|
Still haven't come up with a wheel idea, but otherwise declaring: SUCCESSFUL PROJECT.  I'd show the hood open but its not currently attached because my drill is too big  Luckily my dad has a small one he'll bring to the party and we can pop it on there.
|
| # ? May 17, 2013 21:01 |
|
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2013 09:48 |
|
|
Alaan posted:With the point I'm at not strictly speaking a woodworking question but seemed a good place to ask. I'm making a toybox for my nephew that is an SUV as seen below! Why not make up wooden wheels and a dowel for an axel? A big hole saw will make up some wheels quick. Casters is cheating. It's like when you bring home the toy tank and find out that there are wheels hidden behind the treads instead of real working treads. Maybe other people didn't care but that was a always a disappointment for me. But so far that looks fantastic.
|
| # ? May 18, 2013 00:12 |
|
|
Alaan posted:Still haven't come up with a wheel idea, but otherwise declaring: SUCCESSFUL PROJECT. I would have loved that as a kid, nice project. If you don't have the tools to make wood wheels, try a farm store if you have one, they will have more types of wheels than you knew existed. If nothing else, you can cut wheels with a jig saw and make a sanding jig to make them perfectly round. http://images.search.yahoo.com/sear...mas&fr2=piv-web
|
| # ? May 18, 2013 00:22 |
|
|
Clearly the only answer is to restore a stanley #20
|
| # ? May 18, 2013 02:51 |
|
|
Pine, baked and unbaked. Guess it's not just the surface but goes all the way through. Interesting ukulele build here: http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/f...eat-Performance
|
| # ? May 19, 2013 05:56 |
|
|
I'm getting an old Craftsman drill press this weekend. Are the v-link belts worth it for drill presses, or is that excessive?
|
| # ? May 20, 2013 21:30 |
|
|
I've got a regular belt on my (craftsman) drill press and it seems fine. I have some extra power twist I could slap on to find out, but for that particular case, if you don't have it handy, I probably wouldn't bother.
|
| # ? May 20, 2013 22:30 |
|
|
Hello SA Woodworkers (and SA in general, I guess.) To get right to it, I'm making a prop axe, and I'm making it out of wood! I have some woodworking experience, and a variety of tools, but I'm looking for some advice on exactly how to make it. Specifically, I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to attach the head to the haft. I have a 1-1/4" x 48" dowel for the haft (which will be 40" long at the end), some 1-1/2" dowel for the endcaps (can't really call it a pommel...), some 3/4" x 12" x 48" pine for the 2 heads, and some small dowels to affix stuff together. My main question is: do you think a few dowels will be enough to hold a head of that size (about 11" tall and 24" long) onto the haft, even with the head being fairly light? From my experience, the small head should be fine with dowels and glue, but I'm worried about the large head. Thanks in advance. Reference photo: 
|
| # ? May 21, 2013 01:36 |
|
|
Rodenthar Drothman posted:My main question is: do you think a few dowels will be enough to hold a head of that size Yes it could work, but the devil is in the details.
|
| # ? May 21, 2013 04:00 |
|
|
My coffee table is starting to take shape. The end of the frame is in sight, more bars and arches on the long apron. Then it's time for the top or the shelf, not too sure what to expect on the top. I've never done any mitres before and these are going to be in plain sight. I've got a mitre box, so I guess I'll see how it goes. Any tips for tight fitting mitre joints? The bars are held in place with dowels and there's shallow mortise and tenons holding the aprons and legs in place. I'm going to put in corner brackets for more support, wood ones hopefully but if it's too much of a pain in the rear end then I'll get some metal ones. 
|
| # ? May 22, 2013 00:50 |
|
|
Meow Meow Meow posted:My coffee table is starting to take shape. The end of the frame is in sight, more bars and arches on the long apron. Then it's time for the top or the shelf, not too sure what to expect on the top. I've never done any mitres before and these are going to be in plain sight. I've got a mitre box, so I guess I'll see how it goes. Any tips for tight fitting mitre joints? Coming along nicely. How is the top built that it will have miters? Plywood with edging? If so, you don't have to miter them. Another technique is glue on the side edging and cut the ends off flush, then glue on a thicker end edging for a faux breadboard look. To answer the question, the only real tricks with miters is accurate cutting and/or accurate shooting with a hand plane (or miter trimmer but few people have those).
|
| # ? May 22, 2013 06:28 |
|
|
wormil posted:Coming along nicely. How is the top built that it will have miters? Plywood with edging? If so, you don't have to miter them. Another technique is glue on the side edging and cut the ends off flush, then glue on a thicker end edging for a faux breadboard look. To answer the question, the only real tricks with miters is accurate cutting and/or accurate shooting with a hand plane (or miter trimmer but few people have those). Thanks, that's exactly what I'm doing, plywood with a border, thinking of doing an inlay border of maple between the plywood and the solid wood. Thanks for the tips, I'll try my hand at a couple mitres then if that fails I'll go for the breadboard look.
|
| # ? May 23, 2013 02:44 |
|
|
wormil posted:Pine, baked and unbaked. Guess it's not just the surface but goes all the way through. What do you mean by "baked"? Physically in the oven? The pieces look a bit large for that.
|
| # ? May 23, 2013 03:37 |
|
|
jvick posted:What do you mean by "baked"? Physically in the oven? The pieces look a bit large for that. yep. the thread is a neat, weird read, check it out
|
| # ? May 23, 2013 03:50 |
|
teh butts
|
|
| # ? May 25, 2013 09:48 |
|
|
jvick posted:What do you mean by "baked"? Physically in the oven? The pieces look a bit large for that. They are ukulele fretboards so probably about 14" long. Baked in an oven at 225f for an hour.
|
| # ? May 23, 2013 06:21 |
|
