|
Roger Daltrey posted:YEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH   OH GOD HOW DID A ZJ GET THROUGH THE JPEG COMPRESSION  I wish I could go back in time and keep this five-speed '00 XJ instead of the ugly-rear end white one I'm stuck with now. 
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Feb 15, 2008 |
#
¿
Feb 15, 2008 16:43
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 12:15 |
|
|
The King of Swag posted:Jeeps are an integral part of my family and hopefully they continue to be for many generations. Of course, I'm the newest generation of my family to own a Jeep (I'll post a picture up later) and I'm proud to carry on the tradition.  ), another driving across Northern Africa. His last, a 2001, was an automatic bought on his 89th birthday. He wanted to own just one red Cherokee after that, but the KJ was released and he just wouldn't accept that. I can think of nine other Cherokees owned among the generations after his. Crazy old man and his goddamn Jeeps.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2008 03:07
|
|
|
It seemed to be an isolated problem on the first batch of the new head design. I have yet to see an '00/01 have a head failure, and I have six in my immediate family, two over 300k.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2008 10:24
|
|
|
MrZig posted:Someone in the Okangan, British Columbia, should buy this:
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2008 02:57
|
|
|
Telven posted: I'd do anything to have that one back. charliebravo77 posted:I did actually! http://tinyurl.com/46rxnx 
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Jun 29, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Jun 29, 2008 04:59
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I said not huge lift! There's a guy driving around town with a towering Cherokee that looks like it's going to tip over at every turn. I saw it twice and never again. I should check the junkyard next time I'm there. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Jul 3, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2008 23:42
|
|
|
A couple issues ('01 XJ): 1) In 2005 I installed a pair of Hella 55w driving lights on the front bumper of my Cherokee, wiring them into the headlight switch with a $10 AutoZone toggle where the factory fog switch would have gone. (Basically the recommended Hella wiring [PDF], except not exclusive to highbeams). They worked fine for several months until said switch shat out, taking with it my interior and tail lights. Subsequent attempts to get things back up and going (including by a 30-year DCX tech) have resulted in the fuse blowing within a few minutes.  gently caress that, I've been driving-lightless for 20 months in the darkest nether-regions of nowhere.How the do I wire these lights on their own circuit? I want it independent of everything else, no more bullshit, in such a way that won't toast my Jeep. Electricity is somewhat of a mystery to me. 2) What mufflers exist that are slightly louder and throatier than stock, but not obnoxious and/or loud under reasonable load? An errant rock accelerated the oxidation through my muffler. I'll probably have something 2.5" built from the muffler back and would like something with more bark, but I don't want a TRIP OUT THA FLOWMASTAS exhaust (despite this being eastern TN, where every other truck is a quad-exhaust chrome-and-camo Silverado Z71 with Earnhardt/Jesus/Forrest '08 stickers driven by a 15-year-old). Going with a catback seems tricky since my XJ is an '01 and the models that fit properly are limited ("guaranteed for '84-'01" can bite me). SNiPER_Magnum posted:I think those are Renix valve covers. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 06:48 on Jul 9, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2008 06:45
|
|
|
ethanol posted:I know the ride quality in wranglers are less than average but I just don't know how to tell if something is actually wrong. How much wandering do jeeps normally do?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2008 17:02
|
|
|
sanchez posted:
Very much so! It's a larger vehicle than its compatriots, but it'll still get you stuck in places you never imagined possible. And yes, the RT/S is mediocre at best. They were OE on my XJ in 225/75, and dry asphalt often felt like a fresh rain when they still had 80% tread depth. I swapped to 235/75 BFG All Terrain KOs and probably had double the traction in all circumstances. (and I still think the WJ is the prettiest Jeep  )
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Jul 11, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Jul 11, 2008 03:24
|
|
|
The Patriot is a gussied-up Dodge Caliber. It's better on road and gets better mileage than the Cherokee, but it's more along the lines of the older Toyota RAV-4 or a small Ford Escape - definitely not made for offroad jaunts, although better than 95% of its competition.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 15, 2008 03:32
|
|
|
235/75/R15 measured out to about 29.3" on my XJ.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2008 23:29
|
|
|
ethanol posted:Please tell me if this is normal: my gas gauge reads 3/4 a tank and I've only gone 20 miles since my last fillup...
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2008 04:38
|
|
|
Atticus_1354 posted:This is an old Warn advertisement. Photoshopped with a razor blade in a dark room. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Sep 10, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2008 18:51
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:It is the premium Up-Country edition so it has nice captain's chairs with nice material and arms rests and junk. PO took his aftermarket head unit so I will have to replace it with a cheap one from Wal-Mart or something. And yeah, fiberglass hatches were the norm until the '97 refresh.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 19, 2008 08:46
|
|
|
Say what you want, but a 4.0L XJ will get up and go for what it is. Can't say the same for my 4.0L ZJ (42RE), though.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2008 00:50
|
|
|
jonathan posted:Thats twice I've heard that now. I will look for a 99, as they got the horsepower boost in 99, but still have the D30 high pinion.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 6, 2009 01:52
|
|
|
leica posted:Anyone do any significant towing with their XJ? I'm planning on buying a pop up camper and taking road trips, so the Jeep would be fully loaded with two adults, one child and all the gear associated with camping and probably a paddle board strapped to the roof, in addition to a medium sized pop up. Think a stock XJ would handle this ok or would it be a good idea for some mods to help it out? In 1996, the radiator hoses on my grandparents' 34' motorhome (~17k lb) crapped the bed going up Monarch Pass - something like a 6% grade. As it was towing a then-new XJ, my 90-year-old grandfather pushed that poo poo up a couple miles to the next pulloff.  Didn't overheat, somehow.
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 08:34 on Apr 2, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2009 08:31
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:Somebody school me on the differences between SE, Sport, Classic, Limited. A link will work, I've found a couple that list the differences, but (specifically for 97+), are there any big advantages/drawbacks to one over the other. All I really need are power windows, AT, power locks. I'd prefer fabric seats as I really like the rugged fabric in the Cherokees. Sport: Carpet, cloth seats, etc. '97-'98 had black plastic trim (door trim, fender flares, fascia/grill, license plate bezel, black bumpers. '99+ made all body color apart from the door trim. I'm inclined to say that the 4.0L was standard on '97+, but it definitely was for '01. On this and higher models, 242 (Selec-Trac) was optional, as was ABS (which used the Dana 35 rear instead of the 8.25). Probably 95% are 4.0L/AW4/231/8.25, and the Sport made up probably 75% of production for '97+. Classic: I think this ran '97-'98 and was a carryover from '95-'96 - basically just an intermediary appearance package between Sport and Limited that used the body-color exterior trim of the Limited. Fabric seats standard, leather optional. 4.0L standard. Limited: All trim aside from door handles was body-color. Power windows standard, power leather seats, fake-rear end wood trim, etc. 4.0L standard. A good percentage are 4.0L/AW4/242 with ABS/D35. So if you're looking for a 4.0L, automatic, part-time 4WD model, you're fine with any of them. Any model higher than the SE is just an appearance package with more standard/available niceties; there isn't a fundamental mechanical difference involved. That said, there ARE some weird-rear end hybrids out there. Cherokee production was a little odd - I've got a non-police-package '01 that ended up with PP wiring and alternator (thanks, last week of production), and the '97 models had quite a few oddballs due to the freshening and abundance of parts. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 16:37 on May 2, 2009 |
|
#
¿
May 2, 2009 16:34
|
|
|
I never thought I'd say this, but I'm becoming loving sick of my '01 (edit: XJ, durr). The two wall-of-text issues that are irritating me: 1) Tire wear (BFG AT KO, 235/75R15, 41k miles). The tread on the passenger side has suddenly accelerated wear as it goes to the outside edge (as if it has far too much positive camber, but that's obviously impossible), but the driver's side is wearing perfectly evenly (and has much less wear overall). The driver's side is probably at 75% tread with the passenger side at 30-40% max on the outside, particularly bad in front. It doesn't pull whatsoever. They were balanced and rotated last week, though I suspect Sam's (free) went front-rear (I'll go side-side when I get a chance). Aside from a slightly out-of-round wheel, all was normal. The only explanation I can think of would be driving behavior, but I don't corner it like an Elan (and even if I did, all ramps around here are clockwise). Stumped. Usually keep them at 38PSI with perfectly even wear up until now. 2) Left front speaker (trusty old Pioneer) cut out due to wiring. It used to cut out if I opened the door more than 5° or so, and recently wouldn't operate unless my door was open. Now it's gone completely. Looking at the godawful chassis wiring loom, it looks as if I'm better off cutting the old wire and running a new one up to my deck ('04 Pioneer DEH-4600MP). How far back in the dash is this loom? (I ripped it all out for a blower motor seal last January, but I don't remember...) And somewhat related to #1 - I'm looking at going with a 2" lift on this one using OME components (coils, leaves, shocks with JKS swaybar discos) and 30x9.15R15 BFG ATs, so I'd like to get tire wear in check before dropping the money for new ones. I know that some '00/01s are prone to driveline vibes due to the low-pinion D30, but does anyone here have any personal experience with this? I've done it with an HP D30, but that's not really feasible at the moment. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 03:39 on Aug 24, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Aug 24, 2009 03:20
|
|
|
I think I've posted about this in the past, but I'm pretty much at the end of my rope. Any advice on either front would be appreciated: 1) I'm running a Hella H4 setup and the factory wiring harness in my XJ is gradually becoming worse and worse. If I try to make my own harness via either of the good guides out there, my Jeep will burn to the ground due to incompetence on my part. What exists in the way of a plug-and-play harness? I've seen and heard of an ARB one, but whether or not it actually exists is debatable since ARB does not list it. 2) My driving lights (Hella H3) don't work. Long story short, they were wired through the relay to the factory headlight switch (I did not do this, I don't understand electricity, oh god how did this get here) until the switch failed and blew a chassis fuse. Replacing the switch has resulted in the same, so I've been without them for three years. How do I wire these motherfuckers, preferably in the simplest way possible? Any answer that combines the two questions with maximum simplicity and fire-proofness would be fantastic beyond belief.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 10, 2009 02:20
|
|
|
For what it's worth, he does describe is as having the mystical unicorn 4.3L. Could be a typo, but isn't a good sign in terms of PO's caretaking... with as many XJs as there are, you could probably find a newer/nicer one for a comparable price.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2009 04:13
|
|
|
Probable brake issue (I hope) in an '01 XJ. The southeast is still largely flooded, and I hit about 10" of water too drat fast yesterday. Ever since, I get a bad vibration from what feel like the front left brake when below 25MPH or so, worsening as it decelerates. I'm tempted to say that the frequency is high enough at speed that it's unnoticeable, leading me to believe that isn't not a warped rotor. It doesn't pull at all. I've done ~140 miles of highway driving in the meantime. Am I looking at a brake issue here, or something worse (please no water ingested elsewhere)? And on that note, which are the AI-endorsed Jeep pads/rotor - Napa Gold or somesuch?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 27, 2009 22:11
|
|
|
fordham posted:Hawk LTS are the best I've come across. I put them on my 00 XJ and it stops much better towing my boat now. The water-ingestion fear was nothing more than paranoia. I relocated the diff vent lines and such a few years back, but the splashguard is held in place using zip-ties - a Class III front hitch interfered with the stock ones. My fear was a wheel bearing grinding under lateral load more than anything else, considering that braking hard never produced a pull.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2009 23:44
|
|
|
Doc Spratley posted:If that is the case, I would probably lean towards the 8 if I went for a zj, just wanted to know if anyone else has first hand experience with mpg numbers on xj6 vs zj6 and 4l vs 5.2l zjs?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2009 12:41
|
|
|
Cheap Bourbon posted:Its not a bad deal, its just an OK deal. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the rubi package give locking rear diffies and locking xfer case?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2010 03:04
|
|
|
2001 XJ lighting problem! I have Hella Vision Plus (55/60W H4) units on the OE wiring harness and Hella 550 driving lights (55W H3). However, the Hella driving lights have not worked for two-three years for reasons that I absolutely cannot loving figure out. I know nothing of electricity. It just blows chassis fuses following a couple years with no issues. Basically, I want to scrap and redo all relays/wiring to the driving lights while running lower-gage wire to the headlights, preferably without burning everything to the ground. If I run this ARB harness to the headlights, how should I best go about rewiring the driving lights assuming I only want them on with high-beams? OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Dec 31, 2010 |
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2010 09:34
|
|
|
Veins McGee posted:1999 Cherokee 4.0l, 5 sp, 120xxx mi, base model(so it was a pull knob for lights instead of a stalk)
|
|
#
¿
Feb 8, 2011 01:44
|
|
|
The #3 heatsoak is particularly annoying in Memphis summers, but the heatshield solves the problem in a matter of minutes. I'm using an ARB harness to power my Hella H4 lamps, and have a pair of Hella 530 H3 fog lights (driving lenses/reflector). I'd like to put some brighter bulbs in both since the harnesses can handle it. Are there any gold standards for either bulb type? As long as it's DOT-legal, will last a good while, and not melt the housing, I'm satisfied... not certain of whether I'd like to go with amber in the driving light or pair with the same model line used in the headlamp. So far I've been looking at PIAA Intense White in H3 and H4, though I'm not sure if the output is genuinely superior to a decent Hella bulb or if it's  .
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2011 18:13
|
|
|
Philip J Fry posted:00's and 01's are coil on plug. And the 4.0 runs best on basic Champion plug, part #4412 ($2-$3 per plug usually). No idea how long those coils last though, I've always had distributor systems.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2011 08:38
|
|
|
Okay, suspension problem here. Here's another '01 XJ. Just installed a 2.5" OME/DPG Hybrid kit, as shown here but with Nitrocharger Sport shocks, OME steering stabilizer, and JKS HD tierod. The problem is that the whole front end feels as though it bottoms out hard going over something like a speedbump at more than a walking pace. With ~5.5" of static uptravel and a ~3" bump, this shouldn't be the case. Feels like I have almost no uptravel before it bottoms out. I've disconnected the swaybar to eliminate it as a source of contact, but there's no difference. Also no change between having 2" of bumpstops installed versus none. I've double-checked the part numbers on shocks and coils, all of which are correct. I've re-checked all fastener torques. Track is out by roughly half an inch, but I'll take care of that tomorrow (JKS adjustable trackbar, woo) and I can't imagine that it's enough misalignment to cause the shocks to bind... motor/trans/tx mounts are intact, though those wouldn't explain the seemingly-negligible uptravel regardless. I'm almost at the point of attacking speedbumps sans shocks to see if both are at fault. What on earth am I missing here? I'm going to get in touch with DPG again during business hours Monday (can't say enough about his customer support), but is there anything else I should check in the meantime? 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2011 02:35
|
|
|
So I'm an idiot who removed his door panels to apply some sound deadening and managed to catch the pull rod on his pants... thereby breaking the plastic cantilever inside the door. Time to bust out the JB Weld or go to the junkyard to find a '97+ XJ. On another note, my $650 find to be picked up this weekend:  2.5L/AX4/2WD '88 MJ. No AC, power nothing, and "the steering needs a little work". Worst decision in quite a while. I saved my XJ's stock coils, leaves, shocks, trackbar, and tierod when I Old Man Emu'd and JKS'd it all to hell, so hopefully I can replace the front-end-compatible parts... OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 01:58 on Feb 10, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Feb 10, 2012 01:55
|
|
|
OneOverZero posted:On another note, my $650 find to be picked up this weekend: 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2012 06:53
|
|
|
OneOverZero posted:2.5L/AX4/2WD '88 MJ. No AC, power nothing, and "the steering needs a little work". Worst decision in quite a while. I saved my XJ's stock coils, leaves, shocks, trackbar, and tierod when I Old Man Emu'd and JKS'd it all to hell, so hopefully I can replace the front-end-compatible parts... The bad: it has a top-end knock when hot (I'm guessing stuck lifter rather than rod knock, based on the sound and behavior) and the AX15 doesn't like to downshift after highway stints (probably got gear oil rather than 10W30 after the clutch was changed). No grinding, just difficult to row through. I won't be able to play with it until next weekend, so who knows.     
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2012 05:16
|
|
|
Yeah, the prospect of the trans being filled with the wrong GL5 is pretty nerve-wracking. I've just budgeted on the assumption that I'll be rebuilding the sucker - looks like ~$270 for seals/gaskets/synchros is about as good as I can do. 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2012 07:46
|
|
|
Speaking of unspeakable Renix horrors, I drove home my aforementioned prize. 330 miles, 15-17psi max oil pressure, and probably one collapsed lifter (gee, I wonder why). Sounds like a skeleton masturbating in a metal file cabinet, to steal a simile from someone way back when. Definitely getting lifters and pushrods this weekend, but I'm more inclined to go with a full '91-'99 top-end swap if I can find intact head, fuel rail, cam, PS pump mount, etc at a yard (besides, I somehow doubt I'll find a clean '87-'90 cam). Doesn't appear to have made any metal yet, but I'm assuming that the cam is scrubbed all to hell and the closest yard is over an hour away. Not really sure how I'm going to approach this, especially with the Renix crap, but I have a box of every sensor/controller/computer specific to it. The trans issue just seems to be the clutch not fully disengaging, so I'm going to throw new lines at it and see if it needs adjustment from there. 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 20, 2012 01:26
|
|
|
A month's progress!  Welded/POR15'd the floors, installed a tilt column with a functional tumbler, found a clean headliner, scrubbed the interior, fixed the signals/brake lights, and stripped a '90 XJ Limited of all the exterior and interior foibles that made it so campy. (The headlight, key-in, and seatbelt buzzers make a wicked beat frequency when triggered together.) Now I just want a replacement OE (or at least low-key) single-DIN radio so I can listen to lovely music throughout the moon's entire cycle. But the part I'm not looking forward to:  '94 HO / AX15, both with ~386k. The trans will be used to retrofit an external slave onto a friend's '90 MJ, but I'm going to rebuild the HO and either port-match the Renix intake or machine an adapter to put the Renix TB on the HO intake. Hmm. Definitely not up to doing the full electrical swap necessary for the HO ECU.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2012 01:30
|
|
|
Tigertron posted:I am looking to purchase my first truck and I am pretty adamant on having an MJ. I am not in any rush to go out and buy this first deal I come across but I do have a couple questions so that I don't pass up an obviously good deal. It was my intention to hold out and find a v6 equipped with the AX15 tranny but these are proving to be rarer than I expected. Is there any anecdotal advise in favor for or against this engine? 1) You're ideally looking for the 4.0L AMC I6 ('87+), not the 2.8L GM V6 ('84-'86 XJ, '86 MJ). I mean, I suppose one could look for the V6, but it's everything that was wrong with '80s GM. 2) The AX15 replaced the Peugeot BA/10-5 somewhere in the mid-'89 era. So ultimately, if you're looking for an 4.0L/AX15, you're essentially narrowed to '90-'92, ideally '91/'92 since it lost the Renix controls and gained some Chrysler engine massaging. Buy that thing and keep it safe from the majority of $3k-truck-seekers. edit: why is it not closer to me I want more
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2012 01:39
|
|
|
Tigertron posted:If it makes you feel any better I got in contact with the owner today and he has agreed to hang on to it until Friday when I can get my dad to come get the truck with me. In the mean time he is going to get the truck smogged for title transfer and touch up the paint. He did sell the snugtop with the intention of buying a bed liner that he never found but all in all it is as how it's described. Keep us posted.
|
|
#
¿
May 14, 2012 01:57
|
|
|
rally posted:I noticed today when I went past a speed sign that indicated my speedometer is high by like 4 or 5mph at 40mph. It originally had 215/75/r15 tires, and now has 235/75/r15 tires...which makes no sense. Shouldn't I be going faster than the speedometer says if the gear was never changed and I'm running larger than stock tires?
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2012 05:27
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 12:15 |
|
|
Pulled an Aisin AX15 off the back of a junked '94 XJ 4.0L with 396k on the clock. Uhhhhhh. Engine has great compression (throwing it in my Comanche) and trans is otherwise in fantastic shape, so I'm guessing someone wasn't very good at clutch replacements (though the clutch itself shows some wear). I bet the damage to the pliers is somehow related to the reason the nice Jeep was sent to LKQ.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2012 05:42
|
|