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Yesterday I went to a parts lot to grab myself a new seat for my XJ, and as soon as I pulled up to the lot, my engine starts making a terrible clanging sound. Not good, I'm fifty miles from home out here. I popped my hood and found that my idler pulley decided to poo poo itself. The parts lot didn't have any 4.0s to harvest from, so they had car quest bring me a new pulley and belt, I didn't want to take a chance with the old one. So after replacing those, I didn't have money for the seat. New Part Day doesn't always end up the way you plan, I guess.
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May 17, 2012 09:26
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ornery owl posted:Looking for some opinions. Sounds like a great deal to me. I had mine done by safelite and it cost me almost 200.
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May 17, 2012 22:28
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I can't say about the water pump, but you should be able to take care of rotors yourself with a pair of jack stands and a couple tools. That said, I've heard many people here on AI claim that warped rotors are a myth. Did he say they were worn, or bent? If he said bent, is this mechanic a trustworthy fellow? Have you gotten a second opinion yet? EDIT: I heard that water pump is awesome, let us know how install goes if you do it on your own.
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May 31, 2012 16:45
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Hey kastein, I've got a 92 xj 4.0 that drives warm, just like all the others. I put a new radiator in myself early this year, but that didn't solve the problem. Last months, I had a local shop do a coolant flush. They're saying that the flush isn't going to solve the problem. Apparently there is a buildup of nastyness inside the coolant-running part of the engine that is preventing heat from transferring the way it should. They say taht the best way to fix this is a teardown of the engine. I'm inclined to believe them, you should have seen the crap that was in the radiator. Anyway, considering the engine is just past to 222k mark, I'm thinking an overhaul is a good idea anyway. What do you think something like that would cost?
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Aug 24, 2012 14:19
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Stroking, as well as boring, is a way to increase an engine's displacement to give higher power. Where boring is making the cylinders wider, stroking makes the cylinders travel farther. Both give you more room to cram more gas and air in, which means bigger explosions, and more power from the engine. Stroking is done, I believe, by changing out the crankshaft and/or piston rod to give it farther travel on the down stroke. If I'm wrong, someone please clean me up. edit: Oh bugger
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Aug 24, 2012 17:13
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commissargribb posted:
Its... beautiful! The jys around here have no xj's to pick from. God, i'd give anything to run through those for a while. Where is this? What State?
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Aug 25, 2012 07:13
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kastein posted:poo poo, I got way behind on this thread. holy poo poo, 1500 for a shop to do an overhaul! drat I hate being poor. Thanks for the info on the engine flush though, I've been thinking of putting new headers and doing a manifold swap anyway, this might be the chance to do it.
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Aug 28, 2012 01:40
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"Help me diagnose my problem" bullshit post of the hour! 92 XJ 4.0 2wd, with intermittent no-start. Turn the key, and nothing happens. No sound, no engine turning, absolutely nothing. I just got back from having my battery and alternator tested, and Auto Zone Dude said they all check out. He also said my starter sounds good. So, what do you think? I'm placing bets on the neutral safety switch, as my reverse lights don't pop on automatically (and honestly, I never paid attention to whether they should or not) but AZD thought ignition control module. Bonus points: ticking sound coming from distributor, obviously not good. Involved, or a separate problem?
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Dec 26, 2013 23:50
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Checked the terminals and cables, they looked okay. I'll check again tomorrow for bulges and wear. The ignition switch is my second guess, is there any way to diagnose that?
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Dec 27, 2013 00:37
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Yo kastein, or any other Cherokee drivers out there, I can use a quick favor. A few pages back, I was trying to diagnose an intermittent no-start at key turn. My guess was NSS, and after that, the ignition switch. The old woman must have heard me complaining, because I have only been able to replicate the problem once since I mentioned it. Anyway, when I usually have to shift into reverse and move about 10 or 20 feet to get the reverse lights to come on. I could use some input from another driver to see if this behavior is normal. So tell me guys, do you have to roll to get your reverse lights to turn on, or do they come on automatically? And thanks.
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Jan 6, 2014 08:13
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mod sassinator posted:Have not seen that behavior with my 99 XJ. When I shift into R in my automatic, the lights immediately come on. Audiologic posted:I think that would point to the NSS if you're lights are having issues coming on in reverse. Take it off and clean it, just hope you don't break it off like I did, not a cheap part. kastein posted:Yeah if your reverse lights take that long to come on, you have an NSS issue, unless the transmission also sometimes doesn't like shifting manually, in which case your linkage may be misadjusted and putting the shift arm on the edge of a detent instead of the center or something. Psycho Donut Killer posted:If you have the AW4 just Clean out your Neutral Safety Switch. My Cherokee had intermittent no start in park when I bought it, but would start in neutral. Cleaned it and not problems starting since. Probably needs done again since my reverse lights haven't worked for three years, but they are part of the the Texas safety inspection. That's what I thought, thanks you all for the info. When things get warm, I'll start working on the nss. North Carolina here, and the in-town thermometer reads -0, I think we broke it.
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Jan 7, 2014 05:54
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OneOverZero posted:Can I go ahead and post my "free to a good home, double-free if you can pick it up" list before I move? Everything is XJ/MJ. If it's an MJ part, it's probably shown in the first post of my neglected thread about my neglected Comanche. It's all in Asheville, NC. Hey there, you still have these side mirrors? The mirrors on my 92 xj just arent what they used to be/are supposed to be, and I could really use some replacements. I'm near asheville myself, and could probably meat you somewhere this week. JukeboxHerostratus fucked around with this message at 07:07 on Nov 17, 2014 |
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Mar 19, 2014 00:51
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I need a constant power source for a second power outlet for my dash cam and junk. Currently, I have it powered off of an ACC port in the fuse panel and that works great when the car is on, but I want the option for constant power, too. I've got switches for selecting which power source, and a fail safe switch for a constant to keep it from being turned on accidentally. Anyway, should I tap into the constant for the radio, or is there a port in the fuse panel that I didn't see? Oh, and what kind of inline fuses should I throw into the mix? It's only going to be powering my dash cam, which I think they said uses 1A, should I use that?
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Mar 29, 2014 20:13
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It appears we found step 1 on your "things I need to fix" list. I'm jealous, always wanted an MJ. But in less than 2 weeks I'm going to be picking up a J10 that I think has been used as a donor. God help me.
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Oct 2, 2014 03:07
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I bought an 84 J10 today. It already split open my knuckles and jumped off the jack stands. It wants to kill me, I know it. Oh god what have I done.  Antlers are already gone. The bed is rusted to shreds. No front bumper, no rear bumper. PO used permtex as a valve cover gasket, and left the remainder of the white paint rattle can under the seat.
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Oct 11, 2014 02:13
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I wish I could do a build thread, but I don't have the money and time do to things at an entertaining pace. But here are some pictures! Parked in driveway. Note the oil stain on the gravel. Rear of the truck is shifted over about a foot since the Tower of Babel incident.  Rust is to be expected. This also shows just how bad the paint really is.  Some junk left by PO, but the jack stand boxes are mine.  Cockpit shot. Check out the glove box door, PO installed those free of charge.  Thanks, PO!  Obligitory Engine bay shot. You can't see that the valve cover is sealed with a lot of permtex and leaks like a stuck pig. Air filter is about as big as a tuna can, and black from exhaust. Either a leak at the header gasket or form the exhaust system ending at the downpipe.  And take a look at those springs! Pretty sure that's not what a throttle spring is supposed to look like.  Nasty stuff left where front bumper should be.  Lopped off bracket where rear bumper should be.  License plate screw holes in the priceless tailgate.  Rattlecan overspray on tail lights.  Rattlecan overspray on the windows.  Rattlecan left as evidence, possibly to taunt me.  Stickers that are going to have to go.  Love hurts.  50% lug nut attendance  I've named her Bambi  So if any of you guys frequent pick-n-pulls, keep your eyes open for 80s era Wagoneers, Grand Wagoneers, and j-series trucks. I'm looking for a front bumper, rear bumper, and a host of other things.
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Oct 11, 2014 21:05
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kastein posted:Have you seen my thread? Current progress is best described as "glacial" Thanks for the heads up on the overspray, I'd rather clean it than throw money at the problem. And I appreciate the open eyes. I wish I had your experience, though. A 4.0 swap is part of the plan but right now I have to get it safe. I've got a gas leak to tend to, and today I discovered a brake leak and this... 
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Oct 11, 2014 23:52
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Alright men, I need some input. My daily driver, a 92 XJ 4.0 is overheating very rapidly. I went from 150-red line in less than half a mile. I'm betting water pump. Any other ideas?
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Oct 14, 2014 02:20
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I can't do much of anything right now, Jeep's in a parking lot about 20 miles away. Here's what went down. Temperature reached high, so I parked it. After it cooled, I drove around the parking lot and I reached max temp again. Total drive here was maybe 3/4 of a mile. I did a 3/4 mile shuffle to the gas station where she currently sits. I drained the system and filled it with water to limp it home, and i watched the temp gauge rise while sitting in the parking lot. I was revving it to hurry the process along and it started overheating. I couldn't get her to burp. The water expanded like it was hot, but it was like the water wasn't getting circulated. This is what makes me think it's the pump. The fan clutch isn't very old, and the pump also sounded a little rickety to me. But confirmation bias is a bad mother and I don't like being tricked. I'll drop a new t-stat tomorrow, and I'll see if the parts shop has an ir thermometer I can borrow. Where should I point it and what should I expect to see?
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Oct 14, 2014 02:50
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I'll swap the t-stat and pull the pump then. If the impellers are still there, I'll give it another try. I once saw a pump fail where the impellers completely disappeared, and this would be the third time I've had a pump fail on me. But I honestly blame myself. My coolant hasn't looked like coolant since the last century. I'm sure I've got a shot head gasket. This wouldn't have me so mad if that j truck was safe to drive, now I've got 2 immobile vehicles. Maybe I will do that build thread, this string of luck deserves an anthology.
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Oct 14, 2014 03:02
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What's a torque wrench? I kid, I kid. I don't have a lot of experience but I'm growing less afraid with a wrench. But with school going along, I don't want to spend too much time without a vehicle. I'd like to get my j10 mobile before I start a project like that on my own. I've driven this thing for over a year without a temp sender, and the whole time the coolant looked like red clay mud. That's what got me worried, it goes in green and comes out red? Something surely ain't write. I know these can take abuse, and I abused the piss out of this one. 13 pounds of thermite? Got a video?
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Oct 14, 2014 03:18
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Cat Hatter posted:Next time it overheats, check the upper radiator hose. If its hot, then it (probably) isn't the thermostat or water pump. You might have a hell of a clog (or tstat or pump problem) but considering how fast its overheating I'd say either thermostat (verifiable by checking the radiator hose) or air pocket. Last time I did my cooling system it took days and over a half dozen heating cycles to fully burp all the air out. The last goon with your problem didn't believe me and spent a bunch of money he didn't really have to. The t-stat cost me 5, and the pump cost me about 20. If my old pump isn't shredded, I'm going to continue using it and return the new one. But I'm going to make an appointment for a coolant flush as soon as I get her home. I'm so sick of this poo poo. The Royal Nonesuch posted:I trust you guys were familiar with this old bit by HST when you did that Dammit Hunter, I could have used the bumper on that Waggy.
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Oct 14, 2014 04:59
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I was right, the water pump was shot.   And it was raining all morning.
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Oct 14, 2014 19:42
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I've still got it in a box and I'm thinking of creative ways to destroy it, punish it for making the mistake of failing on me. Jeep's running great now, and the heater is the best it's ever been. Now I've got to schedule that coolant system flush.
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Oct 14, 2014 21:17
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I've tried pulling the block train plug but it just won't move. I've got the bit for it and it simply won't move. I'll try my breaker bar on it but I'd have to get an adapter, but I don't think it's gonna happen. What do you know about a CLR treatment? I'm sure I can use it. Just imagine the nastiest coolant system you've ever seen, and I promise mine is worse. The head gasket worry of mine didn't come from this overheating episode, it's always been ugly. And I know about how tough heater cores can be, I don't look forward to it but I know it might be an eventuality. I'll spend the extra cash and get a brass one if I must, but I'm delaying it for as long as possible. EDIT: And thanks for the help, guys. I appreciate it. JukeboxHerostratus fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Oct 14, 2014 |
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Oct 14, 2014 21:39
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I told you it was overheating  But for real, the valve cover gasket was leaking. Gasket was replaced a while ago, but I never got to degrease it.
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Oct 15, 2014 01:36
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The rear passenger-side valve cover bolt on my J10 looked a little off. I tried to tighten it down, and it spun but wouldn't sink. So I tried to remove it, but it spun and wouldn't rise. Something fishy was afoot, so I grabbed the bolthead with a pair of pliers and pulled it out. The bolt is the wrong size, and the previous owner knew that. So he wrapped it in tape to make a snugger fit to limp through a sale.  I can't wait to drop a 4.0 in here. JukeboxHerostratus fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Oct 20, 2014 |
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Oct 20, 2014 21:15
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kastein posted:Could be because he was an inbred retard who thought deer horns should be haphazardly tied to the front of a truck and that masking tape was unimportant when painting a vehicle, too. Never attribute to malice what is explained perfectly by stupidity You said it. The bolt I pulled was a 5/16 x 24 or something, and it didn't want to work. My brother in Alaska has an 84 Eagle he's playing with, and it's also running a 4.2. I've asked him to pop out the bolt in question and size it up for me. It's possible the threads are stripped, so I might end up doing a helicoil.
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Oct 21, 2014 02:32
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kastein posted:Just a valvecover bolt right? They are all the same, pull another one and get a duplicate of it. They are all screwed into a cast iron head so I will be absolutely shocked if the hole is stripped out. I've read some that this rear bolt is a different size on 4.2s (1/4 x 20 i think, ill try next), but I'll try a comparison tomorrow. Anyway, I'm basing the bolt size info on the conversation had here: http://www.jeep-cj.com/forums/f2/valve-cover-bolt-size-i6-258-one-thats-different-16195/ tinman posted:Just went out and pulled that one out of my old engine and it's smaller. I'm thinking 1/4" 20? I put a nut on it that I just got from the local hardware store that they sell in bulk, course thread, and it fit just fine. I think the rest of the valve cover bolts are 5/16". Don't forget, Jeep was owned by AMC during this era. There will be plenty of oddball things to discover.
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Oct 21, 2014 05:48
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You should write a book, Kastein. And I checked out that valve cover bolt, the one I pulled was the same size as the others. I took a peek and I think I'm going to have to helicoil it after all. I didn't see stripped threads; I saw no threads and what might be a hint of blue rtv. Anyway, I need a cat converter in my state. Would a carbed engine absolutely destroy a cat from a fuel-injected xj? I know I can get one easy enough, and advance auto's web site shows the same part for an xj and j10. Any input, guys?
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Oct 23, 2014 02:52
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Philip J Fry posted:Usually I just tighten it until I can only twist the belt in the middle of its longest section 90 degrees with my fingers. Any more than that, it's too loose; any less and it's too tight. Last I did that tight I sheared off a pulley (in front of a junk yard, didn't get to pull the part I wanted that day  ). I give it just a little over 90 degrees.oh yeah, i need to tighten mine up today, thank you for reminding me.
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Oct 30, 2014 18:47
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Take pictures of the dead wp, I love failed parts gore. And if you order through advance auto online and pickup in store, you can use coupon code trt30 to get 30% off.
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Nov 1, 2014 15:52
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Did you know the voltage regulator in XJs are soldered to the computer? "NOT a serviceable item." So here's the kit I've ordered to fix it, an external voltage regulator with a module to quell the CEL. Total w/ shipping tapped in at about 70. http://store.alternatorparts.com/hd-external-voltage-regulator-conversion-field-replacement-kit.aspx Now it's too late to look for other ideas, but have any of you had a problem with your voltage regulator? What would you have recommended? And I think the torque converter on my truck has died. Just when I installed a new exhaust system, too. drat shame. Oh well, Jeep ownership! 
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Dec 1, 2014 00:44
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Oh crap. Voltage drops to what looks like 12, engine tester at parts store read voltage at 11.83, and the same tester reports that voltage regulator has failed. CEL was intermittent for the past couple weeks, only this morning did I catch it in the act. Everything is acting as it usually does. CEL was throwing code 41. "Alternator field control circuit open or shorted."
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Dec 1, 2014 02:40
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Yeah, if you could I'd appreciate it. No rush, I've got another car to get me too and from school. Now I played with the blocky field connectors before (not on mine), so I know where they're at. Tomorrow I'll call those guys and see if I can cancel the order. If I can't, then just forget it. I'll try to think about it too much, or consider it preparation for a stronger alt in the future. I should have just asked first. This is just embarassing.
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Dec 1, 2014 03:10
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I thought they were looking for a way to rope consumers into buying a $300 part instead of a $30 part. Oh, here's a symptom for you: My dash cam's audio for the past few weeks has had rhythmic chipping/clicking sounds. That could be caused by power flucuations, couldn't it? Well, we'll see. At worst, I'll be prepared for a stronger alt for an all-electric fan conversion.
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Dec 1, 2014 03:27
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I was looking at that part today, I thought that's where I was going. It happens to be directly underneath the spillout for my coolant reservoir, so I think I've found the problem. Thank you
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Dec 2, 2014 04:01
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Field terminal post on my alternator just FELL THE gently caress OFF!
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Dec 4, 2014 18:26
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I found a match on a junkyard ZJ and initial testing is good, but I'll have to drive around a while before I call it a success. The old post twisted off when I was reconnecting everything. I don't think I overtorqued it, but i was very careful this time around. In the mean time, I'll take apart the old alt and see what I can't do with it. You've saved me again, kastein. I owe you a beer.
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Dec 4, 2014 22:03
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 19:37 |
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Sandbagger SA posted:
Yikes! All of a sudden my alternator problem doesn't seem so bad. Is it all in one piece? How broken is it? You had to fix it in the snow, didn't you? Why do the worst catastrophes wait for the worst weather?
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Dec 6, 2014 20:53
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