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It also looks like the dude put a bevel on the edge  He must have ground towards the edge instead of away from it, introducing a burr that had to be removed, and rounded off what was supposed to be sharp. That doesn't explain the gap though.
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| # ? Feb 26, 2011 08:15 |
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| # ? May 18, 2013 16:48 |
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Does anyone know where I can find drafting templates that are made of metal instead of plastic? I've got a project in the works that's going to require measuring, marking, drilling, and filing various sizes of aluminum stock with a reasonable degree of accuracy, and I'd rather not be dragging a scribe around plastic templates. Searching has turned up...nothing. Apparently I'm getting too old to operate Google properly.
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| # ? Feb 27, 2011 15:31 |
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What do you have to transfer to the aluminium? If it's mostly straight lines and angles, I would just get a metal ruler and an adjustable protractor. Angles: http://ecatalog.starrett.com/Default.aspx#297 Circles: (gotta do it manually though) http://ecatalog.starrett.com/Default.aspx#303 The circles will only be as accurate as your measurement on a ruler though. Or were you looking for some specific shapes?
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| # ? Feb 27, 2011 18:03 |
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Upon further reading of the plans (for the Momus Design CNC router table) it looks like I can actually use a plain ol' fine-tip marker for most things, and will in fact only need to scribe the occasional straight line. I'm also apparently getting too old for reading comprehension. I do appreciate the links to the Starrett catalog though. We've got some of their dial indicators in the tool crib at work, but I didn't know they had such a wide range of other tools. There might be a nice metal protractor in my immediate future. 
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| # ? Feb 27, 2011 19:08 |
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New project time. Cutting the dovetails in some custom lathe tool holders. HSS cutter on "very very hard" steel and with only four flutes means sloooooooooooooow feed rate. This pass took about 10 minutes.  Because of the low feed rate and steady coolant stream to carry them, a stalagmite of chips formed.     I had enough time to do one pass with the dovetail cutter before we got kicked out due to snow. The cutter probably could have done full depth in one pass, but I didn't have an easy way to zero it and this gives me a datum. A little trig and I'll know how much to shift the table for full depth.  65sfpm with a 1.2" OD cutter means ~200rpm. 10 flutes and a .00025 chipload(pointy teeth are very weak) means a mere half inch per minute feed rate. Those blocks are 1.7"x1.7" so each pass is 15 minutes of .
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| # ? Feb 28, 2011 23:23 |
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That's awesome man. You guys' horizontal mill has power feeds, at least, right?
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 00:00 |
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1. So, did you guys ever actually concur that it would be ok to make a draw knife out of leaf spring? Or would I find out that its frustratingly inadequate in some way? 2. Also, how should I finsih this Stanley hand plane I'm working on? I swear the whole thing is made out of tool steel; I've been sanding of the tarnish and gouge marks and pits and rust with emory paper (starting at 50, 80, 150, 180, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1500) by hand and I'm just not getting anywhere very quick. Even when I take out the grinder with an 80 grit abrasive wheel (which I was initially super reluctant to do) I'm surprised how slowly it removes material. Then I work my way back down with a 150 grit flap wheel and start back at the bottom of the chain of emory paper... Anyway, assuming I'm ever happy with my sanding job, what should I put on the metal to prevent further tarnishing? Let's work under the assumption that its tool steel or at least high-carbon steel. No chrome, at the very least; Its like 40+ years old, so I wouldn't be surprised if it were just carbon-and-iron steel. I've seen that blacksmiths sometimes put oil on a finished piece and then burn it, leaving that black finish; is this comparable to "black oxide" like you see on drill bits (at least in a much more primitive form)? Should I just rub some oil on it? Should I coat it in beeswax?
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 03:31 |
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The body is almost certainly cast, so it would be carbon+iron and very hard. I would paint it, personally. Don't add heat to it to get that black oxide coating, heat makes iron deform unless it's added uniformly, and since planes are semi-precision things, this could be bad. You probably wouldn't hurt it, but it's not worth risking in my opinion. Why are you grinding and sanding the hell out of it anyway? If there's paint on it, that's a good thing, it means it probably isn't rusty underneath. The blade will be some kind of high carbon tool steel, just put some oil on it so it doesn't rust.
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 03:48 |
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Well I'm only grinding and sanding the faces of it, cause they had a lot of gouges and pits in them, plus a little rust but moreover just a bunch of grime and tarnish. The inside is I think japanned, and I'm not gonna gently caress with it besides brushing it out (I might have to take a wire brush to a couple spots if they are pitted with rust). I was concerned about painting the faces for the same reason I'm bothering to sand 'em: I want them to be nice and uniform. Plus do you think the paint would just rub off? I guess my original intent was to put up on ebay (stanley plane bought for $10 at a flea market, I thought, fixed up would fetch a decent profit) but looking on ebay, that seems downright silly now, they go for just over what I payed for it when it was lovely. I already put so much effort into it I think I might as well just keep it. But I think your right and I'm putting way to much effort into it for no good reason. What paint would you suggest? Its already got black japaning on the inside, I'd like to match that if possible to a reasonable degree (and make it look nice). Don't get a paint sprayer (or air compressor) though.
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 04:35 |
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I need a picture before I can suggest anything.
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 04:49 |
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I'm really interested in metal working, but I live in an apartment and probably won't be moving into a house for at least a few years. Is there any way to do this in an apartment, or do I have to have a lot of space?
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 13:51 |
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Sam. posted:I'm really interested in metal working, but I live in an apartment and probably won't be moving into a house for at least a few years. Is there any way to do this in an apartment, or do I have to have a lot of space? Without garage space or a back-yard with a bit of clearance between you and the building, I would not be involved in any metalworking that involves welding. Without any way to contain the spatter, you're going to set something (everything) on fire. Is there a local community college that offers a welding course? That seems like the best way to get started, and it would give you the room you need...
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 14:00 |
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Sam. posted:I'm really interested in metal working, but I live in an apartment and probably won't be moving into a house for at least a few years. Is there any way to do this in an apartment, or do I have to have a lot of space? I live in an apartment. I just moved here from 4.3 acres out in the woods with a huge house, huge garage, a barn my dad and I built, a whole bunch of fence we put up (which sucks by the way, putting up fence is the worst), 4 horses and a tractor. It sucks. The only thing I ever do inside the apartment is like little artistic things out of sheet metal with just a pair of tin snips and a ruler and compass to mark them. Also, I've made cool little things out of copper wire by wrapping and weaving it (this turns out pretty good, actually). On the balcony, I sharpen chisels and sometimes sand stuff.... but I make a huge mess. Emery from the emery paper stains my hands and makes dust like coal, its like loving paint. Everything else I do, which is nothing really serious, like this project I'm working on with the stanley hand plane, and this chisel sharpening jig I made, is out in the parking lot. We actually have this little car-port thing that's open to everyone for use for cleaning your car, it has a coin operated vacuum and water hose. I do a lot of stuff in there 'cause there's a power outlet. I asked the maintenance guy, and he said it was ok, and I've asked neighbors if the noise ever bothers them and they said no. Also, we're renting one of those storage rooms at another location, and its a good option for doing work because its in an industrial/commercial zoned area and I know I'm not bothering anybody. But I don't do any welding. And I pine for a permanent shop, like if we rented one of the garages at our appt. complx, so I could have stationary power tools. Like a drill press. Which I have been yearning for SO HARD for so long. And a stationary belt sander.
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 14:50 |
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The Scientist posted:Well I'm only grinding and sanding the faces of it, cause they had a lot of gouges and pits in them, plus a little rust but moreover just a bunch of grime and tarnish. The inside is I think japanned, and I'm not gonna gently caress with it besides brushing it out (I might have to take a wire brush to a couple spots if they are pitted with rust). I was concerned about painting the faces for the same reason I'm bothering to sand 'em: I want them to be nice and uniform. Plus do you think the paint would just rub off?
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 15:14 |
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By the way, thanks to both you and Slung for the answers to my endless questions. 
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| # ? Mar 1, 2011 15:15 |
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The Scientist posted:You guys' horizontal mill has power feeds, at least, right? Yup, geared power feed on all three axes  , so no slowing down when it plows the cutter into the table because you forgot and left the Z axis engaged.edit: Now with pictures. We have two horizontal mills, this one is a Milwaukee Model H. 2hp, 16 speed gearbox. I know it was WW2 surplus, not sure on exactly when it was made. Works like a champ, even if it needs some coaxing into gear sometimes. These show up for sale for under a grand in working condition, rebuildable for under $500.  The lever at the top, poking out from behind the vise, is the clutch engagement for coolant pump, power feed, and cutter. The controls on the front, left to right, are the feed speed, Y axis(down-up), and Z axis(out-in). These two axes have the power feed lever built in, you can see I'm feeding the Y axis up. The Z axis lever is up higher, just under the angle plate. The long lever to the right of the controls engages the rapid feed clutch.  As you can see, it can be difficult to both operate the controls AND see what's going on. oxbrain fucked around with this message at Mar 2, 2011 around 22:31 |
| # ? Mar 1, 2011 18:04 |
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A ferrofluid Sculpture http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUz1ZI-w6LQ
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| # ? Mar 4, 2011 04:25 |
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Hey guys I've been meaning to put these pictures up for a while now. Here's some furniture I've been making. More pictures as I get more orders will follow.  You can see my little garage set-up I have.  I only took this photo for you metal heads here. Most people wouldn't appreciate. Anyway, yeah, so I TIG weld these tables together. I know that MIG would be easier, but I don't own a MIG welder. I have an AC/DC CC inverter (that ugly kinda burgundy colored thing in the back corner of the first photo). I also supremely enjoy TIG welding and stick welding so  dealz wit it! Here we are getting a little closer to being done. I sand and paint the frames and tile the tops. I really enjoy tile setting as well as metal working and romantic walks on the beach.  And done.
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| # ? Mar 4, 2011 17:38 |
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Oh man, is the elegant. The uniformity of the welds, and how well you were able to blend the welds, its like the metal was meant to be one piece. How'd you finish it? Also, what kind of grinding did you do there? Like, what was the highest grit of abrasive you went up to? I did some cool poo poo today. Its rained all day, which is beautiful considering my entire county is on fire (literally, wildfires everywhere, till today completely out of control.) But I still managed to do some poo poo. I worked on the "antique" plane I'm restoring. I took a wire brush in my new 400 dremel tool and smoothed all the japanning and grit on the surfaces that I'm pretty much only repainting. The others I basically sanded with the dremel and little drum sanding cylinders with the mandrel. Where need I used a light touch with the angle grinder and a backing plate w/ 80 grit abrasive. Then hand lapped the poo poo out of it, working up through the grits again with emery paper. So I think I'm actually happy with it, and ready to paint it. Went to lowe's and talked to the paint lady, who was pretty knowledgeable. Got me some rust-oleum auto primer and auto black semigloss spray paints. Do you think that a Stanley plane would be cast iron, cast steel (is there such a thing?), or drop forged steel? It definitely hard as gently caress; but doesn't throw out nearly as much sparks when grinding like high carbon steel. Then I went to the autosalvage lot and got a sing leaf (the "helper" leaf, the dude called it) off the leaf spring of an '86 ford F250. That steel is high-carbon as gently caress, some of it literally burns just from the heat of a dremel tool's cutting disk, let alone the angle grinder. So I'm hoping it'll make a nice draw-knife. Is it a standard characteristic of pretty much all high carbon steels that it has lots of pits (not necessarily from rust) and irregularities in its structure? This is a pretty unimpressive post so I'll put up some pic's once I get access to a camera.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 00:55 |
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Another benefit of TIG welding is that the welds are so small, they are quick and easy to blend out. When it comes to blending I usually take the weld down with a regular grinder disk. Once it is near flush, I will then switch to a flapper wheel (80 or 120 grit) and then blend it out flush. One thing you can do to check the depth of your grinding and avoid undercut or divots is to swap the direction of the grinder and lightly put down just enough pressure to change the direction of the grinding grain. Then switch directions again and where you see the intersection of the two grains you can see the depth of the abrasive. It is kind of hard to explain blending because it is very much something you have to do with your hands. Grinding and finishing are skills that are way underemphasized (not a word) among fabricators. It becomes critical with stainless and aluminum.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 05:07 |
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Yeah, no that makes perfect sense. I've been finding lately that the best way to get rid of scratch patterns is to sand/grind 90o to the direction of the scratches. And I make it a point to only move up to a higher grit once the only marks left on the metal are from the abrasive I'm currently using. But I think this might be where I'm going wrong - I think I might be obsessing over detail. Like especially with the high carbon steel, it has those pits I was talking about that I can never seem to completely eliminate. Plus I'm painting over it anyway. Unfortunately the highest grit abrasive pad I can find for the grinder is 80, so after that I have to switch to a flap wheel in my drill, the dremel, or emery paper and my own 2 hands.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 05:40 |
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Here's a pretty cool documentary about the 2001 Budapest, Hungary Blacksmiths Guild's gathering. It features gratuitous shots of glowing red-hot metal hammering, some amazing and awesome work, some pretty great folk music in the background, and even a hot chick blacksmithing a couple minutes in. 20 minutes. I dug it. http://vimeo.com/6144029 edit: Make sure you notice that there's a whole list of these in the side bar. This one is awesome: http://vimeo.com/6052524 The Scientist fucked around with this message at Mar 5, 2011 around 07:58 |
| # ? Mar 5, 2011 07:47 |
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Been working on a TF2 set for a while, and since I went through the trouble of making a video, I figured I'd share it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FktO...player_embedded
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 17:07 |
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Cool project for a cool client!
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 17:52 |
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Saw some videos of an interesting process on a blog I follow: Metal spinning. Manual method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP_gq1ahrmk CNC method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggqwf2hAuao Making a big part: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsCFze4zkzk It looks really simple, so it's probably complex as hell. Really cool way to shape metal, I think.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 18:44 |
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Fire Storm posted:Manual method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP_gq1ahrmk Wow. I work with sheet metal all the time, and I've always ruled out the idea of owning a lathe because I always viewed it as tool meant to cut away from large blocks of metal. I've never seen one used like this to shape sheet metal. Time to buy/make a spinning machine!
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 18:51 |
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Everyone stop right now. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMJC...feature=related
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 19:16 |
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duck hunt posted:Everyone stop right now. me... up!
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 19:59 |
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duck hunt posted:Everyone stop right now. Making gold teef is like a huge secret, cause like only a few people know how to do it. Almost nobody in the world knows how to put gold coatings on stuff...
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 20:19 |
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Just came back from the garage. I am so glad to see that you guys enjoyed that as much as I do. Did anyone catch the spinning rims on his BMW? I will be posting pics up/tutorial on making spinning rims because I like you guys so much and I want to let you in on a secret that only me and 4 other people in the world know about because we are making millions.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 20:57 |
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Fire Storm posted:Saw some videos of an interesting process on a blog I follow: Metal spinning. OK, that looks pretty cool; but was anyone else horrified by the lack of safety equipment? No glasses, touching a powered and spinning workpeice with only a gloved hand, touching AND working on the same piece simultaneously. Perhaps I am misunderstanding the forces and speeds involved- but they look like they are spinning at high speed, with more then moderate force in a device which is essentially a metal lathe. I hope none of them ever need an MRI done because there eyes must be full of metal shards.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 21:40 |
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I went for a bunch of related videos and I can now only assume that professional machinists never wear glasses and constantly tempt fate by putting their hands in/on dangerous turning machines.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 22:11 |
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Linux Assassin posted:OK, that looks pretty cool; but was anyone else horrified by the lack of safety equipment? Yes. In the first one, the dude trims the rim of the sheet metal disc blank like it was on a regular metal lathe, when in reality its not even in a chuck and the only reason its spinning at all is because of the force of the tailstock bearing down on it against the template. If it came of, it probably would fly through his chest cavity. I remember a scout master that went with us on a 12 day hike in New Mexico telling us about what he does for a living. It had something to do with giant lathe like devices that they turn either concrete or metal telephone poles on (can't remember which) - the giant ones. He described the aftermath of an instance where the pole broke free. The way he told it, it was like hearing a depiction of a hurricane in a novel or something. OK, that's not quite the same thing. But still. Here's a question: What am I trying to achieve by wet sanding in between coats of primer/spray enamel(semigloss, if that matters)?
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 23:23 |
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I think the safety lies in years of experience and hard work. And possibly massive balls.
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| # ? Mar 5, 2011 23:33 |
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| # ? Mar 6, 2011 01:07 |
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oxbrain posted:You're a man now son.
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| # ? Mar 6, 2011 01:29 |
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Random Number posted:You're a man now son. See how it broke at the keyway? That's the weak point. Not that it matters. How did you do that?
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| # ? Mar 6, 2011 02:52 |
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To think that so much good stuff comes from things turning in circular motion... Yeah I won't go near a lathe without eye protection (unless it is enclosed). When that guy is trimming the edge off of that light fixture with no glasses it made me squint...and I'm sitting behind my computer!!! Anyone else?
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| # ? Mar 6, 2011 04:44 |
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I was cutting slots in the tool holders I'm making. I've never used that kind of cutter before, and the instructor was busy so I was flying blind. I got everything correct, except I tried climb milling. That's an old mill with close to .100" of backlash, so it grabbed and pulled it into the cutter. On a new mill with very little backlash it probably would have been fine. Luckily it was at low rpm, so no shrapnel. There was an odd second or two afterward where my brain was just going, "uh, that's not supposed to happen" before I remembered to stop the machine. This is what it's supposed to look like.  Almost done, just need to widen the slots, continue them around the sides, and drill for a ton of set screws. 
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| # ? Mar 6, 2011 04:51 |
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| # ? May 18, 2013 16:48 |
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A guy pick's up a horse shoe that the blacksmith's just gotten done shaping and drops it real fast 'cause it was red hot, and the blacksmith says "what, did you burn yourself?" and the guys says "no, it just doesn't take me long to look at a horseshoe."
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| # ? Mar 6, 2011 06:50 |
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