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kastein posted:it should be idling at 700, did you move the pintle/tip while cleaning it? allegedly that can damage them, though it's just a step motor with a plunger tip so I don't know how it would. People keep telling me it will and I keep wondering if that is official info or just the redneck bad info internet echo chamber at work. It started at 700 and once the engine warmed, it dropped down to about 500/600. My tach is one of those really small aftermarket types and it's not super easy to tell where the needle is. I did actually move the plunger to make sure it would move freely. It moved in and out. I made a mental note to check out possibly getting a spare in case the first one goes lovely. Sandbagger SA fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 18:43
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IcedPee posted:So, last night as I was leaving the store, my jeep decided to do absolutely nothing when I tried to start it. The battery is less than six months old, has charge, and the connections at the terminals are solid. Pretty sure we're good there. If you hear a click from the engine compartment when the key is turned to Start (and probably another click when released) then the solenoid (aka the bigass relay for the starter motor) is engaging and its either the starter motor or a problem with the thick cables that run directly from the battery to the starter and back. Since you probably don't have a clamp on ammeter, you can probably turn on your headlights while you try to start it and if they dim while the key is in the Start position then the wiring is feeding power through the starter motor and confirms that the starter is the problem.
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Jun 29, 2015 19:41
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kastein posted:it should be idling at 700, did you move the pintle/tip while cleaning it? allegedly that can damage them, though it's just a step motor with a plunger tip so I don't know how it would. People keep telling me it will and I keep wondering if that is official info or just the redneck bad info internet echo chamber at work. I think that the older ones are both adjustable and more susceptible to damage when the pintle gets futzed with, I think. My 2000 XJ is non-adjustable and the only thing you can do is jack off the tiny sleeve on the shaft.
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Jun 29, 2015 19:53
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Hey guys we figured out where some of the vibration is coming from  
FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 20:08
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Hey guys we figured out where some of the vibration is coming from Okay, so, I'm poo poo at reading this, but I'm seeing both some significant camber AND toe? That could do it.
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Jun 29, 2015 21:14
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To answer my own question, 97-01 XJ Cherokee hinge pin replacement: Get two Needa door hinge pin kits. I had to go to two Advance Auto locations because each store only kept one piece in stock. Roll down window at least partway. Disconnect door wiring harness in kick panel, fish the harness plugs through the door jamb and tape to the inside of the door panel. Remove door stopper roll pin. Remove 6 T40 bolts holding door to hinge. You will want to have a helper, a tall jack, and a piece of wood for this. You will need a short T40 bit and a ratchet with a shallow head. Set door aside. Cut hinge pins in the middle, use hammer and punch to remove pin halves. You will have to cut through a plastic sleeve to do this, and it will smell bad. I used a Dremel, and this took FOREVER. Remove "door half" of the hinges. Use hammer and small screwdriver to remove old bushing parts. Trim the new plastic sleeve to fit inside the hinge. You will probably need to drill the top hole of the "door half" of the hinge a little larger to make it accept the knurled part of the new hinge pin. Put in new bushings and plastic sleeve, install "door half" of the hinge. Don't lose the little c-clips that go in the bottom. Put some masking tape on the leading edge of the door. Reinstall the door with the 6 T40 bolts. A smart person might try putting in new hex head bolts at this stage. Don't tighten them all the way. It was a pain to install these bolts because the socket and ratchet don't fit very well. Hex head bolts would let you use a shorter socket (or maybe a ratcheting wrench) and have more room. Check the door position. The fitment of my door changed quite a bit when I replaced the hinges and bushings. I ended up removing the alignment shim between the top hinge and the door. Fish your wires back into place and reconnect them. Re-install door stop roll pin. Bask in the glory of a job done / the sad realization that the aftermarket hinge pins and bushings will probably only last for a couple years. The next replacement will be a lot easier, though. This fixed a VERY annoying rattle in the driver's door of my Cherokee, and removed the sag when the door opened. It was certainly a ton of work to install $10 worth of new parts. Edit: The only parts that weren't a perfect fit were the little plastic sleeves that go on the inside of the hinge and the fact that the top of the hinge had to be drilled out a little bit to accept the knurled shoulder of the new hinge pin. This does not changes the fact that I will probably have to do all of this again in a year or two. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 21:23
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Another thing I can tell you is that the Help!/Dorman kit I bought for my 97.5*-01 XJ was loving garbage, obviously wouldn't fit at all, and I gave up on ever fixing it when I discovered that. * early 97 chassis got the old style 96-down hinges.
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Jun 29, 2015 21:29
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We managed to fix camber and toe, but they couldn't (or didn't) get the caster fixed. Is that even possible on the XJ? Now to order a TC drop kit and pray it fixes the remaining disconcerting noises and vibes. Dropping the TC and inch should also reduce my front caster angle, right?
FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 00:30
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FreelanceSocialist posted:We managed to fix camber and toe, but they couldn't (or didn't) get the caster fixed. Is that even possible on the XJ? Now to order a TC drop kit and pray it fixes the remaining disconcerting noises and vibes. Dropping the TC and inch should also reduce my front caster angle, right? Pinion angle takes precedence over caster angle, and you can't adjust one without changing the other; so, no, you probably can't fix your caster issue. Dropping the TC won't change your caster angle.
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Jun 30, 2015 00:38
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You can drop it using stacks of washers, and just use enough to get rid of the vibration. Try a half inch and then an inch, or just throw in the inch and it'll probably work. Washers and longer bolts should be cheaper than the kit, but I guess the kit is probably a little safer.
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Jun 30, 2015 01:54
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Astonishing Wang posted:You can drop it using stacks of washers, and just use enough to get rid of the vibration. Try a half inch and then an inch, or just throw in the inch and it'll probably work. Washers and longer bolts should be cheaper than the kit, but I guess the kit is probably a little safer. Thought about washers, played around a bit and didn't really like it with so little support so sprung for a cheap kit that uses square steel tubing. EightBit posted:Pinion angle takes precedence over caster angle, and you can't adjust one without changing the other; so, no, you probably can't fix your caster issue. Dropping the TC won't change your caster angle. Should I be worried about my caster being a degree or so out of the comfort zone?
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Jun 30, 2015 02:06
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quote:Should I be worried about my caster being a degree or so out of the comfort zone? I wouldn't worry. I have 10'. 
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Jun 30, 2015 03:12
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http://annapolis.craigslist.org/cto/5090292077.html A bit Rare and of course overpriced for the shape its in. Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 09:17
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Krakkles posted:It's 8.5', right? So basically yours only goes in a straight line at that point? Higher caster = worse steering, right?
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Jun 30, 2015 13:10
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Most people have issues with low caster after lifting their jeeps, causing them to wander over the road. Maybe your control arm bushings are hosed, allowing the axle to twist?
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Jun 30, 2015 14:52
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Low caster = higher degree measurement?
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Jun 30, 2015 16:19
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Low caster angle means that the wheels have a weaker return-to-center force and less bite when cornering; mine will follow the contours of the road pretty well, as I only have a caster angle of about 3°.
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Jun 30, 2015 16:58
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Sandbagger SA posted:But you're getting swole right?  Leaving my doors on this year, I don't have anywhere to put the hard top anymore. Hopefully next year I'll be somewhere with a garage.
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Jun 30, 2015 18:04
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FreelanceSocialist posted:So basically yours only goes in a straight line at that point? Higher caster = worse steering, right? Like he said, it follows contours less. It's not anymore difficult to steer when wheeling, but it does have more of a tendency to return to center. It's nice when you're on Hell's revenge - point it the way you want to go, let go, and it follows.
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Jun 30, 2015 18:48
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Ughhhhh. Power brakes went out on the WJ literally as I was rolling into my driveway. Can't see anything disconnected under the hood but there's a definite sucking sound that wasn't there before. Odds that I have a broken vacuum line instead of a lovely booster?
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Jul 1, 2015 02:00
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I'd say pretty good, I've never heard of a WJ booster failing, they're a common upgrade on 94-down XJs/MJs. But then again I don't live in the desert where the environment eats rubber for breakfast and especially lunch.
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Jul 1, 2015 02:12
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Likely either the booster or the check valve (it pops right out of the booster.) I had a really, really slow leak in my XJ for I don't know how long because it only presented itself when driving for long stretches without touching the brakes. Went to take an exit for gas and the pedal sunk in, the brake light lit up on the dash and after some loving around it eventually 'fixed' itself for a few weeks, as I usually only drive around town. Next road trip, it did it again. Hose was good, valve was good, so I found a booster in the junkyard for $40 and everything is fine...other than for some reason, the rod from the booster is slightly shorter so I had to rig up a spacer on the brake pedal shaft to keep my brake lights off when not in use.
Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 03:08
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I am apparently quite lucky tonight, or at least, my wallet is. Vacuum line for the booster just slipped off. Looks like it never had a clamp on it, even from the factory, and it takes next to no effort to slide it off again. Threw a clamp on it to be sure.
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Jul 1, 2015 05:36
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The line to my booster has no clamps and is not exactly easy to pull off. Perhaps the rubber got soaked in something that softened it up?
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Jul 1, 2015 05:59
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It looked bone dry to me - rubber hoses out here when they get old enough just lose any actual flexibility.
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Jul 1, 2015 06:02
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My XJ has been taking extra long to start lately. Is there an easy way to determine if I'm losing pressure to a crummy check valve or a leaking injector without using a fuel pressure gauge? In other news: Cat Hatter posted:Crossposting from the Top Gear thread: In case anybody cares, they finally aired this episode of Top Gear in the UK. Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 06:31 on Jul 1, 2015 |
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Jul 1, 2015 06:28
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Cat Hatter posted:My XJ has been taking extra long to start lately. Is there an easy way to determine if I'm losing pressure to a crummy check valve or a leaking injector without using a fuel pressure gauge? YESSSSS
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Jul 1, 2015 13:21
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I need to find someone that I can trust to change the differential and transfer case oils, this poo poo is an ordeal to do right.
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Jul 3, 2015 03:39
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How is changing the diff oil an ordeal? Is it missing a drain or fill plug?
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Jul 3, 2015 05:26
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EightBit posted:I need to find someone that I can trust to change the differential and transfer case oils, this poo poo is an ordeal to do right. I would trust even my dumbest coworker from valvoline with this task. And I really hate getting the drat bottle into the fill plug, since it usually doesn't have room or a good angle, but not enough to pay someone else to do it.
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Jul 3, 2015 05:35
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I have been bitten by hundreds of mosquitoes and lost gallons of sweat. I don't just loosen the cover enough to drain the old oil out, I take the cover off and wipe/brakleen the old oil out. And you either have to take off the skid plate, or deal with the transfer case draining onto it then out four different holes simultaneously. I'm used to this city being a desert in summer, not a mosquito-ridden swampland. The amount of rain we've been getting is ridiculous. I haven't been able to get onto my favorite bike trails but once this year, they've been mud the rest of the time. I at least have a bottle pump to make refilling easy, but I've done it without one before.
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Jul 3, 2015 05:43
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The biggest pain in the rear end for me was prying the covers off - the PO's shop clearly must've used Right Stuff to put them on because holy loving hell they were a battle coming off. Had to use it going on for the rear too because they don't make a Lubelocker for the D44a.
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Jul 3, 2015 06:10
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I can't figure out a sure answer to this but I feel like someone here will know. What's an exhaust manifold I can order (or preferably pick up at a parts store locally) for a 1999 XJ that wont require any grinding for fitment and also has the expansion joints?
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Jul 3, 2015 07:36
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kastein posted:I would trust even my dumbest coworker from valvoline with this task. Is there a decent pump for this that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I changed the oil in both diffs last month, and that cheap parts store hand pump is a loving pain in the shoulder. Took probably 10 minutes per bottle, and leaks all over anyway.
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Jul 3, 2015 18:47
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I've got this one: It doesn't move a whole lot per pump, but the effort required is low and mine hasn't leaked a drop between the two axles and the transfer case.
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Jul 3, 2015 22:58
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Yeah that looks like mine, but it leaks and takes forever. I've used it on three differentials and one transmission, and it's been a mess every time. Easier than trying to tip a bottle, but ugh.
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Jul 3, 2015 23:57
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The Harbor Freight pump has worked well for me.
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Jul 4, 2015 00:09
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I made a beer bong with a really long hose for filling things like that.
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Jul 4, 2015 01:45
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Cat Hatter posted:I made a beer bong with a really long hose for filling things like that. This. I hang it off my roof rack.
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Jul 4, 2015 02:19
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I had to put ten gallons of 75w140 into the diffs on the 5 ton when I did them after purchase and quickly realized buying a rotary barrel pump was in my best interest.
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Jul 4, 2015 05:19
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