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Twenty-Seven posted:Oh good, I need people to tell me what bike to buy. I'm looking for a big sporty twin. Gonna be used a lot for commuting, so some comfort is nice, but I'm willing to trade off some of that for performance on the weekends. Make the tuono work. That rotax engine, IMO, is one of the best twins ever made. Plus the suspension will be the best out of the box, so no work should need to be done there. Do it. Besides that though, you pretty much have a handle on it. The tl will need shock work done to replace that rotary rear shock, if it hasn't been done, and is more of a sportbike. Sv1k is a little more capable than you give it credit for, especially with some minor suspension work. I'd go for the tuono first followed by the Sv/superhawk, then the sporty stuff. Z3n fucked around with this message at 08:05 on Oct 5, 2008 |
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Oct 5, 2008 08:03
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Terminus Est posted:Speaking of murderous 2 strokes, is a Honda cr500 with a new motor worth a grand? The paper didn't list which year, but I doubt it matters at a thousand bucks. If you like death, absolutely. There's a good condition running one for sale in SB for 800, and I'd buy it if I didn't feel like living out the rest of my life.
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Oct 5, 2008 18:19
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Captain Apollo posted:Well I'm financially ready to buy a motorcycle. If you have some self control, yes. If you don't...I'd stay away. It's over the top of the HP range by a bit, but you can keep it in the lower RPMs and it won't bite...depends more on you than the bike. Bike looks ok...check the usuals, chain, sprocket, blah blah blah.
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Oct 9, 2008 06:58
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Trintintin posted:Ironically I'm looking at the below r6 right now to fixup and upgrade too from my ex500. I've noticed the 500 is really middle ground where guys on hogs will still give me the motorcycle wave, and guys on sport bikes still ask if I can wheelie it and how fast it goes. Buy it, if can find an engine (cheap), and replace the engine. However, it's not worth it if it'll be over 800$. Count on it to stack up like this: 800$ for an engine. 200$ in assorted fluids, gaskets, replacing odds and ends. Does it need tires? poo poo, another 300$. Chain/sprocket? 150$. Tax, title? 200$. Oh, he neglected the registration while it was sitting? Another 200$. All of the sudden, you have a 2500$ motorcycle, that you've just dumped countless hours into, and if you had spent a few hundred more initially, you could have had a really nice, clean one that you don't have to dick around with to get running. I only go for stuff like that if the plastics are in immaculate condition, and I know that I can profit off of the parts that I know will be saleable. If you buy a crashed bike with a busted engine, replace the engine and discover that something is wrong with it, you're left with a poo poo bike that you just dropped a bunch of money on. If you buy a bike that's in great shape but the engine is toast, at least you can sell the plastics for 800-1500$, and recoup your costs like that. My 250 is a good example of that: I knew that buying it for 200$ I could turn a profit no matter what, and I did. If he had been asking 400$? No way. NVaderJ posted:http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcy/871384949.html If it doesn't run. Otherwise, buy it. Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Oct 10, 2008 |
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Oct 10, 2008 23:45
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Trintintin posted:I got some more details, 12000 miles and a salvage title, so I'm going to pass on it. I might take the chance if I wasn't a poor college student but he won't budge from the $1200 and I don't see it being worth anymore than a grand. With that many things replaced it was thrashed on. Thanks for the help though. That is a very good decision. NVaderJ, Bike looks good. Replacement tanks may be hard to come by, especially in good, stock condition, but just buy it and ride it. gently caress cosmetics 
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Oct 11, 2008 01:30
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NVaderJ posted:Yeah, I'm basically of the same opinion, although he will throw in a tank from a V45 that almost fits. Whatever that means. Probably, when it's all said and done, around 300$ or so, give or take 50$, depending on your dealership. It looks like you plan on replacing both, which is what you need to do. Do not ride it, if at all possible, until you get new tires on it. I'd run pirelli sport demons, personally.
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Oct 11, 2008 02:40
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Entreri posted:What's a good price for a used 07 Ninja 250r? I've seen them for $2000-ish in my area, but I'm looking at a used one on craigslist with 17k miles for $1750. Looks really clean and the guy says it's had new tires and oil recently. It's potentially going to be my first bike. Should I jump on this deal? It's been down, probably hard. Just keep that in mind when you go to look at it. You can tell from the spray job on the tank and the dents, the hosed up clutch cable. I'd consider it, but you need to have an experienced rider for a test ride, go over everything, and ask about accident damage. If he denys it was ever down, run. Check EVERYTHING with a fine tooth comb. If it's all good, talk him down to 1500$ and go for it. If he goes much below 1500$, that'd be suspicious. Z3n fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Oct 19, 2008 |
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Oct 19, 2008 06:24
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Entreri posted:Is there anything besides what's in the http://www.biekwiki.com/index.php/Buyers_guide list that I should look for? http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html There's the really, really complete list. I'd highly recommend that if you bring a friend to look over it with you, ideally someone with a fair bit of experience buying and selling bikes. Something like that 250 could be a great deal or it could be a timebomb waiting to happen.
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Oct 19, 2008 16:13
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NVaderJ posted:This looks to be a good deal... That's really on the high side, especially for a bike that's been down and is almost 20 years old. 1300$ would be what I would pay.
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Oct 23, 2008 22:18
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What is the registration like on it? Depending on your state, if it was put away 5-6 years ago, you could owe as much as 600$ in back fees the second that you try and register it. Look, let me break the costs down, as someone who has done this before: 500$ for the bike. 300$ for new tires 150$ for new chain and sprocket 150$ in oil, bearings, filters, brake fluid, caliper/MC rebuild kits 100$ in replacement for broken parts. (say, someone bashed a rotor) 100$ in carb kits to replace broken/destroyed orings, floats, and needles 50$ in stuff to reline the tank, or purchase a new lovely one if it's rusted. 20$ in fuel lines to replace the stuff that's rotted away 20$ in lights 100-600$ in registration, tax, license fees. So, you've spent 1400$ on a 1000$ bike. That's if EVERYTHING works, first time through, there's no back registration, and you don't have any electrical gremlins, if mice haven't decided to make nests out of the wiring harness, and the bike is essentially perfect besides that. Now, let's say that because he didn't store it correctly, it's burning oil and the rings are hosed. You're 1400$ into a 500$ bike, with a busted engine.  I mean, best case scenerio, yeah, you have a running bike that goes for an indeterminate amount of time. But I wouldn't touch that bike with a 10 foot pole unless it was free. Plastics on an old bike that have a lovely paintjob will sell for a minimal amount of money, so don't count on that as a significant way of making money back on the bike. Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:11 on Oct 24, 2008 |
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Oct 24, 2008 23:08
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Bugdrvr posted:I'm kinda curious about that as well. 7 years. If a bike isn't registered for 7 years, it drops from the system, and then it's registered with no back fees as if it was new. You provide proof of ownership, via a title, bill of sale, whatever, and register for the normal fees. If you get something that has been registered within the last 7 years, you pay registration for each year that was unpaid plus a penalty, which is a % of the overall fee. I'm pretty sure that at the top end, you're looking at around 200% of the initial cost, so your 50$ registration is now a 100$ registration. But, IIRC, that only applies to the first year, so you're looking at 100$ for the first year and then 50$ for each year after that. Also, you pay a use tax based off of the purchase price of the vehicle, and if it's an out of state (ie, no california emissions) bike with under 7500 miles on it, regardless of age, you cannot register it at all! I bet you're glad you asked now!  My friend re-registered a 1975 CB200 that he got out of a dumpster: 400$. loving cali RAPES you on anything that wasn't properly registered.
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Oct 25, 2008 04:24
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Lawn posted:http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/mcy/886091261.html The clutch engagement point can be adjusted. I'd be wary, on a bike that old, of seals being rotted out and parts needing replacement due to age. Hopefully, if it was just serviced, everything should be good, but you don't know what that service entailed. Also check the date codes on the tires to make sure that you won't instantly be replacing them. The premium for offroad bikes with a plate in cali is insane 
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Oct 25, 2008 18:26
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100 Years in Iraq posted:I'm ever so glad my state (UT) doesn't do this either. When I registered my bike I think it cost me all of about $45, including taxes. Plus we don't have to smog motorcycles. I think you can also retitle with just a bill of sale. I want a streeted dual sport with 17s that's relatively cheap so bad, but it will NEVER happen in cali because of the absolute rape status of the loving DMV. And they won't give me a race transportation permit for my trackbike, despite me printing out the relevant CA transportation codes. 
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Oct 27, 2008 02:44
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Simkin posted:You need permission to transport your race bike, or do you actually plan to ride it to the track? Technically, you need a permit to transport any motorcycle that you own on public highways, regardless of what the use is. So when I toss my trackbike in the back of the truck, I'm supposed to have the appropriate documentation for it. A PNO (Planned Non-Operation) is what most people do, and that's not the correct form, because PNO bikes aren't supposed to be transported off of the place that they are stored. Also, PNOs or keeping the registration current requires a yearly fee, which is...well, bullshit. A race transportation permit allows you to transport racebikes to and from the track for a one time fee of 15$, for as long as you own the bike. So it's cheaper, I don't have to renew it every year, and it's the legal solution to my problem. The problem is: The loving DMV doesn't know what it is. They're used so rarely (everyone else just non-ops and eats the fees and breaks the law, because the CHP/Local Police don't know the laws either). I could keep the registration current, but in order to keep it legit, I need to have insurance or they suspend the registration, making it pointless again. I found the form online, though, so I'm just going to bring it in, completed, and watch their heads explode as they try to find the sticker that I need. 100 Years in Iraq posted:I'm beginning to think I should offer goons a registry service, getting them a title and whatnot here so they can ride hott bieks wherever they may be without dealing with all their local bullshit. poo poo, I live 1.5 blocks from the DMV, I could walk down there. I wish. I want a real SM bike so bad. Questionably street legal, 250 pounds, 40hp of 2 or 4 stroke street death. I also hate the brain dead morons at the local DMV. Orange Someone posted:Not entirely sure what registration is in the States, but I laugh at car owners over here, 15 pounds a year for road tax is one of the largest selling points of a motorbike. Even with the increased cost of insurance (drat you insurance company, drat you for not caring if I worked hard to get my full license), with road tax for most cars being in the 200 pound region, it's really brilliant to watch their faces when I burst their little bubbles. Registration is cheaper on bikes here. Not that much cheaper, but a little cheaper. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Oct 27, 2008 |
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Oct 27, 2008 18:10
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Ninja 250 or a small, good condition scoot. You won't want anything bigger because it's just going to be a handful in traffic. The ninja 250 is at it's prime in street level commuting. You should be able to find a cheap one, and your budget will cover safety courses, full gear, and insurance. I started with almost exactly the same budget, bought my 250 for 1800$, my gear for 1200$, and 300$ for the safety course/insurance.
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Oct 27, 2008 18:47
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Captain Apollo posted:Thoughts for a first time buyer? Check the buyers guide: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html That'll cover everything. Count on some work to get it back up to running well. Good if you're mechanically inclined. Reagan Youth posted:could i take this on the highway for day-trips (e.g. Boston, Philly, DC) Yup. If in good condition, it should have plenty of go for the highways. It tops out at a little over 100mph. The downside is that it'll be vibey and you'll have to adjust to an engine running 8k for hours at a time. But they will do just fine. I did san diego to San Francisco on mine.
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Oct 27, 2008 22:14
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ail posted:Haha, what is this? [citation needed]. I can totally see it being real, cuz its Cali, but what? quote:That's... really loving wierd. How does one go about transporting a bike they just purchased, then? Up here, as long as the bike isn't actually driving on the road, the cops just consider it part of a vehicle's cargo, and there's certainly no requirement to register it. That's loving retarded. quote:38088. (a) Upon payment of the fee specified in Section 38232, the department shall issue to the owner of a motorcycle, which the owner has certified as being used exclusively in racing events on a closed course, a special transportation identification device for the purpose of identifying the motorcycle while it is being transported upon a highway to and from racing events on a closed course. Such device may be either a plate or a sticker, whichever is determined by the department to be the most appropriate. (b) Such device is nonrenewable, nontransferrable, and becomes invalid when the vehicle for which it was issued is sold or dismantled. Ok, there's the bit on the race permit. This section covers what can and cannot be registered: quote:4000. (1) No person shall drive, move, or leave standing upon a highway, or in an offstreet public parking facility, any motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer, pole or pipe dolly, or logging dolly, unless it is registered and the appropriate fees have been paid under this code or registered under the permanent trailer identification program, except that an off-highway motor vehicle which displays an identification plate or device issued by the department pursuant to Section 38010 may be driven, moved, or left standing in an offstreet public parking facility without being registered or paying registration fees. And here's the list of exceptions: quote:38010. (a) Except as otherwise provided in subdivision (b), every motor vehicle specified in Section 38012 that is not registered under this code because it is to be operated or used exclusively off the highways, except as provided in this division, shall be issued and display an identification plate or device issued by the department. Welcome to the hell that is california CVC. As far as I can see it, as long as you're racing a car, you're clear...but I don't think that most trackdays would fall under "organized racing or competitive events upon a closed course when those events are conducted under the auspices of a recognized sanctioning body or by permit issued by the local governmental authority having jurisdiction". So if the cop actually knew the CVC, you'd be hosed. Unless you got a special transportation permit for it under some other part of the code. Cops treat it basically exactly how you describe it, Simkin. But the law says I must either keep it registered, or have a race transportation permit. I've come to realize, in the course of researching this stuff over the last year or 2, I probably know the CVCs better than most cops, as they relate to this kind of thing. I've never been pulled with a trackbike in the back, but I like to have my poo poo all legal and legit, and so I get to jump through hoops. Thanks, DMV, for punishing me for being aware of the system and trying to get the right permit for my motorcycle.  Maybe I can just get my motorcycle listed as a "Implement of Husbandry". Yes, I till them fields with this racebike! Z3n fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Oct 28, 2008 |
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Oct 28, 2008 16:39
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Stoic Commie posted:So is that gs500e that had been rebuilt a good buy? He said he has no title, but a bill of sale and he would go to the secretary of state with me to make sure it checked out, but I'm not even sure how title transfers and bills of sale work. It doesn't seem too bad. I'd call your local DMV/what have you and see what they say about it. Make sure that the vin of the frame isn't stolen or anything like that.
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Oct 30, 2008 18:42
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ClockworkZero posted:"I'm hoping this bike will get me laid" I don't even want to imagine the results of saying that to one of the hambeasts at the DMV. 
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Nov 3, 2008 17:55
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elsanto posted:http://lansing.craigslist.org/mcy/902603589.html If it's been fixed up by a shop, chances are you can trust it. Private party can be a little more hit or miss. They're going to have a list of damage, repairs, etc. I'd buy it.
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Nov 6, 2008 21:13
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relaxzguy posted:http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/mcy/907111986.html Seems about right. I wouldn't pass on it for a grand though. Heated grips are nice.
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Nov 6, 2008 23:49
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Jesus, that is a loving deal. But yeah, not a great beginner bike.
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Nov 7, 2008 20:13
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MrKatharsis posted:Yeah but it's a Yamaha so it's got like 8 ft-lbs of torque. As long as he keeps it below 9000 rpms, it'll be the functional equivalent of a parallel-twin standard. Yeah, but apparently the pull of the engine above 9k is enough to remove limbs.
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Nov 7, 2008 20:22
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Stoic Commie posted:http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcy/911419528.html Pass...I know it sucks, but wait for the right bike to come up. It will come. Keep looking, keep posting.
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Nov 9, 2008 09:36
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:No reply yet, and I just passed MSF today, getting license in next day or two. Nope. Look over it before you buy it for stuff that you'll immediately have to dump into it, moneywise, like chain, sprockets, and tires, if needed, use that to talk him down more. Change the oil on principal when you get it, and ride it. 
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Nov 10, 2008 04:33
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First gen, hands down. The age, not such a big deal, the multiple owners, salvage title, "custom" exhaust...bigger deal. The 2nd gens aren't significantly better, anyways.
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Nov 22, 2008 07:54
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Lawn posted:How reliable are high mileage sport bikes? I've seen a bunch of post 2000 bikes with 30k or so miles and was wondering how reliable modern bikes with that many miles are. I know a lot of it would just depend on who took care of it, but I figure if it made it to 30k miles it was at least owned by someone who did more than burnouts and wheelies. Specifically, would the 600cc race bikes with ~30k miles still be good if the price is low enough? It absolutely depends on the bike, the engine, and most importantly: The owner. I blew 2 engines on my ZX-6E. One was due to a questionable repair by the PO to the top oil rails, and one was due to running it with a blown hose due to a bent front coolant rail (only leaked under pressure, temp gauge never went past halfway). The questionable repair made it 40k, the coolant-less engine made it 10k. I've owned a couple of bikes over 30k, one of which was my SV, which had 135k on it, 2 seasons of racing, and fragged the tranny at 140k. The other was my 929 which was bought with 34k and ridden to 50k, and sold because I didn't need a bike like that and I could break even on it. I know beyond a shadow of a doubt that I could have put 100k+ on that bike without it breaking a sweat. So, to answer your question: It depends. If the bike is immaculate (my 929 was picture perfect, showroom condition after 34k miles), then yes, I'd buy it in a heartbeat. If it's hosed up and looks like it's lived a hard life, I'd run. If it's some kid with no maintenence records, I'd run. If the guy is a responsible owner who knows the idiocicracies of the bike and model year, I'd buy it. There are certain bikes and engines that are known for going the distance. The Honda 929, 954, VFRs, SV650s, F4/F4i, FZ1, and the Bandit 1200 all spring to mind. I've seen evidence of most bikes being capable theoretically of well over 100k with proper care, everything from Ducati 2 valvers to race reps. The problem is: You can't exactly figure that out if the work was done unless you have paperwork or the owner is a trustworthy guy...can be hit or miss. But most of the time you can tell within seconds of looking at a bike if it was well taken care of or not. Ratty plastics, lovely fixes, chain hasn't been cleaned or lubed in months, brake fluid is black, it looks like it got tossed around a bunch. Stuff like that. If the bike has 30k on it, and you ask when the valves were done and the guy says "those don't need to be done" probably best to run...but I did run into a guy who had a FZ1 with 62k on it where the valves had never been done and the bike still ran fine.  I have more faith in high mileage literbikes not being abused, because honestly it's hard to abuse the bikes without getting yourself killed. Plus they don't get reved as hard around town. And...if you care for a SS bike properly, it could see the redline every time you ride it and still make it 40-50k+. One of the guys who taught me how to ride has a ZX-6E that gets the absolute poo poo kicked out of it every weekend, and he will still get 40-50k out of a properly built engine. This is a bike that gets real abuse, extended bouts of high RPM use and consistant full throttle. I've seen track and street SVs with 50k without the slightest issue. Well, that's quite enough words. Z3n fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Dec 4, 2008 |
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Dec 4, 2008 07:52
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Transalps are a very rare sight in the US, period. I've only seen a handful over the years, in person or for sale. Hughmoris, that seems like a reasonable deal on that bike.
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Dec 5, 2008 18:00
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Watommi posted:How is this for a starter bike? I take the riding portion of the MSF this weekend and will be looking for a bike as soon as possible. Tomorrow will be the first time I've ever been on a motorcycle. Nice example but about 1000$ too expensive. I'm betting that this one is a "wife wants me to put it up for sale so by god it's going up for sale!".
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Dec 6, 2008 01:01
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Watommi posted:What about this? I have no tools or know-how to repair bikes, but I figure there's no time like now to learn. I can probably swing a battery pretty easy, but how hard are carbs to work on? Is this doable for a complete non-mechanic, or should I look for something that would require less work? If you can get it to start and run, it's probably alright. If it's a non-runner and it "just needs a battery" and it doesn't start with a jump because the "carbs are out of sync" he's full of poo poo and you should run. Carbs aren't particularly difficult to work on, but would require time and patience.
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Dec 6, 2008 02:30
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Bugdrvr posted:Most of the time when you have a beat second gear it means the bike has spent a decent amount of time getting the poo poo beat out of it. Most of the stuntaaaz end up getting back cut gears because of this. On the flip side, those engines are absolutely absurdly beefy, they're what the Bandit 12 is based off of. Suzuki Air/Oil cooled 1100. You can bore them, beat the poo poo out of then, do whatever the christ you want to them and they'll come back for more. But the transmission is toast, so gently caress it unless you can get it for really cheap.
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Dec 8, 2008 23:26
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Christoff posted:http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/940680845.html Little on the high side pricewise for a bike like that. Doesn't look like it's in great shape, even from the picture. I'd pass and wait for something that takes modern rubber at around the same price. I'd buy this, actually: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/961499300.html Not perfect shape, but a good, decent entry level bike, nice 600cc engine, with a little suspension work (springs) it'll hang with the big boys with a decent rider on it. Plus comfortable enough to tour on all day. Was made for quite awhile, so you won't have any problems finding parts. I rode Kawasaki's equivalent of that for almost 50k miles. It was a fantastic bike, an excellent all arounder. Or are you looking for something for twisty blasts only?
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Dec 19, 2008 07:20
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Christoff posted:This would be just for local town cruising. There's also the salvage title option. If that's in good shape, I'd be all over it.
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Dec 19, 2008 07:52
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Datsun Honeybee posted:I actually found a great deal I am jumping on tomorrow morning. Sounds a little on the high side. Maybe offer around 1500$? If it's in good shape though 1800$ would be on the high side. Christoff, I'd see if he'd take 1k for it. That'd be a great deal, 1200$ would be reasonable for both you and him. As long as there's no huge problems with it. Maintenence records are a plus, and if it's clean and in good shape besides some cosmetics, I'd still pay 1400$ for it. But because he says he's negotiable, work that poo poo down. Things that would cause me to not pay 1400$ for it would be title issues or obvious negligence.
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Dec 20, 2008 21:50
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Christoff posted:I need to stop looking at bikes The EX500 is a better choice than either of those. The 600RX is an interesting piece of history but quote:Starts/runs well, some chatter coming from the top end. That almost always means knock of some sort. That katana is big, heavy, underpowered...the EX500 would be a much better choice.
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Dec 21, 2008 01:35
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Datsun Honeybee posted:I just got back from checking out the CB750. Man, those things are huge! I'd never seen one in person before. Seems like it'll make a nice 2nd bike though. Cool! Post pics when you get it in the bike pics thread. Very clean and well-kept is exactly what you want when you buy a bike. That first impression you get about the bike and the owner usually says it all. I'll pass if the bike isn't clean unless I'm getting an absolutely killer deal on it, like..replace all the mechanicals and still come out ahead killer deal.
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Dec 21, 2008 05:05
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Christoff posted:http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/mcy/957815556.html Seems about equal, but use this one as a bargining chip against the other one...if the other one hasn't had certain maintenence items on it, use "Well, there's another one that I'm looking at that's really clean, so unless you can cut me a deal...". I've used that to good success before.
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Dec 21, 2008 20:40
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That is a fantastic deal. I love those bikes, I rode a 93 in the less gay color scheme (Black and green) for 50k miles. They're fantastic bikes. They're big bikes, but a good rider on one can make it dance. I've done just about every bit of work you could do to one of those, so I'm pretty familier with the ins and outs of the bikes. Congrats on the bike, take good care of it and the engines will go 100k+. Feel free to PM, e-mail, or hit me up on zx6e.net with any questions. Z3n fucked around with this message at 10:47 on Dec 25, 2008 |
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Dec 25, 2008 10:30
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Christoff posted:Yeah, it was a lot bigger than I thought it'd be. I don't have any specific questions now but I'm thinking of doing most all my own work. Everyone seems to be stressing that I can do most of it myself. I don't know the first thing about motorcycle maintenance and know just a bit about cars. I'm going to try to get a SoCal AI bike/maintenence/bbq day together where we can borrow someone's garage and go over the basics on bikes.
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Dec 28, 2008 09:18
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Quick Draw posted:Did a lot of reading on these forums but obviously didn't use any of it and made a bad first purchase. Ok, that's a lot of work, but it's all doable by a new rider. Replacement petcock: To ebay. Chain/sprocket - time consuming the first time you do it, but not bad. Rear rim is bent - should get that checked by a professional...something like that can be really dangerous. Speed sensor...well, that's why your speedo isn't working. Sprocket cover damaged, no biggy, it's just there to cover the sprocket. Get a used one on ebay. Valve cover gasket just needs to be pulled, checked for leaks or tears, and replaced/reinstalled. Oil is dark means oil change. Air filter is oil soaked...just over lubed. May be exacerbating the stalling issue. Clutch seal leaking, not a big deal, just get a new seal, usually they just press in and out. Carbs, again, not that big a deal, but will take some time. Honestly, here your choice is if you really want to get into it. Count on spending a few hundred picking up all the new tools you need, and the parts you need. Maybe easier/cheaper to just get a new rim on ebay. Buy a multimeter, start the bike, rev to 4k or so, and check the voltage at the battery. If it's 14 or so, you're good to go. If it's spiking or below 13/over 15, you have a problem with your charging system that needs to be addressed. Luckily, that's relatively cheap to deal with. So...you've made some mistakes, but nothing too bad yet. Count on a total of around 500 or so $ to get everything fixed up and buy some tools, and you should have a nice running bike. Can you afford that? Edit: Quick breakdown of parts costs: 150$ for chain/sprocket 150$ of assorted tools. 20$ for the clutch seal 25$ for the countershaft sprocket cover Oil/filter - 30$ Petcock - 20$ or so on ebay Carbs - anywhere from free to clean, to 20-100$ in parts. Valve cover gasket - 20-50$? somewhere in there. Speed sensor...probably can be found for cheap on ebay. Most likely just a hall effect sensor. Maybe a part that needs to be replaced. Anywhere from 20-50$. Z3n fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jan 6, 2009 |
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Jan 6, 2009 07:05
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