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th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
AI, I have a problem. I want a Jeep. I used to have an MJ. I traded it in because the Peugeot transmission was shot and I wanted a car. This was 2004. I want another an XJ now, but am not sure if this seems like a good deal or not: http://lafayette.craigslist.org/cto/2978897369.html

I have not contacted the seller of the vehicle yet as he is easily 90 minutes away from me, but it looks like it is what I want. A 99 4x4 manual Cherokee 4 door in relatively good shape. I will be parting with my Explorer as it has transmission problems and daily driving a DSM is not the best of ideas.

What should I do?

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th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.




It's a 1999 Cherokee. I picked it up Friday. I'm loving it so far. Door locks are a little sketchy and the driver's seat has some wear. I am the second owner and loving it.

Edit: Fixed Images.

th vwls hv scpd fucked around with this message at 02:05 on Apr 30, 2012

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

InitialDave posted:

You'd be better off with imgur if you want to show it to us.

Thanks, I was trying to use Drive to show these off. Next time I will just use imgur.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

rally posted:

Isn't this only the case if you are locked in the differential? 4wd locks the front and rear wheels to the same speed, not the inner and outer wheels. Or am I wrong here?

I have a stock Dana 30 and it feels like it locks both sides. I just did a quick test of cutting the wheel all the way to one side and engaging 4wd. You can feel it.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

Do Not Fear Jazz posted:

I mean I'm sure you COULD, or run them through the frame.

This is what they look like:



If you still have these, I am interested in them.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

PBCrunch posted:

I have a 1999 Cherokee Sport 4.0L 4x4 auto with something like 280k miles. We were driving it to my wife's parents' house this morning and all of a sudden the CHECK GAUGES light came on and the oil pressure gauge went to zero. Up until this point the truck has always had very good strong oil pressure.

We were only a block away from their house so I drove it there. The engine did not explode. I checked the oil level when we got there and the oil level was normal. I started the Jeep back up and the oil pressure gauge still said zero. I revved the engine a little bit and the pressure gauge moved a tiny little bit.

What are the chances that the sending unit is bad vs. actually having no oil pressure? Is there something I can do (quickly) in a freezing cold driveway to see if there is oil pressure?

I had this exact same problem develop in the last week. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit and now have a functional gauge. I'm glad it wasn't something more sinister.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
So what are the better forums to read up on the XJ? I'm mostly looking at maintenance work and long term a 3" lift for some very lift offroad use. Ideally I would like to use my Cherokee to do primitive camping out of.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
Maybe I will give JF some more time then. I've been unimpressed in the Cherokee sub forum, but I guess I'm just used to the content here moving so fast from time to time. I haven't looked at cherokeeforum and just made an account on naxja.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I'll definitely keep that in mind. I'll probably read through some more build threads on JF that aren't the budget builds and go through the NAXJA technical forums.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
Is there a tool similar to CAPS/ASA for a Jeep? CAPS/ASA being a parts lookup tool.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
When it quits raining here I am going to try and find a leak in my 99 XJ. My driver side floor is soaked. I thought I had it fixed when I replaced the door gasket, but I was wrong. I could see water on the hood release catch. Maybe it is the windshield gasket. Any ideas on how to test?

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

kastein posted:

This works great. Maybe blow a light coating of baby powder all along the seal first to make spotting it easier.

If it was passenger side, I would guess the HVAC airbox intake seal where it goes through the firewall, but being on the driver side I would guess a windshield adhesive leak or a door leak. If you look up along the edge of the door, can you see light between the door and the gasket? If you can, you can either adjust the door (if the rest of the panels line up perfectly, this isn't something I'd recommend) or open the door, roll the window down, put your knee on the arm rest and lightly yank the bowed-out section of the window frame toward you. Takes maybe 30 seconds and seals most XJ upper-door-frame gasket leaks. If you do it at a stop light, make sure to check your rearview right after doing this, I've gotten some pretty funny reactions.

e: as far as parts catalog lookups and such, check xjjeeps.com for a full set of factory parts catalogs. If you need help looking stuff up, drop me a line or post up here, most parts are in fairly well organized tables but some are in pretty illogical sections and are hard to find.

When I replaced the door gaskets I used the TeamCherokee gaskets that are not a direct fit. I did have to adjust the door striket out as the gasket significantly thicker. The door gasket appeared to be dry. The passenger side is totally dry. When I replaced the evaporator, I replaced the gaskets where the a/c lines enter the cab and around the blower motor. I will definitely use baby powder when I try hosing the door down with water. I'm almost wondering if there is a drain in the cowl on the driver side or something since I could see the water on the hood latch. When I get a chance to try this, I will post back.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I haven't had a chance to check my truck for leaks yet. I hope to have time for that tomorrow. I think I'm going to pull the A-pillar trim when we do this to see if the windshield is leaking.

In other news, my hitch has been stuck in the receiver since the day I purchased my XJ in April of 2012. I got tired of hitting my shin walking around my truck taking trash out. So I pulled the receiver off today. I sheared 6 of 8 bolts holding it up. The 2 that didn't shear show signs of being way overtorqued when the receiver was installed. Then, I had the fun of heating the receiver up with a torch until it was slightly red and beating the hitch out with a maul. Tomorrow I would like to try and get everything cleaned up and painted for reinstallation later this month.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

Darchangel posted:

Edit: no comments on the 2.5L sticker? I thought it was funny, but I'm easy to amuse...

I snickered when I saw it. I remember my 2.5L Comanche being painfully slow. I miss that truck and wish I never got rid of it. Even though it was only 2WD I loved driving it as a first vehicle.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
^^8. I'd love to have a postal Jeep one day and a stroker sounds pretty cool. I might be an idiot though and listen to one of the more veteran Jeep guys weigh in.

Darchangel posted:

Pffff, my daily before I bought the Cherokee was an FCC RX-7 NA, all 160-ish HP and 0 torque of it. Before that it was a '79 RX-7. 100 screaming HP, and not a whole lot lighter than the Jeep, I think. I seem to recall reading that the Cherokee is remarkably light.
I'm getting 19-20 MPG in the Jeep, and it goes well enough, so I can live with it. If the engine pops, though, it's getting a 5.3 LSx truck motor.
Thing managed to haul about 800 pounds of potting soil and bark the other day without complaining too much. Wasn't even on the bump stops! I'm really starting to like the little bugger.

e: the 5-speed makes the 4-banger more tolerable, too, I think.

That is definitely better mileage than what I got. I think in town was 16-17 and straight highway was 21. 70mph had me screaming at ~3100rpms. So much stupid happened in that truck I'm surprised I didn't kill myself. Screaming along gravel roads, driving faster than I should down dirt roads, plowing through fields after rain. I was young, dumb and invincible.

I always wanted to do a 4.0 swap with Clifford cams and carb it, but no money and a Peugeot transmission that was eating itself meant it was nothing more than a dream.

th vwls hv scpd fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Apr 5, 2013

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
So my electric fan has died on my 99. Should I be looking for an aftermarket replacement or should I hit up the local Pull A Part and just grab something there?

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

EightBit posted:

Have you verified that is indeed the fan and not the resistor pack or one of the knobs? TJ's have Chrysler electrics; the current for the fan passes through the knobs and has a tendency to melt them when the brushes need servicing and pull too much current.

Yes. The bearings in the fan motor are squealing when it starts to spin up. If you spin it by hand, you can feel a grittiness/grabbiness to the motor. This is an XJ if that makes any difference.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
So I'm having a sporadic problem with my brakes on my 99 XJ. Ocaissionally I will barely touch the brakes and lock up one of the front wheels. If I back off immediately, the wheel unlocks and I can brake normally again. I'm not able to consistently repeat this problem and am not terribly sure where to look. I replaced both calipers some months back when I replaced the rotors and pads. I think it has done this the different times, but it is quite embarrassing as it sounds like I am staking the breaks when in actuality I am depressing the pedal less than 1/4".

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

kastein posted:

ABS or non ABS vehicle?

Non ABS.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

kastein posted:

Lemons stuff

They won $600 in nickels. I have a friend who drives on that team. They were pretty pleased.

Edit:grammar

th vwls hv scpd fucked around with this message at 18:03 on May 6, 2013

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

fps_bill posted:

Yea that's called the swaybar link. No you're not wrecking your swaybar driving with a broken link. 4 nuts(3 in your case) and you're done.

e: you might need some smoke wrench to get them off. I've needed it every time I've had to replace them.

What is smoke wrench? Is that basically PB Blaster?

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

Darchangel posted:

Oxy-acetylene torch, AKA flame wrench.

Makes sense now. I've never heard it referred to as a smoke wrench before. I'm probably going to be in that situation soon. My mostly pristine 99 XJ spent quite some time in Virginia before making its way to Louisiana and has some rust underneath it.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

Astonishing Wang posted:

I need ideas for the top of the poles - does anyone know of something that would work to hold the tarp AND a guy-line/tensioning cord? I need something like this:

E: Actually, I should probably use a hook at the top so the tarp wont just blow off.
top:


When I used to go camping I just tied a bowline and tossed it over the pole. If the pole has a alight can't to it the know just sat over the grommet and didn't stress the tarp too much. It always seemed to work well for me.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I'm going to stick this here. It's my first attempt at welding something for my Cherokee. Actually, it's my first attempt at welding anything, ever. I thought this would be something fairly simple to do and would be a decent learning project.

I had a receiver on my XJ when I bought it. It had a weird (2 3/32") hitch in it. I was never able to pull the hitch out. I wound up just swapping the ball on it. I decided I wanted the ability to remove the receiver hitch because I kept hitting myself in the shin. Parking is tight at my apartment and the ball would stick out over the sidewalk. Getting the receiver off was a giant pain in the rear end. I broke four bolts on the passenger side and all three on the driver side. Once the receiver was out, I heated the receiver up with a torch and beat on it to get the hitch out. There was a lot of rust that was falling off. A lot of rust. I can hit the receiver with a 20oz hammer and leave dimples in the steel. I am not sticking this back on the XJ to tow with it.

This is the receiver I pulled off the XJ.



So I hit up the local steel yard and bought some stuff.



Using the receiver I pulled off, I took some measurements and cut some steel and laid it out.



First weld I ever laid down.



Second weld looks much better.



I did go back and grind down the bad spot in the first weld and redo it.



Ground both sides down.



Welded a plate over the top for strength.



All the way around now.



I cut the mounting ears off of the old receiver since they were pretty solid and hadn't lost their original thickness.



I neglected to get photos where I welded the bottom plate on the receiver where the chains will hook and the ears prior to painting it.



I did everything with some help from my uncle who is a better welder than I using his arc welder. This was done with 7014 rod. I had some fun doing this and hope to do more welding in the future.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

Audiologic posted:

Looks good! Now start making some bumpers and other awesome poo poo

Thanks! I'm pretty pleased with it.

I even got it installed today. The Chevy blue clashes with the paint, but I figure in a few months road grime will dull the color and it won't be so bad.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.


Oh Jeep. Alternator gave up the ghost on the ride to work this morning. I guess that is what has been making a little squeal in the morning when it was cold or really humid. It never did it long enough for me to figure out what was making noise. Probably just going to pick up a reman unit from O'Reilly's today.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
So my morning started off not very well. I'm driving to work and taking it easy. I'm not running late, traffic is light, roads are dry with no accidents on the route I take in to work this morning. I make a left hand at a red light, shift into second, shift into third, BANG! I bark tires and no resistance on the clutch pedal. I drive down the road a bit in third not really knowing what to expect and find a place to pull over. I have no fluids leaking on the slave cylinder that I saw. Master cylinder is still full of fluid. Slave is still snugly mounted to the transmission. I verified the clutch pedal is still attached to the master cylinder push rod. Still no resistance on clutch pedal.

So I finished driving to work with no clutch and have arranged to have a family member give me a hand towing my XJ home. I'm just really not looking forward to this right now. I'm kind of curious what I broke though. Anyway, I'm posting here to find out if there is a recommended clutch I should throw in the truck or any brands that I should stay away from right now. I'll see about hitting up NAXJA and looking for recommendations there, but would like the opinion of some people here as well. I do have the 4.0/AX15/4x4 in my XJ if that makes a difference.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
Sorry, I have a 99 XJ. I am in Baton Rouge so completely across the country. Clutch pedal feels weird. Basically like the only resistance on the pedal is from the return spring.

I haven't touched the assembly yet other than making sure it was not hanging under the truck. I do plan on inspecting everything while I'm in there. No reason not to. I had considered the clutch fork breaking or the pivot ball breaking, but it isn't something I've experienced first hand.

I will definitely take pictures of whatever failed though. Hopefully I will be able to tear into it on Wednesday as long as it isn't raining.

Kastein, thanks for the Sachs recommendation. I read on NAXJA that Sachs and LuK were great and OEM depending on the year of the vehicle, so I'll go with one of those two based on price/availability.

Thanks for the replies.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
Had to rewire this stupid trailer tonight in the parking lot since the lights have been giving me problems. I ran out of daylight where the trailer was stored and after getting half the lights to work moved it to where my Jeep was to finish up.



Slowly dragging it up the trailer is a pain in the butt by yourself. Thankfully I was able to power a cheap electric winch.



All loaded up.



I'm off Wednesday and hope to be able to tear into this thing and figure out what happened.

E: I can't tell if I'm breaking tables.

th vwls hv scpd fucked around with this message at 07:08 on Jan 21, 2014

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
It probably is a matter of perspective. My XJ has some issues, but it gets me to work and back. I love it. I'd say it has been extremely reliable over the last 2 years I've had it until my clutch fork bent and gave up the ghost. I would happily drive this anywhere in the US right now with no fear of it leaving me on the side of the road.

My other car is a DSM.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I just had my exhaust fixed and it's bumping something on startup and low idle. It either needs to go back or my mounts are toast since I did the clutch job.

Edit: I spell gud.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
So I need to replace the shifter bushings for my transfer case. The green bushing is rock hard and I am unable to get the shift linkage to lock in place. I want to say that I remember someone saying I shouldn't use an aftermarket bushing, but figured I would ask if this was ok:

http://bit.ly/1cHoeZB

or

http://bit.ly/OaPtQD

Which is the correct grommet? Should I just see if I can get it on Chrysler Parts Direct? Is there a better place to get it?

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I have a 99 XJ. Pretty sure I have the NP231 (CommandTrac) on the AX15. The bushing that I am having the issue with is the one on the transmission bracket. That looks like it will be a giant pain in the rear end to remove the bracket.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I should probably replace the two black bushings on the linkage as well I guess. Is the part number the same for them as well?

I can't think of anything else I need right now for my truck, so I might just go hit the local dealer for a $3 bushing than paying shipping on a $3 part.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I will keep that in mind when I stop by the dealer. The parts guy there has been pretty helpful when I request things by part number directly, but that has mostly been for my DSM. Thanks for the help kastein.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
Is that even on the Sockington scale?

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
I thought that was how Jeeps marked their spot.

If it were me, I would find some Gunk Gel Engine Degreaser and go to town on the motor. I prefer the gel because it seems thicker and tends to stay where it was sprayed longer. Then just check on it every few days and see if you can see where it is leaking.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.

wilfredmerriweathr posted:

Hey speaking of the CHMSL, I noticed mine wasn't working and upon closer inspection there simply isn't any wiring running to it at all... ideas? I just figured mine didn't come with the light and chrysler fitted the enclosure to every xj to save money, but I guess they have been required since the 80s? What happened to my wiring?

I wonder if someone used a 1994 or older wiring harness? The rest of my lighting works fine so I'm inclined to just leave it but now I actually know I'm breaking the law so THANKS A LOT KEN! (:cheers:)

I can also confirm how poor the wiring is in my 98: only rear speakers work, can only roll windows down from driver's side (unless the stars are aligned) and the auto locks work like 40% of the time on the driver's door and 5% of the time for the passenger. Oh and my new (reman) alternator is already exhibiting symptoms of a stuck brush again.

The window problem is pretty easy to fix. There is a solder joint that breaks and kills power to the rest of the switches. You just need to pull the door card off and fix the break to have the rest of the windows work.

th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
Speaking of brake lines, my front right brake line popped today. Looks like the grommet failed where it passes through the body and it rubbed a hole through it. I can't find my brake tubing bender so I grabbed one off Amazon. I already picked up some brake line since I know I have a bender somewhere.

Thankfully I was leaving a parking lot and turning onto a subdivision street and not the main highway when it let go. That sinking feeling you get when you mash the brakes and they hit the floor is not something I will ever forget.

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th vwls hv scpd
Jul 12, 2006

Developing Smarter Mechanics.
Since 1989.
To tighten up the terminal without replacing it, pull the bolt out of the terminal, take a hack saw and slowly cut down the middle where it pulls together. This will remove 1/16" of material and let you clamp down on the battery post.

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