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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:That's kind of how I was figuring it. Someone mentioned that one of the Honda cruisers has pedals in the neutral position, which is more universal and easier to learn than forward pedals? Which model was that again? Honda Shadow RS has a standard riding position: http://i.imgur.com/bKE1Y.jpg
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 19:54 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 13:56 |
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Prof_Beatnuts posted:What do you guys think of the boulevard s40? I was actually thinking of this for my first bike, but the 650cc engine blew my insurance out of the water and I went with a gs500 (487cc) instead. I think these are called Thumpers, one big cylinder, which apparently you get lots of low-end torque out of (city yes, highway not so good).
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 19:56 |
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It's a big single. Very easy riding and docile bike. I rode one for for a few months many years ago when they were called a Savage 650. Very tame, low to the ground and certainly not a monstrous powerhouse. Easy to work on too. I wouldn't totally freak out about it if a friend told me they wanted one for a first bike, assuming of course they did an MSF, had gear, etc.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 19:57 |
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epswing posted:I think these are called Thumpers, one big cylinder, which apparently you get lots of low-end torque out of (city yes, highway not so good). Nah, that's just a gearing issue. It would be fine on the highway. Generally the disadvantage of thumpers is that you get less overall horsepower for the displacement because there's so much reciprocating mass...hence why sports bikes that have to meet displacement limits don't use them. But that's not a disadvantage anywhere but the racetrack and the advantages far outweigh it anyway. (thumpers, or 360-degree twins, are the best sounding bikes in the world)
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 20:06 |
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Another good reference is this site, http://cycle-ergo.com/ , and it's goon run! It will give you a good idea of what your seating position will look like on a bunch of different bikes.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 20:12 |
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Zubumafoo posted:Another good reference is this site, http://cycle-ergo.com/ , and it's goon run! I really like cycle-ergo, but the one thing it's missing is the suspension compression. It says that I shouldn't be able to put my feet flat on the ground on my CL350, but the seat is squishy and the suspension drops an inch when I put my weight on it, so I can. So consider that if that site says a bike is too tall for you, and it's borderline, you might actually be okay.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 20:24 |
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Yea, I use it more as a reference as to lean angle and such anyway.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 20:32 |
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For all those beginners out there I will post my stereotypical rider story. Deets. I am 6 foot 6, 220 pounds, inseam 36 inches. Bought a brand new KLR 650 after taking the MSF. Hit a curb in a roundabout due to target fixation. Insurance said the bike was totaled. Also prior to this, I had to take the brand new bike in for service at like 800 miles, just as I was beginning to have fun with it. Also I dropped and cracked the plastic on it within the first week, even though it wasn't a big deal it still kind of sucked. After I healed up, my second bike was ninja 250. This thing is a piece of poo poo, and I love it. Bought a 2005 in 2010, cost me 1k, paid 500$ to get the scheduled maintenance at a local shop. If I drop it I don't give a gently caress, if I ride it for too long without doing some recommended maintenance I don't give a gently caress. I can change the oil myself. It's dirty and I look like a bear on a bike in a circus, but it goes plenty fast, and the pure joy of not having to worry about any of the extra bullshit associated with a big/new bike is so god damned nice. Clearly I'm planning on upgrading this year as evidenced by this thread, but I find myself delaying any new purchases, because quite frankly I don't really NEED a new bike as the one I have does pretty much what I want it to do. Note: The longest trip I have ever done on the bike has been 1.5 hours of straight riding, which while not too long did leave me a little sore. So if you're planning on going cross country with it and you're a size-able dude/ette, you might want something bigger.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 20:32 |
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:Thanks for the Dude, let's solve your problem. How competent of a mechanic are you? If you're a decent mechanic or at least willing to learn (which you NEED to be if you're going to ride a cycle) there isn't any reason you couldn't build your own cafe racer. Start with an older bike, it doesn't have to be a Norton, triumph or anything special. An older UJM in 250-750cc range would be a good platform to start with. Ride the bike stock for a while and start dreaming up what you want to do. Do some research online, ask questions and learn about the maintenance, handling and power characteristics of the bike. As you break things or replace them, start using the parts etc. that you want for your cafe build. You can ride it for awhile and then tear it down to build out your own custom cafe bike. This way, you know what's been done to the bike and you know it's been done right. It will fit your style accordingly since you built it for yourself, and you can show it to people and say, "I did that". Which is a reward unto itself. The neat thing about this is that if you drop or wreck the bike it just gives you an excuse to do more to it. If you start riding and fall in love with another "style" you didn't shell out big bucks for a cool cafe bike, you got a UJM that can probably be sold for what you paid for it. It's not uncommon for me to mysteriously break something on the way home and need a(n) Just my $.02
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 20:38 |
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but god drat cafe racers look so good, are they easy to learn to ride on? If I never really was going to use this thing to commute but just ride around in E. Pennsylvania for kicks would it be the kind of bike I could enjoy, or should I try to learn on a smaller cruiser or UJM?
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:As you break things or replace them, start using the parts etc. that you want for your cafe build. I believe this is absolutely the best way to build a custom bike, no question about it. It's how the original cafe racers were built, it's how the first choppers were built, it's how the little kid who loves his motorcycle builds his dream bike on the savings from his summer job. Your bike is always different and it's always YOURS, not some stamped-out "cafe" with a matte black tank and ebay seat and clubmans. Like PAMB said -- then you can fix anything that breaks, you know exactly what parts are on your bike and how they're installed, and everything that makes your bike different from stock has a particular story behind it.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 20:52 |
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Prof_Beatnuts posted:I like the way all of those look. I guess I do like cruisers. Can you adjust the handlebars easily on a bike, in terms of how far they are? I have short arms for my height and would need them a little bit closer. Lots of cruiser options. Any narrow-angle v-twin cruiser under about 1100cc is going to provide mellow enough power for just about anybody. They tend to make a lot less power per unit of displacement than a sport bike with torque focused on idle to about 4000 rpm and falling off from there, so there isn't a huge surprise powerband. As far as ideal size goes: how much weight are you comfortable muscling around, and what do you want to do with it? There are a few common displacements with size, weight, and quantity of expensive shiny bits, and payload capacity increasing along with it. Typical consideration for cruiser folks is what RPM does it run on the interstate. The lower, the more comfortable. 250cc will get you to and from the grocery store and down county back roads. Just pick it up if it goes down at a stop. Will probably pick up a couple scratches in the process. 600cc-750cc will do interstate speed comfortably without struggling, need to plan passes. Leverage technique needed to pick it up. Broken/bent pieces will probably happen when it touches pavement. 800-1100cc will crush any speed limit with ease, pass slow traffic with a quick throttle twist. Must use leverage technique method to pick it up. Will definitely break shiny expensive things in a tip over. 1200cc on up probably needs some experienced discretion.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 21:04 |
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Not taking the MSF until July, and don't know that I'd even be buying a bike this summer, but... http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/mcy/2910941656.html Could this be for real? Is buying a bike without a title such an enormous inconvenience that this price is actually short of fantastic?
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 21:23 |
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Zazamoot posted:Not taking the MSF until July, and don't know that I'd even be buying a bike this summer, but... no title = no registration or plates. The guy selling it cannot prove he's the owner without a title. It may in fact even be stolen.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 21:25 |
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Dude, let's solve your problem. How competent of a mechanic are you? This is great advice, I'm just scared because while I'm just about to earn my M.D. I've never really done anything "mechanical" at all short of changing batteries/headlights/fuses after reading the manual and just kind of winging it. That said, I think it sounds like an awesome hobby and one that I'd love to spend all kinds of time, energy and love into pursuing I just need a plan of action where I feel comfortable I'm not going to get stranded (can you tell physicians are risk averse by nature?) because I didn't realize two weeks into owning the bike I needed the chain replaced or that I'd need to strip the whole thing down.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 21:32 |
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I drove eleven hours each way, through three states and across an international border, to get my motorcycle, and I still wouldn't consider anything without a title. Basically, if your state requires a title and you don't have one, don't even consider trying to get a new title yourself. It is a GIGANTIC pain in the rear end. Hire a titling service instead. They will get a title for you, but you'll have to be okay with having the bike off the road for a few weeks to a month while the titling service does their thing, and with paying an extra $300-ish for the privilege. Furthermore, it's your responsibility to determine if the PO actually does own the bike, or if it's stolen. A number of states actually don't require a title at all for an old motorcycle (Vermont, for instance), but you still have no way of knowing if the bike is legal. I've even heard of a scam where the guy sells you the bike for cash but actually has it registered in his name with a title, then reports it stolen and gets the insurance claim, and then if you get pulled over and they run the VIN you're hosed. Don't do it. [e] wait, this is the situation? quote:The title is torn in small pieces and large portions of it are unreadable That is bizarre. I don't know what's going on but with that, and the incredibly low price, I would definitely stay away. EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:I just need a plan of action where I feel comfortable I'm not going to get stranded (can you tell physicians are risk averse by nature?) because I didn't realize two weeks into owning the bike I needed the chain replaced or that I'd need to strip the whole thing down. If you're worried about getting stranded, or using this as primary transportation, don't buy a project bike. Project bikes are toys that you are okay with repairing all week to ride on the weekend. Not all old bikes fall apart like that, of course, and some are extremely reliable once you get them dialed in...but you have to be okay with the possibility. It's good practice on any old bike you get to replace the chain as a matter of course, though. It's a wear part. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at Mar 20, 2012 around 21:45 |
| # ? Mar 20, 2012 21:39 |
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EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:This is great advice, I'm just scared because while I'm just about to earn my M.D. I've never really done anything "mechanical" at all short of changing batteries/headlights/fuses after reading the manual and just kind of winging it. That said, I think it sounds like an awesome hobby and one that I'd love to spend all kinds of time, energy and love into pursuing I just need a plan of action where I feel comfortable I'm not going to get stranded (can you tell physicians are risk averse by nature?) because I didn't realize two weeks into owning the bike I needed the chain replaced or that I'd need to strip the whole thing down. Like Sagebrush said, don't buy a ratty bike. You can find a motorcycle shop that will do an inspection for you if you find a bike you like. You're about to become an MD dude, you're going to do fine with mechanical work. Nobody dies if you forget to tighten a bolt to spec, unless it's the axle... If you're almost an MD we know you can read, study and comprehend poo poo at a fairly high level. Internal combustion engines from the 60's through the 80's are very simple. Once you understand the theory the rest is super easy. There are hundreds of websites and youtube video's devoted to everything mechanical. If you need to change your chain just google it, it's not hard. we're here and happy to answer questions, there's no such thing as a stupid question. Unless it's,"Should a Daytona be my first bike?" You will need the confidence of knowing the work was done right if you really want to ride happily. Having the thought that something bad *might* happen in the back of your mind really harshes your riding buzz. So to recap the track were on: Do some basic mechanical research and read these forums - Changing a tire, a chain, sprockets, greasing bearings and cleaning air filters. start here: http://www.dansmc.com/MC_repaircourse.htm Look for an older UJM in GOOD condition and have it inspected by a reputable shop in your area. Ask questions - Like I said man, we're here to help. If Google doesn't resolve it for you the hivemind probably can. Over all you're on the right path man, take your time and enjoy the ride.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 22:04 |
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Zazamoot posted:Not taking the MSF until July, and don't know that I'd even be buying a bike this summer, but... There is a title, it's just ripped. Tape that poo poo back together, go to the DMV with the guy and get a new one issued?
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 22:20 |
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SaNChEzZ posted:There is a title, it's just ripped. Tape that poo poo back together, go to the DMV with the guy and get a new one issued? Well, he does say "ripped into little pieces" and "parts are unreadable". It sounds like it got run over by a truck. And technically any alteration to a title that isn't supposed to be there -- even something like notarizing a title that doesn't have a specific "NOTARIZE HERE" area -- makes it invalid. Depends on how bitchy the agent you get is, but I would imagine that a taped-together shredded muddy title isn't even good enough to get a duplicate, let alone make a transfer.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 22:22 |
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Sagebrush posted:Well, he does say "ripped into little pieces" and "parts are unreadable". It sounds like it got run over by a truck. And technically any alteration to a title that isn't supposed to be there -- even something like notarizing a title that doesn't have a specific "NOTARIZE HERE" area -- makes it invalid. Depends on how bitchy the agent you get is, but I would imagine that a taped-together shredded muddy title isn't even good enough to get a duplicate, let alone make a transfer. If he's the registered owner, go with him and have him fill out a form to receive a duplicate title, then transfer it?
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 22:24 |
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That's how I would attempt it, yes, but the guy does say right in the ad "I WILL NOT GO GET A TITLE FOR THIS". So either he's a stubborn rear end or there's some bigger problem. Worth a try if the guy's nearby, though.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 22:27 |
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Sagebrush posted:That's how I would attempt it, yes, but the guy does say right in the ad "I WILL NOT GO GET A TITLE FOR THIS". So either he's a stubborn rear end or there's some bigger problem. Stolen, or a friend's/family member's bike haha.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 22:30 |
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Zazamoot posted:Not taking the MSF until July, and don't know that I'd even be buying a bike this summer, but... I don't know how it works in NY but here in WA, if the bike legitimately belongs to the seller but he doesn't have a title or the title is shredded beyond recognition, you both can go to a county DOL office or private agency. They'll verify ownership and can transfer the title on the spot. If you can do that, the seller is willing to do it with you (not sure how far that counts toward helping you title the bike), and everything checks out, it may be a pretty good buy. Those bikes aren't really anything special though, $500-1000 is "about right" territory.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 22:32 |
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What is a good price for a used DRZ 400sm? Before, I thought supermotos were silly and that I would never get one, but I had an epiphany today and now I really want one. There's only two DRZ's in the area on craigslist but they're both asking $4000+. I'm just wondering if that's high since I've only started looking today.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 23:25 |
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What led to that epiphany?
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 23:31 |
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lowcrabdiet posted:What is a good price for a used DRZ 400sm? Before, I thought supermotos were silly and that I would never get one, but I had an epiphany today and now I really want one. There's only two DRZ's in the area on craigslist but they're both asking $4000+. I'm just wondering if that's high since I've only started looking today. I just picked up a used '07 stock SM with 6k on the clock for $3800 at a dealer. There's a guy in my area (San Luis Obispo CA) selling one for $3300 it looks like, but it's a conversion from an E I think.
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| # ? Mar 20, 2012 23:34 |
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Just a couple things I would like to contribute. 1. Cruiser guy was looking for one, I'd recommend something like a Shadow 750 for your starter bike. I just looked on Craigslist and holy gently caress are bikes expensive by you. I would recommend not spending more than $2k to $2.5k on one for a few reasons. If you drop it, it gets stolen, or something like that, it's a lot easier to stomach that than a new $10k bike. If you decide to sell it after a year because you like the idea of riding motorcycles more than you actually enjoy it (crazy, I know but it happens) you don't want to be super deep into the bike. 2. If the title is questionable at all and you don't know the buyer, for goodness' sake don't buy the bike. I bought my second bike from a guy I've known for my entire life who's son is overseas and his father (the guy I bought from) was on the title as someone who could sell it but not the original owner...really drawing a blank here on the official term...anyway, it took three separate trips to the DMV to get that poo poo straightened out. Part of it was incompetence at the DMV and part was fuckery with the title. I can't imagine doing something like that if I found the bike on Craigslist. 3. The only exception I can think of to "don't buy a bike online without seeing it first" is if the dealer is selling it through eBay or something. That's how I bought my first bike and I was extremely happy with it. I didn't pay the entire payment with paypal though; I put $500 or something down as a down payment and paid the rest in cash when I picked it up. I don't think a reputable dealership would cover up problems with the bike. None of the dealerships I've dealt with have been sketchy so maybe it's just been good luck.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2012 03:28 |
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Anything to look for with an old (late 90s) Bandit? These are one of the few bikes that pop up around me for cheap and I think they'd be a poo poo-ton of fun and a good project bike. http://cnj.craigslist.org/mcy/2912910451.html 
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| # ? Mar 21, 2012 09:55 |
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Probably just steering head and wheel bearings and fork seals from wheelies.
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| # ? Mar 21, 2012 10:22 |
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If I get it maybe I should order two of those parts then. 
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| # ? Mar 21, 2012 11:28 |
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Edit: didn't reload the thread 
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| # ? Mar 22, 2012 16:47 |
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Zubumafoo posted:Another good reference is this site, http://cycle-ergo.com/ , and it's goon run! Still hasn't responded to my request to fix the picture of the SOHC CB750. The one listed is a '69-70 K0 not a 78. Yes they have slightly different riding positions. (Very slight)
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| # ? Mar 22, 2012 18:22 |
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So I sat on a 2009 Tuono Factory today at the dealership. Gotta say it looks and feels extremely nice. I wasn't having the stock seat though; it really needs something comfier. But the price after fees? 11 grand. Yeah. No thanks. There's an '08 in my neighborhood right now (non-factory) with upgraded exhaust, seat, sprockets, and heated grips with an aftermarket exhaust for only $6200 and includes a stand and cover. And for 7 grand a Street Triple R owned by a motorcycle mechanic with sliders, bar risers, and a bunch of other small but nice mods.
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| # ? Mar 22, 2012 22:20 |
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Somebody please buy these bikes and then let me ride them http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/mcy/2909384549.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/2916535459.html Im so tempted to just buy one, ride it for two months, then sell before I move in June. so pretty
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| # ? Mar 23, 2012 06:31 |
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Ok, so I sold my old 82 GS650 GL and I'm now looking for a new bike. I'd really like to get a Triumph Bonneville, but we're talking $9500 out the door new which is a little steeper than I wanted to go. The other day I drove up to a local dealer (for background on the local economic situation, I'm in the SF bay area) and took a look at their bikes. One that stood out was a 2010 Bonneville with 3000 miles and, as far as I can tell, in nearly perfect condition. It also had a luggage rack and a rather nice Corbin seat. They were asking $7000, which turns in to $8000 out the door. Attempted negotiation with them only got it dropped to $7750, which I still considered too high. My problem here is that I really don't know how well these bikes hold their value, how much different it's going to be here in California, etc. The blue book on that bike is $6400 (actually, NADA guides shows $5800), but then again that price assumes a higher mileage and no addons. The MSRP on a new Bonneville is $7700, but when you add in shipping, assembly, taxes, and fees it comes out to about $9500. Any thoughts? I feel like if I could get it for $7000 out the door I'd be doing pretty good, but I'm not sure how likely that is.
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| # ? Mar 23, 2012 15:25 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok, so I sold my old 82 GS650 GL and I'm now looking for a new bike. I'd really like to get a Triumph Bonneville, but we're talking $9500 out the door new which is a little steeper than I wanted to go. IMO that's to much for that bike. It depreciated about 30-40% the minute it rolled out of the showroom the first time. They are on crack if they expect you to pay MSRP on a 2 year old used bike. NADA and KBB is what you're going to be judged against when selling, it's what you should judge against when buying (used). Run quickly my friend.
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| # ? Mar 23, 2012 16:15 |
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Xovaan posted:So I sat on a 2009 Tuono Factory today at the dealership. Gotta say it looks and feels extremely nice. I wasn't having the stock seat though; it really needs something comfier. But the price after fees? 11 grand. Yeah. No thanks. There's an '08 in my neighborhood right now (non-factory) with upgraded exhaust, seat, sprockets, and heated grips with an aftermarket exhaust for only $6200 and includes a stand and cover. And for 7 grand a Street Triple R owned by a motorcycle mechanic with sliders, bar risers, and a bunch of other small but nice mods. 6200 sounds like a good price for that bike, assuming that its in good shape, low miles etc. I kinda have a thing for the street triple R though, especially since someone posted one in cafe racer trim with single bucket light etc. Sexy bike, I would be sorely tempted.
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| # ? Mar 23, 2012 18:25 |
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I bought a 2010 bonnie last year with miles on it, it took A LOT of work for me to talk down their "But its 250$ less than a new one" price (or whatever silliness it was). Honestly despite how much I love my bike I'm not sure it was worth all the effort hahaha. Don't even get me started on how they screwed me over a bit too. Ugh, Triumph dealers.
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| # ? Mar 23, 2012 20:13 |
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What middleweight sport-standard or sport-touring bikes have the least vibration in the seat? I've been finding my EX250's vibration to be hard on my already-bad back (one of my lumbar discs is in bad shape). I suppose I can look at gel seats, but i hesitate to start spending lots of money on the 250. I'm currently looking at SV650s and Ninja 650s, but I don't know how harsh or smooth those are. My own personal issues aside, how do these look? What are good prices to offer? 2007 Suzuki SV650S ABS - $4200 // 11,8xx miles http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/mcy/2916171616.html Perfect condition 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 650 w/ high quality gear // 9,400 miles http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/2914224474.html IMO the Ninja guy is asking way too much and is probably trying to recoup some of the maintenance cost. It seems like prices in the bay area are all way above blue book. Is KBB even useful for motorcycles?
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| # ? Mar 23, 2012 22:53 |
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That SV's 90 degree vtwin has perfect primary balance, smooth as a butter.
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| # ? Mar 23, 2012 23:06 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 13:56 |
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Hog Obituary posted:What middleweight sport-standard or sport-touring bikes have the least vibration in the seat? I've been finding my EX250's vibration to be hard on my already-bad back (one of my lumbar discs is in bad shape). I suppose I can look at gel seats, but i hesitate to start spending lots of money on the 250. I'm currently looking at SV650s and Ninja 650s, but I don't know how harsh or smooth those are. Hey Bay Area buddy, I'm wondering the same thing. I've heard there's some weirdness about bringing in bikes from out of state which may help inflate the prices. Plus everyone loves to ride in all the good weather we get!
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| # ? Mar 24, 2012 00:35 |
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