|
I really like my 8-ball shifter another goon gave me. Threw it on the drill press, tapped it for M10x1.5, and on it went. I got lucky with where it snugged up too. Also, I think you'd have to put the grease on the clutch fork with a pressure washer or some sort of firearm to get it far enough into the clutch assembly to make it actually slip. Remember that centripetal force is going to fling it away from the clutch friction as soon as you spin the engine up, even if you get it within a fraction of an inch of touching. Worst case, you add a little lube to the throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers.
|
#
¿
Nov 24, 2012 05:51
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:33 |
|
|
Soviet bureaucracy is the only one that's caused a nuclear meltdown, as far as I'm aware.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 30, 2012 01:46
|
|
|
As I recall out of state vehicles in NH have to go through a VIN inspection, yeah. It's not quite as easy as that. I looked into this because the drat government retitled my M54A2 as a '90 when they rebuilt it (new motor, new paint, new seals = new truck - it was originally made in '58) which precludes me from registering it antique. Was all ready to sell it to a friend in NH on a bill of sale as a 58, buy it back, then found out it was substantially more involved than that and not worth my time, especially seeing as it's broken, definitely a long term project, and will be an antique in 2015 even with a '90 YOM anyhow. I doubt it'll even be done by then. It irks me that the government gets to retitle vehicles when they rebuild them, I'd be driving a 2012 Jeep Comanche if I could do that. Oh well, golden rule, they have the gold, they make the rules 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 1, 2012 23:30
|
|
|
Nerd welds look good, though I usually prefer using heatshrink butt splice crimps on auto wiring that's exposed to vibration and/or the environment.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2012 00:55
|
|
|
Especially if you buy in bulk online instead of at the store. $5 for 3 at the store, or 140 (assorted) for $40 on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Heat-Shrink-Connector-Piece/dp/B008HMHJDO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2 That kit is actually the one CommissarGribb got for the engine swap and custom wiring harness I built for his YJ, I used drat near the whole thing building that harness but it came out perfectly. A lighter works but it takes a long time unless you risk burning the insulation, a propane blowtorch held fairly far away works better and a heatgun is obviously the best. I don't really trust the solder filled ones, sometimes I can't tell if they have sufficient flux in them and a cold solder joint is a terrible thing to try and diagnose. I guess I just don't trust a solder joint I made with a lighter through a layer of heatshrink tubing.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2012 21:49
|
|
|
Make sure you get it far enough back, too, nothing like finishing soldering only to realize that the heat half shrunk the drat tube because it was too close to the joint.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 26, 2012 05:35
|
|
|
I thought those were factory produced grilles as well. Very cleanly built.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2012 03:57
|
|
|
That's some clean sweating, I approve. I'm surprised you haven't seen these - at least around here you can get ball valves with a built in drain screw. I used one for exactly that purpose, draining the branch line to my outside hose bibb in wintertime. Also, they make special hose bibbs for exterior use that have a long body and actually locate the valve inside the house. They require a larger hole bored through the sill/sheathing but it's not that big a deal. Ball valve w/ drain - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...51#.UN5IIne8rY0 Freezeproof hose bibb - http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100182111/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=hose+12&storeId=10051#.UN5Ipne8rY0 Just have to remember to sweat the ball valve in with the drain tap NOT on the supply side 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2012 02:34
|
|
|
Asbestos siding can go gently caress itself. I have it, over wood clapboards. And my foundation is fieldstone, lime mortar, and brick (only on the side that sticks out of the ground) 
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2012 03:08
|
|
|
Motronic posted:I thought it was old rear end pre color-code 14-2. Maybe I've been working on my hackjob of a house (and bringing everything up to code) for too long, but looking at that cable spooning with the pipe barely phased me.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2012 04:37
|
|
|
What's that about positively gutted joists? ... poo poo electrics? Maxwell House got you COVERED!  Dodgy plumbing you say?  Then I got to work and fixed things up proper.  There's a reason I'm gutting my house to the frame, rebuilding the whole interior, then gutting it to the frame from the outside and rebuilding the whole exterior too. It's had 120 years of previous owners just like Sock's previous owners.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2012 07:09
|
|
|
Somehow I missed that. My mistake  Viggen, literally everything in the house is like that unless I've touched it. Every wall holds a new surprise. I don't even know how many flying splices I've found so far, another one in the same circuit as the maxwell house cans went from knob and tube to unrated speaker wire and then to romex, all with just wire nuts, not even a coffee can nevermind an actual outlet box. Wow, looking at that picture I hadn't even realized that there are white, yellow, and orange NM cables (14, 12, and 10 gauge) in that one circuit. Now I'm horribly curious what rating the breaker had, and can't even check because I tore that all out long ago.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2012 07:30
|
|
|
Looks like you still have plenty of regular breakers to replace with dual/slimline ones, you're good to go. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2013 05:53
|
|
|
It looks like the white wire goes to a lug with a black wire as well, making the total 3 wires... 2 black and a white. Unless I'm going cross eyed. I'm not sure I want to know what's up with that. e: big 4 conductor cable (4ga? 6ga?) on the lower right. white wire goes to the big dual gang breaker with the trip button at the lower left. Looks like GFCI? black wire goes to the lug on the top dual gang breaker that also has a white wire going to it.  red wire goes to the middle dual gang breaker on the left! I'm going to stop staring into this abyss before it stares back into me. 
kastein fucked around with this message at 07:49 on Jan 28, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2013 07:46
|
|
|
I've got a weller WES51 station I bought 9 years ago that I love. For anything that requires a LOT of heat (or specialty solders such as lead free / silver / plumbing / etc), I have propane torches and a giant iron I call my "soldering caber", it's basically a pencil iron but about 18" long and 2" diameter with a 3/4" chisel pointed copper rod as a tip. I'm pretty sure I could solder a ground strap to an engine block with that thing. I have a soldering pot around here somewhere too, but haven't used it in years, great when tinning dozens of wires for something. I got it mostly because it was $10 and came with something like 10-20lbs of solder already in it at a flea market.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2013 01:17
|
|
|
one of the angry orchard ciders goes really, really well with a hot day and the smell of freshly split red oak. I think I killed most of a sixer without even realizing it that day.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 27, 2013 15:58
|
|
|
daslog posted:Is this the new girl beer thread? <  >This is ciderchat not smirnoff ice chat!
|
|
#
¿
Feb 28, 2013 02:40
|
|
|
I actually don't like the third hand type setups, I prefer to form the wire into the right shape to stay where I want it and then work fast. And yeah, on second look, those are passable (better than about 99% of overseas assembled equipment, anyways) but could use a little more heat to make it flow better. I see a few spots where you didn't get full flow into the wire strands - didn't notice that when you showed me those earlier, apparently I was looking at a low res image.
|
|
#
¿
May 26, 2013 20:29
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Go price out a R22 power head for a Mitsubishi Mr. Slim. It's loving expensive since our system is 22years old and would need to be upgraded on both ends. The transformer is attached to a PCB and the unit is from pre-1990. That's going to be an expensive repair for a system that's pretty drat old. Get me specs on the original transformer and I'll see what I can do.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2013 23:51
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Temporary home fix is different than permanent paid contractor fix. 8ender posted:Whats that quote about mechanics having the worst cars? The cobbler's kids go barefoot.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 17, 2013 01:11
|
|
|
gently caress lowballers, I was given a serious offer of $150 on an axle I had at a swapmeet with a $500 tag on it a while ago. I told the idiot if he wanted one for $150 he could lie in mud full of broken glass under a 7000lb truck stacked on top of spare tires and eat angle grinder sparks for a few hours himself. A friend of mine was offered $500 on a truck he was asking $4k for. Not a joking offer, either, and the guy got insulted when he replied "I am not a broke crackhead I will not take ridiculous offers". Some days I think 99.9% of the automotive community (I generally blame just the offroad community, but let's face it, there are a lot of retards everywhere) is terminally stupid.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 20, 2013 06:52
|
|
|
Wow, those boards are 80s as gently caress. I haven't seen that many .156 MTA connectors used as mezzanines since I was tearing that stuff apart for fun ten or fifteen years ago.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 2, 2013 01:07
|
|
|
Clearly the answer here is 3800 and supercharger.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 3, 2014 16:34
|
|
|
I'd put an extension on if I had that kind of dry cracking problem too.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 14, 2014 22:45
|
|
|
Standard waste-spark setup, 4 post 2 coil pack mounted centrally (aka on the intake manifold.)
|
|
#
¿
Jul 3, 2014 19:06
|
|
|
Goober Peas posted:The pheonix rises from its...pile of rust! Rusting cars: the slowest automotive fire you've ever witnessed.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 27, 2014 15:43
|
|
|
I'd like to be your south of the border dealer for that system, but I settled for just not replacing the cam seals on my EJ251-22E like an idiot so it handles the coating all by itself since I don't have a garage to install such a thing in. I agree that coated rotors are pretty silly here - they only last as long as the coating under the pads, which isn't very long since zinc is softer than the copper bits-n-pieces in most semimetallic pads.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 29, 2014 22:23
|
|
|
I have a local subaru crisis management negotiator on the line. Was the wiring harness all crumbly near the solenoid?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2015 22:43
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:33 |
|
|
If you feel like it, pop the cover off the ECU and take some high res pictures of all the driver transistors for me. They might be covered in conformal coating and illegible but hopefully not. There's a solid chance you can desolder one, solder a replacement in for $15, and be on your way.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2015 00:51
|
|