|
I've been thinking of getting a tow vehicle for my 1991 Eagle Talon for a while now since it will never be street legal in California, and after doing a ton of research I'd like to get a 93-95 Grand Cherokee V8 with the factory tow package. My budget is $3,000 which means the mileage will be pretty high. I found a '94 Limited with everything I want, including the super plush leather seats that seem impossible to find, for $2,750. It seems to be in great shape, but something that concerns me is in the picture below...  Obviously the Jeep logo has been reapplied since the P is lined up with the rest of the word, looking like JeeP instead of Jeep. I assume this means either a repaint or rear end rebuild. I realize I'll have to go see the car to check it out, but does this look like a problem? My other question is that the car has 172,000 miles. It does come with a 3 month/3,000 mile warranty which is nice, and it gives me some faith that the used dealer that is selling it believes it to be a solid car. Having said that, would a Grand Cherokee V8 with 172k miles be relatively reliable for a while as a daily driver (with occasionally towing a 3,200lb car with trailer), or do things start going wrong around this mileage? I don't know much about Jeeps, so any help would be appreciated.
|
#
¿
May 30, 2010 20:10
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 00:19 |
|
|
I just joined the Jeep club. I've been looking for the past 4 months for either an XJ or ZJ and finally found something I really liked. Crappy cell phone pics to follow: (Waffleimages has been wonky, so hopefully it works)    It's an '01 Cherokee Sport 4x4 with 127k miles and it runs like new. I happened to pass by a rather shady looking used dealer in the SFV in LA and it was sitting right in the front row on the lot. The owner ended up being super nice and worked with me on the price ($5,500) until I was happy. It was the color I wanted, drivetrain, and '97+. Perfect. I know the '00 and '01 models had some head issues, but at 127k miles I have to assume that problem would have surfaced by now. And I know I could have found one a little cheaper from a private seller, but this has all new fluids, just passed SMOG, and is basically reconditioned to be as new as possible. After running an Autocheck I found that it was owned by a company as a fleet vehicle its entire life. Normally that would raise concerns for me, but the maintenance records were exhaustive. It had 56 records of maintenance and it shows. The metal work is flawless, all original paint which shines like it was on the showroom floor, and you could eat off the engine it is so clean. Not a speck of rust anywhere. I was really impressed with it and couldn't resist. It drives straight as an arrow and is completely happy at 80mph. All it really needs is two new tires on the rear in probably a couple thousand miles. It also has a tow hitch which is perfect because I plan on towing my broken DSM around with it. So there we have it. I love this thing and can't wait to get it off road. I will be using it to tow my Talon to LA from San Fran, and then to the track once I get it working again. It will also be used for camping and getting the hell out of LA whenever I can. I really want to take it on some trails once I get familiar enough with driving it. I don't really know the capabilities of the stock XJ, but from watching YouTube videos it seems quite capable off road. It will eventually get a small lift and some bigger tires for sure, probably not much more than that though for a while. I've been a turbo import guy my whole life, so I'm used to lowering cars rather than lifting them. I'm sure the bug will bite soon though.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2010 21:03
|
|
|
DropShadow posted:Their price is pretty high so I'm trying to figure out what I'd offer. I'm guessing they gave the previous owner roughly $4000 on it as a trade. KBB says trade-in value is $3750 and this one seems to be in good shape. What would be a realistic offer, and what should I look for if I go to check it out? THANKS JEEP THREAD! I just bought an '01 Cherokee Sport and posted about it on the previous page. The used car dealer wanted nearly $9k for it with 127k miles and I talked them down to $5,500. I live in LA though, where car prices are automatically 30% higher than anywhere else in the country. So for an XJ with 61k miles I'd think $6k is perfectly reasonable.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2010 20:04
|
|
|
DropShadow posted:Just got the Carfax and noticed something odd: Intercooler checked? Does that Cherokee come with a turbo from the factory? I have to assume that was either a typo or someone got confused.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2010 20:53
|
|
|
dMastri posted:I wouldn't pay more than $6000 for that. And I wouldn't feel good at that price. Of course you can find them cheaper from private sellers, and occasionally you find a really good one that has been maintained well. But you also don't get it completely reconditioned as dealers have to do. You can't possibly compare the prices of a privately sold car and one from a dealer. That is why KBB asks if you want a private party quote or a dealer quote. It assumes that the vehicle has been brought as close to factory condition as possible, or "Excellent" on their rating scale. Also private parties sure as hell won't be selling you the car with a warranty either. Those are the perks of buying used cars from dealers at the cost of paying slightly more than from Joe Shmoe on CraigsList.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2010 21:33
|
|
|
Doctor Zero posted:You do realize that "reconditioned" just means washed, vacuumed, & inspected, right? Well, no. In California it also means the car is made to pass SMOG, which is pretty important for a ten year old car. My Jeep for example failed SMOG when the dealer got it tested and had to be serviced before it could be sold. It has a shiny new cat now that will be good for another 100k miles. It also got brand new fluids front to back with maintenance records, two new wheel bearings, and a list of other minor fixes. And yes, it was also washed, vacuumed, and inspected.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2010 23:31
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:But what if that cat burned out fast, and the underlying problems that caused it to plug up early weren't addressed? I don't see how, even with smog testing as a bar, dealers wouldn't do the bare minimum at each possible step. That is absolutely possible and a chance you risk with any used car. But at least the dealer is doing something while a private party seller wouldn't do anything at all.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 6, 2010 23:52
|
|
|
I lifted my Jeep! The day I got it, two months ago: Post lift:     Things I learned: I need an adjustable track bar. The axle was so far to the driver side that I couldn't get the sway bar reattached with the Jeep jacked up. Once on the ground, the driver side tire is about an inch further outside the fender than the passenger side. I'm hoping that explains why the tires are rubbing the fenders when I turn to the right. I ordered a new track bar to remedy the situation, so hopefully I can turn full lock once I install that. It rides much better than with the stock parts, but that could be contributed to the fact that the stuff I took off had 130k on them. It rides smoother, takes bumps on the highway much better, and overall feels much more solid. I am concerned about the distance between the tires and wheel wells though. I've been told I have to trim the fenders to stop 31's from rubbing the factory flares. I'm ok with that, though I would have liked to keep the factory flares at least until I got bigger tires down the road. I ordered rock rails, tow hooks, the new track bar, and a shackle for the rear hitch, all of which should be here in the next two weeks. I can't wait to get everything put together and start using this thing. Things I installed are Rough Country 3" suspension lift with full leaf packs and upgraded Nitro shocks, steering stabilizer, Cragar Soft 8 15x8 wheels, 31x10.5 BFG ATs, and a satellite radio head unit so I can have music when I'm driving on trails and camping. The nice thing is it has the factory tow package, so it has 3.73 gears according to Wikipedia. One interesting thing I noticed when doing the lift is that this Jeep has no rear sway bar. I did some reading and found that XJs that came with the Up Country package did not come with a rear sway bar, sat 1" higher than regular Cherokees, and came with an LSD installed in the rear. Police and Fire dept. Cherokees had this package, and my Jeep is an ex-fleet vehicle, so I'm assuming I have a factory LSD which is sweet.  Not that it is necessarily working great after 130k miles, but at least I know it's there.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2010 04:46
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:Check the tag on the rear diff, It will say what the gear ratio is and if its an LSD rear. Thanks for the advice. It does indeed have a limited slip diff with 3.73s. Looks like I got lucky with this Jeep. If only it wasn't a Dana 35. Fleet vehicles are weird. Factory tow package, Up Country package, D35, LSD, and ABS. Not a very common combo on XJs.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2010 23:52
|
|
|
Demokracy posted:For all the XJ guys out there, I have a few questions. I'm looking to start getting into off roading pretty heavily, and am finally in a position where I can afford the rig, and a lot of the modifications I want to do with it. My question is which year/model is considered the "best" for the Jeep Cherokee. And with the year/model that is considered the best, what are the short comings of it? What else should I look for when purchasing a Cherokee? '91 up is the High Output engine. Most parts are interchangeable for the '91 up XJs, so any weak points between the models can just be swapped out. There are thousands of XJs in junkyards from the Cash 4 Clunkers program, so parts are plentiful and cheap. And since you say you are getting into off roading "pretty heavily", you will probably be swapping most weak parts out anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2010 19:52
|
|
|
I've been driving my 2001 XJ for 4 days now since I did the 3" lift, 31x10.5" tires, and got an alignment done. After seeing how it handles and drives since the lift, I have a couple of questions for people with more experience with lifted vehicles... The steering now feels extremely sloppy. Is this normal? I can turn the wheel 4 inches in either direction and it doesn't really adjust the steering at all. Also if there is a slight crown in the road I have to turn the wheel against the crown to keep the vehicle straight. This was not a problem before the lift and now seems to be a pretty big problem. The steering just feels overall very sloppy compared to before the lift. I also noticed that when I hit the brakes fairly hard, the Jeep pulls to the left pretty considerably, almost as if the rear of the truck wants to come around to the passenger side. I am planning on doing new pads and flushing/replacing the brake fluid anyway, but the brakes felt pretty good and at least consistent before the lift. I also installed an adjustable track bar which the alignment person didn't understand how to use, so I know I need to bring the front axle about half an inch to the driver's side of the car, but I can't imagine that causing the brakes and steering to be so out of whack. I am assuming this is all because the Jeep is 9 years old and has 130,000 miles on it, and that the problems were probably there before but have been accentuated by the lift. I may be wrong though, and since my only experience modifying cars thus far have been lowering them rather than raising them, I am in new territory.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2010 21:25
|
|
|
Thanks for the input. The more I think about it, the more I think the alignment was just not done correctly. I read on NAXJA that national chains will put the settings to factory spec instead of what is needed for a lifted truck, and I honestly didn't even think about that. I took it to Firestone for the alignment and I probably should have taken it to a 4x4 specialty shop or something. Well that was an expensive lesson. I don't really see any flex on the drag link or pitman arm, which seems normal for a 3" lift. Especially since this Cherokee had the Up Country package which gave it a 1" higher lift from the factory, so really it's just 2" higher than stock. Fixing the alignment should help the steering issue hopefully, which just leaves figuring out the brakes. It does have ABS, but the lines all seem free and clear of kinks or being over extended. Hopefully new pads, shoes, and a fluid flush will help out.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2010 22:47
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Do XJ's have the same caster problem when you lift them that TJ's get? Yes they have solid front axles. What I am learning (complete 4x4 noob) is that I can adjust toe, drag link, and caster to a limited degree. I also have an adjustable track bar that I can use to move the axle laterally. I'll be fixing everything this weekend myself. I found some good write-ups on doing my own alignment adjustments. example: (http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm) Does this seem sound?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2010 06:39
|
|
|
PBCrunch posted:I have a 1997 Cherokee 4x4 with the not fulltime 4WD. If I wanted to put a slight lift on it what should I do? I don't want the ride to turn to poo poo either. I don't mind paying a little extra for quality parts. The truck has a ton of miles on it, so more comprehensive kits that replace old parts are fine with me. Im assuming you mean an XJ, so your magic numbers are 3" and 31". 3" lift is the highest you can lift without needing to extend any brake lines or adjust your steering and deal with drivetrain issues. 31" tires are the max you will fit under a 3" lift without rubbing as long as they are mounted on factory wheels. (though a small spacer will make sure the tires don't rub on the control arms and frame.) This is all ok unless you plan to do real offroading on trails, in which case you will want to probably go with 30" tires and some slight trimming on your fenders at 3" of lift. I put a Rough Country 3" lift with full leaf packs on my '01 Cherokee XJ and the ride actually improved pretty substantially. Most because I was replacing 130,000 mile shocks and springs, but it improved either way. As for tires, you can find tires from $115+ at 31". The more you pay the better the tire.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 1, 2010 20:21
|
|
|
I've been chasing down a short in my '01 XJ for two weeks and it's starting to drive me crazy. I'm really not great at electrical gremlins and would love some advice from people who have more experience than me. The problem is the passenger side headlight low beam went out (high beam works fine). I replaced both headlights, which of course didn't fix the issue at all. I opened the fuse box in the passenger kick panel to find the #5 fuse blown, which is for the passenger headlight. I replaced the fuse and the headlight worked again for a little while before the fuse blew again. After doing a ton of research and reading on XJ forums, it's pretty obvious that it is a short in the system somewhere. Most forum posts say to check the trailer hitch wiring, all the bulbs, headlight switch, headlight plugs, and everything short of ripping the entire chassis apart just to fix one little worn wire, which I've pretty much already done. So does anyone have any advice? I bought a multimeter, but for some reason (probably out of simple frustration with the issue), I can't seem to get a usable reading from the meter. I'm posting to see if anyone happens to know a trick or had this happen before and what would be a good place to look for a grounded wire.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 2, 2010 03:59
|
|
|
I'm almost positive that all 97+ Cherokees have the 20 gallon tank.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2010 00:55
|
|
|
Just installed Napier Precision v2 fender flares on my XJ last weekend. These things are super nice, thicker and tougher than Bushwackers, and actually cheaper too. I was really impressed with the quality and I've seen shorter installation instructions with turbo kits. I did the fronts last weekend in the free time I had, and hopefully I can get to the rears this weekend.    I ripped up my front fenders on a trip to Cleghorn near Big Bear, CA in September and these flares seemed to be the best way to straighten them out. Worked perfectly. I cut about 2-3 inches of metal off the fenders and should hopefully have no trouble with clearance now. For only 3" of lift and 31x10 tires I think the clearance is looking pretty good. Now if only I could figure out why my passenger headlight keeps blowing its fuse.... the list of things to do never ends.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2010 02:44
|
|
|
Bumming Your Scene posted:I've been trying to get a Jeep in socal for a while... I've given up trying for the $2-3K range. I know mid-90's XJ's were going for that just a year or two ago, but they've gone up I think. It's a bitch trying to get a 4x4 for cheap here. It certainly is a bitch finding them cheap here. You can find 4x4 Jeeps for the 2k-3k range, but they are all ragged to hell and torn up. I spent 5 months searching for a decent XJ before finally caving and upping my price range. I found a very good condition 2001 with 125k miles for $5,500 6 months ago. Seems pricey for the mileage compared to the rest of the country, but there is definitely a markup living in SoCal. For the record, the one I found is perfect mechanically and is overall in great shape, and I stumbled upon it at a used car dealership in the valley. If you want to pay the premium for a good condition CJ you will certainly have something unique though.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2011 02:51
|
|
|
I am a HUGE F'N MORON. My battery was dead this morning, and because of stupid reasons that I don't want to get into, I accidentally reversed the battery cables when jumping my 2001 XJ. So now the engine will turn over and catch, but dies right away. If I start it and floor the gas pedal I can keep it running for a second or two before it dies again. I checked all the fuses that I could find and they look good, but the Haynes manual that I have apparently has nothing in it about the location of the car's computer and I didn't have time to go tearing everything apart to check it. (I have since located it on the driver side of the engine bay next to the air box.) I have to assume the ECU or crank position sensor, or both are blown. Or something in the ignition. Of course it is a 2001, so it has the crazy complex and somewhat rare coil on plug style ignition so I can't just grab parts from junkyards since all they have around me are 80's to mid 90's XJs. (I know, I was at all of them last weekend.) I tried searching through various Jeep forums and the internet in general and the replies I am finding to this problem are barely legible as english. So on a super long shot, does anyone have an idea of what might be fried, or has anyone heard of someone doing something as stupid as this and figuring out what is broken? My biggest problem is I have zero time over the next two weeks to fix this myself, and I need a car since I live 25 miles from work. Therefore, I am getting a rental until this gets fixed, which means I'm going to have to take it to a shop and pay out the rear end to fix something that normally I'd be able to tackle myself. Anyway, if anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate hearing them. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Apr 26, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2011 22:23
|
|
|
I found this leading from the positive battery cable to the main fuse box in the engine bay. Could this be a fusible link? I've spent about two hours going through my XJ looking for blown fuses, relays, and other stuff and everything looks in perfect shape. Does anyone know if later XJs have fusible links? I would have pulled it apart but I was already late for work and I think that orange tab is holding the two sides of the clip together like super glue. Definitely not meant to be taken apart easily.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2011 21:34
|
|
|
Team140 posted:I've got a couple of '99 XJs. One is a daily driver, the other is a parts bitch until I get the time to make it nice. When I need to jump it off to move it on occasion, it will start, run for a few seconds, then die. You were spot on. I installed the new battery and basically went through a couple phases of turning the key to ON and back off after 20 seconds to let the ECU run some diagnostic cycles. It fired right up after that. Thank you! The only collateral damage so far is that my passenger headlight fuse is blowing out and the rear driver side speaker stopped working. Those issues I can deal with though. One funny thing is that my FM radio on my head unit stopped working 6 months ago and now it works again. I'll take that. The other good thing is that this got me motivated to work on the Jeep again, so I finally cut and folded my rear fenders. I have a pair of Napier Precision V2 fender flares for the rear to install this weekend to match the ones I have on the front. I think it's pretty good clearance for only a 3" lift. 
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2011 07:58
|
|
|
Roneth posted:On some parts websites, I'm seeing quite a few parts that will fit an 2000 XJ (according to the part description), but doesn't mention the 2001 XJ. It doesn't say that it WON'T fit the 2001, just doesn't mention it. Is it safe to assume that parts for the 2000 and 2001 are all interchangeable? Yes they are.
|
|
#
¿
May 6, 2011 21:44
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Somethings hosed on my 99 cherokee when it was running. Heads? Does that mean it's a GC V8? If it is the 4.0 you should check to see what head casting you have. You have telltale symptoms of a cracked head which is common on the 99+ Cherokees. Look between the 3 and 4 cylinders right near the valve cover on the driver side for your casting number.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2011 09:06
|
|
|
Slow is Fast posted:Whoop, it's a 99 XJ with the 4.0. I got a 99 because I thought it was 2000+ with the bad heads, but I'll check just to make sure. I just remembered that my friend with a '99 XJ had the freeze plugs on the back of the engine go bad and had similar symptoms a few years ago. He ended up getting the headgasket and freeze plugs replaced. And for the record, my '01 XJ is going strong with its 0331 head at 138k. Hopefully I got one of the good ones.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2011 23:07
|
|
|
Finished putting my rear fender flares on last weekend and thought I'd post a pic. These are the Napier Precision V2 fender flares for the 97+ XJ.  Now I need to get the hell out of LA for a weekend and get some trail time.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2011 05:40
|
|
|
waffleking posted:Hey dudes, can I join your Jeep club? I just got my first Jeep two weeks ago and it is awesome! It's a Welcome! How does that 4 banger do with the 33"s?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 30, 2011 22:51
|
|
|
Bucephalus posted:Are they all the same tread, but with 1 oddball carcass? Yeah that still looks like All-Terrain tread to me.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 14, 2011 03:13
|
|
|
I snapped a picture yesterday of my XJ when I went hiking in the Angeles Forest. The place was PACKED and I ended up parking about 3/4 of a mile down the hill from the trail entrance. People can basically park anywhere they can find a spot on the narrow road going up the mountain. I'm glad I took the Jeep because I was able to park where most people wouldn't dare. This was good, because the next closest available parking spot was another mile down the road. The embankment doesn't look very steep in this picture, but the passenger tires were a good 2 feet below the driver side tires. 
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2011 00:55
|
|
|
ornery owl posted:I need/want to get new shocks for my XJ since they are still stock and have 11 years on them. I also want to get a 2"ish lift on it so I can run 30" tires. It's my daily driver with some light off-roading thrown in here and there. Anyone have any thoughts on just buying this set? http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_1.html I went with Rough Country for my 3" lift. The ride was greatly improved and it handles better now with the 3" lift on 31's than it did with the stock wheels and rubber. I decided to upgrade from the Hydro to Nitro shocks though, so that might be something worth looking into since the upgrade is pretty cheap.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2011 06:53
|
|
|
giundy posted:I hear the Prius (Yaris/Echo?) is often cited for its off-road capabilities also. It was a Toyota minivan, and that part of the shoulder was nearly flat. Like I said, it doesn't look very steep in the picture. And neither does this, but it was. 
BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Jul 20, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2011 22:19
|
|
|
Omne posted:I have heard that once Jeep's get to 100k they start to fall apart. My '01 Cherokee is at 141k and is doing pretty darn well. It does have a squeak from the steering box, but I can live with that. Maybe it's the Daimler Jeeps that you've been hearing about?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 25, 2011 01:52
|
|
|
Veeb0rg posted:well to be fair the oil leak thing is more of a 4.0l trait and not a chassis 4x4 only thing, My cherokee's 4.0l marks its territory with the best of em. Somehow I must have the only 140k mileage 4.0 that doesn't so much as leak a drip. The engine is bone dry on the outside, as well as all the diffs and transfercase. That's what I get for buying a fleet vehicle.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 1, 2011 19:59
|
|
|
How terrible is the WK? I'm getting closer to needing a tow vehicle for my project car I've been working on and I know my XJ won't cut it, so I've been trying to make some decisions on what to do. I could hopefully get maybe $4k for my XJ and use that as a down payment on a bigger tow vehicle. I really love my XJ though and I know I'd regret selling it, but I wouldn't have room for 3 vehicles. Having said that, I'd still want a vehicle that I could use for camping and mild off-roading. I came across a 2006 Grand Cherokee Overland 5.7L 4x4 for $17k and it looks pretty nice. From what I can tell, the Overland has the Quadra-Drive II, which is the best the WK has to offer. So what do I need to know about this vintage GC? Is it even worth looking into? It apparently has decent reliability ratings, but I don't really know much more about it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2011 04:23
|
|
|
Steiler Drep posted:You should look into getting a 2009+ 5.7L, as it got VVT and MDS, plus ~20hp improvement. Thanks for the info! $17k is actually one of the better priced WKs I've seen locally. Used car prices are out of control in CA. The only way to get it lower than that is to go either super high mileage or getting a basic model with RWD only. And I'm trying to keep the price in the mid teens, so getting an '09+ is pretty much out. Do you happen to know how capable off road these are? I'm not trying to crawl over rocks or anything, but I'd still like to be able to take the odd trail now and then.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 12, 2011 18:08
|
|
|
What I'm learning from this discussion is that I should ship my '01 Cherokee to Costa Rica and instantly sell it for double what I'd make in CA and half of what it costs in CR. Pretty sound business model.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2011 20:45
|
|
|
Kibblesnbits posted:... So it's a Hummer H3T with less cargo space? Except that people have been doing it at least a decade before the H3 was even a figment of GM's imagination.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2011 19:39
|
|
|
Is there a reason for so much Commander hate in this thread? From what I can tell, it offers Quadra-Drive II just like the Grand Cherokee, which seems to be a pretty solid system. It also come with the 5.7 and seats 8. And it looks pretty decent with some nice call backs to the XJ. So why does everyone hate it so much? Is it just Jeep solid axle snobs being snobby? I ask because I am looking at getting either an XK or WK pretty soon and I am comparing the two back to back. I basically need a tow rig with decent room inside and a good 4x4 system for winter ski trips, summer camping, and mild offroading. I already got some good positive feedback on the WK a few days ago here, but I really like the additional skylights in the Commander, as well as the optional third row seating. I'm going to test drive both this weekend, but if anyone has a reason why the Commander isn't worth looking into, I'd love to hear it. I decided to keep my XJ for the serious off-roading, so I don't have to worry about crazy mods for the Comamnder/GC if I get one.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2011 22:09
|
|
|
Thanks for all the input. Grand Cherokee it is then.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2011 01:36
|
|
|
Boomerjinks posted:The Jeep was delivered that morning and signed for by one TellTale's employees, a self-professed "person who doesn't know anything about cars and in fact does not even own a car!" This right here is your problem. The auto transport got their little paper signed, releasing them of any and all damage upon arrival. TellTale can say you have to file a claim with the autotransport because they are the ones that damaged the Jeep, but the moment that pen hit the dotted line they can no longer be held responsible for the damages. It seems your only alternative is to go after TellTale at this point since they signed the papers. But really, since they didn't directly do the damage, it appears you are SOL. This is why I will never trust an autotransport company. Well this and when one basically totalled my car a few years ago. I'll echo the need to talk to a lawyer. It sounds like you don't have much legal recourse here unless a lawyer has a trick up his sleeve.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2011 01:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 00:19 |
|
|
My 2001 XJ auto has 142,000 miles on it. I've owned it for just over a year and put 20k effortless miles on it since I bought it. Over the last 6 months, however, I have noticed that the transmission rpm will drop on the highway to cruise around 1,700rpm or so at 70mph. When I lightly push the gas pedal, the rpms will jump up about 1000rpm and then drop down immediately again another 500. I assume this has something to do with the torque converter? Anyway, my question is, I don't know when the transmission fluid was changed last, and I've always heard to just keep whatever fluid is in a higher mileage auto tranny until it basically dies since replacing it could cause it to die prematurely. Would a fluid drain and refill potentially fix this issue, or would it cause more problems and I should just deal with it? The good thing is that the fluid is still quite red and doesn't smell burnt, and the transmission shifts perfectly up and down through all the other gears. So far I've just been dealing with the lower rpm on the highway and leaving it as is since it drives so well otherwise.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 7, 2011 07:48
|
|