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If you guys want to try out some vicious fuzz/dirt you should check out Fuzzrocious pedals. He makes well tweaked variations of some classic sounds and they're all quiet, sturdy boxes. The Grey Stache is insane.
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Apr 25, 2014 21:25
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Please advise: I put my Zvex Instant Lo Fi Junky up for sale on Craigslist because I haven't found a way to make its sounds work well with the rest of my chain and even on its own I don't use it that often. This guy e-mailed me asking if I wanted to trade and I told him that the only pedals that were on my must-get list now are a fuzz, a chorus and a reverb similar to that Hardwire Supernatural or the Eventide Space. He listed off all his pedals and only two jumped out at me as ones I might be interested in: Wattson EFY-6 and Maestro Brassmaster (he said it's a hand wired clone). I looked up both of those on YouTube and they both sound gnarly as gently caress but I don't know which would be better for me. The Brassmaster is a bass pedal first and foremost, right? But I read that some guitar players use it too. And I also read that that one is crazy valuable, though this is a clone of it and as such wouldn't be as valuable, but maybe its sound still would be. Thoughts? I'll be using it with a Squier Jazzmaster, a Fender acoustic electric and a Roland synth. And I usually play ambient/post-rock type stuff, but if I had a fuzz, I don't know if I'd use that to make the same kind of stuff or something different entirely. e: I do have a Squier Jaguar bass that I could use the Brassmaster with, too, but I don't use that bass all that much. Maybe I should get the pedal as an excuse to use that bass more haha Rageaholic fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Apr 25, 2014 |
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Apr 25, 2014 23:23
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Please advise: I love the lofi junkie of course it's also cause I love drone poo poo, oh god it sounds so cool with heavy reverb
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Apr 26, 2014 00:03
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Smash it Smash hit posted:I love the lofi junkie of course it's also cause I love drone poo poo, oh god it sounds so cool with heavy reverb  I've tried recording stuff with it having tweaked it several different ways and it just never sounds all that right to me. It's a neat toy but something I feel I can use beyond that.
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Apr 26, 2014 00:12
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Please advise: Uhh well, if you usually play ambient/post-rock get the Wattson EFY-6 because it will end up being a lot more versatile and easier to bend to your will. Sounds like you already know that the Brassmaster really would not fit your idea of what your sound pallet ought to be, so getting it would not do you a whole lot of good. You should really get an idea of what sound you want before looking at pedals, then start looking for things that will transform that sound from your head into reality. Otherwise you get stuck in a loop of getting stuff and dropping it because it really does not work.
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Apr 26, 2014 00:26
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Stravinsky posted:Uhh well, if you usually play ambient/post-rock get the Wattson EFY-6 because it will end up being a lot more versatile and easier to bend to your will. Sounds like you already know that the Brassmaster really would not fit your idea of what your sound pallet ought to be, so getting it would not do you a whole lot of good.  I'm not in a band or even doling solo gigs or anything right now, so getting just the right tone from a series of pedals isn't as time-sensitive as it could be for me. I've just been playing around with different sounds for a while. But it would be pretty nice to achieve tone nirvana and stop having to constantly search for new solutions (temporarily, at least  ).Thanks. I'll see if I can trade with this guy and see how the Wattson fits into my chain.
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Apr 26, 2014 00:40
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wave at far left. speed at 2 o'clock. depth max, lofi max, tone 12 or above (depending on brightness of guitar) and volume based how you like it. add in reverb and welcome to my setting for it. creepy mode 
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Apr 26, 2014 05:43
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philkop posted:sweet, thanks bro. When funds are better I'll be looking into a cc, probably paired with a fuzz factory. EHX graphic fuzz and/or a Foxx Tone clone. Combine it with a Dynacomp and you can do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9RlZ4-ZbRog Alleric posted:So I don't know any other way to put this. The Zoom CDR-70 has four of the SPACE algorithms: MangledVerb (MangledSp), BlackHole (SpaceHole), DualVerb (DualRev), and Tremelo Verb (TremRv) all of which sound very excellent. Zoom pedals tend to do crazy, off-the-wall very well and it's only $110.
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Apr 27, 2014 03:25
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Are modeling/multi-fx pedals any good? What do I need to know about them? Been looking at a Pod HD300 or a GT-6/10 recently, but I don't have much experience with this stuff. Right now I'm playing a '62 RI Jag through a 40w hot rod deluxe, and my only surviving pedals are a proco rat and a big muff pi. It sounds good but there's not a lot of variety in the tone department. Moreover I like the idea of making my guitar sound like goofy synthy poo poo without dumping money on a dozen different fx pedals. Mostly it would be for playing and recording at home, but I also plan to return to playing live in the near future.
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Apr 27, 2014 22:47
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So I finally traded pedals with that guy on Craigslist last night and got the Wattson EFY-6 Fuzz out of it. I haven't played around with it too much, but from what I've heard so far, it sounds filthy as gently caress and I like it. Here's a quick demo of it used with my synth. I even used it on the bass and everything!
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May 3, 2014 10:20
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Declan MacManus posted:EHX graphic fuzz and/or a Foxx Tone clone. Combine it with a Dynacomp and you can do this: Thanks for the heads up. I will be checking those out then. 
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May 3, 2014 15:30
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Declan MacManus posted:EHX graphic fuzz and/or a Foxx Tone clone. Combine it with a Dynacomp and you can do this: Sweet, pretty sure I saw my amp in the back somewhere too.
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May 3, 2014 22:50
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Alright so I've had that Wattson EFY-6 fuzz for a little over a week and been testing it out a good bit. I like its fuzz tones, but man, it is crazy noisy when I have it on and I'm not playing I don't think I like it enough to buy something like the Electro-Harmonix Hum Debugger just to get rid of its noise, so I put it up on Craigslist and I'm hoping to get a different fuzz. I think I have it narrowed down to 2: the Swollen Pickle and the Blue Box. The Swollen Pickle seems much more versatile, but the Blue Box, while harder to control, seems like it can produce really gnarly effects that I wouldn't get with the Swollen Pickle. Which would y'all recommend?
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May 10, 2014 03:43
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Which would y'all recommend? I'll admit to being a little mystified in general when people worry about noise when they're not playing and invest in noise gates and all that. Learn to work your controls, spend no money, enjoy. 
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May 10, 2014 03:52
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iostream.h posted:This isn't intended to be in any way a snarky, smartass comment, but if you like the way it sounds learn to slam your volume knob off between songs.  Although in addition to the hum, I'm also interested in exploring different fuzz tones. I ended up selling my EHX Glove today because since getting the fuzz, I didn't feel like I had any use for the Glove anymore. I guess I learned through trying a bunch of different pedals that I have more use for a fuzz than I do an OD/distortion. But when I got the Wattson through a trade, I wasn't expecting that to happen. So now I'm wanting a fuzz that really makes me happy on all fronts since it's going to be the only OD/distortion/fuzz I own, basically.
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May 10, 2014 04:02
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If you want a fuzz that does it all, I'd recommend the Fuzz Factory. There are enough of them out there that you can score a used one for a reasonable price. Fuzzes are always going to be loud, though. They are buzzy fury cased in metal
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May 10, 2014 04:11
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Declan MacManus posted:If you want a fuzz that does it all, I'd recommend the Fuzz Factory. There are enough of them out there that you can score a used one for a reasonable price. I also got a new synth a few days ago and want to make some dirty sounds like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eeAjKYyPL0 Would that be doable with any fuzz or just the Blue Box because it can go down 2 octaves?
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May 10, 2014 04:25
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Yeah, you're probably right Fuzz is a hell of a lot of fun, it can be kind of annoying at first because it's noisy as gently caress and can be really dissonant and abrasive when you don't necessarily want it to be but, once you kind of figure it out and get everything dialed in and (you'll notice a trend here) start riding your volume and tone knobs it REALLY opens up a lot of sonic options. Rageaholic Monkey posted:I ended up selling my EHX Glove today because since getting the fuzz, I didn't feel like I had any use for the Glove anymore. I guess I learned through trying a bunch of different pedals that I have more use for a fuzz than I do an OD/distortion. But when I got the Wattson through a trade, I wasn't expecting that to happen. So now I'm wanting a fuzz that really makes me happy on all fronts since it's going to be the only OD/distortion/fuzz I own, basically. Declan MacManus posted:If you want a fuzz that does it all, I'd recommend the Fuzz Factory. There are enough of them out there that you can score a used one for a reasonable price.  I'm pleased with myself, I've finally made myself sit down and put my poo poo on the board together properly. It's not all there yet, I haven't figured out exactly where to put the last few pedals in the chain and there's something new on the way (I have no idea what it is or what it does, it's a fun story) that I don't know where is going to fit, but so far, yeah, I'm stoked.  (The white shrink-wrap on the power cables on the upper right are from the homemade voltage doubler cable for my MXR 10 Band EQ. It's just two ports off the PedalPower+ wired in series.)  
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May 10, 2014 04:44
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iostream.h posted:Eh, it obviously depends on what you're doing, but I can't imagine having a single boost/fuzz/OD pedal on the board, there're just too many weird options available to say 'yup this is it' and once you start stacking them on top of one another it gets even better and crazier.  And I love your labeling 
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May 10, 2014 05:23
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Hey fellow MF Trem bros, does yours make an audible pop when you stomp it off? That's the only thing I don't like about mine but I'm going to live with it because, well, I don't need to explain.
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May 11, 2014 20:44
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Going to have a bit of time over the summer so, I figure I might as well learn how to build pedals. What would be a good site to order/info on doing so? I know byoc is pretty good but really it seems all their pedals, I can just buy for almost the same price. is there another site that is cheaper or more accessible than spending 100 bucks on a project when I could just buy just as good pedal already made?
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May 11, 2014 23:37
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For components and enclosures just look up the parts on Mouser or Digikey. Beavis Audio's a good starting place for learning.
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May 12, 2014 01:41
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There's a Line 6 Compressor Constrictor on sale at the local music store, used, for $40. I've hosed around with it with a store guitar and plan on taking my guitar down there, but does anyone have any feedback on it? Oh, and is $40 a decent deal on a Dunlop Crybaby wah? I need a wah.
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May 12, 2014 02:10
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Kilometers Davis posted:Hey fellow MF Trem bros, does yours make an audible pop when you stomp it off? That's the only thing I don't like about mine but I'm going to live with it because, well, I don't need to explain. No, it doesn't, though from what I can tell these are in no way attempting to be true bypass pedals (2pdt + LED, sans relay = not true bypass, generally speaking!); have you tried moving it around in your signal chain? Usually it's the device that comes before a pedal that causes the pop. Pop is the result of a buildup of potential energy that gets released suddenly when the switch actuates. Where is your pedal in your chain? Do you happen to have a buffer handy?
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May 12, 2014 02:22
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Smash it Smash hit posted:Going to have a bit of time over the summer so, I figure I might as well learn how to build pedals. BYOC is great for your first build if you have never soldered before. Their PCB's are very well marked. Then after that, I suggest moving over to vero board, which is conductive in horizontal rows. This site has literally hundreds of layouts for cloning circuits: http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/ I spent like $80 for my first BOC kit. Then, I made the exact same pedal off of a tagboard layout for about $18 in parts, including the enclosure.
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May 12, 2014 02:55
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Agreed posted:No, it doesn't, though from what I can tell these are in no way attempting to be true bypass pedals (2pdt + LED, sans relay = not true bypass, generally speaking!); have you tried moving it around in your signal chain? Usually it's the device that comes before a pedal that causes the pop. Pop is the result of a buildup of potential energy that gets released suddenly when the switch actuates. Where is your pedal in your chain? Do you happen to have a buffer handy? It's first in my effects loop in front of a mxr cc, then tc hall of fame, then tc ditto. I've moved it around and there's always a somewhat loud pop when disengaging. No buffer. That's a shame they're not true bypass enough though it's advertised as such. They don't diminish the PURE TONEZ at all unlike every other non tb pedal I've used. Haven't tried it in front yet but I doubt I will. Kilometers Davis fucked around with this message at 04:01 on May 12, 2014 |
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May 12, 2014 03:58
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Kilometers Davis posted:Hey fellow MF Trem bros, does yours make an audible pop when you stomp it off? That's the only thing I don't like about mine but I'm going to live with it because, well, I don't need to explain. Agreed posted:No, it doesn't, though from what I can tell these are in no way attempting to be true bypass pedals (2pdt + LED, sans relay = not true bypass, generally speaking!); have you tried moving it around in your signal chain? Usually it's the device that comes before a pedal that causes the pop. Pop is the result of a buildup of potential energy that gets released suddenly when the switch actuates. Where is your pedal in your chain? Do you happen to have a buffer handy?  Mine does not and it's in a huge chain (incidentally, all of my MF's are pre-preamp and they still sound loving incredible, and there's a VERY interesting reason the Trem in particular is effective pre-preamp instead of in the F/X chain). If I recall, there's a capacitance(?)-based reason that true-bypass pedals in particular can make a pop when switching on and off. I'm packing up from practice and going over some stuff with the band but I'll pull it up later unless someone else does. Post your signal chain if you don't mind, I BELIEVE it has something to do with the input/output impedance of the pedals fore and aft of a true-bypass pedal, but again, not able to really search for it atm. Edit: Hell, Agreed covered it, I only noticed the 'not true bypass' part of his post I quoted.
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May 12, 2014 04:42
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It's possible that it's a Millennium style and I'm just missing it, but 2PDT without a relay and with an LED that comes on and off with the actuation of the switch is not, generally speaking, true bypass. Still, I don't think Moog would lie about that. I'll ask a contact there tomorrow about it as it's been a curiosity I've had about them since getting them in, and let you know what they have to say. Again, it is possible to do a fully input-to-output bypass with a 2pdt switch, but it's a bit complicated, and there's a reason nearly everybody uses 3PDT switches for it (which also allow for a really simple fix to any popping, even if it's not the pedal's fault, by the way). I'll talk to Trent and see what's up there. As clever as these circuits are, it's probably just something I'm missing in trying to suss out the bypass methodology with my eyes. Edit: Popping is pretty much solely caused by something adjacent to a pedal building up a potential difference (voltage) and that releasing when the switch is actuated. It's almost never the pedal itself that's doing it. This is especially true with buffered bypass pedals and 3PDTs with sufficient pulldown, can be less true with pedals that are running less sophisticated bypass setups, but it's still usually "the thing next to it"'s fault, as counter-intuitive as that may sound. The impedance relationship is more about whether you'll accidentally have an unwanted filter created due to an impedance mismatch between pedals. Ideally, pedals should have very high input impedance and very low output impedance, if they want to coexist peacefully on a board. Agreed fucked around with this message at 05:16 on May 12, 2014 |
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May 12, 2014 05:10
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Ghost of Reagan Past posted:Oh, and is $40 a decent deal on a Dunlop Crybaby wah? I need a wah.
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May 12, 2014 05:20
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"Are they tbp update" - I don't need to talk to Trent about it, I took a closer look and ... as I probably should have expected, they're getting clever with it. In a way that improves durability, too. It's true bypass, it's just unconventional. Well, it's loving Moog, haha, so ... yeah, I take that earlier statement back, just needed to look closer at what's going on. Two damned PCBs in these things, and the actual mechanical switch they're using is really durable, too, much more so than any 3PDT currently on the market. God drat they make some cool pedals. It should not be popping because of itself. Examine your power, see if it pops if you just go guitar --> MF Trem --> Amp.
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May 12, 2014 06:35
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My EP booster seems to pop whenever it's connected to 18v but doesn't seem to when it's running off 9v. Does this make sense? And will I hurt him if I power it with 12v?
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May 12, 2014 12:44
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Agreed posted:"Are they tbp update" - I don't need to talk to Trent about it, I took a closer look and ... as I probably should have expected, they're getting clever with it. In a way that improves durability, too. It's true bypass, it's just unconventional. Well, it's loving Moog, haha, so ... yeah, I take that earlier statement back, just needed to look closer at what's going on. Two damned PCBs in these things, and the actual mechanical switch they're using is really durable, too, much more so than any 3PDT currently on the market. I'm curious about the details here. What's on the other pcb? A relay?
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May 12, 2014 16:26
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Smash it Smash hit posted:Going to have a bit of time over the summer so, I figure I might as well learn how to build pedals. Do it! Building pedals is fun. Most of the components you can get from Mouser for the cheapest if you know what you're looking for. Other good sites for info (don't necessarily have to buy from them but shows you what you need): http://buildyourownclone.com/ https://www.smallbearelec.com/home.html http://www.diystompboxes.com/wpress/ A few general tools to get you started: - A decent soldering station if you're going to keep with it (honestly it makes things a lot nicer than a cheap one from radioshack). Hakko is good stuff. - Solder, desoldering braid and/or a desoldering pump - Wire strippers and cutters - A helping hand to hold stuff If you get really into it and want to have more stuff on hand, a few companies make nice collections of resistors, caps, diodes, transistors, etc so you can always be fully stocked. and so on. Warning that it is addictive as hell, and the only reason I've been taking time away from it is a new project.
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May 12, 2014 17:14
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What do you think of the starter kits that BYOC offers?
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May 12, 2014 19:24
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havelock posted:I'm curious about the details here. What's on the other pcb? A relay? I'm put in a position where I've got the answer but to print it would be breaking confidence and I don't do that, ever. In my situation I reckon most would do the same (seriously, the Moog guys are super cool and I don't want to get shitcanned because I upset some of the nicest people in the business to satisfy curiosity when anyone who is reeeeally interested can reverse it themselves, you know?) Please trust me that it is, however, fully true bypass, and that as such the 2PDT switch conveys a reliability advantage - less to fail, and the angle of contact is very cleverly done too. Just very well thought out designs, both of the ones I have in my possession. Keep coming back to the word "cool." Hah. True, though, these things are really, really cool.
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May 12, 2014 21:29
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Yeah the Fuzz Factory is real nice too. I just thought it was out of my price range at the moment. But then I went and looked on eBay and you're right, some can be had for cheap(ish). Anything in that video where the right knob isn't cranked all the way up is fairly specific to the Blue Box. The low end random pitch changing happens more often the lower that knob is. It's got a bit of a unique sound, and if you like what's going on there, just get one. Shouldn't be hard to find a used one.
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May 12, 2014 22:27
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Holy crap, that minifooger drive sounds really cool. I wish I could find a demo that focused more on brighter settings, but I've heard enough to know they're possible. Agreed's endorsement of the design and build quality is also encouraging. They'e not too spendy either; it might make more sense to replace my decrepit Tubeworks overdrive with one of these rather than pay someone to restore it. The MF tremolo is super cool too but unfortunately doesn't do a square wave shape. What's with that?
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May 12, 2014 23:27
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Agreed posted:I'm put in a position where I've got the answer but to print it would be breaking confidence and I don't do that, ever. In my situation I reckon most would do the same (seriously, the Moog guys are super cool and I don't want to get shitcanned because I upset some of the nicest people in the business to satisfy curiosity when anyone who is reeeeally interested can reverse it themselves, you know?) Fair enough. I thought you just looked at the pcbs of the one you bought, rather than having any sort of inside info. On the building yourself front, I've found doing it to save money is the wrong approach. Build because you want something different or you like soldering or you want a hobby. Once you start talking about enclosure painting and drilling and graphics and good components, etc., it's hardly a break even proposition, especially if you value your time at more than $0/hr. One place that hasn't been mentioned is madbeanpedals.com. They have great, cheap PCBs for pretty common circuits with some nice mods built into them. I built a ge fuzz face in a 1590a and a muff that I modded with switchable diodes (LED, diode, off for each stage) off his PCBs. I use either mammoth or small bear for the rest. Mammoth does nice drilled enclosures, though some report some finishing problems.
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May 13, 2014 01:55
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Rageaholic Monkey posted:Yeah the Fuzz Factory is real nice too. I just thought it was out of my price range at the moment. But then I went and looked on eBay and you're right, some can be had for cheap(ish). The jumpy dirtiness is what the blue box is known for, pretty lively. If you're in the conus I'll sell you my barely used blue box (with box/manual I think) for around 40 depending on how much it weighs.
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May 13, 2014 02:51
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| # ? Apr 28, 2024 18:34 |
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Dishman posted:The jumpy dirtiness is what the blue box is known for, pretty lively. I actually don't have any extra money for it right at the moment, but if I'm able to sell my current fuzz on Craigslist, I'll definitely hit you up about that. I'm in Louisiana so that'll work.
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May 13, 2014 03:29
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