kastein posted:

the U-bolt ones? I don't even bother trying to unbolt them anymore, I just cut em in half. I'm surprised they didn't do the same. They're so close to the heat of the catalytic converter that they are almost always rusted solid and/or (in the rust belt) an unrecognizable blob of rust anyways.

Most shops won't start a job till they have all the parts they expect to need, simply because generally that means a shop bay tied up with a torn apart vehicle in it for up to a day or two while waiting for parts to arrive. Throughput (and therefore shop space) are king, leaving something sitting in a shop bay not being worked on is a waste.

adorai posted:

1) the fender flares and other trim pieces are very faded. I was thinking about using bedliner on them, will it look good?

kastein posted:

Sounds like U-joints to me. Does it get worse when you're cornering?

They're cheap and fairly easy to replace even on crusty axles, here's a howto:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PpR-DcRV08

There are two common axle joint sizes on jeeps - 5-260X and 5-760X. Measure the "cap" you can see him pounding out in that video, if it's 1 1/16" diameter it's a 260, if it's 1 3/16" it's a 760. I generally only use Spicers because they're way more durable than most parts store brands... and cost less bought online than parts store brands do in-store.

Some early XJs, some ZJs, and all WJs got CV joints, but everything else has ujoints.

Before spending time/money on those, make sure it's not brakes - if it changes intensity by a significant amount when you step on the brakes, it probably is. If not, I'd bet on ujoints.

Digital_Jesus posted:

Also can anyone recommend a good soft top for around town rain prevention that wont run my wallet into the ground?

Just don't want to have to gently caress with the hard top every time it's a nice day

commissargribb posted:

If I didnt have kid crusher bars, I would be all over getting a hardwareless top.

Rhyno posted:

It's my girlfriend's Jeep. It's shaking pretty bad at 40-50mph so she dropped it at the mechanic I trust and he diagnosed it as Death Wobble and recommended replacing the steering damper. He did tell me this might not totally fix the problem but as we don't plan to keep it much longer and money is a wee bit tight this month. I looked up the part and Autozone has it for $30 and a few quick searches claim it's a very easy job but I couldn't find much in the way of detailed instructions.

mattfl posted:

kastein posted:

Turn the wheels to about a 20 degree angle, put the frontend on jackstands, and spin the tires by hand while watching/listening to the ujoint. You should hear a squeak most likely.

EightBit posted:

That is a giant undertaking if you've never done anything like it before. I'm not saying that you shouldn't, just be prepared. To do the camshaft, you'll be disassembling a significant majority of the engine; you'll basically only be leaving the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and flywheel untouched. Unless it looks like it has excessive wear when you pull out the lifters, I'd leave the camshaft be, but that's your call. You might have to pull it out to inspect it, though . The FSM should have the information for determining if it really is too worn to recommend reuse.

I'm assuming that you're talking about the 4.0. Have you eliminated the other common sources of ticking: exhaust cracks/leaks, camshaft position sensor, timing chain, normal 4.0 chatter?

Be sure to get a gasket kit that includes all the replacement gaskets for doing a head gasket job (it's a surprisingly large amount of gaskets and o-rings). Auto parts stores usually have them

rally posted:

This. Make sure you don't tear the engine apart just because your mechanic thinks it's a lifter tick. I had a pretty gnarly knocking going on and it turned out to be a loose flex plate.

Molten Llama posted:

Talk of fixing lifter tick on the 4.0? What alternate reality have I crossed into?

ExplodingSims posted:

Have you had any work done on the lifters/head in the past? I had some loud tick after replacing the head on my Cherokee, and it was caused cause one of the rocker arms wasn't tightened down properly. It might be worth it to inspect that before tearing everything apart.

DixielandDelight posted:

4.0 till I die



32s on stock. Still up in the air if I'll do the 2" lift or not. Took it to the trail and there was no rubbing whatsoever.

EightBit posted:

Have you put a finger on the camshaft position sensor to see if that is what makes the noise?

kastein posted:

SHUT THAT OFF

that is definitely NOT an exhaust manifold crack, that's either a horrible piston slap (dropped skirt?), a bad wrist pin, or a bad conrod bearing. Nothing good can come of running that motor more without repairing whatever's wrong with it.

Unless it's something snagged on the belt whipping into things, but I don't think the belt would last that long nor would it make that much noise.

How's the oil pressure at idle?

Veins McGee posted:

99 Cherokee
Can I pull my CEL codes by doing the thing that makes them display in the odometer area or do I need to go to autozone?

brains posted:

some fun in the mountains: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-5S-8vWgag

the last one is me

my lockers were disengaged

DixielandDelight posted:

I'm looking at putting new gears in and figured I'd stop in here and gather y'alls opinion. I've got the 4.0 and am running 32s. I'm thinking about running 4.11s but from what I gather, something like 3.73s offer better MPG. If my understanding is correct, I'll lose torque but boost MPG with lower gears and the inverse with higher gears. Am I correct? All I know is that I need to get rid of these 3.07s - I'm getting low teen MPG and a top speed of about 80 that requires quite a struggle.

Do Not Fear Jazz posted:

I couldn't find my ZJ fog lights sadly.

If anyone else has a ZJ(TJ,YJ,MJ,or XJ) I have 2 sets of spacers (1" spidertrax) (1.5" rough country) and ZJ tow hooks that I still need to get rid of.

Also may trade my XJ for a 5.9 Grand Cherokee.

gileadexile posted:

In other great news, my exhaust manifold is either cracked or loose, and it randomly started backfiring up front when I lay off the throttle. Since there don't appear to be any performance options, if I have to get a whole new manifold, should I buy OEM replacement or search a junkyard?

kastein posted:

Depends on if it's oil or grease. If it's grease, the ujoint has been flinging it around, and it's probably just excess that squeezed out after the last time that ujoint got greased.

If it's definitely trans fluid (well, transfer case fluid, but jeep transfer cases use ATF) it's the rear output seal on the transfer case.