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Right foot down rider here. You freaks. Was taught this approach when doing my advanced motorcycle training here in the UK. Works for me.
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Oct 17, 2014 13:28
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rizuhbull posted:I'm likely gonna go with a ninja 250 or sv650 because they seem like the most recommended beginner bikes. I don't know what else you want me to say. As a fellow FL rider don't get the Ninja 250. There are no cool roads where you can enjoy the handling of the 250 here. It's all one long straight road, and a long straight road on a Ninja 250 is not fun in any sort of way. Get the SV650 of those two. Both feet down because my couch weighs 750 pounds.
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Oct 17, 2014 14:16
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I do both, depends on how long I'll be sitting there and how lazy I'm feeling whether I'll use both feet.
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Oct 17, 2014 14:26
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When I do have both feet down it is often just because I want to prove I can flatfoot a DRZ. Mewcenary posted:Right foot down rider here. You freaks. Was taught this approach when doing my advanced motorcycle training here in the UK. Works for me. What is the reasoning there? I keep right foot up so I am holding the rear brake to keep the bike from moving since my area isn't very flat.
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Oct 17, 2014 16:01
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BlackLaser posted:As a fellow FL rider don't get the Ninja 250. There are no cool roads where you can enjoy the handling of the 250 here. It's all one long straight road, and a long straight road on a Ninja 250 is not fun in any sort of way. Get the SV650 of those two. As another FL rider who also just bought an SV650 as their first bike, I'd agree with all of this. I'm still looking for fun roads to ride and they're few and far between here. Edit: Also, I was taught left foot down, right foot on the rear brake at my MSF class two years ago. I'll do left foot or both occasionally. rockcity fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 17:02
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I was taught to keep my right foot down and keep the left pressing down on the gear lever, to prevent it from popping out of gear when taking off, which seams dubious but whatever. I know others are taught to put the bike in neutral when stopped, I was not. Edit: also having your right foot down makes it easy to change gears, for example to shift down if you didn't completely shift down before coming to a stop, or to flick it into neutral when the wait is getting too long. High Protein fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 17:25
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Looking for a replacement bike for my stolen DR650. How does this look? http://nashville.craigslist.org/mcy/4713380206.html
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Oct 17, 2014 17:58
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BlackLaser posted:As a fellow FL rider don't get the Ninja 250. There are no cool roads where you can enjoy the handling of the 250 here. It's all one long straight road, and a long straight road on a Ninja 250 is not fun in any sort of way. Get the SV650 of those two. Oh man I completely looked over the fact that he lives in Florida, I would have catered my advice more towards that and ignored the 250s altogether. I'd get a Hayabusa in that case.
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Oct 17, 2014 18:11
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nsaP posted:Oh man I completely looked over the fact that he lives in Florida, I would have catered my advice more towards that and ignored the 250s altogether. Stretch Hayabusa right?
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Oct 17, 2014 18:12
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High Protein posted:I know others are taught to put the bike in neutral when stopped, I was not. nsaP posted:I'd get a Hayabusa in that case.
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Oct 17, 2014 18:29
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Yuuuup.
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Oct 17, 2014 18:31
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rizuhbull posted:Can't you simply pull the clutch or no? Don't know how shifting works, at least not anything past the very basics. Yeah you can just keep the clutch pulled (though it gets old after a couple of minutes), however here I've read that some people are taught to shift into neutral, I think the reason I saw was in case the clutch cable breaks; although a bike will just stall, not careen off into traffic when that happens.
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Oct 17, 2014 18:34
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High Protein posted:I was taught to keep my right foot down and keep the left pressing down on the gear lever, to prevent it from popping out of gear when taking off, which seams dubious but whatever. MSF teaches right foot on the brake lever because it's the most obvious safe thing to do. You're using that lever as you come to a stop.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:26
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rizuhbull posted:Can't you simply pull the clutch or no? Don't know how shifting works, at least not anything past the very basics. Typically you only shift into neutral if A) You're aware of the timing of the lights and B) You feel safe from the rear with 2 more or more cars stopped behind you. It's best to stay in first and keep the clutch pulled in if you're not sure about the timing of the lights or if there's no one behind you and traffic could potentially plow into you. Also, don't put your right foot down unless you're putting both down (which is meh too)-- that's a dumb habit to learn. Keeping your right foot on the brake lever while stopped is a useful habit for a multitude of reasons the foremost of which in my experience has been that it makes launches on upward inclines much easier with minimal rolling backwards and/or embarrassing stalls.
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Oct 17, 2014 19:41
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Razzled posted:Typically you only shift into neutral if A) You're aware of the timing of the lights and B) You feel safe from the rear with 2 more or more cars stopped behind you. It's best to stay in first and keep the clutch pulled in if you're not sure about the timing of the lights or if there's no one behind you and traffic could potentially plow into you. BlackLaser posted:As a fellow FL rider don't get the Ninja 250. There are no cool roads where you can enjoy the handling of the 250 here. It's all one long straight road, and a long straight road on a Ninja 250 is not fun in any sort of way. Get the SV650 of those two. rizuhbull fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 21:19
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Totally dubious. Who taught you this? I noticed other people saying they were taught right foot down too, why? Left foot on the pegs because if ~something happens~ you can throttle out and shift to second faster. Also, never sit in traffic in neutral for the same reason. The neutral I totally understand, the foot placement not so much. Besides, when you're on an incline I was taught to keep the rearbreak on so what's the added safety anyway? 
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Oct 17, 2014 21:28
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Chichevache posted:What is the reasoning there? I keep right foot up so I am holding the rear brake to keep the bike from moving since my area isn't very flat. Its the UK. They do every thing on the wrong side.
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Oct 17, 2014 21:33
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I keep both feet on the pegs and just perfectly balance the bike at a standstill. I don't understand why more people don't do this 
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Oct 17, 2014 21:50
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Coredump posted:Its the UK. They do every thing on the wrong side. That's certainly how they do their wars. 
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Oct 17, 2014 22:01
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Totally dubious. Who taught you this? I noticed other people saying they were taught right foot down too, why? I put my right foot down cause the left one works the shift lever. But I'm also a CA heretic and I leave my bike neutral at lights all the time if I know it's going to be a bit. Rear brake helps a bit on a steep hill but otherwise, meh. Also with a bit of practice you can use the front in the exact same way. Really I don't have a hard and fast rule either way, sometimes left, sometimes right, sometimes both if I need to stand and stretch.
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Oct 17, 2014 22:10
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I find I tend to put my right foot down at stops when I'm not thinking about it, but I'm trying to train myself to do left foot down because where I live is super hilly and it's hard for me to ease on the throttle while releasing the front brake at the same time.
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Oct 17, 2014 23:20
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Put down the foot on whichever side the road camber is lower - this seems pretty simple and obvious advice. (I have to giggle at the people who say they stay in gear so they can ride away if someone doesn't stop in time, because in my mind they're in a racing crouch at every light staring intently in their mirrors - how loving often do you get rear-ended and just how good do you think your reflexes and threat perception are for this to be worth loving up your clutch and/or turning your hand into a wanking claw?)
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Oct 17, 2014 23:28
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It's even simpler to always put the left foot down and keep the right on the brake without variation, as they taught in the MSF course. I, too, giggle at the guys who think they're Jedi enough to avoid being rear-ended - especially since if you're at a stop it means you'd probably just burst right into crossing traffic and be killed anyway - but I like to leave the bike in gear so I can lift my one foot and immediately begin moving without any loving around getting into the gear I should already have been in. And unless your clutch is many times heavier to pull than normal, or you're sitting at stoplights that stay red for hours at a time, I seriously doubt staying in gear poses much threat to to the condition of either your hand or your clutch. (I do put my car in neutral when I'm stopped, though, because the shifter falls readily to hand, and its manipulation compromises neither my ability to manipulate the brake, nor my car's tendency to stay upright. In either case, everyone else is slower than me when it comes to leaving the stop, so I feel pretty smug about it.) Frosty- fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Oct 17, 2014 |
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Oct 17, 2014 23:39
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I've never had a clutch mess up on me because I stay in gear at red lights. /shrug
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Oct 17, 2014 23:41
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My bike actually gets whacky if I shift into neutral at lights. GS500s often have to have the clutch popped in and out to shift back into first after sitting for a second. That is why most of us just clutch in at the light. Its a wet clutch, not much is going to happen to it if you hold it in.
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Oct 18, 2014 00:21
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goddamnedtwisto posted:You mean you don't have a knob big enough to cope with taming such a savage beast H2R is calling your name.
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Oct 18, 2014 00:32
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headlights but that little roundel on the side just destroys any amount of mad, bad and dangerous to know cred that having aquaman gills on the tail might have given it.
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Frosty- posted:And unless your clutch is many times heavier to pull than normal, or you're sitting at stoplights that stay red for hours at a time, I seriously doubt staying in gear poses much threat to to the condition of either your hand or your clutch. Stock setting for an HD clutch lever: 
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Oct 18, 2014 01:19
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If it feels like that it needs a new cable.
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Oct 18, 2014 02:26
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Yeah but it would ruin his left arm work out routine.
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Oct 18, 2014 02:37
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clutchpuck posted:If it feels like that it needs a new cable. I guess that's entirely possible, but I remember this being the case right out of the showroom. Not a complaint really; the Japanese bikes I rode prior to it had hair triggers in comparison. I'll have to check this out on a similar bike.
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Oct 18, 2014 05:50
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I've just gotten my motorcycle endorsement and want to buy a bike in the near future, I'm thinking a Ninja 250 given all the recommendations online and its performance/features compared to the other commonly recommended starter bikes. I'm fairly confident that I want to buy a used bike, but not super confident about buying from a private seller vs. a dealer. I have one friend who is quite an enthusiastic rider and offered to help me out with inspecting and test riding a used bike from a private seller, but I worry that he hasn't been riding for very long. Am I likely to get myself into trouble buying from a private seller, would they be unlikely to let a totally new rider test ride their bike (honestly I think if the situation were reversed I probably wouldn't let them), and is it normal to take a used bike to a mechanic before you buy it (I definitely do this for used cars)? One other thing is that I feel like I should try out how different starter bikes feel for my height/build and just how I like to sit. I'm not sure what the best way to that is, just go to dealers and sit on the bikes? Also I live in Seattle if that helps answering.
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Oct 20, 2014 22:22
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Seashell Salesman posted:I've just gotten my motorcycle endorsement and want to buy a bike in the near future, I'm thinking a Ninja 250 given all the recommendations online and its performance/features compared to the other commonly recommended starter bikes. I'm fairly confident that I want to buy a used bike, but not super confident about buying from a private seller vs. a dealer. Yup. Go do exactly that, but you'll end up buying a
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Oct 20, 2014 22:38
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Seashell Salesman posted:I've just gotten my motorcycle endorsement and want to buy a bike in the near future, I'm thinking a Ninja 250 given all the recommendations online and its performance/features compared to the other commonly recommended starter bikes. I'm fairly confident that I want to buy a used bike, but not super confident about buying from a private seller vs. a dealer. Look through this: http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html It's a pretty thorough guide to what to look for with a used bike and almost all of it doesn't require you to ride the bike. When I bought my first bike I was super unsure of my own ability to spot problems. I talked to the seller and made the sale contingent on having a mechanic look at it and clear it of any major problems (I said I would pay for the mechanic evaluation either way). It might be a little tougher to get a great deal doing that, but I felt it was worth it for my own peace of mind.
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Oct 20, 2014 22:45
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Seashell Salesman posted:I've just gotten my motorcycle endorsement and want to buy a bike in the near future, I'm thinking a Ninja 250 given all the recommendations online and its performance/features compared to the other commonly recommended starter bikes. I'm fairly confident that I want to buy a used bike, but not super confident about buying from a private seller vs. a dealer. Honestly the idea the dealers are more reliable than private sellers is a myth. Personal experience: retailer told me a clutch noise on warm-up was just the clutch braking in. Turns out the whole clutch was fried and they refused to pay for the fix.
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Oct 20, 2014 23:13
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Barnsy posted:Honestly the idea the dealers are more reliable than private sellers is a myth. Personal experience: retailer told me a clutch noise on warm-up was just the clutch braking in. Turns out the whole clutch was fried and they refused to pay for the fix. I think it can be reasonable with cars, as there's generally a warranty and the whole thing is a lot more established. With motorcycles you get no warranty and you're just paying more by dealing with someone who sells motorcycles for a profit as their job instead of a guy who finally realized he isn't going to ride this thing after it's sat in his garage for 2 years and it should probably be gone by now. That said I bought my most recent motorcycle at a dealer because they were selling a bike I wanted, it's worked out OK so far. You're going to end up doing all the same basic maintenance items to make sure they've been done correctly, so just look for the bike/deal you want. For a starter bike that's almost definitely going to be a private seller.
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Oct 20, 2014 23:19
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Barnsy posted:Honestly the idea the dealers are more reliable than private sellers is a myth. Personal experience: retailer told me a clutch noise on warm-up was just the clutch braking in. Turns out the whole clutch was fried and they refused to pay for the fix.
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Oct 21, 2014 01:14
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rizuhbull posted:It's not that dealers are more reliable. It's that you have somewhere to go back to and raise hell if something happens to your vehicle. You can't really do that with a private seller. True but generally dealer bikes cost way more than non-dealer bikes, and your saved money could go towards any issues it might end up having. Especially since bikes are way easier to work on than cars. E: Buying my FZ6, and then a new battery, fork seals, plugs, set of pilot road 4s, injector cleaner, brake pads, etc was still cheaper than what a dealer would have charged. If you're comfortable doing your own work, private sale is the way to go. Marxalot fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Oct 21, 2014 |
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Oct 21, 2014 02:06
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Do y'all think a 2005 Suzuki V-Strom 650 with just under 70k miles is worth 4k? Looks in great shape but I don't know poo poo about bikes other than the tires are new looking.
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Oct 21, 2014 03:48
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rizuhbull posted:Do y'all think a 2005 Suzuki V-Strom 650 with just under 70k miles is worth 4k? Looks in great shape but I don't know poo poo about bikes other than the tires are new looking. No. That's way too much for 70k miles.
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Oct 21, 2014 04:06
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rizuhbull posted:Do y'all think a 2005 Suzuki V-Strom 650 with just under 70k miles is worth 4k? Looks in great shape but I don't know poo poo about bikes other than the tires are new looking. Unless there's a ton of well-done and valuable aftermarket stuff on it, that's like $1000 too high. While the Stroms handle high mileage pretty well compared to a lot of other bikes, 70k is still getting up there.
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Oct 21, 2014 04:07
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