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Steiler Drep posted:So I'm real close into buying a 4.0L head for my '90YJ 4.2L engine. People state it gives you a 30-40 HP increase in power to the meager 112HP the 258 I6 has, but I'm having pre-buyer's remorse right now. The 4.0L has ~190HP, and I feel to properly get around in my country, where there's loads of hills everywhere, I need something around 180HP for a car this size and with no aerodynamics to speak of. Really I don't like 2fast2furious poo poo at all, but it's also horrible to go up a hill at 25MPH at a 55MPH limit zone, going in 3rd gear ~1800RPM, where I can even go higher than the limit with my mom's Mitsubishi in 5th gear. I wouldn't mind going at 40MPH, just something not extremely slow. I've got a 2000 TJ with the 4.0 and it is a dog going up hills at highway speeds too. You'll still have to downshift to maintain speed. A gearing change would help, especially if you're running larger tires.
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| # ¿ Apr 11, 2010 01:11 |
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| # ¿ May 23, 2013 23:10 |
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Cablekid posted:Hey goons, first time poster in this thread. I've been looking at a few vehicles to pick up for myself and today I was floored when I found a 2010 Wrangler Islander at the local Jeep dealership. It's Surf Blue and looks amazing in the sun. Transmission choice comes down to preference. I wouldn't consider either superior as they both have benefits. Rough terrain will be a bit easier in an auto since you won't get such bad lurching when your foot bounces on the gas pedal; either way, you'll want a hand throttle for driving over uneven terrain so you can avoid unexpected throttle changes. If you're slipping your clutch like a bitch, use a lower gear or put the transfer case in low; you shouldn't be going fast in that kind of situation anyway.
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2010 05:11 |
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PBCrunch posted:Also, do all solid axle Jeeps steer with no precision and autonomously decide where they want to go when they hit bumps? Lifting Jeeps reduces the caster angle (which gives the return to center action). When you get adjustable control arms to counteract the change in caster and pinion angles that occurs with lifts, people tend to favor getting the pinion angle back in line as having that out will thrash your drivetrain. Bone stock Jeeps will steer just fine, and lifting doesn't gently caress up the precision, they just start to wander. Edit: caster != camber EightBit fucked around with this message at May 6, 2010 around 15:33 |
| # ¿ May 6, 2010 00:13 |
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murphle posted:Caster Aw poo poo how'd I screw that up so bad?
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| # ¿ May 6, 2010 15:33 |
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Tipme posted:What do I need to know about buying hard tops? I heard one kind of top can fit many but I think only the year matters? Not sure. I got a 2002 Sahara wrangler and I found this dude with a couple just lying around. Going to bring it over tomorrow to see if it fits since he doesn't know much either. We're just a bunch of uneducated wrangler owners drat. If your Jeep didn't come wired for a hardtop, you'll need to buy the correct wiring harness for the top; otherwise, the rear wiper and defroster are useless.
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| # ¿ Jun 13, 2010 18:29 |
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VH4Ever posted:So I have a WJ, and recently I had an oil change dude tell me that my rear mail seal is juuuuust beginning to seep out just a tiny bit of oil. It wasn't enough to actualy "drip" and my engine still was 100% full of oil after about 4000 miles so it's in its infancy now. I have a 4.0 as well, with the same slight rear seal leak. I have yet to replace mine because of  , but my understanding is that the rear seal is a two-piece seal that you can change just by removing the oil pan. I even found a guide with some pictures: http://www.jeepin.com/features/rearmain/
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| # ¿ Jun 13, 2010 23:14 |
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Braincloud posted:Sure that's a Rubicon? It's got the Sahara running boards and fenders. Well, he said fake, and it does not seem to have the Rubicon tag on the hood.
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| # ¿ Jun 21, 2010 22:48 |
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I've been meaning to ask, but what precautions for water crossings do you need to make, other than a snorkel? Specifically on a 2000 TJ, are there electrical components that will gently caress off if you get them seriously wet? Are there breather tubes or ports from the drivetrain components that need to be extended?
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| # ¿ Jul 15, 2010 02:35 |
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meecrob posted:I got a girl jeep too. Why wait until it is paid for? A lift and knobbier tires will slap the girl-jeep look right off.
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| # ¿ Aug 14, 2010 00:03 |
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Do XJ's have the same caster problem when you lift them that TJ's get? Also, don't XJ's have a solid front axle, which means all that is adjustable is the toe-in and drag link length? Is he wasting money on adjustments he can make in the driveway? Short of buying new parts, anyway.
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| # ¿ Sep 10, 2010 05:28 |
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What exactly is holding it together if it can be stripped that quickly?
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| # ¿ Sep 10, 2010 22:08 |
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Faerunner posted:$8500 for a 2000 Wrangler Sahara with a hard and soft top. Wish I had the cash to pick it up, that'd be fun. http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/1945608109.html New radiator, water pump, battery. This Jeep's been through hell, abort.
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| # ¿ Sep 20, 2010 04:06 |
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Faerunner posted:Three common failure points/potential necessary maintenance items? Also... batteries lasting ten years? Point me to these mystical devices. Having to replace a radiator means that the cooling system didn't get flushed regularly and will continue to cause problems. Battery, sure, they don't last forever. Water pump replaced too? Unless they're paranoid about poo poo failing together I suspect that they never changed the coolant or ran it with too much water and the pump rusted out.
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| # ¿ Sep 20, 2010 05:29 |
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Bojanglesworth posted:I have a quick question for you guys. My jeep has a 3.5" lift on it already, and I have purchased 2" spacers/shackles so I can make it a bit higher. I know there are a few things I need to do get before I lift it any higher, but what would I nee to get to do it the right way? I'm guessing YJ from the mention of shackles. If you don't have a drop pitman arm for your steering box, you'll need one.
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| # ¿ Sep 27, 2010 02:48 |
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Steiler Drep posted:We get CRD Jeeps (yes, even Liberties and GCs) here in Costa Rica. Pitty they run like exotic cars though, they cheapest Wrangler/Liberty you can get is for 35k, a Rubi running for 56k. Variable Geometry Turbos are beautiful things, meaning these jeeps get ~178hp as well as ~300ft/lb. Amazing machines, but it's sad how incredibly expensive they are. My '90 4.2L Yj cost me $7000, and that's cheap. Makes you wonder why we are poor and have to pay exceedingly high prices for good cars (your Hyundais are cheap as heck here, but break down every other day). They're not our Hyundais, they're Korea's. They still break down all the time here though.
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| # ¿ Oct 30, 2010 19:55 |
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Steiler Drep posted:Haha yeah I was meaning "your everyday Hyundais", I know they're Korean. "But its all covered by the warranty  "I don't know about some people, but I buy a car so that I can drive it, not to have it spend one month of every year in a shop.
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| # ¿ Oct 31, 2010 18:01 |
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I think the tires look a couple inches too small for the lift, but I'm a fan of low-center-of-gravity builds (for reference, I have 33" tires with just a 2" budget boost).
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| # ¿ Nov 18, 2010 06:02 |
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Braincloud posted:I would gladly remove the Rubicon sticker from my JK and replace it with STOMPER. I loved those things growing up! I wish I had a rubicon sticker to replace with a stomper sticker. Perhaps I'll just have to make that the final piece of my Jeep. If I ever get around to having the money.
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| # ¿ Nov 19, 2010 04:16 |
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There's a pretty good chance that its 2 wheel drive, seeing that its the base model long wheel base JK  .
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| # ¿ Nov 20, 2010 00:10 |
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I'm pissed that Wranglers went so long before bloating (width and length)-wise and then bam! they're almost as big as fullsize pickups in one revision. Wranglers were just the right size to not feel like a toy but still get into poo poo that trucks and bigger vehicles like Hummers are just too long or wide to not get hung up.
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| # ¿ Nov 20, 2010 03:57 |
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My 2000 Wrangler 4.0 also has high oil pressure unless its idling and fully up to temperature after some driving. I've been too broke to really dig into it and its not off the gauge high, just right around 60 psi by 2000 rpm.
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| # ¿ Nov 25, 2010 05:33 |
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quietthings posted:Thanks very much! That all helps quite a bit. Another question, the oil leaks, is that something that starts showing up around a certain mileage point (90K, 100K etc.) or is it just a general Jeep issue? Your Jeep knows when it needs to oil the chassis to slow down the rusting.
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| # ¿ Dec 26, 2010 02:09 |
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brickswereshat posted:I guess I've just joined the community of Jeep owners. I bought a 1996 Cherokee Sport, tan/gold with 66,310 miles on it. It has some cosmetic flaws, and it's obviously a 15 year old vehicle, but the guy had paperwork for every oil change, every repair, every maintenance item. Aside from the "old car" smell, it was a perfect way to get rid of $2200. I don't plan to do much to try to break it, as it's now my daily driver, as well as sole source of transportation. Anything I need to be on top of from the experienced Jeep gurus here? Just make sure that when you go to put a lift on it, you don't do "stages". Figure out how large you want your tires to be and plan accordingly. Don't look at me like you won't lift it 
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| # ¿ Jan 9, 2011 22:36 |
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The only way you're going to 100% eliminate death wobble is to systematically check every ball joint and bushing on the front end. Shouldn't be too expensive, but its a ballbusting job to take that all apart.
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| # ¿ Feb 10, 2011 03:19 |
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Have any goons put the Yella Terra roller rockers in their 4.0?
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| # ¿ Feb 14, 2011 00:52 |
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My 2000 TJ 4.0 did a strange thing today that I haven't been able to repeat: I started it up after I stopped at the house to shop for a trip I'm taking soon. When it started, it felt like half of the cylinders were not firing for a few seconds when it started. Over the next few seconds more of the cylinders started firing until all was normal. No CEL or rough running after that. ?
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| # ¿ Feb 16, 2011 04:55 |
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incredibull posted:You probably have the cyl #3 heat soak issue. Basically the injector for #3 is in a bad spot so far as thermal conditions are concerned. After hot shutoff, fuel in the injector can vaporize and temporarily disrupt fuel flow to cyl #3. I don't know if you can still get the kit, but it's basically a fiberglass/aluminum shroud that surrounds the injectors and insulates them from the intake/exhaust. Sounds like that may be my issue. Its already starting to get warm here in South Texas, and I can't find non-ethanol fuel anywhere.
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| # ¿ Feb 17, 2011 00:44 |
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ornery owl posted:I use 10W-30 of whatever name brand happens to be on sale. I use 5 quarts of oil and 1 quart of that Lucas oil stabilizer stuff. Not sure if that Lucas stuff does anything preventative but it helped quiet down my valve ticking. Lucas oil stabilizer is snake oil at best, and makes your oil foamy (and thinner due to small air bubbles!) most likely.
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| # ¿ Mar 15, 2011 22:33 |
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Roneth posted:Finally, how concerned should I be about the cracking 0331 head problem that happens with some of the 00 and 01's? Well, see if its a 0331 head, should be visible on the front driver's side of the head, just by the valve cover lip.
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| # ¿ Apr 1, 2011 02:05 |
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Roneth posted:It is   I've got one too. No obvious issues yet like milky oil or missing coolant. I haven't been sending my oil off for testing to see if there are trace amounts of coolant though.Oh well, if something big fails it just gives me a good excuse to put a 4.7 stroker in it 
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| # ¿ Apr 2, 2011 15:26 |
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Sounds more like lack of compression than dirty fuel injectors. Autozone and Oreilly's loan compression testers out with just a deposit. You can also test for O2 sensor problems by disconnecting the sensor and seeing if it behaves differently; you'd probably have a code if the sensor were broken, though.
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| # ¿ Apr 4, 2011 22:36 |
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Scrubed posted:It has a new steering stabilizer on it. Lots of people have the frame mounting hole for the track bar get worn in an oval shape. If this has happened to you, you will need to have the hole drilled out and repaired. Your steering stabilizer has nothing to do with death wobble, but just about every other joint on the front end does. Start with the tie-rod ends and drag link ends and work your way out from there looking for worn or loose joints.
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| # ¿ Apr 12, 2011 22:22 |
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Got my jeep all gutted and ready for a new clutch. Hung up on the loving inverted torx bolts on the top of the transmission  . Clutch will be in today for sure though.
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| # ¿ May 7, 2011 19:40 |
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Clutch is in. Apparently the head gasket started going in the past few days. The side of the engine under the intake/exhaust manifolds has little trails of oil and coolant running down the side. No cross contamination apparently, just losing all its fluids right there.
EightBit fucked around with this message at May 8, 2011 around 23:14 |
| # ¿ May 8, 2011 23:11 |
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Well, looks like the 0331 curse has caught up to me. Got the head off, cracked right between the #3 & #4 cylinders. Is $400 a decent price to get a local machine shop to build a remanufactured head, or is that too much, or should I be looking for a totally new head? Pics coming later when I get home from work. EightBit fucked around with this message at May 10, 2011 around 20:06 |
| # ¿ May 10, 2011 19:48 |
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 Casting #0331 The junkyards down here in San Antonio don't have any Jeeps with heads left (wonder why ), so I had to buy a reman unit with some godawful markup. Oh well, got new lifters in as part of the mess, and now most of the tapping noise is gone.Quick question: the head I put on had an extra hole tapped into the intake way in the back, almost under the valve cover gasket. What the hell was that used for? There are already good access points for vacuum everywhere, and most of the control is electronic.
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| # ¿ May 17, 2011 16:55 |
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Your coolant looks like chocolate milk? Why are you still loving around? Pull the head already. You will need some loc-tite for one of the head bolts per the FSM so be sure you get that too. May as well throw in new lifters while the head is off, only $50 for a set of 12.
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| # ¿ May 20, 2011 18:01 |
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You can't do the lifters without pulling the head (that's a 4.0, right?). I think your year has a one-piece exhaust manifold that is prone to cracking in the middle, check for that. There are plenty of aftermarket manifolds that will fit and have a flexible middle section to prevent cracking. Also check the bolts going to the down-pipe, etc. I just got a new head and lifters in my 4.0 and it still has a mysterious tick, though not as loud. Edit: beaten
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| # ¿ May 22, 2011 02:08 |
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HARDCORE!!! Was that hole only 7 meters deep?
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| # ¿ May 23, 2011 00:03 |
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| # ¿ May 23, 2013 23:10 |
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InterceptorV8 posted:But who makes a 4.7 crate for added ease of milkshakes? Not quite a 4.7 but definitely a crate engine: http://www.golenengineservice.com/engines/jeep/ Edit: or: http://high-performance-engines.com...y_Code=Chrysler EightBit fucked around with this message at May 24, 2011 around 03:14 |
| # ¿ May 24, 2011 03:11 |
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