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ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

InterceptorV8 posted:

What's the best way to mount a CB whip on a Cherokee? And then I have to find a place to put the CB. I'd like to remove the center console as well.... I hate how the seatbelt is mounted way down in there, I like really easy access to the release button.

I don't know what features you are looking for, but the Cobra 75 is nice and easy to hide behind the dash, with all the controls built into the mic.

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ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Boomerjinks posted:

Newer Jeep wheels look pretty amazing on that.

Also, I had a pretty :black101: weekend. Drove to Granby to visit the folks for an early Father's Day, they went to a charity thing in another town on Saturday morning, leaving me to tool around the mountain. I promptly get roadblocked by a melt-off marsh that is too slick to power out of. While turning around I get my front end hooked on a goddamn log. I'm by myself, I left my winch solenoid at home, and the folks are gone so the chance of rescue by tractor is nil, so I hike down the mountain in my tevas in search of the household chainsaw. I can't find the chainsaw in the house, garage, wood shed, or machine shed.

However, I do find an axe and a comealong. Hike back to the Jeep, chop up that loving log listening to Andrew WK, and flatten some saplings on my way out of the marsh. I'm kind of glad I was by myself, as my friends probably would not have found the whole ordeal as fun as I did.

Wait, why did you remove the winch solenoid? Just mount it under the hood if you don't like the way it looks.

I love the way that pic turned out though.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

In an LJ, the big boy mounts should allow the seat to be moved back farther than in a TJ, as the seat will hit the wheel arches before it reaches its end of travel in the TJ. (I haven't confirmed this, just heard it somewhere, so YMMV) A '93 Wrangler (YJ) is leaf sprung versus the TJ's coils. The TJ will ride better, especially with a soft suspension like from OME. However, its still a Jeep, so don't set your expectations all that high. The longer wheelbase of the LJ does make a difference as well, making the vehicle feel slightly less like it is actively trying to kill you. This is especially true once you start lifting and modifying the jeep. Honestly, you should really take a long test drive before you consider another Wrangler. You did sell your last one for a reason. Or perhaps consider a newer 07+ JK. It is another step more refined than the TJ, although arguably, less of what makes a jeep a "jeep".

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

BoostCreep posted:

I've been chasing down a short in my '01 XJ for two weeks and it's starting to drive me crazy. I'm really not great at electrical gremlins and would love some advice from people who have more experience than me.

The problem is the passenger side headlight low beam went out (high beam works fine). I replaced both headlights, which of course didn't fix the issue at all. I opened the fuse box in the passenger kick panel to find the #5 fuse blown, which is for the passenger headlight. I replaced the fuse and the headlight worked again for a little while before the fuse blew again. After doing a ton of research and reading on XJ forums, it's pretty obvious that it is a short in the system somewhere. Most forum posts say to check the trailer hitch wiring, all the bulbs, headlight switch, headlight plugs, and everything short of ripping the entire chassis apart just to fix one little worn wire, which I've pretty much already done.

So does anyone have any advice? I bought a multimeter, but for some reason (probably out of simple frustration with the issue), I can't seem to get a usable reading from the meter. I'm posting to see if anyone happens to know a trick or had this happen before and what would be a good place to look for a grounded wire.

Best bet is the multifunction switch. If the XJ was wired anything like the TJ, Chrysler decided "Who needs relays?", ran the headlight power directly through the switch using materials barely meeting minimum spec, and acted surprised when the whole poo poo melted. Some times the contacts inside the switch also like to become corroded - which can be resolved with a disassembly and cleaning rather than a complete switch replacement as in the melted mess scenario.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

TheManWithNoName posted:

Kind of a dumb question, but what size gas tank is on the 2001 Cherokee? A friend says 20 but I could only fill up 15.8 gallons when the line was on E. Getting conflicting answers online too.

I was figuring out my mileage and got 235 miles on 15.8 gallons. Not too bad I guess, all city driving.

2005 TJ and with the the needle on E and the low fuel light on, it takes ~15 1/2 gallons to fill the 20 gallon tank. I don't think Jeep has ever made an accurate gas gauge.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

dongsweep posted:

After many years of wanting a wrangler I finally pulled the trigger. I bought a dark green 2011 base model and the only options on it were the AC and the +5 gallon tank. I cannot wait to take this thing out in the summer and take the top down and doors off. I had a question regarding that, what kind of side mirrors can I get to put on when I take the doors off? The mirrors are attached to the door and I know I need at least two rear-view mirrors to drive legally so I need to have something mounted on the door. Can I use the one on the door?

I use a little baby mirror mounted to the side of the dash. A few companies make mirror relocation brackets, though I'm not particularly fond of how they look.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Scrubed posted:

What was the type code on the long TJ?

Is it still just a TJ?

LJ.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Bucephalus posted:

The "multi" in "multimeter" refers to the ability to measure resistance (ohms), AC and DC voltage, current, and frequency (Hz). So, yes.


I thought that was unofficial?

Pretty sure it is, however, it is pretty well adopted, with parts specific to the model typically using the designation.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

commissargribb posted:

Now your Cherokee can breathe long after you no longer can!

Now he needs a scuba tank for tire inflation and river lake crossings.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

commissargribb posted:

I meme'd my YJ



This photo taken in Scarborough (upscale suburbia), Maine (backwater tourism state) by the way...

VVVVVVV
I just shake my head every time I see a jeep with its top and doors on. It's 80° and sunny, why buy one if you refuse to even roll down the windows? Topless from April to September is the only way to do it. :c00lbert:

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

I don't? A cover runs about $100 and takes less than a minute to put on / take off. That's assuming you don't have a soft top. Most people you see tend to, at least around here.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

I haven't seen a YJ soft top up close in a while, the zippers for the windows, right? I can't imagine snaps working nearly as well as zippers. Plenty of people swear by graphite for lubing zippers. Perhaps give that a try instead?

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Iron Squid posted:

Are there any websites that have drawings or clearly labelled photos of the inner workings of Jeeps?
Service manual is the way to go, here. A little light on pictures, but it'll show you how to do just about any repair you need to do.

commissargribb posted:

my zippers broke because they are some kind of cheap aluminum and have plastic teeth. They lose teeth all the time and one of them fell apart. I can't imagine snaps failing nearly as bad as that.

also, I'm thinking about adding snaps to hold the windows down to the body (the weatherstrip/channel thing doesnt work that great under wind) and to replace the worn velcro bits around the door.
Is there enough material overlap to use snaps? I'd think the wind would blow in between the snaps along with water, as well. Though, as I said, I don't have a YJ top to look at. Quality zippers and track (?) are pretty cheap. Maybe thats a good route to go? Though I'd imagine you'd need a pretty heavy duty sewing machine. Post some pictures if you try the snaps though. I'd like to see how it works out.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Boomerjinks posted:

1) The top I have for the jeep is the factory top, not a supertop, which is MUCH more frustrating to put up. The supertop isn't accurate to the jeep, so I can't have it!
2) I just want something to throw on in less than 5 minutes when I park for work or when the jeep is in the garage so it doesn't get filled with saw dust.

I had a supertop originally, and it was awesome. But it had to go.

SPARED NO EXPENSE. :smithicide:

I'm assuming that the light bar and windshield frame have a gap between them the majority of the way down. A besttop all weather trail cover will fit if you can pass it between the light bar and windshield down to the height of the wiper blades. Goes on/off in less than a minute. Order from Amazon if you can, they're very accommodating with returns.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Tossed_Salad_Man posted:

Flopped the jeep on the drivers side at uwharrie. Lesson learned.



I'm surprised you still have a mirror. Were you doorless at the time? Will the window still seal?

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007


An older one, but it still looks the same. Topless since April.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Personally, I cover it. Who wants a wet rear end in the morning? In a TJ, you can generally get away with pulling the carpet + drain plugs and covering the steering wheel. In a JK, I would expect electrical issues in short order if you left it topless in the rain more than once or twice.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Haha, that's great. Now I need to get a hammock to keep in the back of the jeep.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

I think most people, myself included, were really hoping for a real jeep pickup, not a conversion kit.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

commissargribb posted:

In fairness, I used the old harness from the YJ to complete the wiring so I had something to start from. The only thing I can say is trace one component from pos to neg and you may find the reason that all of them are not working.


You mean like a modernized version of the Willys pickup or like a new scrambler with a hard cab?

I don't mind the way Jeep did it at all with the package, but it shouldn't be a kit, it should have been a factory configuration. As it stands, installing the kit is pretty involved. Unlike the TJ unlimited, the JK requires eliminating the rear doors. I suppose you could run half doors and call it good, but it is hardly "factory". Doesn't the JK have that under floor storage compartment in the rear as well? That would have to be eliminated, or I would imagine rust would do it for you. I think the kits look awesome and I'd love to do one some day, but it is hardly a proper solution from Jeep.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Easily. A body lift isn't all that involved. Might want to hit any bolts you will be removing with a healthy amount of PB blaster a few days before you start. Presoaking is the key to jeep maintenance. :)

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Tossed_Salad_Man posted:

Got pics sent to me from the shop doing my cage in my LJ. I became immediately erect. The sound bar will be modified to go where the overhead hoop is. There will also be a harness bar behind the seats, there are sliders to the frame and the cage is through the dash, through the floor to the sliders.

You're running a halfcab, right? How easy is it to remove versus a conventional hardtop?

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Boomerjinks posted:

Yup.

Jeep is going to be part of a Jurassic Park game display in the convention itself. I'll be flying out Thursday and my buds will be driving up the Ecto on Friday.

Wound up going with the bestop trail cover? How do you like it?

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Boomerjinks posted:

Haven't really used it. I bought it, and then it stopped raining in Colorado. I need to come up with a solution to it not going all the way over the windshield due to the lightbar. Also, for it to fit, the whip antenna has to be disconnected from the windshield, which is a pain.

tl;dr: My modifications hinder it's usefulness.

Might have to break out the sewing needle. Make a slice in the cover for the light bar brackets and maybe add a pulltab to clip the antenna whip to. Or move the whip's attachment point to the lightbar?

I have the issue of it bunching up around the mirrors when I run with doors. :(

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Biggest problem is undersized wiring. Either pick up a premade harness, or grab some relays and make your own. From the factory, the headlight wiring is both too thin and routed directly through the control stalk. Pick up some decent bulbs to go with it and you're good to go. Do you still have sealed beams or did you already convert it to H4 housings? A set of Hella bulbs & housings is probably the best way to go. A lot of people like the IPF fatboys as well. HIDs are expensive to do correctly. A piece of soda can and some MAD-TYTE $50 HIDs is not something even remotely resembling correct.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Probably for the underhood light. IIRC, the lead for that light comes off the harness in the same place on my TJ.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

I'm pretty sure hes thinking a little larger. Tanks from 5lbs and up filled with co2 are a great way to take care of tire fills and even run air tools on the trail. co2 lets you get a lot more out of a tank compared to an equivalent tank filled with air. That plus, few places will fill scuba tanks for you unless you hold a scuba certification. See companies like powertank for ready to run kits, though a cheap bottle from a beverage company and a 150psi reg is a much cheaper way to go about it.

ThinkFear fucked around with this message at 17:59 on Aug 25, 2011

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

I think you get something like a minute and a half per lb of co2 with an 1/2" impact. It certainly isn't infinite, but its enough to make trail repairs.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

How do JKs tend to handle a soaking? I've always covered the steering wheel and blinker stalk in the tj if I couldn't avoid a shower, and it's been fine.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Yeah, that battery is probably shot. You can check the battery terminals and the alternator to be thorough. Go to an autozone or some such and let them test the battery and alternator. Unfortunately, Optima's quality isn't what it used to be. You have a 36 month replacement warranty but nothing after that. Go see if you can dig up a receipt with a date. Might just still be covered.


EDITT: Got the warranty info wrong

ThinkFear fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Aug 13, 2013

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Ox's drive away lock is a pretty cool solution for a quick trail fix.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Kastein, could you give me a quick run-down on Comanches? I'm starting to keep an eye out for one. Best years (91-92?), potential trouble spots, best rear axle swaps, reasonable pricing, that kind of thing. I have a TJ now and I've done some wrenching on XJs, so I'm not going in totally blind. I'm in the north east as well (NJ).

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007


Awesome, thanks a lot. That '92 mj was painful. What was the story exactly? I'd love to see pics pre-fire.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

piss boner posted:

Installed the 7" flares last night. Really hoping this will keep the 33's from flinging just as much mud inside as outside.


And if anyone is curious about the quality and service of Rusty's Offroad, the winch plate I received is gorgeous and feels like 25#. 2 days after I ordered they called to let me know that my rear bumper would be a few days behind the front. I found mixed reviews prior to my purchase but my experience has been positive so far.

I have some skids from Rusty's and have no complaints. Rusty himself took care of me when I was dumb and ordered the wrong engine skid. I think it is solid kit for the price. Not the best out there, but a solid deal for something you aren't beating the poo poo out of.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

IOwnCalculus posted:

The only thing I have any concern about is the invoice doesn't clarify what oil was used in the transfer case, just 'gear oil' from an independent. More annoyingly, the last time the dealer did it (about 60k before), the receipt says they used ATF+4 :argh:


I really wouldn't worry about the ATF. NV247s used to run ATF4 but changed to a special oil to quiet it down a bit. Quite a few tcases spec ATF instead of gear oil, the np231 in TJs included.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Quite A Tool posted:

I don't even know what the PO did with mine. I got a text like 3 days after I bought it and they were like "oh btw if it doesn't start press the red button next to the hood release" and sure as poo poo a few days later it didn't start and there's a little button wired in down near the release. Pressed it and it started right up and no issues since then.

Crappy aftermarket alarm, nss bypass? I'd have to find out.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

Godholio posted:

Scrambler.

Scrambler is obviously what they are going to call the next-gen pickup variant. :getin:

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

mattfl posted:

Hell he could even use plastidip and when he gets tired of it just peal it off and any overspray will just come right off too. No need to waste the $40 in vinyl for that.

This is what I'd do. When you get tired of it / want to sell it, just peel it off, and it's way cheaper than vinyl.

ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

SouthsideSaint posted:

So on Monday my wife is trading her escape for her mothers 2000 WJ. First thing it needs is new tires because the ones on it are dryrotted and worn funny. While its getting new tires im going to have a chance to look at the suspension. Could someone recommend a decent set of tires in this size? Money is not the issue its there are so many mediocre brands for the size it has. 245/70r16

Firestone Destination ATs or Goodyear Wrangler Adventures would get my vote.

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ThinkFear
Sep 15, 2007

That was an interesting read. Can't say I'm particularly surprised. Industrial controls are no better. Security through obscurity is the name of the game. Add an internet connection and poo poo like this is only a matter of time.

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