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Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Rhyno posted:

So the Comanche seller has dropped his asking price to $1000. Now I'm thinking offering $750-800. I don't want to lowball the guy but the mileage is pretty high and there's a few spots of rust forming on the read wheel wells. Thoughts?

Do it. I'm bias as hell though since I had to have my sister talk me out of calling about one on Craigslist this weekend.

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Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Philip J Fry posted:

$50 on ebay; it came with a .pdf copy on a CD which is nice so I can just print off what I need and take out to the garage with me, so I don't have to worry about getting it all wrinkled and dirty.

I'm not sure if this is :filez: territory, but greatlakesxj.com has a resource page where all the FSM's are posted in PDF form. I'm pretty sure those ebay service manuals are just some dude burning the files to a CD and anyways. Some guy in my state spams craigs list with factory service manuals in PDF form only 15 dollars all kinds buy now.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Dividend Special posted:

Yeah, I'll need to rethink the tire size. How wide can I go before rubbing starts to be an issue?

How does 3" and 33x10.50 sound?
Tell me more about using S-10 or Dakota leaf packs. What sort of modification am I looking at? Other than different shackles, is it basically bolt in? Would I have to extend brake lines?

The s10 or dakota leaf springs get merged into your Cherokee leafs. It's commonly known as a "bastard pack".

Like Philip J Fry said. Bastard pack out back. Grand Cherokee coils up front. Cheap budget boost for a Cherokee.

Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Dec 22, 2009

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Apparently the tweeters in WJ's are known for blowing out on all of them. To the point where some guy started a website selling JUST the tweeters.

http://www.jeeptweeter.com/

I bought a replacement pair of the cheapo's to throw in. They sound alright, but gently caress was it easy. Pop off the panel, 4 screws, two clips. Put it back together, done. I wish my car was that easy.

If you've got a WJ with blown tweeters and actually give a poo poo, replacing them is stupid simple.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

All this J10 talk is making me miss my folks J10 they used to have. All the snob moms hated my mom for dropping me off at preschool in a kickin' rad J10. I used to play in the bed of that loving thing for hours.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

LouReed posted:

After months of not being able to afford parts, I finally got a gas tank and some fuel injectors for my Comanche in the mail today! Stay tuned for possibly exciting updates tomorrow!

Please for the love of god post pictures. I'm positively gay for Comanches and am looking for shortbed one to destroy my bank account.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Cheap Bourbon posted:

How hosed in the head does one have to be to pick up an MJ (unknown year, unknown mileage, but "it has the 6-cyl") Are many suspension/engine parts interchangeable between an MJ and XJ's ?

I'm (still) looking for a trail rig and this one hit the stupid price marker....

The MJ is the same from the cab forward, rear parts get harder to find.

As for your link, stock tail lights are getting harder to find for MJ's. You could eventually snipe one off ebay or comancheclub, or just DIY autopart store replacements. The MJ leafs are different I think, this leaf spring guide I found explains it better than I could. Companies still sell MJ metric ton springs and lift springs though. Fuel pump is different I think, or may take some dicking around to get an XJ one into the MJ tank, I'm not sure. For the rear glass, motion offroad has a used one in stock for 50 bucks.

If you can get it running, it should be fine, but you never know about other issues. All the drivetrain stuff is XJ swappable besides the driveshaft. If you have the know how and incentive, I'm sure it's doable.

Big rust spots to check are floor boards (patch panels are 60 bucks a side), rockers, door frame, unibody/rail under the cab, unibody/rail and frame rail between the cab and bed (they like to crack there). I'm not sure how rotten your rigs get out in Virgina though.

I don't know the most about MJ's but I was looking for one recently until my priorities changed. Comancheclub is a wealth of info on the things.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Cheap Bourbon posted:

1) the rattle-can "Farm Use" on the tailgate means "I don't want/care/need/can't get this safety inspected in VA

2) the use out of this vehicle would be to get it to semi-DD use/snow/ORV use, so I'm not too concerned that the semi-veiled father-son bonding would be in jeopardy

My concerns would be 1) engine -- Shouldn't be too terrible as long as I'm looking at an EFI 4.0L setup 2) suspension -- if it shares enough with the XJ platform I'll be happy....

If I were to treat it as a true AI thread, would the outlay be low enough for common replacement parts to get this thing semi-reliable (saayyy, less than 3k if the wrench is in my hands?)




Cripes, even still... if the drat thing turns over, I'm not totally convinced I'm hosed from what I see in the pics...

For your concerns:

1. You're looking at a Renix ECU'd 4.0L. I think 91 they switched to the crystler HO ECU stuff.

2. Suspension is all XJ up front and just different leaves out back. You could budget boost it easily.

I agree, as long as it'll turn over, you'll be able to make something out of it. I also want you to buy it so I can live vicariously through you.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

InitialDave posted:

Doesn't the USA have an equivalent to the UK Sankey?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jeep_trailer

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Picked up a 1999 XJ for a steal. It's got problems though.

No heat, rattles and shakes everywhere. Blown out speakers. So so interior.

Good news is, the motor is silent, no knocks or ticks. Drivetrain is solid. 4.0 231 4x4. 130k miles.

Tomorrow I'm grabbing the speakers, hatch struts, and rims/tires off our 95 plow rig, along with trying to flush the heater core to get heat back. If flushing it doesn't work, I get to replace it which is a pretty :suicide: job

Come spring I'm welding on new floor pans and rockers + POR15. Probably going to try and find a ford 8.8 with disks and LSD too....

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Got working heat in my 1999 xj again without replacing the heater core.

Ran radiator flush through it. Didn't do squat. Ran CLR through it. Didn't do squat.

Let CLR sit in it over night, then blasted it out with an air compressor. I now have working heat again. It's weak to medium, but good enough for the week. I'll let it sit with CLR again next weekend and flush it more, along with doing a full coolant system flush.

Also fixed my drivers side speaker. The door opening caused the wire to fray. Fixed it and put on some heavy duty loom. Swapped in my kenwood speakers out of our 95 XJ.

Also swapped the wheels/tires off our 95 onto my 99. Dunlop Radial Rover A/Ts which are infinitely better than the steal belted rear end tires that came on the thing.

Things left to fix/todo immediately:

  • CLR douche the heater core again. Coolant flush.
  • Figure out why my rear wiper washer works but my front doesn't.
  • Sounds like rear end on startup, almost as if one cylinder isn't firing. Will throw a tuneup kit at it.
  • Fix passenger door lock so it actually locks.
  • Try and epoxy the aftermarket rear pioneer speaker it came with to get it to not sound like rear end. Otherwise leave it out.
  • Figure out the loud wooshing sound above 60mph. Sounds like my windshield seal is bad.
  • Wire wheel and rattle can those stealies at my buddies place in his heated garage. Less rust brown, more black.

Once all that crap is dealt with, I'll be junkyard hunting for upgrades and fixing up lower priority stuff.

  • Install rear hitch and front tow hooks to use as recovery points.
  • Weld new metal in floor boards + rockers in the spring. POR15 it's brains out.
  • Fab up a rustys knock off front skid for armor + front strengthening.
  • Try and find some heated seats out of a Grand Cherokee to throw in.
  • Grand Cherokee beefy tie rods, maybe sways. Any other GC crap I can fit.
  • ZJ gas tank skid.
  • Misc trim pieces to replace my busted up ones.
  • Grab some OEM XJ fogs and wiring out of a junker. (I like more buttons to push)
  • Try and find an OEM overhead console.
  • Ford 8.8 (LSD, disks) eventually.
  • Fender trimming and two sets of TJ rear flares so I can steal my sisters tires while she's deployed.
  • Part time light doesn't come on when in 4wd. Will research quick fixes online, but probably going to ignore.
  • Swap exhausts with our 95 plow rig so I can pass sticker next year.
  • Junk yard rear springs to replace my flat ones.

It's a pile of poo poo but I love it.



I plan to keep it stock height with armor. It's just a DD/back up ride for when I break my subaru. Might be pulling out some stuck subarus or jeeps, maybe some mild offroad stuff.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

grnberet2b posted:

I went ahead and pulled the OPDA - the results are not encouraging. After only about 7K miles, it looks like this:



You can see wear remarkably similar to failed units on the gear teeth.

I'm not comfortable making changes to the shaft, but I'm going to go to the dealer the next time I get a chance, raise a bit of hell, then call Chrysler with a complaint, referencing my previous experience (thank god I kept that claim number). If no one goes for the "yup, we hosed up" route, I'll change the oil and hope for the best.

I always wanted a Jeep, now I'm starting to regret buying one :(

This worries me as well. My sister has an 06 Wrangler... When she parks it while she's deployed this summer, I'll be looking at her OPDA assembly.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Went to pick up my trailer hitch today. Big beefy uhaul for le cheap.

Then I asked the guy at the counter for Cherokee interior bits. He opened the back door and told me to go find them.



These two little guys had most of the parts I needed... and some extra goodies. None of the five or so Cherokees in the yard had rear hatches and their windows were down, so I used a glove box to shovel them out.



Rear trim piece as mine was broken to hell.



Speaker covers to replace my junky ones. Trim piece with fuse panel cover as mine didn't come with one. Visor with a vanity mirror that isn't cracked all over. Center console vent thingy as one of mine had a ton of broken fins. And my biggest find.... some speakers.



My jeep came with aftermarket pioneers in the rear, but one was blown out. I was going to try and fix it, but while I was at the yard I checked for speakers. The biggest thing I've learned about yard diving is to check for aftermarket parts. I pulled the speaker grills off of one cherokee and JACKPOT. These are fancy Alpine Type R's that are so fancy they have a crossover box. The price? Ten Dollars for both. SCORE.



Next time I go, I need to bring a sled to carry parts.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Got my uhaul hitch all repainted and my Custom4x4 front tow hooks + strap came in for my XJ today. I'm pumped to have recovery points on both ends of my rig finally. Pretty sad that my Subaru has better stock recovery points then my Jeep

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

ornery owl posted:

The PO of my Cherokee must have used a gallon of that Bar's Leak stuff in the cooling system before giving up and selling it to me. I fixed the leak [it was a freeze plug, lolol] and have flushed it three times now. It still gets gunked up though. After flushing it my heat works amazing, then slowly tapers off to kind of warm after a few drive cycles. I can hear the heater core gurgle some times.

Is there something better than the auto store "super flush" I can add to the water to help break down and flush that garbage out?

While mine didn't have stopleak poo poo in it, my coolant system on my 99xj was pretty neglected. For me my heatercore was clearly clogged. What I ended up doing was pulling the heater core hoses off of the block, tying them to my open hood and dumped CLR down both ends of those hose and let it sit overnight. Then in the morning blow it out with an air compressor or just blowing on the tubes with your mouth if you don't have access to an air compressor. I had to do this two weekends in a row along with flushing my whole coolant system to get my heat working at acceptable levels.

http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.htm

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

I got a v5 uhual class 3 hitch from a local scrapper for 50 bucks. I'm stealing the wiring setup off our plow Jeep, but I'm sure you could find something worthwhile for cheap.

It's a matter of how much time you have and how much BS you want to deal with.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

incredibull posted:

Good times.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0COrKLPcj8

drat that's gorgeous, I wish I could find some roads like that around here to drive on without getting beaten/stabbed to death by snowmobilers.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

commissargribb posted:

I hadn't driven any wranglers before I got mine and after about a month of driving it, I fell in love with it.

It's also amazing when you're trying to find a parking spot in Portland, Maine. I don't know how many times I've squeezed my YJ in where my wagon would never fit.

*high fives Maine buddy* Parking my Cherokee in down town is way easy compared to some of the other things I've drivin' around there.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Hey fellow Jeep goons.

Doing an oil change in my XJ this week. The first one since I bought it. Whats the favorite oil people like to run.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Frag Viper posted:

Turned my 94 XJ on, backed out the driveway and it stalled and wouldnt turn on again. All i can hear is the starter.

I was going to use the on off key method to pull a code, but it wont work.
ON, then OFF, then ON, then OFF, then ON.
The check engine light stays solid and nothing flashes. In the morning Ill check all the usual suspects (coil etc...). Any chance it could be the CPS because that's what im thinking. Im hoping its not the ECM.

Also, im broke and cant afford to take it to a shop, but I can afford a code reader. So I guess my real question is do i need OBD-II or OBD-I reader?

My guess is crank sensor. I just it on our 95 plow Jeep, so if ya gotta replace it, I know some tips.

I'm not sure readers work with OBD1, someone smarter than me might know.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Helped a friend move this morning with my Cherokee. God drat my rear leafs are hosed.

Time to upgrade and find something that'll clear some 30 M/T's from treadwright.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Somethings hosed on my 99 cherokee.

It's been losing coolant, I assumed it was leaking out the radiator somewhere. Turns out it might be the head gasket? My coolant also looks rusty as hell, and I flushed it a few months ago to get my heater core working.

I go to start it up today after letting it sit for a while. It wont start right away. Give it gas and it will start, sound like poo poo, and die if you let off the gas. That and smoke comes out from the manifold area. Oil pressure gauge looked good, volt gauge was low when it was running.

Took the key out and left it in the driveway. I've got my Subaru running so the Jeeps a backup vehicle, but when your backup vehicle is broken....

Where should I start? Pull the heads off? compression/leakdown? Pull the plugs and spin it? Light it on fire?

I'll be able to fix it since it isn't seized and can do my own work, I just don't know where to start.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

BoostCreep posted:

Heads? Does that mean it's a GC V8? If it is the 4.0 you should check to see what head casting you have. You have telltale symptoms of a cracked head which is common on the 99+ Cherokees. Look between the 3 and 4 cylinders right near the valve cover on the driver side for your casting number.

Whoop, it's a 99 XJ with the 4.0. I got a 99 because I thought it was 2000+ with the bad heads, but I'll check just to make sure.

ornery owl posted:

I think only 2000 Cherokee and up have the 0331 heads, but it couldn't hurt to check. 99 Grand Cherokees do have the 0331 though.

I'd start by draining both the oil and coolant in to pans and check if they're mixing. Rusty coolant can be normal to a point, but if it is oily/milky then yeah you have gasket problems.

If coolant is hitting your manifold area and steaming/smoking it could just be a leaking freeze plug. On my 99 Cherokee I had to replace and fix two of them so far and it wasn't because of freezing. They just started to rot away it seemed.

I just did an oil change. The oil came out fine looking. I'll definitely check the freeze plugs though. Our 95 blew out a plug.

So far I've got check the head casting code and inspect the freeze plugs. That's a start. I'll probably pull and inspect the plugs because hell why not, it's easy. Just need some free time. Thanks guys!

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pIotIGFN2oc

Welcome to everyone's favorite game show of.....

TEST

THAT

COMPRESSION!!!!!!

*crowd cheers*

I'm your host Slow is Fast.

Our contestant today is a 1999 Jeep Cherokee 4.0!!!!!

*crowd cheers*

Are you ready to play?

First cylinder:

150

Second cylinder:

110

Third cylinder:

90

Fourth cylinder:

105

Fifth cylinder:

130

Six cylinder:

150

TELL HIM WHAT HE'S WON!!!!!!!!!!



TL;DR your posting sucks and the joke wasn't funny.

150 110 90 105 130 150

Jeep sits and turns unless you give it throttle, then it will run around 2000rpms, blow white smoke out the exhaust and part of the manifold, and die as soon as you let off the gas. Oil looks okay, coolant looks like chocolate milk.

I didn't get a chance to put oil in the cylinders and do the check again because it started down-pouring on my head on cylinders 5 and 6.

Should I redo the check with oil to make sure it's not rings? Should I do a leak down?

My father and I both think it's the head gasket.

I have absolutely no problems tearing this thing apart and fixing it since it's a backup vehicle.

Parts list:
oil
coolant
gasket set
head bolts
pb blaster
beer

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

http://www.jeepjamboreeusa.com/trips.cfm

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Do it and post pictures. I have an unyielding love for those trucks. This board needs more Comanche content.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Rhyno posted:

I don't know man. I was just thinking I would sell all but the most basic of my tools and never wrench on a car myself again. But on the other hand, COMANCHE.

Well the way I look at it is, you've got a few courses of action.

1. Get the Comanche
2. Get the Comanche
3. Get the Comanche

All three of those also entail posting pictures and awesome Comanche chat.

Good luck!

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Iron Squid posted:

I'm going to buy a mid-90s Cherokee as a way to learn about cars and have a 4x4 vehicle for the weekends. Unfortunately I know very little about cars, especially the different things that can be done with Jeeps. Is there a primer on things like lifts and such?

Get this book and read it.

http://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Cherokee-Builders-1984-2001-Design/dp/1932494146

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Philip J Fry posted:

That's probably the best book you can get for XJ's as it was written by an enthusiast and not some pro mechanic or engineer. They're also dead-simple to work on, random electrical gremlins aside.

It's a great book. I've grown up in a J20 and a CJ5, and have a soft spot in my heart for the Cherokees.

Electrical gremlins and neglected cooling systems :)

Iron Squid posted:

Ordered. Thanks! :)

Glad I could help. It's a good book, I have it on my desk and even though I knew mostly everything in it, I still don't regret buying it.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

EightBit posted:

The knob for the fan speed control is fried in mine. Wasn't much of a problem until last week when typical south texas summer temperatures showed up out of nowhere. Only got the third notch working.

My cherokee stereo is all kinds of messed up, the volume will drop to %50 randomly and stay there. My parents grand cherokee doesn't work on the third notch but everything else is fine.

:iiam:

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Iron Squid posted:

Are there any websites that have drawings or clearly labelled photos of the inner workings of Jeeps?

Here you go: http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech.html

Go nuts reading until your eyes bleed. There certainly is enough there to do it.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006


Cyl 1-3


Cyl 4-6











Welp. I bought the worlds most abused Jeep.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

In reference to the pics above, after talking it over with my father and looking at all the parts and stuff, We've come to a few conclusion.

The fluid in the cylinders is my excessive PB Blaster that I was spraying everywhere to ensure no bolts got stuck. I wasn't sure if it was coolant or not.

On the drivers side of the head (right in the pictures), the coolant passages are clogged solid. The troubling thing is, the headgasket is solid. I haven't done my full fledged research on everything, but that may or may not be an issue.

I'm trying to understand what failed and why. The headgasket looked okay and there seemed to be little cross contamination.

There was that one valve area at picture #5 that looks pretty burnt up.

Also, the pistons in the block have a bit of play. You can wiggle them in the block to an estimated 1mm or so. That and the block has no crosshatching anymore.

Trying to figure out what my best course of action is at this point. Have the heads checked by the machine shop and rebuild it with new gaskets, do the piston rings and bearings while I've got things apart, or go nuts and get some 258 parts to make a poor mans stroker. A bit too early to be starting a project, I should still be figuring out what's good and what isn't at this point, then go from there.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

The two E12 torx bits on the top of the 4.0 bell-housing can suck my dick.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Sponge! posted:

How'd you manage to break an I6?

The head cracked. There was play in the piston/rings and the walls had no more hone. So short block is getting rebuilt and I'm buying a reman cylinder head. I could have slapped it all back together with a new head and gaskets and called it a day, but I have a crazy obsession with "doing things right" after watching my father half rear end his way through projects over the years.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

EightBit posted:

I got lucky I guess. The bottom end on mine was still tight when my head cracked. Good luck locating a head though, lots of 2000-2001 heads are junk and there's not many of later years left around it seems. No, you can't use older heads either :(

Mines a 1999 with 0630 heads, not the 0331's. The thing is, no one can give me an exact consensus on what year/casing number head I should look for. I want to just order a cylinder head and have it be the right one rather than gently caress around in junkyards then bringing junkyard heads to be checked for cracks at the machine shop.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

EightBit posted:

I think I got this link from this thread, but I'll repost it in hopes that it is useful, again.

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2182/not_those_jeeps_again_the_facts_about_40l_cylinder_heads.aspx

Seems like from that article any 0630 will work. Some of the other messageboard poo poo I read mentioned some of them have different intake/exhaust sizes on the same casting, so I wasn't sure. I'll probably just call Odessa and ask them.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

Seems like I wasn't the only one working on Jeeps this weekend.







Shwing


Just have to pull the cam tomorrow, then it's off to a machine shop. Hopefully it doesn't need much work so I can slam this pile back together for cheap.

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Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

commissargribb posted:

so much sparkle...

Blurry camera phones will do that :|

Good news is the crank looks good. Rod bearings are slightly scored. If I have to bore it 30 over and get new pistons my bank account will loving cry. Most things are piddly poo poo cheap on rock auto, but it all adds up...

Just need this turd slapped together so I can go break my subaru racing and still get to work... Or I should just sell all my stupid car poo poo and move to the city.

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