworking pressure gauge turned out to be the incorrect sender. The idiot light version is like $6 ( looks like a little spinning top) and the correct gauge version is $12 (looks like a little tin can), so whoever tried to fix it last was probably being cheap. It's a five minute fix if that's what it is. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Jul 24, 2014 |
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Jul 24, 2014 22:22
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Half the times I have specifically requested a gauge type sender at the parts store the moron behind the counter ended up giving me a dummy light switch anyways, so it might not be the PO's fault. Bring a multimeter to the store with you and measure its resistance on the spot - you're looking for anything over 2-3 ohms and less than a few thousand, I forget the exact ranges but that's ballpark enough to keep you from buying a dummy light switch. Remember that most stores are going to pitch a fit if you try and return a used electrical sender. This is why I measure on the counter in front of the salesperson instead of even walking out the door with it. This doesn't work on the 3 wire style senders in the later jeeps, but all of those are true pressure style senders anyways (the pins are ground, 5V reference, and analog pressure return - not sure which is which, check the wiring diagram) so it doesn't really matter, you don't have to check those before purchase.
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Jul 24, 2014 22:43
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Wrong sender? I think I've seen two part numbers for the XJ. One for the warning light version of the instrument cluster and one for the gage version. Nah, it's the right one. It was working, and quit one day. I converted to gauges from the giant gas gauge cluster last year. Hopefully, the sender is still under warranty.
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Jul 25, 2014 05:27
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When I put a 8.25 into my 1988 XJ over the next month or two, I'd like to lift it a bit while I'm at it. I also desperately need new leaf spring packs. This is a total cheapo beater budget build for occasional camping and modetate 4x4, so I am thinking of trying to aquire a used ~3" kit. There's a jeep shop/part out place near me that has a used Rancho 3" kit, including the OEM + AAL packs for $250. Looks like brand new base-level RE/Rancho/etc 3" w/new packs are generally around $500. I'd love to put the difference into a lunchbox locker, but will I hate myself for buying used?
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Jul 25, 2014 18:47
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Used is probably not a HUGE problem, but I'd shy away from used shocks or leaf springs, only because they can / do wear over time. That said, if you want to buy those RE rear leafs, and put longer lower arms and coils in, I should have my bigger lift done inside of the next three months (we firmed up the dates for Moab, so there's a better timetable). I don't think they're worth much, so I'd give 'em to you. ... but you'd have to wait  (I currently have this first kit: http://www.tuffcountry.com/suspension-kit/jeep-1987-01-cherokee-lift-kits.html without the blocks. It sits pretty level with the RE leaf packs with one leaf removed.)
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Jul 25, 2014 19:26
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Thanks for the offer, that's cool of you  I'll continue to weigh options and let you know.
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Jul 25, 2014 22:49
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IMO, add a leafs are kinda lame. That one leaf ends up being pretty stiff because it has to do the lions share of lifting and may even have to fight the stock leaves a bit depending on their free height. I'd go with full leaf packs - they suck to install due to the design of the shackle and leaf hangars but it's worth it. Somehow I haven't sagged my Crown Automotive OEM HD/UpCountry grade leafs I installed late last year even though I've done some pretty horrible things to them. I spent something like $200-250 for both leafs, all four leaf bushings, and all new axle U-bolts with nuts, shipped.
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Jul 25, 2014 23:06
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I went out with a few other jeeps on Saturday and did the Pancake Rock trail - off of Lyons Valley Road near Jamul in San Diego county. It was a pretty fun trail, super rutted out. "Pancake Rock" is the large expanse of granite that you can see in the first photo. One of the local Jeep clubs does a pancake breakfast up there every year. We had a ZJ, two TJs and a JK. My cousin just got this ZJ - he put on a lift kit and cut a little bit of fender away for 33" tires. He did the whole trail with his sway bars connected because he didn't want his tires eating the fenders any more. At the end of the trail his sway bar links had melted through the bushings and one of the bars was bent by about 20 degrees.       
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Jul 28, 2014 17:05
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Do you know if he swapped his transfer case? 93-95 ZJs don't lock the front and rear driveshafts in 4 LO, and that viscous coupling has got to be long dead by now.
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Jul 28, 2014 22:21
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BoostCreep posted:Do you know if he swapped his transfer case? 93-95 ZJs don't lock the front and rear driveshafts in 4 LO, and that viscous coupling has got to be long dead by now. He hasn't swapped yet, but he's planning on it if he keeps wheeling it. I'd never looked at a ZJ before and was surprised to see that the axle shafts are CV (I think) and don't have u-joints. Anyone know if one style of shaft is stronger than the other? I assume I would've heard about it by now if people were putting these into TJs and the like.
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Jul 28, 2014 22:44
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U-joints are stronger. People do swap U-joint axles into ZJs. From what I've read, 33's are the largest you'd want to go on CVs before they destroy themselves as fast as they get replaced.
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Jul 28, 2014 23:04
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Astonishing Wang posted:He hasn't swapped yet, but he's planning on it if he keeps wheeling it. I'd never looked at a ZJ before and was surprised to see that the axle shafts are CV (I think) and don't have u-joints. Anyone know if one style of shaft is stronger than the other? I assume I would've heard about it by now if people were putting these into TJs and the like. Retarded high school mudders around me claim they're mad super strong but then in the same breath say they blew up 6 sets but it's fine because they're lifetime warranty at autozone. U-joints are stronger, and you can swap U-joint XJ/MJ/TJ shafts into a ZJ axle with no other changes. WJ axles are wider, so you can't swap those quite so easily, but ZJs it's cake.
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Jul 28, 2014 23:34
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That's good to know, thanks. I have a spare set of front shafts from my TJ so I guess me and him are both covered.
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Jul 28, 2014 23:37
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I always associate the Grand Cherokee being the equivalent of a Range Rover. I know the RR has more articulation built into it, but how do these trucks do off road? I know that they were beam axles front and rear and coils all the way around.
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Jul 28, 2014 23:42
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So I need to change the knuckles on my 95 xjs d30. The ones I have are torn up and missing chunks where the brake pads ride. I've got a buddy with a d30 from a zj, would those knuckles work? Kastein, I seek your wisdom.
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Jul 30, 2014 16:04
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I always associate the Grand Cherokee being the equivalent of a Range Rover. I know the RR has more articulation built into it, but how do these trucks do off road? I know that they were beam axles front and rear and coils all the way around. They seem to be pretty capable - I see more Grand Cherokees offroad these days than Cherokees it seems. Most with no or hardly any modifications.
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Jul 30, 2014 17:53
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BrokenKnucklez posted:I always associate the Grand Cherokee being the equivalent of a Range Rover. I know the RR has more articulation built into it, but how do these trucks do off road? I know that they were beam axles front and rear and coils all the way around. The WJ Overland with QuadraDrive and VariLok is actually surprisingly capable though very expensive to fix if a gerotor goes. I have an 04 4.0 WJ that's all stock with A/T's and it does pretty well for itself, lightyears better than my old lifted Explorer with mud tires and such. I don't really push it too hard but it sees many shortcuts through super sketchy washed out roads and a whole bunch of horse trails and doesn't really complain all that much. The main selling point on ZJ's and WJ's right now is that they are EXTREMELY cheap. You can get a running/driving/stopping ZJ for under 500 bucks, and WJ for under $2k. This makes them a great budget project.
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Jul 30, 2014 18:04
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Veeb0rg posted:So I need to change the knuckles on my 95 xjs d30. The ones I have are torn up and missing chunks where the brake pads ride. I've got a buddy with a d30 from a zj, would those knuckles work? Yes. Or just grind down to shiny bare metal in the notches, fill em with MIG weld, grind back to original profile. That's the standard repair, hundreds or thousands of people have done it with good results now. Knuckles off the ZJ will be just fine though. Use the hammer trick to unseat the tapers, rather than mashing up the balljoint threads... make sure you wire wheel the threads off pretty well before installing the knuckles or you're probably going to be angry when the taper spins instead of the nut. If that happens, load the balljoint with a jack and/or prybar and hope for the best.
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Jul 30, 2014 23:22
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FreelanceSocialist posted:They seem to be pretty capable - I see more Grand Cherokees offroad these days than Cherokees it seems. Most with no or hardly any modifications. I keep kicking around doing a build with a Discovery but they are starting to get pretty ragged and the price isn't reflecting. But I see tons of Grand Cherokees on the cheap with minor bullshit wrong with em. I would prefer the ZJ with a 5.2 but I know the transmissions arent the greatest. Not bad but not the better work of Chrysler.
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Jul 31, 2014 00:25
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If you don't mind having an ECU reprogrammed by someone that problem should be going away shortly. They only made a thousand 93/94 mantrans ZJs, but I have the clutch pedal box from one of them sitting at my desk on long term loan. My plan is to start making the pedal boxes at-cost for friends/fellow forum nerds and for profit from people I don't know. I know they'll bolt right into all 93-95 ZJs, I think they'll fit 96-98 as well if you drill a few holes but not certain. Other stuff necessary for a swap: Transmission, mounts, crossmember, etc: AX15 can be put behind a 4.0 or 5.2 using all junkyard parts from XJs, MJs, YJs, TJs, and Dakotas, weld up your own mount bracket and crossmember, that aint my problem and it's not a hard one. Driveshafts: you can either have these made/retubed to the right length, or do it yourself with a welder and some skill. ECU: have the factory one reprogrammed with a manual tune. I know it's possible on 96 and later with the JTEC, I know it's possible with SBECs in 95 and down but don't know of anyone doing it off the top of my head. I would guess you'd need either a custom tune or maybe a mantrans XJ tune for 4.0s or a Dakota/Ram tune for 5.2s and 5.9s. Wiring: pretty easy to splice around the NSS and other stuff Floor blockoff panel: trace and make yourself, it's just sheetmetal Shift boot: crown royal bag (this is a ZJ-specific part, sadly) Basically the hardest part, the clutch pedal, is not going to be an issue soon. For a 5.9 ZJ mantrans I'd probably go with something other than an AX15/NV3550/NV3500 because you'll blow it up in short order, but there are manuals available that will bolt to it and handle the torque.
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Jul 31, 2014 00:45
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kastein posted:Yes. My old knuckles are not worth the.time to clean and repair. A buddy is trading me those zj knuckles for some beer. I was planning on new ball joints anyway so a knuckle swap doesn't add time to my plan. e. And my buddy just messaged me he only has a drivers knuckle, he no longer has the other. drat. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Jul 31, 2014 |
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Jul 31, 2014 02:03
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kastein posted:If you don't mind having an ECU reprogrammed by someone that problem should be going away shortly. They only made a thousand 93/94 mantrans ZJs, but I have the clutch pedal box from one of them sitting at my desk on long term loan. My plan is to start making the pedal boxes at-cost for friends/fellow forum nerds and for profit from people I don't know. I may have found my "when I get some money" project. Grand cherokees are so crazy cheap around here.
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Jul 31, 2014 10:26
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What about bolting up to the transfer case... Or is that a matter of playing Lego's and getting poo poo swapped around?
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Jul 31, 2014 12:28
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BrokenKnucklez posted:What about bolting up to the transfer case... Or is that a matter of playing Lego's and getting poo poo swapped around? IIRC they're the same New Venture Gear 23 spline 6 bolt shaft/flange pattern as everything else, people put XJ transfer cases in them occasionally I think? Output shaft length and tcase input gear length are the only issues I would expect, and those can be solved with a variety of parts off of a variety of other jeeps and dodges as usual, if they're even issues.
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Jul 31, 2014 15:54
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Noise Complaint posted:The main selling point on ZJ's and WJ's right now is that they are EXTREMELY cheap. You can get a running/driving/stopping ZJ for under 500 bucks, and WJ for under $2k. This makes them a great budget project. That's why I've been eyeballing Grand Cherokees lately. I looked at ZJs for a while, but after looking around I can get a WJ for the same price with more options, plus I like the extra capability of the Quadra-Drive in the WJ. I've been seeing WJs with the V8 and Quadra-Drive in the mid 3k range around me, though QD is harder to find. Tons of Quadra-TracII's and Selec-tracs around though. Worst case scenario, I buy one of those and pick up a Quadra-Drive rear axle for $350-400 at a local JY and swap it in to get a rear LSD.
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Jul 31, 2014 23:28
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kastein posted:those can be solved with a variety of parts off of a variety of other jeeps and dodges as usual, if they're even issues. I figured as much. If my build ever works out, I will be getting in contact with out via facebook for info. I know I will be steering clear of the 4.7. Though there is one WJ with a inline 6, all loaded and the owner is complaining of a tick at idle. Its a 1999 so I am guessing its a head issue. Even if its that, Id just run it till it explodes.
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Aug 1, 2014 00:09
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Betting that would be a cracked 0331 casting and washed out rod bearings. Plan on procuring a 02.5+ TUPY 0331 head and a good WJ shortblock (same donor, IMO) and dropping it in when it pukes a rod out the side of the block. Just to be clear, this pedal box won't fit WJs. No WJ was ever made with a mantrans to the best of my knowledge 
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Aug 1, 2014 00:47
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Untagged posted:Just eye-balling it makes it look like they'll be too big. But I'll give it a shot. My full soft doors fit flat in the back of my JK 2 door with the back seat out. Have to slide the seat forward a click or two but they fit no problem. On soft doors; I've been living with the Bestop super doors since march this year. In the Midwest pop up showers are always an option, so keeping them in the jeep is nice. They're really loud when the windows are closed, so much so I open the windows whenever they're on and its not raining because its quieter that way. Above 50mph they start pulling away from the windshield frame, by 65mph its almost 1" of separation. They're adjusted according to the manual, bent inward for constant pressure but they still pull out. Running half door is nice but pointless when less effort gets doorless. Also, rain still gets in, just a trickle but they don't completely seal. They're a reasonable compromise, but noise is the biggest drawback. Considering you get a low volume set of car doors for $400, its a better deal than just half doors.
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Aug 1, 2014 04:07
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kastein posted:IIRC they're the same New Venture Gear 23 spline 6 bolt shaft/flange pattern as everything else, people put XJ transfer cases in them occasionally I think? Output shaft length and tcase input gear length are the only issues I would expect, and those can be solved with a variety of parts off of a variety of other jeeps and dodges as usual, if they're even issues. I think the only other potential "headache" is the gear cut change that happened in 94.5
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Aug 1, 2014 05:41
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On a whim yesterday I emailed ARB inquiring about a selectable locker for the D44a axle. Mostly I wanted to show support for the axle in the hopes that if they got enough emails they'd consider making one. I got this response this morning: So, that's pretty cool. Now instead of looking only for Quadra-Drive V8 Grand Cherokees, I need to look for non-QD. That makes things so much easier and I don't have to worry about being stuck with an Aussie or Spartan auto locker.
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Aug 1, 2014 17:29
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Audiologic posted:I think the only other potential "headache" is the gear cut change that happened in 94.5 Yeah, that's a fun one. Easy enough to solve though, especially if you're junkyarding parts for it... just find one that has the right gear cut.
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Aug 1, 2014 23:06
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kastein posted:No WJ was ever made with a mantrans to the best of my knowledge I came across a thread on JeepForum where a guy swapped a 5 speed into his WJ. He's a really good fabricator, so probably not for the casual enthusiast. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/aps-5-speed-wj-build-754461/index14.html
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Aug 2, 2014 00:12
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giundy posted:My full soft doors fit flat in the back of my JK 2 door with the back seat out. Have to slide the seat forward a click or two but they fit no problem. That's what I've been saying. I love my soft doors. The only problem I've had is they're somewhat annoying to break down in half.with them in half, I could slide them behind my fold and tumble rear seat and they'd take almost no space.
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Aug 2, 2014 00:36
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Went looking for a fuel float unit at the junkyard today to fix my gauge not registering below 1/4 tank. Pulled out a pump assembly and the whole thing was nearly brand new; someone had obviously replaced it fairly recently. Snagged the whole thing with hoses for $35, hopefully a new pump will help with my laggy starts from cold. Also got two clean console trim pieces for the shifter and 4WD gear indicators. My P-R-N-D-1/2 slidy indicator thingy was missing the flexible dust protector deal around the stick, and my 4WD lever brushes were all mangled. Got a handful of correct-color corner trim bits for my ceiling handles, since all of mine are missing and showing white plastic. Turd status: polished  .Arrived home and found a big RockAuto box waiting. I also finished cleaning the 8.25 I bought last week in preparation for swap, and rattlecanned it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoIgiwEVCUQ
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Aug 2, 2014 04:41
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Why they hell do they bolt steering wheels on if they don't come off when unbolted anyway?  
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Aug 2, 2014 14:41
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What year did the sender come from and what year is it going in? If you cross the 90/91 split, it will work, but the gauge will be super nonlinear and run backwards. Funny but annoying. All you need is a steering wheel puller - which doubles as an ax15 fifth gear puller and can be misused for other things like small pulleys as well. Iirc the 15 dollar kit at autozone is what I have, I've more than gotten my money back.
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Aug 2, 2014 14:53
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Yeah you need a steering wheel puller - I was thinking of buying one and pulling wheels whenever I'm at the yard. Clean ones go for a nice bit on ebay. I borrowed one from AutoZone when I got rid of my old aftermarket wheel. The pump/float assembly came out of a 1990, for my 88. I checked years on my phone before I bought it and it seems 1987-1990 is what I needed. Hopefully whatever mechanic instated it knew that too. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Aug 2, 2014 |
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Aug 2, 2014 16:37
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Make sure the steering lock isn't engaged and preventing it coming off easily. Not that I would ever do something so stupid myself, of course.
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Aug 2, 2014 16:49
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Theres a 5.9 ZJ at a car auction near me, and from the previous sales it seems they go cheap. Must. Not. Make. Bad. Decisions.
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Aug 3, 2014 03:20
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