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Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




porksmash posted:

I definitely would if I, well, felt like it. I would rather pay someone to produce a quality piece of furniture while I work on the rest of the tank. I just heard back from a guy with 15 years of carpentry experience, and he also keeps reef tanks. He quoted me a reasonable price for a custom stand and I will gladly pay for quality. It'll pretty much be the same as this one in gloss black. I'm hoping for the effect of the tank itself being this amazing cube of color and light and motion and everything around it isn't even worth noticing. So, all black it is.

Going to paint the back of the tank as soon as I can leak test it, which is difficult with holes on the bottom and no stand. Went ahead and bought a Vortech MP10. That plus sump return should be flow enough for LPS and a couple SPS colonies here and there. Now I'm just trying to decide if I want to build my own LED fixture or buy one. A local club member was posting his Mazarra LED fixtures and they produce some beautiful light. I may be copying their LED color ratios because dammmn they're expensive.
http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=246394

have you read this thread? Lots of good stuff to think about in there about LED ratios, and how to bring out the colors of your corals and fish.

Generally the accepted conclusions of the thread.

2:1 ratio of Royal Blue to Neutral White
1:1 RB:CW is now deprecated as lacking too much red spectrum
Don't bother with UV or Cyan LEDs
Blue (called cool blue in thread to differentiate from royal blue) is a useful addin, but not too much of it
Red can be added but doesn't blend well. Look for 660nm wavelenth
Keep LEDs close together as possible to avoid "disco ball" look
diffusers also help avoid color shadows
Digital cameras cannot handle LED colors
Chinese LEDs have a lot more green and yellow, so don't look as nice in the tank.

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Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




There are some who argue that you SHOULDN'T have a skimmer on a tank, because no one really knows what, exactly, it's taking out. They're obviously wrong, but have a point. Not everything in your skimmate is biological waste from fish, and not all is harmful.

Skimmer is for sure optional on smaller reefs if you are willing to be careful with your bioload.

Ditto filters. Moe's "Aquarium Handbook: Beginners to Breeders" has a caveat on every element of a normal filter. Ammonia removal is the realm of LR and LS and bioballs or even a dirty sponge in the filter can front-load the nitrate cycle. Carbon might remove trace elements, even filter floss can be a haven for un-wanted nitrifying bacterias.

In other words, research, know what all the elements of your tank are doing, and think.

But please don't skip the water changes.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




arioch posted:

10% water change is easy/practical on up to 50gal volume, since buckets. :)

Yer gonna want some kind of pump for your bucket with a 50gal I think.

Anyways is there a way to remove nitrates from water other than anaerobic bacteria or water changes?
Deep Sand Beds scare me.

I'm cool with 10-15% changes on my tank though (especially since it's still empty), just curious.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




RndmCnflct posted:

Algae scrubber - no skimmer or water changes needed.

Looks like fuge + Mangroves will work too.

How did people answer questions before google?

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




another loser posted:

Best resource for small tanks: http://www.nano-reef.com/

More specifically: http://www.nano-reef.com/articles/

The sticky threads on their beginner's forum are pretty good too.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




arioch posted:

This works for most snails except nerites, who like to hang above the waterline just a little bit too much and can therefore end up falling off the other side.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rs/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rs/index.php <--Nerites are here!!!!
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-07/rs/index.php


Ronald L Shimek, PHD posted:

Some of the ones [Nerites] collected for sale in reef tanks are really intertidal marsh animals and have no business in a reef tank. I am not the only one who thinks so, by the way. The snails agree with me, and vote with their feet, moving out of the tank and into the wilds of the adjacent rooms. These animals will live in the tank, but seem to have a physiological need to move above the water line. At least in many cases, unlike some of the limpets, they also move back down to the water. Unfortunately, there is no good way for a hobbyist to determine if the animals offered for sale are intertidal or subtidal as the shells are quite similar.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Henchman 21 posted:



I've been looking at the aqua style 72 led set up for lighting, that should be sufficient right?

Thanks for the help so far, I'm glad I posted

Word of warning about the aquastyle kits. The LEDs are great, as are the drivers, fan and heatsinks etc.

If you are going to get or build a controller, don't get the normal drivers get the meanwell ones. If you have the money, get the meanwell ones anyways.

The potentiometers he uses are pretty poo poo though. Be aware you may have to replace them with local supply. I have one I keep on my blues that will flicker if not set to 100%. The one on my whites is solid as a rock.

Other than that, I am very happy with mine (12 royal blue, 12 4500k white (dimmed)) over a 20H.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Tanks aren't really designed to be moved with weight in them. I'd worry about splitting joints.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Injuryprone posted:

Last week I awoke to my emerald crab eating my decently sized blenny. This morning I awoke to the same crab eating the smaller, replacement blenny. I think it has contracted bloodlust.

My emerald turned giant. I was defending him against accusations of Clown-icide, but he pushes my corals around now. It's the sump for him!

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Henchman 21 posted:

Got a package from FedEx today.


Can't wait to get it finished

That will never work. You need Wires.

Seriously though. What colors did you get?

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




I went with the 6500K and have them cranked way down to match the blues better (I'm guessing this is an Aquastyle kit) 4500K should work a lot better.

Toss up a picture of it mounted up when you get to that point. Mine's mounted stupid, but I'm interested in how others approach it.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Whelp, found some Aiptasia in my main tank. Hopefully I can grab a kit tomorrow.

Meanwhile one of my favorite local stores is "Closed for Renovation" When I tried to find out when they were opening again, I came across someone who had found this crimestoppers report:

Crime Stoppers posted:

On Monday, June 25, 2012, at approximately 1:10 a.m., unknown suspect(s) gained access into Red Coral Aquarium at 2501 Alyth Road S.E., by prying open the bay door. Once inside, suspect(s) pushed over fish tanks and smashed almost every tank that had livestock (fish and coral) in them. The value of damage and the loss of livestock is estimated at $150,000.

Seething a little bit right now.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Yeah, I want to get the set with the syringe. Hope for the best.

Mind you it's one Anemone right now.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




SaNChEzZ posted:

Pro tip:

Sharpen the syringe on a whetstone to turn it into an extra large hypodermic that you can actually stab into the body of the jerk and pump it full of delicious purple stuff.

This is a good tip. It's going to take me awhile.

Got a YWG and Tiger Pistol at the same time. Lets see if I can keep these guys alive.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Man I had a lot of poo poo in my sand. Pistol shrimp has made a dust storm like nobody's business.

Should I be worried about stirring up stuff best left underground? I have a couple of Nassarius snails for just that purpose, and there's quite a few worm trails along the glass.

Guess I just have to start some mechanical filtering again.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Henchman 21 posted:

Anyone running a DIY led setup have any experience moving the leds after they have been attached for a while? With new tank comes new lighting and I would really like to re-use my current leds if possible. Was thinking about running it normal and letting it all warm up. Popping off the leds and then sanding off the old plaster

I would suggest carefully levering off the LEDs, cleaning everything with rubbing alcohol and using new plaster.

But this is from replacing CPU heatsinks, so there may be a better way.

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




I might as well ask:

Anemone in a 20G high: Bad idea, or worst idea?

(I'm thinking RBTA)

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




visuvius posted:

Yeah I wouldn't care as much if my rainbow monti didn't start closing up during the same period as when I think the nitrates started going up. I've also got a minor red algae outbreak that I'm thinking might be related.

Time to count your fish!

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Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




visuvius posted:

I posted on here a while back about a mini maxi anemone that I couldn't get rid of and ultimately tried to murder with Apstasia-X. I pumped it full of the stuff and let it sit for a while. It seemed like the application destroyed the thing. I turkey basted what was left of him out of the nook in the rock he had anchored and called it a day.

Well, a couple of months later, the motherfucker has returned. These God drat things are indestructible. Its a bit smaller, and a bit whiter, but its there.

Time for round 2.

1)Clean off the rock
2)Get some water boiling...

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