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I did a thing. Those God Awful nugget wheels that were cool in 1998 needed a bit of a touch up. before 
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Aug 20, 2016 18:53
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Maybe I'm in the minority, but I liked them better 'before'. In fact, that's kind of what I'm after for my JKU. Black is ok though
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Aug 20, 2016 20:03
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Here's the mud from the inside of my coolant overflow bottle. This is the poo poo that was either left inside during engine assembly or has precipitated due to shoddy materials reacting with the coolant. It has completely plugged up my heater core and probably large sections of the radiator, and why I'm replacing it all. Last December the dealership flushed the system like 5 times until it came out clear, so this is just what's broken loose over the past 9 months. gently caress you, Chrysler.  It's about 1/4" deep, for reference.
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Aug 21, 2016 01:20
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How the gently caress did they leave that much greensand in the castings and not notice? 
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Aug 21, 2016 01:51
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It's not uncommon in early Pentastars. It's not a safety issue, so gently caress getting a recall. Edit: By "not uncommon" I mean it seems to happen about as often as the cylinder head problems. On the plus side, I'm on my third cruise control switch but it finally works again.
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Aug 21, 2016 02:53
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I replaced a rear hub on 2007 grand cherokee, but can't find any torque specifications for the four bolts that hold the hub in. Anyone have that info handy? I'd prefer my wheel not to fall off while driving. edit: Tightned with a breaker bar to what felt nice and snug. I also was going to install a lower grille I ordered from rock auto. There's a gap with radiator, but apparently only the SRT model has any covering of it? DARPA fucked around with this message at 21:43 on Aug 21, 2016 |
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Aug 21, 2016 18:47
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I recently finished installing an almost entire new rear suspension in my YJ. All Rubicon Express components, installed new 4" SUA springs, new front eye bushings, new 6 deg angle shims and center pins, new u bolts and spring plates (the spring plates we're loving insane expensive but they are pretty cool I guess), rear boomerang shackles and all bushings. It rides 100 times better. It's amazing. I'll probably do the front end over winter, but the rear had to be done now due to failure. Took it out on a trail last weekend and it is so much more pleasant. In other news.... Is there anyone else who has issues getting into 4wd? I'll put it in 4 low and the gearing will obviously change to "low" but the front doesn't get power. I have to gently caress with it a fair bit, but then once it's in it has never slipped out or anything, and I've been getting as rad as I dare. And ideas?
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Aug 22, 2016 19:35
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My 4.0 TJ overheated a few days ago - running AC full blast on a 100° day, while going up hill in 4th. I had been watching the temp gauge, and it made it to the '0' on 210 and was holding there for a while, until I looked down and it was at the start of the red and the check gauges light lit up. I pulled over right away and let it cool, released the pressure, and topped it off with water. No leaks aside from what boiled off and went into the overflow tank. My radiator and both hoses are about 6 months old, and the thermostat is a couple of years at least. I know that my system right now has a decent amount of water in it versus coolant, so I'm planning on draining it and filling with 50/50 using concentrate. It's been driving fine since the overheat so I feel like it was perhaps a one-time thing that would be taken care of by replacing fluid - maybe the percentage of water is too much for it too cool efficiently on a hot day? A guy pulled over right after me to offer assistance, and he asked about my fan clutch. He said it looked like it should have less rotation with the engine off. It's not too hard to move. Maybe I should replace that too, since the Jeep is at 205k now. THE BLACK NINJA posted:Is there anyone else who has issues getting into 4wd? I'll put it in 4 low and the gearing will obviously change to "low" but the front doesn't get power. I have to gently caress with it a fair bit, but then once it's in it has never slipped out or anything, and I've been getting as rad as I dare. And ideas? Is your front axle vacuum-actuated?
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Aug 22, 2016 19:46
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IIRC water has a higher thermal capacity than glycol coolant additive, actually. The only reason we use additives is to extend the freezing and boiling points a bit and protect against corrosion. I would suspect the fan clutch as well. The only time my 91 MJ ever overheated was because my fan clutch got weak, and my 88 MJ I'm running now is showing all the signs of both a failed fan clutch and a stuck open thermostat (now that I've replaced the absolutely destroyed radiator that had almost no fins left from roadsalt.) Yesterday in 90 degree heat it was running at 170 when moving at at least 20mph, but would jump quickly above 210 and just keep climbing if I sat idling for a while. I've got a brand new fan clutch for it, just haven't bothered installing it yet.
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Aug 22, 2016 19:55
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Astonishing Wang posted:Is your front axle vacuum-actuated? It is not, I did away with that nonsense a couple months ago.
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Aug 22, 2016 19:55
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:It is not, I did away with that nonsense a couple months ago.
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Aug 22, 2016 20:34
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Krakkles posted:How did you do it? Has it worked at all since then? I used the bigger TJ axles with the bigger u joints etc. Solid passenger side axle. The disco fork is still there floating uselessly so that the 4wd light comes on because  The thing is that it works flawlessly once it's engaged, but it doesn't want to "go in" to 4wd, though it does engage the low range. Edit to clarify: I can get it into 4wd and it works great. Trouble is the initial "getting it into 4wd" is something of a hassle.
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Aug 22, 2016 20:37
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Does it usually require the jeep to roll a couple of feet before it will engage?
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Aug 22, 2016 20:50
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Astonishing Wang posted:Does it usually require the jeep to roll a couple of feet before it will engage? Unfortunately not. I did try that though. It's more of put it into 4 low, nope that wasn't it, repeat till its in. To me it's very obvious in the steering once it's in 4wd.
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Aug 22, 2016 20:54
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I used the bigger TJ axles with the bigger u joints etc. Solid passenger side axle. The disco fork is still there floating uselessly so that the 4wd light comes on because You swapped out/added the seal that needs to be changed too right?
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Aug 22, 2016 22:03
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kastein posted:You swapped out/added the seal that needs to be changed too right? Yessir. It doesn't work for poo poo though. I did the out board CAD seal and the bonus seal at the pumpkin. Between both of them I still leak a small amount of oil if I'm parked with my passenger side downhill. I figure the axle tube is a lot higher than the bottom of the diff so eventually it will stop dripping and I'll still have plenty in there. Dana 30 with a lunchbox locker in it. Re: 4wd engagement: I can really feel when it goes in. It also seems to go in better if I'm on flat. Which is blazed because I live in the hills. (Not of Beverly)
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Aug 22, 2016 22:25
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Well the drat clutch bearing is poo poo. I started to take the clutch off and the further I got into it, the more obvious the whole thing is toast so I'm going to bite the bullet and just replace the compressor. Anyone used this kit from Rock Auto? It's the cheapest I can find for all of the parts I (think) I need. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3909948&cc=1431776&jsn=389&jsn=389&jsn=389 Can I get away with just doing the compressor or should I replace the line and accumulator? I'll probably leave the evaporator as is unless someone tells me otherwise. I just don't want to replace everything if I don't have any leaks. Other than the compressor dying, the a/c blows cold. DAT RAM fucked around with this message at 23:52 on Aug 22, 2016 |
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Aug 22, 2016 23:44
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DAT RAM posted:Well the drat clutch bearing is poo poo. I started to take the clutch off and the further I got into it, the more obvious the whole thing is toast so I'm going to bite the bullet and just replace the compressor. You absolutely need to replace the line and accumulator. The line has an orifice in it that tends to clog and then slowly (or quickly) kill your compressor and the accumulator is where your dessicant is that keeps any moisture in the lines from destroying your compressor. Besides, the warranty on the new compressor won't be any good if you don't replace those at the same time (flush the system too).
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Aug 23, 2016 03:48
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How safe are 96-01 Cherokees compared to modern cars? My wife likes em and I'm thinking of https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/5745981907.html as a wife mobile. I know it's overpriced but considering how hard it is to find one that hasn't been beat to poo poo as a wheeler or hunting rig if be willing to pay a little extra.
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Aug 23, 2016 12:25
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blk posted:How safe are 96-01 Cherokees compared to modern cars? 96-01 is a powertrain split, the body started getting safety updates in 95 (all mechanical driver airbags with no passenger airbag, new steering wheel and column, door side impact bars, new seats with different frames, floor brace to trans tunnel, etc) and then got the obd2 drivetrain control system in 96, then the whole new chassis outside and interior redesign with new electronic dual airbags and an even better column. Not sure I would really compare any of them to a modern car though.
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Aug 23, 2016 14:37
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blk posted:How safe are 96-01 Cherokees compared to modern cars? Look east 100-200 miles (Hermiston/Tri-Cities/Yakima/Eastern Oregon), there are nice deals that pop up on them frequently.
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Aug 23, 2016 14:41
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blk posted:How safe are 96-01 Cherokees compared to modern cars? If kids are a concern, my 99 XJ doesn't have the LATCH system and the rear seatbelts don't lock. Putting my kids seats in was a little tricky, but 95% of the time we go some where we're in my wife's Pathfinder.
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Aug 23, 2016 15:20
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Also find out what happened to the rear driver's side. The 4x4 sticker is missing, which screams repaint.
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Aug 23, 2016 15:24
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Cat Hatter posted:You absolutely need to replace the line and accumulator. The line has an orifice in it that tends to clog and then slowly (or quickly) kill your compressor and the accumulator is where your dessicant is that keeps any moisture in the lines from destroying your compressor. Besides, the warranty on the new compressor won't be any good if you don't replace those at the same time (flush the system too). Okay, I'll replace all that stuff too. Rock Auto has the best price on all of it so I'll probably get it ordered. This is my first go at AC work DAT RAM fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Aug 23, 2016 |
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Aug 23, 2016 15:28
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I think the late 90s Cherokees had a 4 star crash test rating, but that was back when 4 stars meant "steering column might move upward into cabin and caused our dummy's head to bottom out the airbag and contact the steering wheel" and nobody gave a poo poo about side impact. All cars back then sucked out loud compared to modern cars with regards to safety though. DAT RAM posted:Okay, I'll replace all that stuff too. Rock Auto has the best price on all of it so I'll probably get it ordered. This is my first go at AC work Get the metal AC/Fuel Line Disconnect Tool Set from Harbor Freight. It's about the same price as the plastic one from the auto parts store that I got and I've heard better things about it. The plastic ones still work, but feel like they're going to break while trying wrestle two stuck lines apart.
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Aug 23, 2016 18:14
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Make sure your wife is comfortable driving a high center of gravity mostly rear-wheel drive vehicle with live axles. They aren't death traps but driving a Cherokee in rain, slick conditions, or just not understanding basics physics can be a recipe for disaster. I've known some people that have rolled them at speed on the highway because they swerved too quickly, etc. There was also a recall of all the Grand Cherokee ZJ models and their gas tanks that should have also applied to XJ Cherokees but somehow Chrysler got them to not do it IIRC. Something about the placement of the gas tank not being good for rear collisions and the need to add more protection. I don't know of any big problems but just something to look into. I don't think I'd use a XJ as a daily driver kid hauler for example. If your wife likes the look of the XJ but wants a more modern/safe car maybe look at a Patriot? edit: ZJ gas tank issue: http://www.cbsnews.com/news/chrysler-jeep-recall-gas-tank-explosions-still-raising-safety-concerns/ From what I understand the XJ is exactly the same but somehow Chrysler convinced them it didn't need to be recalled (which would have been millions and millions of vehicles, they sold a poo poo ton of XJs). mod sassinator fucked around with this message at 19:44 on Aug 23, 2016 |
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Aug 23, 2016 19:41
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TotalLossBrain posted:Look east 100-200 miles (Hermiston/Tri-Cities/Yakima/Eastern Oregon), there are nice deals that pop up on them frequently. Yeah, I just can't seem to find anything in this good of shape. Apparently someone got in line before me 5 min after the post came up; he turned out to be a no-show so seller is now offering it to me with a catch: quote:Due to the high demand, I'm now asking $6,200. Gross. I almost want to show up and waste her time now. mod sassinator posted:Make sure your wife is comfortable driving a high center of gravity mostly rear-wheel drive vehicle with live axles. They aren't death traps but driving a Cherokee in rain, slick conditions, or just not understanding basics physics can be a recipe for disaster. I've known some people that have rolled them at speed on the highway because they swerved too quickly, etc. Thanks for this; I'm leaning towards 'no' on the car for safety purposes (and for the inflated price). Wife and I really like the way the XJ looks and what its capable of, but for our use case it doesn't make the most sense - I'd rather a safer crossover that handles well on pavement, like a 1st gen RDX or CX5. Actually, I'd really like a reliable, larger, quickish AWD wagon, but those don't exist at my pricepoint.
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Aug 24, 2016 04:34
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blk posted:Yeah, I just can't seem to find anything in this good of shape. Apparently someone got in line before me 5 min after the post came up; he turned out to be a no-show so seller is now offering it to me with a catch: Forester XT from the short model year or two they dropped the WRX STI engine in with a smaller turbo.
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Aug 24, 2016 05:59
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mod sassinator posted:Forester XT from the short model year or two they dropped the WRX STI engine in with a smaller turbo. Yeah, I circle around to those sometimes -they're stupid overpriced here though and that engine pairs horribly with the 4EAT My first choice is a 07-09 Outback 3.0 with a non-saddle shoe, non gold or non black color but those are unobtanium.
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Aug 24, 2016 07:23
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Abandoned my thread, Ill make a new one when this build starts. I bought a 2016 colorado a few months back to have as a DD so I can build the comanche. I have a lead on some cheap DOM tubing for the roll cage and slowisfast and I are figuring out the bender situation. I am keeping the 4.0 and running 2wd. It will get an 8.8 LSD rear. I am debating on keeping the existing ax15 with transfer case unless someone thinks that it won't stand up to the abuse. Not sure if I want to keep the front dana 30 with no driveshaft, or if I am going to swap in a beam front. Once I get logbooked, then I will be running NASA events until I get enough coefficient points to run the ex-rally america races. Going to repaint the truck red and do the truck up with archer brothers livery.
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Aug 24, 2016 15:38
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blk posted:Yeah, I circle around to those sometimes -they're stupid overpriced here though and that engine pairs horribly with the 4EAT How do you know that you're in the Pacific Northwest? Look to your left, look to your right, Subaru Outback.
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Aug 24, 2016 17:00
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iForge posted:Going to repaint the truck red and do the truck up with archer brothers livery. I'm dying to see this build. I really, really miss my old MJ.
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Aug 24, 2016 18:17
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I found a solution to my led side markers not working if my headlights are on. The stock marker light wires for a bulb don't actually have a fixed ground so it gets messed up for leds when you turn the park or headlights on. I found a good writeup on wrangler forum with it. http://www.wranglerforum.com/f210/led-turn-signals-not-working-911906.html#post13756249 Parts list for fixing it is 4 diodes two resistors and a bit of wire to give the leds a dedicated ground.
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Aug 29, 2016 21:37
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Right before I left on vacation for a week, A/C cuts out instantly halfway home. Spend an hour or so diagnosing it and it looked like an open circuit on the clutch coil. Come home, fire it up... works perfectly? And now the left turn signal doesn't work unless I hit the hazard switch first. loving Chrysler.
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Aug 29, 2016 21:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Right before I left on vacation for a week, A/C cuts out instantly halfway home. Spend an hour or so diagnosing it and it looked like an open circuit on the clutch coil. That sounds like a multifunction switch problem. My horn and steering wheel buttons stopped working after i left the sunroof open in a rain storm. Finding a replacement wheel is proving to be difficult.
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Aug 30, 2016 00:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:Right before I left on vacation for a week, A/C cuts out instantly halfway home. Spend an hour or so diagnosing it and it looked like an open circuit on the clutch coil. My new (third) cruise control switch seems to work about 2/3 of the time. No apparent rhyme or reason.
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Aug 30, 2016 00:48
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mashed_penguin posted:led side markers not working if my headlights are on. IOwnCalculus posted:A/C cuts out instantly halfway home. SouthsideSaint posted:My horn and steering wheel buttons stopped working after i left the sunroof open in a rain storm. Godholio posted:My new (third) cruise control switch seems to work about 2/3 of the time. You guys jelly of my YJ? 
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Aug 31, 2016 00:15
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Coil spring fell out, sure wish I had a YJ!
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Aug 31, 2016 00:23
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Astonishing Wang posted:Coil spring fell out, sure wish I had a YJ! 
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Aug 31, 2016 00:26
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 10:42 |
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You are pretty much asking for a random electrical fault now. 
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Aug 31, 2016 00:27
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