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Motronic posted:Why would use use a pipe cutter for that? You still have to re-crown and deal with perfect squareness on the rifling. The 19" (greater than 18") is a dead giveaway that it's a shotgun thing. Probably with an unmodded stock, 19" was all he could cut it down to: https://www.atf.gov/firearms/qa/what-firearms-are-regulated-under-nfa
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Oct 3, 2015 04:21
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Shotgun. Used a pipe cutter to get a good groove then finished with a hacksaw, file, and sandpaper. You don't want to go all the way with the pipe cutter because it cut via pinching and that can mess up your choke and crown and so on. 18" is the legal limit, most go to 18.5" just to be on the safe side of things. I stopped at 19 just to have some room to spare.
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Oct 3, 2015 04:29
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Anyone got a solid recommendation on an automatic wire stripper that's a step or two above the HF one? I've had a HF one for a long time now and it's racked up enough use that it's a bit sloppy - more often than not, it will either not grab the insulation enough and just slide along it, or grab too hard and take some wire strands with it. I could just get another one, I suppose, but I'd rather replace it once and be done.
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Oct 7, 2015 06:39
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The Klein one w/ interchangeable jaws.
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Oct 7, 2015 07:06
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Speaking of wiring, I need to get a ratcheting crimper on a ~$50 budget. The HF one is garbage because it doesn't close tightly enough; I returned the one I had but the replacement is just as bad. I need to do a lot of insulated butts and uninsulated bullets. What's worth getting?
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Oct 7, 2015 11:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Anyone got a solid recommendation on an automatic wire stripper that's a step or two above the HF one? I've had a HF one for a long time now and it's racked up enough use that it's a bit sloppy - more often than not, it will either not grab the insulation enough and just slide along it, or grab too hard and take some wire strands with it. I could just get another one, I suppose, but I'd rather replace it once and be done. I'll go ahead and tell you that the Irwin self adjusting wire stripper is equal garbage to the HF one. I've given up and just use these anymore, and don't regret a thing.
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Oct 7, 2015 12:13
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Splizwarf posted:Speaking of wiring, I need to get a ratcheting crimper on a ~$50 budget. The HF one is garbage because it doesn't close tightly enough; I returned the one I had but the replacement is just as bad. I need to do a lot of insulated butts and uninsulated bullets. What's worth getting? The Ancor one on Amazon works pretty well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NI3EMK/
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Oct 7, 2015 12:21
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Splizwarf posted:Speaking of wiring, I need to get a ratcheting crimper on a ~$50 budget. The HF one is garbage because it doesn't close tightly enough; I returned the one I had but the replacement is just as bad. I need to do a lot of insulated butts and uninsulated bullets. What's worth getting? I went with this Tool Aid one, been happy with it so far and it has a second set of red/blue/yellow dies that are a bit tighter for heat shrinkable connectors. [url]S & G Tool Aid 18920 Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit- 5 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STTTI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_eFsfwb50Q8AE2[/url]
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Oct 7, 2015 15:13
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Which wire stripper do you use, the fully auto ones or one like this http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063W-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ where you have to put the wire in the right size die? I used the latter type, never had much luck with the fully auto ones. Though an electrician I worked with used just the grey plastic coax cutters (had a few of them preset for each size wire) and that's what he was happiest with for some reason. Maybe because it didn't matter how thick or strong the insulator was with them as he was used to 4mm+ cable.
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Oct 7, 2015 15:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:I went with this Tool Aid one, been happy with it so far and it has a second set of red/blue/yellow dies that are a bit tighter for heat shrinkable connectors. [url]S & G Tool Aid 18920 Ratcheting Terminal Crimping Kit- 5 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STTTI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_eFsfwb50Q8AE2[/url] I have two of these as well. They work well, I'd recommend them. Although similar looking, the HF ones don't crimp tight enough.
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Oct 7, 2015 16:41
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wallaka posted:The Ancor one on Amazon works pretty well. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NI3EMK/ Seconding the ancor. I've redone my boat, RV and several smaller projects with it no problem.
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Oct 7, 2015 17:30
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Fo3 posted:Which wire stripper do you use, the fully auto ones or one like this http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-11063W-Katapult-Stripper/dp/B00BC39YFQ where you have to put the wire in the right size die? Yeah looking at the five-star reviews on that Klein I might give that a shot. Amusingly, Home Depot has it cheaper than anyone else, in stock locally to boot.
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Oct 7, 2015 18:33
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Does anyone have this Astro Pneumatic crimper? A little over my budget but it's got a bunch of different jaw sets and a decent case. I have some other Astro stuff that's been solid.
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Oct 7, 2015 19:18
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Tools! - We know some poo poo about strippers
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Oct 7, 2015 19:31
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I bought a $20 set of wire crimpers from amazon... they work pretty decent and every single one of my crimps has been awesome. Honestly, 50 bucks for a set of crimpers and automatic strippers will do 95% of all your automotive work. But thats my take on wire tools. Really, spend a modest amount on the tools and spend a little extra on the connectors. poo poo connectors will always be poo poo connectors, no matter how good your tools are. Edit: Tools - Nothing but strippin and crimpin ITT
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Oct 7, 2015 19:34
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Crimpin' ain't easy . . .
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Oct 7, 2015 19:39
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We doing: big crimpin, we strippin sleeves Big crimpin with A.N.C.O.R.'s We doing big crimpin up in DIY It's just that Jigga Man, Pimp C, and B-U-N B meh
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Oct 7, 2015 19:42
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Tamir Lenk posted:Tools! - We know some poo poo about strippers Tools! - Please don't tell my wife how expensive the strippers were!
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Oct 8, 2015 00:17
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Tamir Lenk posted:Crimpin' ain't easy . . . But it is necessary.
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Oct 8, 2015 02:48
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You say no to ratchet crimps, but AI can't?
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Oct 8, 2015 03:54
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I'm looking for a really nice ratcheting screwdriver with a strong magnetic 1/4" hex head. I have a decent set of tips that I got years ago from harbor freight but I don't have a nice ratcheting driver to go with them. Any recommendations? Preferably not something crazy expensive, $25-50 or so. One with lots of teeth would be best. I was looking at this Wera but it's on the expensive side and has a built-in bit holder: http://www.amazon.com/Wera-Kraftfor...nts=p_89%3AWera I really hate drivers with built-in bit holders, especially the ones with a screw cap on the bottom to hold the bits. gently caress that poo poo. I just want a really nice, no-frills, ratcheting driver with a 1/4" magnetic hex head. Bonus points for a matching stubby version. Thanks!
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Oct 8, 2015 04:02
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Coolnezzz posted:I'm looking for a really nice ratcheting screwdriver with a strong magnetic 1/4" hex head. I have a decent set of tips that I got years ago from harbor freight but I don't have a nice ratcheting driver to go with them. Any recommendations? Preferably not something crazy expensive, $25-50 or so. One with lots of teeth would be best.
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Oct 8, 2015 04:19
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That will do perfectly, thank you! I was also looking at Snap-On but this looks like it has similar quality for much less money.
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Oct 8, 2015 04:39
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Coolnezzz posted:That will do perfectly, thank you! I was also looking at Snap-On but this looks like it has similar quality for much less money. Williams manufactures some of Snap-On's tools, actually. Might even be the same one, depending.
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Oct 8, 2015 04:43
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Raluek posted:Williams manufactures some of Snap-On's tools, actually. Might even be the same one, depending.
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Oct 8, 2015 04:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah looking at the five-star reviews on that Klein I might give that a shot. Amusingly, Home Depot has it cheaper than anyone else, in stock locally to boot. Got it and tested it on some random wire tonight. Yeah, this Klein stripper is the poo poo.
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Oct 8, 2015 06:28
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IOwnCalculus posted:Got it and tested it on some random wire tonight. Yeah, this Klein stripper is the poo poo. There is a reason that all the electricians I know use Klein pliers and screwdrivers almost exclusively.
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Oct 8, 2015 08:34
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This might be outside the scope of this thread, but would anyone have any idea why my pneumatic nailers keep jamming on me? My dad bought me a refurb set of Husky air nailers awhile back and I've never been able to get them to fire off more than one in a row before jamming, if they even feed a nail at all. I always put a few drops of air tool oil in before use, and I know my six gallon compressor can run a Hitachi framing nailer, so I'm not sure if it's the tool, the variety of nails I've used (everything from HF to Sears brand of most lengths), or something I'm loving up. Nothing seems to work in any of the guns. The firing pin nearly always works and leaves an indent in the wood, but doesn't feed any nails. Is it something I'm doing wrong, or should I try contacting Big Sky Tools to see if I can RMA these things?
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Oct 9, 2015 13:46
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This weekend is the weekend of Torque Wrench. The engine needs to get worked on and I can't do that without a way of not loving up the reassembly. Few questions for those in the knows:
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Oct 9, 2015 19:59
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scuz posted:This weekend is the weekend of Torque Wrench. The engine needs to get worked on and I can't do that without a way of not loving up the reassembly. Few questions for those in the knows: - No - Click style torque wrenches are good. I *think* there are some procedures that require a beam style torque wrench, but I don't know what those are - A middlin' compressor and a middlin' air impact will run you about $250-300. A halfway decent battery powered impact will start around $300.
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Oct 9, 2015 20:25
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Safety Dance posted:- Click style torque wrenches are good. I *think* there are some procedures that require a beam style torque wrench, but I don't know what those are Things like bearing preloads on rear ends - you need to find the torque required to rotate a shaft and clickers don't really do that.
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Oct 9, 2015 20:28
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scuz posted:This weekend is the weekend of Torque Wrench. The engine needs to get worked on and I can't do that without a way of not loving up the reassembly. Few questions for those in the knows: 100% yes, I just upgraded from pneumatic to electric, and it is everything I hoped for. I didn't realize how often I could have used an impact but didn't because I hate messing around with hoses and waiting on the compressor to fill the tank. Plus the electric is so much more maneuverable, so you can squeeze it in awkward spaces, like in the wheel well. This Makita brushless impact wrench is freaking awesome, and you can set it to three speeds, which consistently torque to 59 foot pounds, something else, and 210 foot pounds I believe. So you have some control, that you don't at least over torque something. It lets you get it on the right ballpark, and from there you can finish with a torque wrench. Catatron Prime fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Oct 9, 2015 |
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Oct 9, 2015 20:34
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Could you also use torque sticks to get closer or is it not worth the effort?
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Oct 9, 2015 21:10
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IOwnCalculus posted:Things like bearing preloads on rear ends - you need to find the torque required to rotate a shaft and clickers don't really do that. Ding ding ding. Anything requiring preload measurements needs a beam wrench. You need an "active" readout of torque, as it were. As an FYI, Home Depot sells a 1/4" drive inch pound beam wrench and their return policy is very generous  .
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Oct 9, 2015 22:19
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Ding ding ding. Anything requiring preload measurements needs a beam wrench. You need an "active" readout of torque, as it were. As an FYI, Home Depot sells a 1/4" drive inch pound beam wrench and their return policy is very generous Unless you just bought a house whose address is permanently blackballed in their system because the previous owners did a chargeback on something they bought at home depot. I just spent three weeks talking to roughly a dozen different clueless customer service representatives trying to figure out why their website kept giving me an error preventing me from buying poo poo online before someone finally told me that my new address was permanently flagged for fraud concerning a lovely cuisinart electric grill back in 2007 
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Oct 9, 2015 23:07
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QuarkMartial posted:Could you also use torque sticks to get closer or is it not worth the effort? I don't believe in torque sticks with out checking with a real torque wrench. Especially with electric torque wrenches. They sound like they are running at full tilt when the battery is slightly low but they are super down on toque. Basically, if I still have to come back and check with a wrench then the stick didn't get me anything to start with.
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Oct 9, 2015 23:15
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Yeah, it's really not worth using torque sticks. You have to either trust them implicitly (probably unwise), or follow with a torque wrench or just manually checking them with a ratchet. They're just a lovely middleman. I bought a second cheap HF torque wrench and I leave an extension and one of those double ended lug nut sockets on it. I zip the lug nuts in with my electric impact and then torque to spec. It's just as convenient as having torque sticks, but I can trust it.
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Oct 9, 2015 23:42
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OSU_Matthew posted:Unless you just bought a house whose address is permanently blackballed in their system because the previous owners did a chargeback on something they bought at home depot. Holy poo poo  . Did they sort it out at all or do you just have to deal?
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Oct 10, 2015 00:17
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scuz posted:Few questions for those in the knows: I asked this question a month or so ago, consensus was cordless impacts have come along far enough that if you can't break a bolt with a professional grade cordless 1/2" drive you're going to have to step up to a 3/4+ drive pneumatic with a serious air compressor to run it. If all you're going to buy the compressor for is to run a pneumatic impact wrench might as well spend the money on a high quality cordless since you're probably going to spend at least as much on a decent compressor alone.
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Oct 10, 2015 00:52
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scuz posted:This weekend is the weekend of Torque Wrench. The engine needs to get worked on and I can't do that without a way of not loving up the reassembly. Few questions for those in the knows: I work at a tire shop. I use an Ingersoll-rand 20v Lithium impact (W7150) for all my tire-changin' needs. The beautiful thing is that it's portable as hell. I bring it home with me and it does just as good a job on my own cars. I charge the battery once or twice a week. I have two batteries - but it only takes like 30 minutes to charge it up. Our company procedures require us to thread the nuts on the studs by hand the first few turns (so as not to cross-thread), impact away if you wish (with a torque stick), and then torque with a company owned calibrated torque wrench. Not only that - you have to write the torque number down on the work order and initial it too. You know what's odd? Every mechanic at our place does actually do this. So do I.
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Oct 10, 2015 01:57
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