|
JEEVES420 posted:agreed My uncle's lj came from the factory without the rubicon decals. He got it used from a carmax and they didn't even know it was a rubicon. He got the factory build sheet from Chrysler and the decal delete was listed.
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2012 05:35
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 19:13 |
|
|
ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Alright fellas....is there anything wrong with a Liberty? A local dealership has an awesome looking liberty sport 4wd with only 75k miles. The fleet manager of this big dealership network owes me a favor for helping them out with something, and he's willing to cut me a nice deal on something. It has the 3.7L, and looks to get around the same fuel mileage of my 08 escape (around 22ish mpg). My girlfriend has a KK Liberty. She averages about 17mpg in mixed, but mostly fast freeway, driving. It's been an okay vehicle. No major complaints. For what it is it did a respectable job off-road when we took it to the desert. We are probably going to be trading it in on something that gets better mileage in the near future.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2012 22:06
|
|
|
School me on adjustable control arms. I've got a 03 Rubicon with a 4.5 in lift. It's on stock control arms now. I've been looking at adjustable units and many of them seem the same. The shop I went to recommended Teraflex but they look the same as Rokmen or Currie and cost $400 more. Is that extra cost worth it? The JKS are the only ones that look substantially different than the other options but once again they are $400 more than the Rokmen. Thoughts on the issue?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2012 07:12
|
|
|
Kastivich posted:School me on adjustable control arms. I've got a 03 Rubicon with a 4.5 in lift. It's on stock control arms now. I've been looking at adjustable units and many of them seem the same. The shop I went to recommended Teraflex but they look the same as Rokmen or Currie and cost $400 more. Is that extra cost worth it? The JKS are the only ones that look substantially different than the other options but once again they are $400 more than the Rokmen. Thoughts on the issue? Bumping this back up since it didn't get any responses. Anyone have any thoughts on control arms. Im leaning towards the Rokmen units now.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2012 20:36
|
|
|
Tadhg posted:This might belong in the Stupid Questions thread, but I don't want to get a cigarette flicked at me. Looks like the ballast for an hid headlight. It just needs to be secured somewhere where it won't be exposed to water. Edit to clarify, it looks aftermarket so there probably isn't a "place" to reattach it. So just find the best place you can and use strong double sided tape or zip ties. Kastivich fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Mar 31, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2013 23:25
|
|
|
Tadhg posted:One of them was out when I bought the Jeep, and I still need to get around to replacing the bulb, so I still have no idea if I like hid lights or not. It's crazy bright and probably blinding oncoming drivers. For the sake of everyone else on the road, just go back to some high quality stock bulbs (and a wiring harness if you want maximum performance from them).
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2013 05:23
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I also noticed that I'm rubbing quite a bit at full flex. I'm hitting one of the bolts for what I think is the power steering pump? Also rubbing on the sway bar and the top of the coil springs. To fix this: spacers or wheels with a highers back spacing? Out of curiosity, what size tires/wheels are you running?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2013 19:56
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:33x12.5x15 - I'm not sure exactly on the wheels, they're 15" by probably 8", made by Ion. I think my lift is 4" but I'm not positive. I run 285/76x16s (a little taller and narrower than your 33x12.5) on my TJ with 4in of lift and stock Moab wheels. I only get a bit of rub at full stuff and when cranking the steering wheel hard to one side. I've considered spacers or new rims but I dont get enough rub to be overly concerned about it. I think if I was hitting as many things as you seem to be I would be strongly considering spacers or new rims. And thanks for the info on Corral Canyon, I hadn't heard of it and will need to check it out.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 1, 2013 21:44
|
|
|
RagingHematoma posted:I had been interested in getting a Jeep Liberty for some time. I always liked the look of the car and how it retained a lot of the classic Jeep styling. I held off on purchasing one because of the impending redesign which became the new Cherokee. I don't like anything about the new Cherokee so I decided to see what lease options were still available for 2012 Libertys. I found that you can get these at pretty bargain basement prices (Jet Edition). However every review I read says it is an aging platform not worth the money followed by a bunch of Liberty diehards saying the reviewers are wrong. There was one in our family before trading it in on something more fuel efficient. It was a decent vehicle for what it was. Definitely more off road capable than most other small SUVs. She had the 2WD/full-time/4L system which did great for the limited off-roading we did with it. Obviously it wasn't going to do the same things as my Rubicon but in the desert it was certainly good enough. The after market on the KK Liberties is pretty limited, so keep that in mind if you plan on modifying it. Overall I found it to be reasonably comfortable and reasonably quiet, with a not good but not awful 17-20 mpg (not bad, at least compared to my Rubicon). I think we got rid of it at 40k miles with nothing really going wrong during that time.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2013 17:55
|
|
|
Tadhg posted:^^^ That's looking gorgeous. How does the tinting on the turn signals work in practice? It's going to depend on how the previous owner did the modifications. If they used a new wiring harness it should just be un-plug and play. The old wiring should be intact and acting as the trigger for the hids. Hopefully they didn't cut any writing to make the connection to the hids.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 9, 2013 12:54
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:My spring had come unseated. I borrowed a coil spring compressor from the parts store and fixed it. When my shocks are fully extended the spring is siting there limp. It needs to be about two inches longer to stay in contact with top and bottom. Do I go with longer springs or shorter shocks?!? Weird timing. I was out on a trail today and decided to take a look while the front was flexed out. The driver's side spring was unseated from the top. First time I had seen it do that. The extended bump stop seemed to be keeping it in the right place though and when weight came back on it everything reseated correctly.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2013 05:20
|
|
|
Sharp_angus posted:So now that it's finally spring-ish weather up where I am, I'm looking at running door-less and such... Quadratec also sells a switch you can use in place of that fuse. Switch closed acts normal. Switch open acts like the fuse removed. You could also make one yourself pretty easily with a switch, in line fuse holder, and a couple of spades terminals.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2013 17:41
|
|
|
Animal posted:I think I am getting bad MPG, even for a TJ. Its a 6 cyl automatic, 2004 Wrangler X, stock. Getting about 13mpg, which is a bit low for city driving. Problem is most of my driving is highway driving, which should be giving me around 18. It has a new air filter and the tires are the right PSI. Overdrive is on. I dont really slam the pedal in, I try to let the car slowly ease into 70mph. Anything else that could be going wrong? That does sound low, I have a 03 TJ with 6 cyl, automatic, 4.10 gears, and 33's. I get 11-12 mpg off-road, 14-16 in mixed driving, and 16-17 while towing my little off-road trailer. I can only attribute the increased MPG to lower freeway speeds. You might consider getting an OBD reader. It may help you track down your issue. I would probably start by taking a look at the spark plugs to see what they can tell you about the way your engine is running.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2013 02:09
|
|
|
Braincloud posted:We took it up to Koke'e as well, but that was paved. I did notice the constant smell of burning brakes from other rentals (cars and jeeps) who didn't realize they would have an easier descent if they just shifted their slushbox into low gear. Thats funny, we were there a few weeks ago. On the way down we actually pulled over because the smell of burning brakes was so strong I thought there was something wrong with our rental. Turns out it was the van in front of us burning up their brakes.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2013 01:17
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I went up to big bear for the JK-forum's Topless for Tata's charity event that my friend was sponsoring. Was planning on doing John Bull but didn't want to be in line with 30 jeeps. Next time I'll just sit in line, meet some new people and make a day of it! Are you running 33s currently? I thought about running that trail a few weeks ago but the videos I watched were not encouraging considering I was only going with one other person. By diff guard do you mean something like the AEV diff slider, or just heavy duty diff covers?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2013 18:53
|
|
|
kastein posted:Do yourself a favor and get some RuffStuff diff covers instead of guards. Way stronger. I make gravel and shred tree stumps with my front diff cover and it's barely scratched. I was considering getting something like this: http://www.aev-conversions.com/shop/category/skid-plates/jk-slider-differential-skid-plate.html But I already have Crane diff covers on both ends. The AEV is a nice addition because it protects the Axle end joint.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2013 19:27
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Yes, I'm on 33s currently. I'd like to move up to 35s but that seems to be the move that takes way more money to do right. There's a bunch of other little stuff that seems like it plinks away until you've spent a thousand dollars on top of the price of tires. Speedometer gear, brake upgrades, axle shafts, gearing. I'm going in for new tires this Friday. 285/75-16 MT/Rs to replace my existing tires which are the same just first generation versions. I considered going to 35s but just couldn't justify the additional expense of all those items you described.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2013 22:31
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Another beautiful weekend in Big Bear! I wish this had come out in better quality. I cropped a panorama. What trail was this? It looks nice.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 3, 2013 18:42
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:She done busted. Time for some beefier control arm mounts Is it just the picture or does that control arm have no room to rotate in the mount? I guess what I'm asking is, how does that control arm move as the suspension cycles?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2013 18:31
|
|
It's all been bolt-on up til now! I think my buddy that knows how to weld should probably be the one doing the welding though, doesn't seem like a good way to test a new welders welds.
|
Astonishing Wang posted:The bushings are a sort of reverse hourglass, so the arm has a little room to move when the jeep flexes. It's come to my attention that these aren't the greatest design, and also probably at least part of the reason the mount broke. I may get something with a Johnny Joint or similar whenever I come up with some spare $$$ and don't have any other projects. Interesting, thanks. I recently replaced all of my control arms with Savvy units. Their performance has been impressive.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2013 19:28
|
|
|
They are definitely trick. I also had the JJ conversion done on the front axle top control arm mounts. It cost about as much to do just those arms as many complete lift kits.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2013 19:48
|
|
|
MidasAg posted:I was just wondering what the opinion is on the 04-06 TJ Unlimited, or LJ, is. I am thinking about getting one in the spring, and starting my research now. I think they look a lot better than a short wheelbase Jeep, and I'll be damned if I get a 4-door Jeep. It would be a 4.0 auto, 3-4' lift at max, and mostly used as a weekend warrior. The only downside I see with an LJ, and especially a Rubicon LJ, is the difficulty in finding them in decent condition for less than stupid money.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 7, 2013 00:52
|
|
|
Chef Bromden posted:I'm waiting a few more weeks before I resume my search. I'm also trying to figure out somewhere besides Craigslist to get leads for wranglers. Too many people trying to sell rusted out frames for $1k over the book value. Jeep Forum and Wrangler Forum are good places to search, but it doesn't tend to be cheap because people know what they have there.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2013 03:58
|
|
|
jonathan posted:We have a lot of trails where its off camber and you're side hilling for long distances. I find the sway bar keeps the lean angle in check. Other than that, there are a lot of rough sections followed by the nicest maintained gravel roads you will ever see. Like 85mph on cruise control. Currie Anti-rock is quite good at maintaining weight transfer while not limiting flex to a significant degree. The ORO SwayLoc with remote release is also an option if you have money to throw at it.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 3, 2013 05:56
|
|
|
tuna posted:Have you looked at any prices? I don't even know how much someone would charge to weld in something like the Poly Performance cage. Is $3k a ballpark figure for the cage + labor + rattlecan paint totally inaccurate? $3k seems seems a bit high to me. The shop I go to has quoted me about $1,700 to do the Poison Spyder sport cage and $300-400 more to do the Poly because of the extra work going through the dash.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2014 03:30
|
|
|
tuna posted:That's not too bad. Maybe I'll ask around to see what people throw out. Considering you have to strip out basically the entire interior to weld in the full Poly cage, I'm guessing people here will quote me a lot more than that though. Aren't you in So. Cal? The prices I got was from JeePerformance in Yucaipa. No one would accuse them of being the cheapest place but they do good work.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2014 19:28
|
|
|
tuna posted:Okay, thanks Its worth giving Stan (the owner) a call. He can at least give you prices on the options for cages. I lean heavily towards the Poly cage myself too. Through the dash just looks much cleaner than the flat pieces by the dash.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 6, 2014 22:22
|
|
|
SBJ posted:In my infinite wisdom I used aircraft engine coolant for my TJ as that's all I had available and I didn't think it would make much of a difference in a pinch. Stu's website may be helpful: http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/radiator/radiator-1.htm
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2014 16:52
|
|
|
giundy posted:Any JK owners with a Procal here willing to send it off for a couple weeks? I'd cover shipping. Got some sport take offs cheap on CL, I'd like my dash to be accurate. It is impressive the size difference between the base 29s and 32s. Now just to sell the 29s on steelies. My understanding is that the procal only works on one jeep at a time. The owner would need to reset their vehicle for you to use it. And you would need to do the same before sending it back.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2014 06:02
|
|
|
Does anyone have beadlocks or beadlock recommendations? The options available in 16x8 with a 4.5 in backspace are pretty limited. I'm considering going custom with rings added by OMF but its hard to get a price out of them as to what the conversion would cost.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2014 19:37
|
|
|
mattfl posted:New Jeep stuff!! Careful, your heavy steal bumper is FRAGILE.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2014 23:39
|
|
|
mod sassinator posted:So I've noticed something weird with my XJ, every now and then it will take a little longer than normal to fire up and start. The starter is cranking fine but it doesn't seem to be catching and firing up as quickly as normal. Over time it seems to be getting worse and taking longer to start. Maybe 2-3 weeks ago I would notice starting took an extra half second or two. Now today I noticed starting took maybe 2-3 seconds of cranking. This doesn't happen with every start, and I'm not sure it happens with cold vs. hot starts (will be on the lookout for it). This sounds just like the symptoms my tj had. I ended up replacing the fuel pressure regulator (sometimes listed as the fuel filter in parts diagrams). Symptoms cleared up right away after replacing it. Try doing the poor man's prime by cycling the key to the run position a few times before cranking to see if it starts easier. Get a fuel pressure gauge if you want to get a better look at what is happening.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2014 06:52
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Another LA Jeep guy. There's a bunch of us and we should meet up. I'd reboot the SoCal AI thread again but it always dies so fast. I'd be interested in doing this. I'm in the IE.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 24, 2014 22:17
|
|
|
BoostCreep posted:Rather than starting another SoCal AI post, anyone interested in a wheeling meet, join the SoCal AI facebook. https://www.facebook.com/groups/socalai/ That link doesn't work and my FB search was unproductive. Can you check the link?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 25, 2014 04:25
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Anyone know what range the throttle position sensor readout in Torque should have for a 2000 TJ 4.0? I'm getting 14% to 77%, foot off the pedal and wide open, respectively. My 2003 TJ is also somewhere around these values. Even opening the throttle fully by hand didn't push it over the ~76-77% throttle position sensor reading.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2014 08:34
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I blew up my rear diff today. Dana 44. I was going up a ledge and bounced a little too much. I heard a crack clank clunk and I backed off a little. I tried to get to the bypass and the sounds got worse. The gear oil started to pour out of the hole in the front underside of the pumpkin, where evidently some gear pieces decided to exit. I was halfway in to a one mile black diamond trail that I had done a few times before, so I was kinda in a tough spot. Luckily my buddy was able to come bail me out withhis jeep and trailer. So now I have a couple of options: Out of curiosity, what trail did this occur on?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 29, 2014 06:57
|
|
|
Black Magic pads and Centric rotors get reviewed very positively for a low cost upgrade.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 21, 2015 05:09
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:I just pulled up the back tub carpets in my TJ, the bottom and the two wheel well covers - Looks like it's going to take me a while to get all of that trail dust out of there. I'm going to take them to the self service carwash and spray them until they run clean, then air dry them on my balcony. I'm thinking I'll start with high pressure spray, then engine degreaser/tire shine foam, then foam brush, then high pressure rinse again. I'll probably skip the turtle wax. I'll bet I can get it done in under $3 time. I just pulled and cleaned the carpet in mine too. That desert dirt gets everywhere.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 5, 2015 23:50
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:
Pretty much every oil test of my TJ shows elevated silicon. They advise me to check my intake for leaks. I assume it is from the super fine desert dirt. I just sent another sample out today with a couple of solid off road trips. We will see what it looks like.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2015 22:47
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 19:13 |
|
|
I've got a shimmy (not quite death wobble) that I just cant get rid of on my TJ Rubicon. I had a shop look at it. They recommended re-balancing the tires, noted some play in the track bar, and slight wear in an upper ball joint. I had them re-balance the tires. Replaced the track bar with a MetalCloak unit and did an at-home alignment to reset toe. It is better but still shows up on some roads. It is really frustrating and I am running out of patience to find whatever the problem is. Im afraid my MT/Rs may be the problem but they only have like 8k miles on them.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2017 18:27
|
|