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Cakefool posted:You know what's an awesome tool? Those were some impressively broken image tags. And now I want an IR camera 
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Jun 27, 2016 20:23
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Wow, lawnmower is hot. Myth busted. Have you tried it on electrical or HVAC stuff? Flir 1 or Seek? Mercury Ballistic fucked around with this message at 20:57 on Jun 27, 2016 |
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Jun 27, 2016 20:39
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Flir one for android, work ordered it last year, it turned up today and I'm the only one with an android phone any more so it goes home with me for a while.  I've only photo's of my kids and tea cooking, central heating's off until Autumn and no AC. When it does get cold I'll be checking the house from the outside though I guarantee it.
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Jun 27, 2016 20:49
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Cakefool posted:You know what's an awesome tool? I told you. Wait until you are troubleshooting something and think "If I knew what the temperature patterns were, it would help me diagnose" then you can be all  and pull out the FLIR
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Jun 27, 2016 21:04
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EVERYWHERE 
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Sup FLIR 1 buddies. We had some 90F+ days last week and took the opportunity to check the house inside and out. We're USDA Zone 4b in Minnesota in a fairly old, multiple-additions-over-60-years house so we were mostly looking for missing/low insulation, HVAC leaks, window issues, etc. Huge album if you're bored or interested: http://imgur.com/a/6Zl0L  Too bad I didn't get this a couple weeks earlier when I was diagnosing ATV carb/exhaust issues.
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Jun 27, 2016 21:30
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Krakkles posted:Counterpoint: those are all wise life decisions. Yeah I'm going with that. He also has this tool that is 1/4" drive ratchet on one side and a bit driver on the other. And there also thin as a wrench and 55$ so probably that and a 1/2" ratchet.
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Jun 28, 2016 00:00
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Krakkles posted:Counterpoint: those are all wise life decisions. Oh I don't disagree. I'm actually annoyed I waited so long to buy Snap-on ratchets. Just warning people that you can't buy just one, so budget accordingly.
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Jun 28, 2016 15:45
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Counterpoint opinion - at least in terms of using it (feel, neato features, etc) I prefer my Wera Zyklop ratchet to my coworker's Snap-On FF80. I have broken neither, though, so I can't speak to durability or ease of warranty. I may also have a preference for round-head ratchets, so take as many grains of salt as you want. Either way though, after using a mix of Armstrong and Proto at my last job, I just can't go back to the very cheap stuff I used to be used to. May have to slowly throw away my dad's pile of partially broken 3/8 Craftsman-or-worse ratchets and replace them with other stuff.
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Jun 28, 2016 16:22
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I've not used all the expensive pro grade ratchets, but what I can tell you is the HF extendables are quite nice and rather strong. I used to break Craftsman ratchets a couple times a year and I've been using a 1/2 HF extendaratchet and a 3/8 + 1/4 double sided extendable ratchet for 1 and 2 years now respectively with no breakage. Haven't been nice to them at all and I found the double faced one seized up in a mud puddle at the junkyard. All I did to free it up was leave it covered in WD40+old motor oil for a while and work it free again, I never actually cleaned it out or reoiled it. Will they stand up as well as snapoff/SK/bluepoint/matco/etc? No idea. Will they handle everything I'm capable of dishing out and more? Yeah. Will update when I finally break one. e: oh yeah, I did break the back end of the plastic handle off the 1/2 drive one because the metal shank only goes 2/3 of the way down it. Annoying, but still worked fine after.
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Jun 28, 2016 16:55
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I broke the stud off of the HF extendable ratchet, the one with 1/4 and 3/8 heads. I'm not that strong either 
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Jun 28, 2016 16:57
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Huh. Luck of the draw chinese potmetal I guess? (quality control, consistent alloying, and consistent heat treatment is for proles)
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Jun 28, 2016 16:59
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Astonishing Wang posted:I broke the stud off of the HF extendable ratchet, the one with 1/4 and 3/8 heads. I'm not that strong either I sheared the 1/4" head off three times and finally realized that it only happened using a 13mm or 14mm socket. Since my 3/8" sockets go down to 10mm, it seemed obvious that I should just never use anything bigger than a 10mm on the 1/4" side. Never sheared another. At 10mm the bolt head will shear before the ratchet head, you can put a lot more grunt into a 14mm bolt.
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Jun 28, 2016 19:36
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Splizwarf posted:I sheared the 1/4" head off three times and finally realized that it only happened using a 13mm or 14mm socket. Since my 3/8" sockets go down to 10mm, it seemed obvious that I should just never use anything bigger than a 10mm on the 1/4" side. Never sheared another. At 10mm the bolt head will shear before the ratchet head, you can put a lot more grunt into a 14mm bolt. It's definitely something where you can just switch drive size based on a smaller range of bolt sizes/difficulty and there's nothing wrong with doing that, but using a premium tool lets you broaden that range.
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Jun 28, 2016 19:46
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Just inherited this: What can you tell me about it? How do I identify the model? I assume spare parts are still gonna be available? All I know is that it's heavy as poo poo and was not fun getting it off the truck.
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Jun 28, 2016 20:24
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jun 28, 2016 20:27
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Extra posted:The model should be stamped into the toolbox somewhere unless that's pre-1959 in which case good luck. I think that's likely....I haven't found any markings yet. EDIT: KR-555 There's some other markings but they're pretty hard to see. I might have to do like indiana jones and take a charcoal rubbing. revmoo fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jun 28, 2016 |
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Jun 28, 2016 20:47
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jun 28, 2016 23:44
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Krakkles posted:This is absolutely true, and also a perfect example of where Snap-On is worth it to me - I regularly use my TF72 to break bolts up to 15mm loose. While they're not torqued to 200lb-ft or rusted shut (always), they're definitely within what I would call "very tight" and I certainly wouldn't back off because of a little rust. I have a similar ratchet but it's twice as long. I'm really thinking 1/2 gently caress off ratchet. Bigger the better. But with a big one I may be tempted to beat my coworkers....
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Jun 29, 2016 00:02
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Good lord three hundred and twenty-three elbows That is one heavy toolbox. E: that is 40lbs less than my ninja 300. Wow. revmoo fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jun 29, 2016 |
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Jun 29, 2016 00:20
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What do i buy for drawer liner?
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Jun 29, 2016 01:17
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revmoo posted:What do i buy for drawer liner? http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOOL-BOX-DRAWER-LINERS-Non-Slip-Tool-Box-Liners-BLACK-/231938574610?hash=item36009dc912:m:mjkJwmz3VJahgXoCJhC-C2A Best I've found. Thick and sticky, but doesn't leave a residue. Tools leave an imprint, which is nice if you have some organization you're shooting for.
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Jun 29, 2016 01:47
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Yoga mats in raucous colors from Five Below. $5/each and $10 will do ya, and they're oil resistant (ew). It's washable if your poo poo gets mega-nasty. You can buy multiple colors and Dap Weldwood or Shoe Goo them together if you want to make cutout shadow mats like aircraft pros use. I like bright turquoise or teal in a red box because I think it's a lot easier to find tools against a bright background that none of them match, as opposed to black mats or grey or whatever.
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Jun 29, 2016 04:08
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Krakkles posted:This is absolutely true, and also a perfect example of where Snap-On is worth it to me - I regularly use my TF72 to break bolts up to 15mm loose. While they're not torqued to 200lb-ft or rusted shut (always), they're definitely within what I would call "very tight" and I certainly wouldn't back off because of a little rust. I was all up inside a machine today and I wanted to take off the ground cable from the block, which is secured with a 3/8" bolt (so 9/16" head), but all I had with me was this and a rack of sockets. I had to lean pretty hard on it and I think with a lesser ratchet I would have worried about breaking it off. revmoo posted:Just inherited this:   What up, 80s Snap-on box buddy. It's technically still under warranty, but parts availability will be hit or miss. Casters probably, drawers probably not, and sliders maybe. I have a late 80s box that had 2 broken sliders of different sizes, and while one I got at no charge, I had to repair the other as they no longer make or supply it.For liners I bought a roll of Newpig Grippy mats and cut it to size (it helped that it was just about exactly as wide as my drawers are deep) for all the drawers. Tools slide around a little bit, although even my wrenches which I just have laid out didn't shift that much when I drove the box across town, but the mats themselves stay the gently caress put. I've had them for a year and a half and none of them are even a hair out of place. No sliding, bunching, or curling up at the corners; they are exactly where I put them down. They're made to be put down on a shop floor and then walked/driven over, so they're durable as gently caress too. Next time I have to line a tool box I will definitely buy these again.
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Jun 29, 2016 05:52
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So does anyone know of a set of precision screwdrivers that is made of especially strong metal? Seems every set I own now has at least one mangled or broken screwdriver in it. Ordinarily there is lots of virtue in the idea of cheap disposable Chinese tools, but there isn't much else to do if you're trying to undo a tiny screw that is just not having it and has decided to mung every tiny screwdriver you own. I`m not confronting any particular screw right now, but I have precisely one can of very old, pre-"Contains no Chlorofluorocarbons" "Minus 62"-brand component chiller. It's goddamn brilliant at doing what it's meant to do (chill a potentially-overheating thing as a diagnostic tool), and I've thought of using it to contract metal for fastener removal, but I'm not sure if that would work and I don't want to use up a lot of it in one go. Has anyone ever met it before and used it for that purpose? Also, how hard should I be kicking myself for not scarfing up all dozen or so that were at ReStore when I first saw them (they were literally gone the next day)?
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Jun 29, 2016 06:23
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Please don't piss about with CFC-based chemicals, find somewhere that recycles them and have it taken care of rather than rather than release an incredibly powerful long-lived ozone depleting chemical into the atmosphere because you wanted to do something cool  with a screw.Yes you paid for it but that doesn't mean you get to ruin the loving ozone layer.
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Jun 29, 2016 06:27
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It's probably literally a can of R12 Buy a more modern can of freeze spray that's full of R152a and use that. R152a's ozone depletion level is zero, R12 is almost literally the standard by which ozone depletion is judged
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Jun 29, 2016 08:54
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Check the label but he said it says no CFCs. That rules out, uh, CFCs. Yes, some other things hurt the ozone layer, thus check the label. E: r152a lasts a year or two in the atmosphere and doesn't hurt ozone, but does cause global warming for that year or two, a little. Still pretty benign. kastein fucked around with this message at 11:46 on Jun 29, 2016 |
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Jun 29, 2016 11:44
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kastein posted:Check the label but he said it says no CFCs. That rules out, uh, CFCs. He said pre no cfc, leading me to believe that it does contain cfc.
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Jun 29, 2016 16:18
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Oh I am literally retarded and missed that part  Yeah probably R12, dichlorodifluoromethane. If it is, keep it for recharging old auto AC systems instead!
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Jun 29, 2016 16:48
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What's a good asset tagging / "Stolen From Blahblah" solution? Ideally, in this case, "good" means "cheap and hard to remove"?
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Jun 29, 2016 18:35
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Those heavy (like, 16ga not foil) aluminum tags the military and some universities use are annoying to remove from dumpster dived goodies, I can tell you that. They still come off though so I would back them up with engraving the surface with the same info next to the sticker to keep anyone from getting ideas. Take pics and store them in case you need to prove ownership to the police and/or make an insurance claim.
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Jun 29, 2016 18:44
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kastein posted:Those heavy (like, 16ga not foil) aluminum tags the military and some universities use are annoying to remove from dumpster dived goodies, I can tell you that. They still come off though so I would back them up with engraving the surface with the same info next to the sticker to keep anyone from getting ideas. Take pics and store them in case you need to prove ownership to the police and/or make an insurance claim.
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Jun 29, 2016 18:50
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, engraving seems to be what everyone I know does. There may be particular devices, but dremels work well. Or an actual engraving tool, they're cheap. Other popular options: Electro-Etching, paint, or grind marks.
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Jun 29, 2016 23:19
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One of these days when Chinese laser engravers get cheap enough, I will design my own logo with embedded contact information and go to town on all my tools. Splizwarf posted:Yoga mats in raucous colors from Five Below. $5/each and $10 will do ya, and they're oil resistant (ew). It's washable if your poo poo gets mega-nasty. You can buy multiple colors and Dap Weldwood or Shoe Goo them together if you want to make cutout shadow mats like aircraft pros use. That's actually a really clever idea, kudos! I've been using the harbor freight drawer liners (which are actually pretty nice), but once I start making more room on my drawers and get better organized, this is definitely what I'm going to do!
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Jun 30, 2016 03:49
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Is there a tool for releasing crimps on wiring? I've been practicing some crimping and the big thing that I've realized is that it's almost impossible to get a crimp back off. edit: or just something I don't know. I had the best luck with rotating the crimp 90 degrees, holding it with needlenose, and crimping it off-axis, which seemed to allow me to work the wire loose, but definitely didn't "release" it. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jun 30, 2016 |
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Jun 30, 2016 04:15
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Krakkles posted:Is there a tool for releasing crimps on wiring? I've been practicing some crimping and the big thing that I've realized is that it's almost impossible to get a crimp back off. I thought when you screw up a crimp your wire gets shorter.
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Jun 30, 2016 04:23
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StormDrain posted:I thought when you screw up a crimp your wire gets shorter.
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Jun 30, 2016 05:07
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Splizwarf posted:Yoga mats in raucous colors from Five Below. I've never even heard of this place but turns out there is one only a few miles away. Nice tip. They also have 24" square foam tiles for $3.
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Jun 30, 2016 05:37
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The whole point about crimps is that they don't come loose if you do them properly (in other words, no, there is not, crimps are a one-time thing)
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Jun 30, 2016 06:42
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literally a fish posted:The whole point about crimps is that they don't come loose if you do them properly
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Jun 30, 2016 07:31
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