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Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

I would really love a reef tank, but something is bugging me. How possible is it to stick to aquacultured livestock?

I have found some live rock and fish specifically labeled as aquacultured, but not much, and I'm guessing it's "wild-caught unless stated otherwise."

I realize the aquarium trade is nowhere near the magnitude of other threats to reefs, but I don't want to pluck critters off a reef for my living room.

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Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

streetlamp posted:

Its much easier now, online retailers like liveaquaria have a huge amount of aquacultured livestock.

That site looks pretty great, although I am tragically Canadian. It is good to know that it's possible, and I will see what I can find that doesn't involve putting fish through customs.

I have a new question, while I am at it. I'm pretty blown away by the concept of nano tanks. Are they really hard to manage? I have only had freshwater tanks, and marine is obviously a whole different world, but how much does size make a difference in chemical fluctuations and such? I was thinking I was going to have to go for 60+ gallons, but I'd be happy with less if I am not putting livestock at risk by being a newbie.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

I like Reef Central. It's more stodgy, but I find the ratio of newbie:knowledgeable better. The last time I looked at NanoReef's chemistry forum the most popular question appeared to be "do i need to use ro water????" whereas RC's is more like, "how do i vodka dose???"

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

porksmash posted:

Any specific risks by doing this?

You shouldn't have any problems, but that doesn't mean you won't. I'd see if you can find out if it's tempered, because drilling is worth it in terms of peace of mind.

I've seen people run dual overflow boxes for redundancy, but that seems like a lousy solution on a new setup.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Is it possible that the softies don't like the amount of flow in the tank? Two K3s is pretty hardcore in a 33g.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Mesh: $9
Shipping to Canada: $15

:argh:

Still beats buying a roll though.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Melchior posted:

stuff

1. Just test and let it sit for a while.
2. Sounds like you've got the Nova Extreme Pro. I have the same fixture on a Solana right now, and my SPS are perfectly happy.
3. Quarantine. Just get a small tank, a heater and a HOB filter. A freshwater dip is not enough to eradicate ich, and marine ich is a bitch and a half to deal with once you've got it in your display.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Melchior posted:

That's the thing. It isn't just a freshwater dip. A friend told me he starts off all of his new fish in quarantine at like 1.013. Drops them in right from the store, they freak out for awhile, and he gradually increases the salt content in the quarantine tank over ~3 weeks. By the time the quarantine tank is back up to standard salinity ich's lifecycle is long complete.

Apparently OST can make ich parasites basically 'explode' so I'm not sure that a month in quarantine is necessary, but hey the dude overthinks everything.

Hyposalinity is a big stressor, especially with no gradual drop. 1.013 isn't low enough to kill ich, either; it needs to be 1.009-1.010 consistently. Too high and ich survives, too low and you kill the fish. It requires daily monitoring of pH/ammonia/nitrates, to boot, because hyposaline tanks are unstable.

So a lot of people gently caress up. If you do it perfectly, you're still piling hyposalinity stress on top of shipping/retailer stress. Too easy to kill an otherwise healthy fish.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

My clown spends a lot of time just swimming against the powerhead.

Spectrum pellets are good food. I feed Spectrum pellets and frozen mysis, emerald entree and cyclopeeze.

You're probably American, but here's a Canadian store selling the ORA food, if you really want it: http://www.reefaquatica.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_2_110

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

a duck posted:

I've read that hammers and frogspawn won't sting each other so you can put them close together...is that really true? Some people at the LFS i've talked to said both will sting any type of coral no matter what, but some online stores say the opposite, so it's hard to know what to really believe.

I have euphyllia touching with no problems, and I have definitely seen sweeper tentacles from the torch.

Of course your mileage may vary.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

I sprung for a nice Geisemann MH/T5 light to replace my clamp-on MH, and oh wow. I think I am in love.

This is Expensive Acquisition #1 in my upgrade plan. #2 is the rimless starfire cube I just ordered from Miracles. I am retardedly excited. I really need some fish-nerd friends to share this with, because everyone thinks I am nuts.

Everyone except my Geisemann light. It understands me.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Often euphyllids tolerate other euphyllids well enough. I have two torches, a hammer and a bubble that are close enough to sting each other.

If you try to isolate them and use your powerheads to push sweepers away from other corals, I think they can work fine in a 29 gal.

You might want to consider duncans and elegance if you like flowy LPS, although the latter can be touchy.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Keeping an octopus is pretty rare even in the marine hobby. I would start with easier, hardier livestock because nothing turns people away from the hobby faster than killing a bunch of stuff.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

I have a tunze silence return and it is genuinely silent, but it's only pushing about half of what a mag12 would be.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Cowslips Warren posted:

What, if any, are some species of sea stars or brittle stars that would do good in a small, say 20 gallon, tank? 55?

Always debating on a marine tank. I'm in love with Banggai cardinals and would love to do a small 55 setup with them.

The trouble with sea stars in a small tank is that they starve. Lots of people would say you'd be fine with one in a 55 with a deep sand bed, but personally I wouldn't.

Shaman Ooglaboogla posted:

Has anyone found a reliable low energy system? I had a fish tank (a great 50 gal, I would post pictures if I could find them) but it cost easily 200 dollars a month in just energy. The lights especially ate up so much.

200 dollars a month sounds bizarre. Where do you live?

I have a 60 gal reef lit with metal halide and I spend <$25 in increased hydro.

Trillian fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Jun 16, 2011

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Anony Mouse posted:

I was messing around with my aquarium tonight and the furtive shape of some strange crustacean darting across the sand caught my eye. I tried to get a clear picture of it, but he was moving too fast. By the time I switched to video, he had pretty much disappeared under a rock:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylNYsz7WQyI

Does anyone know what this is? I'm sure it's harmless, but I'm pretty curious now.

As a bonus: Copepod close-up! :3:

It's an amphipod. My sandbed is covered with them until the lights come on.

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

arioch posted:

For that kind of thing I can't recommend the Vortech MP10W ES enough. It's a perfect fit for the BC14.

Really? I mean, I know people do this, but I have two MP10s on my 50 and I don't run them at max. How is it not a complete sandstorm on a 14?

Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Anony Mouse posted:

So I've got quite the macroalgae problem. It's growing errywhere in my tank. What's the best way to get rid of it? More frequent water changes? More herbivorous fish? Different lighting?

What kind of macroalgae?

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Trillian
Sep 14, 2003

Anony Mouse posted:

I don't know, really. It grows in thick clumps of hairs or strands, kind of like a green shag carpet. I'll take some pics tomorrow in the daylight.

Sounds like hair algae, a common problem. Not much eats it. You need to look into controlling nutrients. More skimming, less feeding, and phosphate remover are probably the first steps.

It's a bitch.

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