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kastein posted:Yeah that's a loving travesty and whoever did it is an idiot. That's my guess but I don't know for sure. I'm just glad I'm a 12 hour drive away from that office right now. edit: I made a longer effort post on this topic in the shitbox dodge thread for anyone interested torb main fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Jul 23, 2015 |
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Jul 23, 2015 20:39
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Why does the head unit even need to be on a bus that can talk to brakes, engine control, etc.  With the recent Toyota brake issue and code mess too hopefully auto manufacturers will start to realize security and development best practices are just as critical as making sure the gas tank doesn't explode when rear-ended.
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Jul 23, 2015 23:49
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If they don't, I'm sure the feds will the first time this kind of thing kills someone and they need to make a public example of someone.
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Jul 24, 2015 00:42
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mod sassinator posted:Why does the head unit even need to be on a bus that can talk to brakes, engine control, etc. Diagnostic reporting. The radio collects and transmits information about diagnostic trouble codes so FCA can report on field failure trends and things like that, and it also uses signals direct from the powertrain ECUs for features like email vehicle health report. I understand why it was done this way, but obviously the more secure implementation would have all of that information abstracted behind a gateway or available on a completely separate network. I think the original thinking was that security by obscurity would make it too difficult to make this attack vector relevant. Obviously that assumption was wrong.
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Jul 24, 2015 00:53
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God, there's a terrible thought. Beyond the easy way to kill one of these vehicles remotely (disable the transmission and set the accelerator to the floor until the block windows), I wonder if you can do something more insidious. They're designed to accept remote firmware updates, so it could be possible to simply overwrite the firmware with junk code and create a $40k paperweight that'll need extensive dealership work (which wouldn't be covered under warranty) to roll again.
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Jul 24, 2015 04:05
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The automotive future is a scary place. I'm glad I just put a fresh 4.0 in my Jeep, I'm set for a decade or more.
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Jul 24, 2015 04:21
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What'd that cost you? Mine doesn't need one -now-, but I'm curious just how expensive it would be if I needed it.
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Jul 24, 2015 04:23
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Liquid Communism posted:What'd that cost you? Mine doesn't need one -now-, but I'm curious just how expensive it would be if I needed it. I got lucky and got a whole, mistreated engine off of CL for $340, but that was a minor expense after the machine shop work etc. added up; I probably spent about $2400-2500 on it total. That includes stronger pistons, four-hole injectors, a few tools, and the stupid-expensive Yella-Terra roller rockers. That's basically the works, completely cleaned and magnafluxed block, bored .020" over, cam bearings, head rebuilt, new everything everywhere. You could do it cheaper, but why would you, since it means that you'll have to tear into it sooner.
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Jul 24, 2015 04:34
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Liquid Communism posted:They're designed to accept remote firmware updates Assuming you're talking about Jeeps, this isn't true. There's no (supported) method to directly update the firmware remotely on a Uconnect radio. That'll probably change soon, though
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Jul 24, 2015 06:09
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Liquid Communism posted:If they don't, I'm sure the feds will the first time this kind of thing kills someone and they need to make a public example of someone. Your car has been installed with defective firmware! Your brakes will be disabled after the time specified in this window. Click <Next> to select the method of payment (Bitcoin or MoneyPak) to avoid brake failure. Warning: Any attempt to remove or damage this firmware will lead to the immediate destruction of your car.
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Jul 24, 2015 08:32
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Liquid Communism posted:What'd that cost you? Mine doesn't need one -now-, but I'm curious just how expensive it would be if I needed it. Kastein got me mine for my EFI swap for $100 a few years back. I kinda got what I paid for because although it's still running, it's been rattle/knocking pretty much since it was installed.
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Jul 24, 2015 12:52
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EightBit posted:I got lucky and got a whole, mistreated engine off of CL for $340, but that was a minor expense after the machine shop work etc. added up; I probably spent about $2400-2500 on it total. That includes stronger pistons, four-hole injectors, a few tools, and the stupid-expensive Yella-Terra roller rockers. That's basically the works, completely cleaned and magnafluxed block, bored .020" over, cam bearings, head rebuilt, new everything everywhere. You could do it cheaper, but why would you, since it means that you'll have to tear into it sooner. Sandbagger SA posted:Kastein got me mine for my EFI swap for $100 a few years back. Thanks for the rough ideas. I'm planning on driving this Jeep until it turns into a frankenstein of a half dozen other jeeps at this point, so having an idea what a full rebuild would cost to do is a good thing. I'm already in for new wheels, tires, and fans, and am about to do brakes all around/shocks/springs to refresh the tired stock parts and get another few years of ride. That's still well within my price limit for working on this thing, which is essentially 'what I'll lose in interest on a new car loan'.
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Jul 24, 2015 13:16
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If you live in the rust belt you can probably get a junkyard pull one for 100-300 and slam it in there after replacing the RMS, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket. Done. If it blows again in 5 years do it again. I usually don't even bother cleaning the accumulated oil/dirt sludge layer off the outside of the engine before throwing it in, it's just going to recoat itself next week anyways.
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Jul 24, 2015 14:09
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kastein posted:If you live in the rust belt you can probably get a junkyard pull one for 100-300 and slam it in there after replacing the RMS, oil pan gasket, and valve cover gasket. Done. If it blows again in 5 years do it again. Why would you strip off the 4.0's natural protective coating?
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Jul 24, 2015 18:38
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ThinkFear posted:Why would you strip off the 4.0's natural protective coating? "Patina."
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Jul 24, 2015 18:44
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ThinkFear posted:Why would you strip off the 4.0's natural protective coating? Hey man, people do. I sure don't, I have better poo poo to do than that.
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Jul 24, 2015 19:50
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You're making me rethink painting mine AMC Motor blue. If it's just gonna get grungy again, I might as well just save the $20. All I need now is a cam and water pump. And a buddy to hoist the engine. And money. Lots of money.
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Jul 24, 2015 22:53
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Ehhhh what's another 20 bucks
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Jul 24, 2015 23:17
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Clean engines are much more fun to work on. Engines are much easier to clean outside of the car, and much easier to keep clean once they are. I'm going to paint mine. Maybe gold 
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Jul 24, 2015 23:39
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With my old truck, I painted almost everything with high-temp gloss white so I could immediately see where poo poo was leaking. Mostly because if anything leaked, it meant it was about to bit the dust. Unlike the Jeep, which is now leaking oil and possibly ATF or power steering fluid or something. I have to check. Also, rear end in a top hat at parts store ordered wrong Lubelocker gasket for my rear 8.25" diff even after we argued about it so now I am sitting here waiting for Amazon to deliver a replacement. Tried to support the local guys, but nooooo. gently caress them from now on. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Jul 25, 2015 |
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Jul 25, 2015 14:02
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Why use a gasket? Unless you were ordering a lubelocker gasket, skip it and use a tube of rtv, seals fine without a paper gasket, maybe even better. As far as I know the factory RTVed them on, actually.
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Jul 25, 2015 14:22
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^ the only problem I hate about going gasketless is if the RTV wasn't completely dry before you add the fluid it just shits its self out. Where as a gasket and RTV is usually a little more forgiving if your in a rush.
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Jul 25, 2015 15:05
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kastein posted:Why use a gasket? Unless you were ordering a lubelocker gasket, skip it and use a tube of rtv, seals fine without a paper gasket, maybe even better. As far as I know the factory RTVed them on, actually. Oops - yes. I was shelling out for Lubelockers. I really, really like them. Used to go RTV but reusable LL's are fantastic, especially if you are doing your diff fluid more than once in a blue moon. My rear diff was RTV'd last time and I wanted to upgrade to make life easier.
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Jul 25, 2015 16:06
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No argument with that, I have a lubelocker on the front diff in my MJ and it is awesome.
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Jul 25, 2015 18:01
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As I've become rather good at making inconsequential modifications to jeeps: Here is my newest POUCH. Oh - and also I bashed on the front end of my MJ for about an hour today working on the bumper/fenders. I test fitted the new grille. 
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Jul 26, 2015 03:59
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kastein posted:No argument with that, I have a lubelocker on the front diff in my MJ and it is awesome. Installed one on both diffs when I drained the factory oil at 50k miles. Looking forward to never scraping again.
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Jul 26, 2015 17:55
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The other day I went with my friend to check out this MJ since she doesn't drive manual yet http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/cto/5124589342.html It was pretty clapped out so she passed but now I'm toying with picking it up as a beater/project truck. It looks a bit worse in person than the photos, he conveniently cropped out the worst body/interior damage in the photos. What a guy. What is an acceptably insulting lowball offer to throw out there or should I just stay away entirely? Oh yeah almost forgot, no inspection sticker and no tags. He says title is clean
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Jul 29, 2015 00:49
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TACTICAL SANDALS posted:The other day I went with my friend to check out this MJ since she doesn't drive manual yet Photos on the ramp of a fire department. This means it was run to red line from dead cold on a regular basis. Trust me on this one. It's what we do.
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Jul 29, 2015 01:48
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It's a jeep 4.0/2.5, you could do that forever and it would probably still run. That being said, it is an 86. They have a number of issues, you can't easily swap a 4.0 in, the trannies all blow rear end, and the clutch pedal assembly isn't properly braced to the firewall so they crack the firewall frequently unless patched up in ways the factory never did. Skip it unless you find no others, you want an 87 through 92. The MJ quite literally got better every single year, unlike the XJ, which had some fits and starts in the 90s. If you get an 87-89.0 your tranny choices are aw4 auto (great) ax5 manual (behind the 2.5, sucks) and ba10/5 (behind the 4.0, sucks more) while 89.5-92 got the ax5 (still behind the 2.5) and ax15 (with the 4.0) which is a pretty solid box.
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Jul 29, 2015 03:07
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kastein posted:It's a jeep 4.0/2.5, you could do that forever and it would probably still run. Thanks, I'll skip it. There's always a couple on CL in the $2-3k range that look a lot better than this shitbox.
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Jul 29, 2015 05:04
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Just saw this on CL. Kind of wondering what he's on about.
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Jul 29, 2015 13:04
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Just saw this on CL. Kind of wondering what he's on about. people who list things for $1 on CL are the worst.
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Jul 29, 2015 13:10
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Nah - read the post itself (though I agree - gently caress $1 people). He's trying to find someone who bought the XJ as he's one of the PO's and knows something is up w/ it. I'm thinking it's a frankenjeep w/ a trans swap that the most recent owner did not disclose. In other XJ news, mine did not pass inspection this AM. Needs new brakelines, new trans cooler lines, possibly some floor pan repair, and the mechanic wrote down "front driveshaft too short due to lift". What? How's that a thing? Making me sad because I really like this XJ but it is turning into a money pit. FreelanceSocialist fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Jul 29, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 13:13
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Sandbagger SA posted:people who list things for $1 on CL are the worst. I use the $ filter and I filter out anything under $5, whether it's car parts or whole cars. It also filters out people who can't be troubled to decide on an asking price in the first place by leaving it blank.
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Jul 29, 2015 15:24
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FreelanceSocialist posted:Nah - read the post itself (though I agree - gently caress $1 people). He's trying to find someone who bought the XJ as he's one of the PO's and knows something is up w/ it. I'm thinking it's a frankenjeep w/ a trans swap that the most recent owner did not disclose. In other XJ news, mine did not pass inspection this AM. Needs new brakelines, new trans cooler lines, possibly some floor pan repair, and the mechanic wrote down "front driveshaft too short due to lift". What? How's that a thing? Brake lines are like 100 bucks if you get all factory prebent lines, 50 if you go cunifer and flare it yourself (do this.) Trans cooler lines are 80 bucks for all of them, and an afternoon job (dorman 624-300, 624-301, 624-334 and two 800-714s.) Floor pan... number of ways to go about that, some involve a "no parking" sign and selftappers+roofing tar, others involve cheap raybuck patch panels and a welder. Driveshaft... that might be a thing, take a pic. How much lift? If anything, it would probably be too long at ride height, though... or some PO put a mantrans front shaft in an auto trans XJ (assuming 4.0 here) and it is 1.4" too short.
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Jul 29, 2015 18:39
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3" lift. Need a shot at the transfer case or of the whole thing?
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Jul 29, 2015 19:18
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Got my JK wheels and tires on my XJ today. Looks damned good. Managed to pull the door trim off when a tire got loose, but it was falling off anyway. I spent a bit more to get name brand adapters. Will still be overly paranoid about checking them. Now to find a 31 tooth short speedo gear!  
Veeb0rg fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Jul 30, 2015 |
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Jul 29, 2015 22:17
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Veeb0rg posted:Got my JK wheels and tires on my XJ today. Looks damned good. Managed to pull the door trim off when a tire got loose, but it was falling off anyway. I spent a bit more to get name brand adapters. Will still be overly paranoid about checking them. Those look pretty great.
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Jul 30, 2015 12:24
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Greetings All - Recently moved to a new town and holy poo poo, the Jeeps are EVERYWHERE. I have didn't really start noticing them until I saw one pass me every 3-5 seconds. Sometimes cute girls are driving, sometimes older dudes, sometimes para-military bro's with black wheels with stars for axles. Anyway - I gotta have one. What year model do I want, what engine do I want, and what variant do I want? This will be a fun toy to go to and from the airport from my house. Maybe 5 miles. I don't _plan_ on doing any offloading. I've never been big into mudding or lifting or huge tires or whatever, but I am certainly not opposed. Basically, am I avoiding 4 cylinders, and super mega lifts and etc etc? I want to spend in the ballpark of 5-8 grand, so obviously nothing new... just enough for a decent toy, right?
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Jul 31, 2015 06:03
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| # ? Apr 18, 2024 11:54 |
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I've always been partial to Wranglers. Yes avoid the 4-cylinder. You might not hate your life with it, but it offers NO advantages over the six and has some disadvantages. Mine got 13 mpg on the highway so you don't even get anything there...and it maxed out at 60 mph. In that price range, you're not getting a JK (07+), and probably not even decent TJ (96-06) at least around here. At the higher end, you might find a deal, but most of them will be basketcases. But a YJ (87?-95, square headlights) is right in there and are cool as hell. As lackluster as my drivetrain was, I loved my '93 and hated selling it. They're fun to toss around and basically everything can be fixed for the price of parts and beer. Make friends or join a club with a guy who can weld. There are definitely XJs in that price range too, but I know next to nothing about them. Other posters here can chime in, or check out the NAXJA site.
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Jul 31, 2015 06:22
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