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MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Hello all, I lurked SA since the early days but only registered this year. Great that there's a saltwater discussion!

I've only been into saltwater aquariums for about 1.5yrs but I've had a very healthy successful 65gal with a 20gal sump running for over a year now. There are ~15 fish, ~15 types of coral which are predominantly soft, my favourites being toadstool leathers.

I currently have a project tank that I'm slowly building for the purpose of SPS grow-outs; it's a ~90gal 5' acrylic with 2x400W MH and the hood had T12s but I'm going to use an old T5 ballast for supplement lighting if I feel it needs it. The project is on the cheap so it's a matter of slowly acquiring pieces off of craigslist/canreef members. I really only need a skimmer and return pump now.

Full tank shot from about a month ago:



My favourite fish & coral (Starry Blenny and green polyp'd toadstool):



The sump banditos (3 flame scallops hang out with the macro algae, they're over 6 months old now.)

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MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


SaNChEzZ posted:

I may be able to lay it sideways.. Right now I have a 40w? in my 24 gal, so I'll be buying a new one for sure.

Also, for lighting on the new tank, I don't think my LED fixture will cover the whole thing, so I'm thinking of using my current fixture with a PAR38 bulb on each side. Input?

Depends on what you mean, the PARs are good for macro algae growth and saving space in a sump but I'd imagine would look pretty ugly for display use. I don't know of any that are of the usual coral growing spectrum either, but I could be wrong (10k, 12k, 14k). What were you planning on having in the tank?

I don't really get the logic of putting the heater in the overflow, it just blocks flow and if your heater is efficiently part of the system it should be heating normally/the same no matter where you put it. I have a 150w and a 300w (replacement for the StealthPro "pipe-bomb" recall) and it's got a remote thermometer so I put that in a higher flow while keeping the full body of the heater in a quiet spot.

With the summer months here now I'm more tempted to look into getting a chiller to regulate my tank as now the temperatures are above where I want them to be anyway.

[EDIT] Come to think of it, the last place I'd probably want a heater to get super hot would be an acrylic/plastic part of my tank. Take that into consideration too, that's an area with a small amount of water to dissipate heat.

MKLKT fucked around with this message at Jul 7, 2011 around 03:29

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Vitae posted:

WELP!
I ended up getting that MH system from AquaTraders, and depending on their next response to the issue I've encountered I may or may not recommend them in the future.
I can understand getting a bad part here and there, and for the price I got the unit at I'm not surprised in the least something broke, here's hoping they replace it without any issues.
Basically, I got the unit in today, unpacked and connected everything, everything looked great, powered on and was very very pleased with the light output (holy crap I've never seen a MH system before, WOAH it was bright!)
Left it on for about an hour to check and make sure everything was working as normal, was farting around on Facebook and heard a loud POP and smelled burning.
Last time I remember that happening is when I plugged in a power cord backwards in a floppy drive, yuck.
I immediately turned off and unplugged everything, the ballast was so hot it burned my hands, and judging from the smell it's definitely a burned ballast. I've send an email to AquaTraders, lets see what happens.

The saying you get what you pay for, really really is true.

Odyssea fixtures are pretty suspect in general. They're definitely in the "get what you pay for" category. I'd recommend anyone here to get involved in your national/local reef keeping forums as you can snag some wicked deals on used gear if you know what you're looking for. (i.e. I got 2x 400W MHs with electronic ballasts, 5 bulbs and LumenMax 2 reflectors for $150CAD.) Obviously it's not guaranteed with warranties though, so that has to taken into account.

Patience and research!

@arioch I should have gone back and checked, but I agree about the cost/coverage issue with that setup. I like that LEDs have advanced to the point where it's a viable option now and doesn't all cost $1,500+.

MKLKT fucked around with this message at Jul 7, 2011 around 05:22

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Vitae posted:

I started reading more about their ballasts after that incident, been hearing the same thing from a lot of people, good fixtures but bad ballasts and bulbs. I still have a CF fixture I bought from them about 4 years ago which is still going great, so never thought anything of it when I bought this new fixture.
I hope they still send a replacement, but I probably will go ahead and invest in another ballast anyway.

Edit: Question, when I replace the MH bulb what spectrum should I go with? 10k 15k 20k?

With bulbs in the 10k range I've heard you'll see great growth but can brown out SPS, 14k is pretty common for MH and 20k will give crazy colours and fluorescence but minimal growth because the spectrum is on the blue side which the zooxanthellae don't utilize much. If I had my frag tank actually running I could tell you as I have pairs of 10k, 14k and 20k. I saw someone who used strictly 20k and Actinics and it was crazy dark/glowing.

That's why you commonly see 10-12k MHs paired with Actinic T5s to supplement blue spectrum to get colouration as well.

My display tank right now has 4xT5 with a 10k, 12k, Fiji Purple and Blue+ which is pretty well as balanced as you can get.

Oh and depending on how deep your tank is the spectrum that reaches the bottom might not be exactly what you think (blue reaches the bottom easier than red).

MKLKT fucked around with this message at Jul 8, 2011 around 00:40

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Fluffy Bunnies posted:

Guy emails me and says he's going to listen to me. I say great! awesome! Go look at some gobies and firefish and poo poo like that. He says okay, he will.

Then emails my original reply to him with "Hey! Sorry I didn't get back to you! I want to put a japanese bullhead shark in my 55 gallon aquarium! Still want to help me?" kind of poo poo.

Because he thought I was a different person (same email and everything). I called him ten kinds of stupid and blocked him, because gently caress him, he's not going to listen to anything I say.

I feel sorry for that shark but there's not poo poo I can do except not get involved.

E: And thanks for telling me there really isn't anything else I can do. It makes me feel better to know I did everything I could (which was basically just typed words on an email, but at least I tried)

That kind of person doesn't deserve to own a Chromis never mind a shark. People make mistakes in this hobby for sure but willingly ignoring proper aquarium husbandry is shameful.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


That's Murphy's law of sea anemones. Also, stressing it will just invite illness/death. Like any of the livestock you get I'd honestly only move animals that have a hard time getting to a safe spot, anemones can take care of themselves for the most part.

As an anecdote: When I had one of my flame scallops in the display it made a nice home in a spot that was essentially not viewable from any side. It moved to a new spot for ~2 months but eventually got bumped out by an urchin and was stressed so I opted to put him in the sump where it's quiet. Ironically now that I put it with the others on the DSB in my sump they all bunched up in the front all nice and visible.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


SaNChEzZ posted:

My LFS said that marineland told them to have their customers send them directly to them, which is silly because we'd be out of a heater for XX days.

But yeah, this is the first I've heard of it. I dunno what it covers specifically, but the Stealth is definitely involved.

My LFS was nice enough to just give me store credit towards a different brand. Like someone else said, you're lucky it just stopped working and wasn't in the "pipebomb" category of failures. They were recalled for exploding causing physical damage and harm.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Cowslips Warren posted:

I read that way back in the days before people could keep anemones alive for long, people used Koosh balls to get clownfish to breed.

Speaking of breeding, anyone here had luck with breeding Bangaii cardinalfish? I've read they are considered the guppies of the marine world....but I haven't been able to keep guppies alive for years.

I have a longspine urchin that I'm sure would love some Bangaiis but my tank is a bit too aggressive for them I think. When I get my frag tank up and running I may try a few urchins and a handful of cardinals and let 'em at it.

I attempted to try out a tiger cowrie recently but it was just too heavy (mangled my rockwork a bit) so I returned him to the LFS along with the rock-boring urchin as it also caused me a lot of headaches in regards to the stability of my aquascaping.

Picked up a pair of white porcelain crabs, they've settled nicely with one on the giant toadstool and another on my other big yellow leather.

For my frag tank project I snagged a Precision Marine Bullet 2 skimmer with gate valve and pump that was used at my LFS for $99, pretty stoked about that. Anyone else have some wicked deals lately?

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


I was gonna say we haven't had pics in a bit. That crab looks mighty crafty.

A pair of fun ones here, I bought 2 porcelain crabs and one has opted to host a "tree house" in the big leather.



Conches... conching. ( kinda)

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Dono posted:

I dont think I can stress taking your time enough. The glass on this tank was thin so it only took me a minute or two to get through it, but I made sure I had a hose running excessive amounts of water over where the drill was cutting into. Definitely kept the drill at a faster speed, the first try where I messed up the drill got caught on the glass because it was going too slow and cracked it.

Also, I would take advantage of Amazons free shipping deal to order in the correct size diamond hole saw bits while you still can. Most hardware stores (ACE, Home Depot, Lowes, etc) won't carry them.

The easiest way to remember to take your time is that you aren't actually "drilling" the glass so much as sanding it in a circular shape. So you gotta give the particles of glass enough time to get ground out. It'll crack if you put pressure on it because it's still connected to the rest of the pane.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Like SaNChEzZ, I've also started SPS. I collected some frags from local reefers, I picked up a variety to see how each one does in my tank. I also snagged some $1 brown frags from my LFS which have already coloured up really well. Here's a shot of my tank with the two frag racks:



Right frags:



Left frags (the milli has '80s hot-pink colouration):

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Elem7 posted:

I have 2 LED fixtures that don't include fans and if they're on full blast they get pretty hot after about an hour. Not so hot that I can't keep my hand on them for an extended time but they're not to far from that.

The biggest issue I'm aware of from over heating LEDs is that supposedly it can cut thier lifespan down significantly, as much as half.

Yeah, the heat problem isn't like MH where you're more or less trying to keep your water temperature down. LEDs need to be kept cool themselves or else they'll have lifespan/burnout problems.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Melchior posted:

I've been selling some of my spare frags on Craigslist lately, and let me tell you that site brings out the worst in people. One guy has sent me no less than twenty five emails about two $10 frags. poo poo or get off the pot, dude.

I bought a tank w/livestock setup and sold one before on CL and won't bother again, the buyers tend to be clueless or flaky and often do the "Oh, I only brought this much cash" or don't come with any cash and then I have to wait another hour for them to get their poo poo together. I only use local reef forums for buying and selling now and I've scored some great deals and met awesome reefers.

Anyone else get some saltwater goods for boxing day (or just Christmas for you non-Canucks)? I snagged a really nice coco worm as well as a pocci colony that had a purple-orange pocci/acro crab with it too. I also bought a solid 6-12 month supply of food and additives.

As for the drug deal looking part, this spring I bought a pair of halide high-bays from a guy and was carrying them to my car and there was a police squad car about two houses up across the street. The cops didn't care or notice I guess. The kicker I realized afterwards was this was on April 20th.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


SaNChEzZ posted:

Aquastyle 72LED kit came in today Man these suckers are bright! Gunna start laying out the LEDs on the heatsink tonight

Love getting new gear, especially stuff to DIY and tinker with.

Here are two shots from yesterday, one has the new frag rack I bought and two of the SPS colonies I got for boxing day prices (you can see the pocci crab, too). Second shot is of my other frag rack with all the different colours and types of SPS I've collected so far.

The egg crate cage is protection for a couple of zoa colonies I got that would otherwise be eaten by my foxface. The birdsnest in the foreground was only because it was damaged so I'm hoping it recovers.


MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


nwin posted:

I've kept a few freshwater tanks now and I really want to plunge into saltwater. The thing is, being in the military I'm moving every 2-3 years. Because of that, I'd rather do something small that I can just break down when I move and either sell the frags/fish or give them away to an lfs.

So I've been looking on Craigslist and have found a 14g biocube with stand and skimmer for 200. Thinking about jumping on it but just wanted to see everyone's thoughts on going with a small tank for my first sw. Obviously I know a bigger tank will be more forgiving, but I don't feel like breaking down a 55g/stand every few years, plus landlords seem to get a bit hesitant when they see a large tank set up on their new hardwood floors/carpet.

The nice thing with BioCubes is that there are tons of people that own them and lots of documentation on reef forums to modify or upgrade them if you wish. I owned a 14g for a bit as a secondary tank and it was good, I prefer larger but having the all in one is a great learners setup.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


nwin posted:

From some reading I've done online, it seems everyone uses distilled water or uses an RO system. With freshwater I was fine using tap water. Not the case here?

At a minimum use one of the Aquarium Pharmaceuticals DI filters that attaches to your tap. The problem is that saltwater tanks that have coral and other invertebrates are intolerant to a lot of the stuff that is okay to drink and is acceptable in drinking water. You also don't do full water changes so these impurities are either being added or slowly accumulating in your live rock/sand, etc.

Having the water de-ionized helps you know that what you're putting in (salt mixes have calcium and other trace elements) is consistent and predictable. I haven't measured any levels in my tank in probably 2 months because of the predictability and the few times I do it's exactly what I thought. Tap water tends to have a bit of nitrates and phosphates in it which is what algae feeds off of and bothers most livestock you do want to keep.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


a duck posted:

I bought a closed brain coral a while back and due to improper care by a roommate while I was gone, it almost completely died over the summer. When I got back, it was almost completely white rock save for a little patch on the top. Since I've been back, it has grown back all the brown fleshy stuff, but lacks the green color in between that it used to have (i.e. like this picture http://i.imgur.com/Rr9yW.jpg ). Little tube-like structures appear and disappear in the parts where the green parts were. Anyone have any idea what is going on here? Should I expect it to recover its original color at some point, and if so, any idea how long this should take? It has been about 4 months since the brown flesh has completely grown back.

What kind of lighting do you have? If you're using a red spectrum often corals will grow well but lack colouration. I don't have experience with brain corals but by the sounds of it it's healthy again.

PS Sanchezz, what's the length of that light you're selling?

MKLKT fucked around with this message at Jan 9, 2012 around 02:32

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Cowslips Warren posted:

I don't shop at Petco but was meeting someone there yesterday, and the Petco had the largest goddamn arrow crab I have ever seen. From leg to leg, as if you were measuring the aquarium glass, it was nearly six inches, and the thing wasn't exactly stretched out. No wonder all the fish were at the other end of the drat 'tank.'

The LFS near me has had a few arrows that if you stretched the legs out are about 1'. They looked like striders from Half-Life 2. I like unusual animals like that.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


optikalus posted:

Sure; the tank is a Mr. Aqua 11.4 gallon frameless. The light is a 7x CREE XR-E PAR38 bulb from RapidLED. It is plugged into a cheap swing arm lamp base clamped to my desk. The protein skimmer is a AquaMAXX HOB-1. I'm not totally satisfied with this skimmer as it doesn't seem to do anything but fill the tank with microbubbles or fill the cup with water. My co-worker bought one after I got mine and his skimmate is thick and green, so my tank's bioload just may be too small to notice anything.

Skimmers operate best when the water level is consistent so you can avoid fiddling with it after it's dialed in. You stated you have an ATO though, so I'm curious as to why it's not quite right. Even without much of a bio-load you should still see reasonable bubble generation.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Melchior posted:

Has anyone had their acros let out thin white strands? Not the usual 'i'm pissed off' slime strands but more like tentacles. I've heard it's a 'feeding response' but what does that mean exactly - do they WANT food or did they LIKE food I gave them?'

I recently put a giant glob of chaeto in my sump so my nitrates have probably been falling a bit, which is why I was wondering.

The acros I have aren't big yet but I've seen them have the feeding strands out, I don't have the capacity to turn my whole system off to feed them in suspension but I still get a decent response during feeding.

Using the freeze dried Reef Roids right now but I bought a few sticks of frozen Cyclopeeze that I'm going to try out soon when I've used the dry stuff up. SPS are majority photosynthetic anyway and I've had good colouring up and growth while feeding them randomly.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Melchior posted:

Mine host in a Sinularia and it's almost as worthy of porno music.

My clowns just started hosting this week! They share the giant toadstool leather with the Starry Blenny.

Clip of the hosting:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIqx2y6lk_Y


I also snagged a decent clip of two of my acro frags with the long feeders out (centre/right foreground):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vqkpO7UqLKk

Full tank comparison of about 8-10 months of growth, that Sinularia is about the size of a basketball now and the toadstool is easily 1' across:
Early 2011


Jan 2012

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Internet Explorer posted:

Hey, question for you on the Toadstool Leather. I have one and it looks similar to the one you have in your second picture at the bottom of the tank. I have had it for about 6 months. Will it ever look like the one your clowns are hosting in, or is it a different type of Toadstool Leather? The polyps are much smaller on mine, similar to the one at the bottom of your tank in the second picture. Any idea?

The polyps on the bottom one are much more flower like and fine compared to the big one, I think given enough light it would probably grow similar to the large one (I keep meaning to move it up but there's not much real estate in my tank). I'd say it's more dependent on the size that the crown(?) gets that would help. I'd be inclined to say that if it's squishy there's a chance it can be hosted as each species and pairing is different. The smaller one tends to be bothered by contact moreso as well.

Personally I love toadstool leathers, when I get around to it I'm going to rip more of the Anthelia out and put more permanent fixture colonies. (There's a frag hiding in the back of that big toadstool that I did a test cut; it grew a stalk 3" high already from being a 1" slab of the crown).

I'm curious about the consensus of who does/doesn't do water changes among us here. I personally do not do water changes, I think I've done *maybe* 3 partial (20-30%) water changes in the 1.5yrs I've had the system running. And have had decent growth/colour on SPS as well with only one or two bleachings due to physical damage.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


SaNChEzZ posted:

So you just top off?

Yeah, I built a garbage bin reservoir and attached it to an Eshopps float valve. I check the salt level with a refractometer every other month just to make sure it hasn't shifted and if any corals aren't happy I check the other parameters. I've got plenty of animals considered sensitive and they're all well (2 types of urchin, linkia seastar, 2 feather dusters, 1 coco worm, etc.)

The only portion I have a hard time controlling is tank temperature; it's also located in front of a window so the back + right side get natural sunlight during the day. The heat killed my flame scallops and peppermint shrimp in the summer, I was not pleased.

My parameters are a salt level of 35ppm @ 27C that I prefer to have, works out to be 1.026 SG/78F I think. I occasionally dose Reef Code A&B as well as I have activated carbon/phos-x/purigen in 2 reactors.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Nanos are a different beast, my sump also has a not exactly fancy Coralife skimmer, deep sand bed and a handful of random macro algae (a red botryocladia being the largest). I prefer the system to be fairly robust and it's proven correct so far.

While having a super 'clean' system is nice, I personally think if the animals are too used to it there's an unnatural razor's edge of stability where any tiny thing throws the whole system out. That being said there are things I will change when I move up tank sizes in a few years, I've been accumulating parts for an intense system but I'm not in a rush.

If you focus on the small parts of the tank the rest takes care of itself. (i.e. focusing on the bacteria and microfauna/flora aspect) And research the poo poo out of whatever you're going to buy, do it ahead of time so that if you ever have a chance to pick up livestock you already know what you're dealing with.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Sadly I've been dealing with what I can now best diagnose as Marine Velvet, I've lost half of my fish and the others are recovering. There hasn't been any consistent symptom and no new fish were added in almost a year. The only stressor might have been the cold snap we had in January that dropped the tank temp greater than usual. I needed a medication that was "reef safe" enough i.e. no copper. I decided to try Metronidazole bound to food with Focus (both Seachem products) and added garlic concentrate, too. The meds are supposed to be effective for various bacterial and parasitic infections. They weren't expensive (~$5/week of treatment) and not harmful on the fish like a lot of the other medications are; however, it is not a quick solution like dips are so I can't recommend it for all situations.

The flipside to all this is that my corals are doing amazing and my SPS have had consistent and quite full polyp extension since I started medicating. It's been depressing to say the least. No deaths of inverts (urchins, feather dusters, star fish, coco worm, etc.) either.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


nwin posted:

Is it a good idea to add peppermints only one day into setting up the tank though?

You could just take the rock out briefly and chip the chunk of rock off with the aiptasia on it. Not like you have any livestock yet to disturb.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Elem7 posted:

I have a similiar situation as you though my tanks not nearly as old, most of the CA on my glass is green. On my overflow and my pumps however it's purple, and on my rocks it's hard to tell as some of it was live rock with heavy purple CA to begin with but I know there's been at least some green growth on rock that didn't have it.

Whatever the cause is it's not low calcium, my tank has abnormally high(550+) calcium. I think it may partially come down to light intensity, I'm using LEDs that don't really cover the glass significantly but the overflow and pumps are positioned more inside thier coverage as well the one rock that I know has green CA spreading is off to the side and the areas it's heaviest are shaded.

What's your dKh with such a high Calcium level? You'll get way better growth with proper balance, greater calcium doesn't equate to optimum growth. Coralline algae can be all sorts of colours, if you want a purple type you could just borrow or buy a chunk of LR with that colour on it and then use a toothbrush in the tank to scrape the surface of it spreading particles into the water.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Sorry, the colour response was more directed at the other poster. I forgot you had addressed that as well. The calcium level is likely high because the carbonates are probably precipitating with something other than calcium (have you checked your magnesium level at all?) 8 is actually a good level to have, between 7 and 10 and you're golden. For what it's worth I have a similar scenario personally, I dose lots of Reef Code B (Carbonates) but don't have to dose calcium and it's still about 8/480.

I only get green CA on my glass, although after I stopped scraping for ~4 months purple finally showed up on it. I decided that I prefer the crystal clear look and scraped it off last week, however.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


nwin posted:

Yeah, I have the feed door propped open for now, but once I get that jawfish I won't want to leave that open! Glad to know the fans I link to will work just as is, so that's good. I have a Hydor Pico 1200 for the return right now.

I'll keep your suggestions in mind. Thanks!

If you're worried about jumpers, be careful with that back wall, the ceiling of the lid doesn't come down far enough to stop jumping into the chambers. I lost a fish that way when I owned a Biocube 14.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Internet Explorer posted:

Man, that is beautiful. Some sort of Sea Fan?

Looks like a blueberry Gorgonian.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


revmoo posted:

Yikes. I just realized I haven't done a water change since before Thanksgiving. Funny thing is, the corals all look fine still.

I generally only do two a year, and ~20% during that. I just did one yesterday, everything's happy now.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


nwin posted:

You are correct. I'm thinking I'll install a fan or two where the feeder lid is so it moves over the water. Only question is if I want them blowing cool air in or pulling hot air out. I worry about them blowing out because then won't you have condensation moving over/through the fans which will shorten their life?

Hard to say, in this case I think blowing cooler air from the outside is going to benefit more (assuming the vent slots are big enough for air to flow out the back/sides) otherwise you're pulling hot air from the bulbs down to the water.

I think the best method would be to have air being pulled into the feed door or back, and then cut out the sides of that splash guard and have both of the top fans blowing air outwards.

Or just do the cover/rimless mod and enjoy!

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Internet Explorer posted:

Have you seen this? Another "I can't recommend it enough."

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964

MY GIRLFRIEND and I built the stand for our 90g with 40g breeder sump and it is solid as a rock. We had very little prior woodworking experience. The one thing I will say is use a miter saw / chop saw over a circular saw. Consistent length cuts are key.

Ugh, I bought a tank/stand setup off someone for $100 to turn into scrap parts for my other projects and it had a 6' version of this plus even more supports and solid wood panel sides. The thing easily weighed north of 400lbs, drat near killed me and my buddy.

(I figured out how to take the panels off AFTER we got it in the van.)

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Morbid Florist posted:

What size tank was this stand for?

I made one for my BC14 and while it's definitely too strong for what it needs to hold up, I can still move it myself even if it's a struggle. I really think the 2x4s are overkill for something 20gal or less. Chairs hold up 250lbs and don't need wood that thick.

It's a custom acrylic (which is comically light weight) that works out to 100g, it was a tall, skinny and ugly room divider, but I got my money's worth in all the parts that came with it.

I will also have to do a tank move soon as my parents are selling their place which is where my tank lives. I will be moving into a suite wherever they end up so I'll be able to build the system as I see fit. (Hoping that I can snag a closet or storage area to make a fish room.) The size and type of tank I use depends on the exact location I end up with though.

The recommendations about the sand are correct, I bought my tank off of CL originally and had to do a move. I siphoned water into 3 giant rubbermaid containers, put the LR in two of them and the animals in the other. Then I drained the water right down to the sand level and carried the system out that way. Your experience doing that might not go so well if there is too much weight (glass + sand + water)

Remember covers for the containers and drive slow! I had to drive mine a city over through areas that aren't unlike Seattle.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Russian Dollies posted:

Quick question: We just put in a yellow watchman goby and a tiger pistol shrimp this last weekend. The shrimp is bulldozing all through the underside of the LR and through the holes in it as well. As a result, sand is piling up on the bottom areas of the rock. I vaguely recall someone saying that sand shouldn't be allowed to settle and sit on LR. Should I be moving the sand off the rock or is it ok to leave it since its only on the bottom areas?

You should kinda try to have enough flow so that settling can't happen anyway. Odds are your little digger will find an equilibrium soon.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


SaNChEzZ posted:

sup moving buddy. So on Sunday I drilled, plumbed and set up the 40br at our new place. All went well and everything is still thriving.

Now to figure out how the hell to quiet down that drat drain.

What type of sound issues are you having? I will soon be a moving buddy as well, parents sold their place where my tank is and I'll be moving into a separate suite wherever they go and I'm going to use the opportunity to build a big setup.

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


SaNChEzZ posted:

Quote =/= edit. Anyway:


I'll try this too once I make a rack or a holder for a sock.

I use soft vinyl tubing for the overflow piping with a soft bend into the sump with a filter floss basket at the bottom wrapped tightly to avoid air gulps. I had tried to build essentially the same thing as you and it drove me nuts because of the sound. You can get a gradual 45 elbow PVC pipe (spreads the corner over roughly 1' instead of 2", I'd imagine that would remove a lot of the impact that is causing the sound.

I believe the optimal situation is where you have the water flow exactly so it's clinging to the outside edges of the tubing with as minimal surface interruption along its path.

MKLKT fucked around with this message at May 2, 2012 around 22:02

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


Malalol posted:

Help. D:
I've got a clownfish (dunno what kind but its rather big) floating in a bag in my tank...I don't have saltwater. Someone dropped it off at work and nobody wanted it, and we're not allowed to put it back into our tanks.

I have another place interested in him but how long can he stay in the bag without...dying? Its not a special breather bag afaik, just a regular Petco one and hes floating to stay warm. Overnight? 24 hr? 2 days?
I dont know how theyre supposed to swim either, hes not swimming around, just kind staying in place and tilting from side to side it looks very odd.

He's gonna need some oxygen, I've never had experience with shipped fish but eventually the water is going to gain ammonia and lose its oxygen.

porksmash... What's the gate valve on the return pump for?

MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/...+665&pcatid=665

Likely a Rhodactis.

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MKLKT
Oct 21, 2010

...armed with five-five-sixers, and pineapples.


nwin posted:

What's the big deal with SPS anyways? I'm a noob to the saltwater thing, but most the SPS I see doesn't look all that great for the extra dosing and hyper-sensitivity people on nano-reef say they seem to have.

You'll likely grow into it as you get more into the hobby.


I've got the move-in date for my new place (early August) and I've already pre-purchased a new tank from a local reefer who's also upgrading his. I'll be setting up a snazzy new 110 gallon in my new place ~(48"x30"x18") I snagged 2x400W Halides with nice reflectors and a bunch of extra bulbs and a PM Bullet-2 skimmer for super cheap a while back so I'll be using those. I calculated out the cost to get an LED setup and it wasn't worth it for me here. Tank seller is selling his Reef Brights for about half price but from the research I've done it's still not really worth it.

Not sure exactly how I want to do the transfer, probably new sand and keep the live rock, tear off all the Anthelia and poo poo I don't want as well as sell off some of the fish/crabs that don't play nicely. Suggestions/experiences?

[edit] That link is good, I've been looking to shift my method slightly as I will be going mostly SPS with the exception of a few toadstools and sinularia species.

MKLKT fucked around with this message at May 28, 2012 around 23:00

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