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F4is seem horribly overvalued. I would guess other F4is in your area are near 5k. Start yours at the going rate and see how it goes. Sort of a bad time of year to sell a bike.
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Oct 8, 2008 22:09
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iroc_dis posted:Yea I figured that much. Ideally I'd like to sell it March of next year or so. Also, its not an F4i Oh well then that does make a difference. The F4 is pretty undervalued, I'd say 4k is probably a good starting point.
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Oct 8, 2008 22:30
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waptang posted:My brother and I have been tossing the idea around of getting a dirt bike or two or something similar for screwing around during the winter. Dirt bikes, as well as two-strokes (these two seem to go hand-in-hand) are pretty foreign to me, so I'm just looking for a little guidance on what I should be looking for. You need to say a lot more about what you want to do with the bikes, you ability levels, and how much you want to spend.
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Oct 10, 2008 01:16
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The F650 is a pretty slow bike isn't it? I wouldn't be surprised if it really isn't much faster then your CB. The VTR1000s are neat bikes, but they do have some issues with the cam chain tensioner failing if you don't watch them. They get really noisy first, but you can expect them to fail at around 20k. Neat bikes, but they will get pretty crummy MPG - think less then 35 miles per US gallon. I own a 5th gen VFR800 - I would imagine this would be the generation you are considering. It's a really great all around sporty touring bike. The fuel injection transition from shut to open throttle sucks a bit. That's really the only complaint I have with the bike. Very smooth engines and handle quite nicely even though they are a bit heavy. The SV650 you'll find to be quite a bit slower then your ZZR and the S riding position is pretty much a pure sportbike. Not very touring friendly for most people. I would toss in the FZ6/FZ1 in the mix if you can swing them. Both great bikes and the riding position is very touring friendly.
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Jan 14, 2009 20:39
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Zadmaster: Sounds like you are heading down the right track, but I'd encourage you to look at a relatively cheap ~$1500 bike to start with. Cheap bikes are terribly easy to sell and chances are you won't be the first person putting a scratch on it. Spend a season riding a beater and then step into a bike that is nice and shiny. Your pocketbook will thank you.
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Jan 27, 2009 00:50
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Hughmoris posted:Thanks for the information. I did a little more research on it, seems that the riding position on it is pretty brutal for any sort of distance, so being a bigger guy I'm going to avoid that one. I did however find this gem: Pretty awesome bikes. Gear driven cams and a very smooth v4 motor. The givi bags and corbin are worth $1000 or so alone. Pretty moderate sporty riding position with lots of options for bars if you want to make it more comfortable.
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Feb 22, 2009 21:23
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You can also retrofit Buell Lightning (I think that's the model) footpegs onto most any sportbike as well. They are a standard peg except they drop about 3/4" of an in from where the pin mounts. This really makes a huge difference if you are craving a bit of extra legroom. Here is a link to a howto: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t18932.html
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Feb 25, 2009 20:26
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A friend's dad just got a blackbird. The friend really likes it and says the motor is even smoother than my VFR800. Bastard! At any rate they're pretty cool bikes and I'd definitely buy one if I was in the market.
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Mar 17, 2009 01:04
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kdc67 posted:The running joke on Hondas is they don't mix well with being able to do work on them. The only place this is a running joke is where people think the sun rises and sets in Neroboro's pants.
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Mar 22, 2009 17:17
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MourningGlory posted:There are a couple local dealerships that supposedly offer test rides. I'll see what they can do. All the 600s I've ridden are still drat fast even below their 10k big hit. I think if you go to a new or almost new sportbike you'll find the riding position to be even more extreme than what you get on an SVS which is already pretty humped over. Your requirement of ABS does limit your choices a fair amount, and frankly I don't know which bikes out there offer it. A VFR would be a good option but it doesn't look like they offer the ABS model here in the states. It's probably not worth the effort to try to retrofit it. The only other options I could think of would be a BMW of some sort - maybe the 800ST - but that's probably not sporty enough for what you are looking for.
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Apr 1, 2009 06:19
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I like the linked brakes on my VFR as well. I've never noticed the rear braking when using the front. It's pretty funny to hit the rear brake and watch the front dive a bit. About the only complaint is it makes steel braided lines a bit expensive and more of a pain to fit. In addition bleeding the system is a little more complicated. I felt the feedback on the stock brakes for my 2000 were good enough to not need steel braided lines.
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Apr 1, 2009 07:09
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Simkin posted:drat, that looks like it would be a stupid amount of fun. Are you planning to compete in anything if you pick it up, or just terrorize everything within 100km? I think the guy is right, until 2007 they were owned by MV Agusta and were essentially Cagivas.
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Apr 13, 2009 21:36
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Gnaghi posted:I might be picking up this Husqvarna sm450r this weekend, is there anything I should look out for? My understanding is they are roughly halfway between street SMs like the DRZ and more "race replica" SMs like the KTMs. There are two dealers in my area, so I won't be up the creek when it comes to service. Well the guy is a moron and likes wasting money. Unless he's had the compression increased it shouldn't need av gas. I guess you could have some carbon buildup from not totally burning the fuel but I doubt it's an issue. With regard to it's "race replica" nature I'm pretty sure it falls much closer to a KTM race bike than a DRZ. If you plan on putting a decent amount of miles on this bike you'll be looking at doing a fair amount of maintenance.
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Apr 16, 2009 17:15
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You can get new leftovers for 8k all day long: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hond...SQ5fmotorcycles
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Apr 25, 2009 03:58
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My advice is to always buy the cheapest reliable bike you can find that fits into what is considered a good beginner bike unless money really isn't an issue. I think ideally you spend <$1500 if you can. The reason being that not only may you drop the bike, you may go down on the bike at enough speed to at least cause a reasonably large amount of damage to the bike. That being said, a naked SV with moto sliders is an amazingly sturdy bike to crash without taking too much damage. I know this because I dumped mine a couple of times at the track and pretty high speeds. I'd shoot for getting an SV that isn't perfect looks wise, but is fine mechanically. I would not buy the S model as it really is a bit of a pointless bike.
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Apr 26, 2009 12:28
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Phy posted:Alright, this is speculative in the extreme, just for the purposes of makin' conversation. Assuming I'm still employed by the end of the year, I'm hoping to get into one of: Where do you live? My friend is selling a ZRX1100 that is in really good shape, he's located in Washington state.
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Apr 28, 2009 21:14
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Vertigo: I'd try like hell to see if you can get test rides on all of the bikes you are considering. I'd say if cost of ownership and reliability are you concerns you will be best served by one of the Japanese bikes.
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May 8, 2009 08:02
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Z3n posted:The DRZ400 is very lax on maintenence for a dirtbike. About the same as a sportbike. You really should be changing the oil on a DRZ400 every 1500 miles according to the thumpertalk gurus. Valve checks are every 6000 miles. The motor won't last nearly as long a a sportbike would, but you can rebuild the top ends without breaking the bank. You won't be putting the miles on a DRZ that you would on a street bike. The one caution I have is they aren't much fun to ride over 70mph and unless you get a corbin seat you're rear end will hurt after 2hr.
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Jun 10, 2009 07:39
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Sig: I've owned or ridden a number of the bikes you are considering, and I like to swap bikes around as well. I would encourage you to start looking at bikes that are a bit cheaper to buy and sell as it seems like you've got a number of bikes you'd like to buy or own. I try to stick right around the 4k mark for my main street bike as that seems like a sweet spot for both buying and selling a bike without too much hassle but is still in good shape. With regard to VFRs the older you get - the more sporty of a bike you end up with. If you think a BMW feels boring/precise you will fall asleep on a Honda. I think the bike you are riding is pretty funky and if you don't like the sound - just toss a slipon on the bike. Given the economy these days you're probably staring down taking a pretty big hit if you sell the bike now. It seems to me that BMWs take a pretty decent initial depreciation hit, then they really level out. I think all the bikes that you mentioned and the bikes that have been suggested are all really good bikes. I'd also toss out considering a CBR1100XX blackbird with a set of heli/convertibars. Also the ZZR like z3n just got would be another good choice. Here is a pretty cool Aprilia ST bike: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/mcy/1224130360.html My friend is selling a ZRX1100 that is in really nice shape for the low 3s if you are interested. It's actually a really nice bike to tour on - lots of windscreen options if you want more wind protection.
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Jun 16, 2009 16:14
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Be warned that the 4 valve watercooled Ducati motors ARE a bitch to maintain compared to the aircooled 2 valve setups. I believe the valve adjustments are a bit more involved and I there is probably other stuff you have to worry about as well.
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Jun 17, 2009 07:30
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Kynetx posted:Thanks for the suggestion. I should mention that I'm leaning toward a dual-sport now and less toward a cruiser. I'm having trouble finding a list of singles out there. Any suggestions for further reading? Pretty much all the Japanese dual sports are singles.
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Jun 17, 2009 17:41
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Phy posted:Yeah, pretty much the only one I can think of off the top of my head that isn't is the KLE 500 and that's Euro/Aus only. You're mostly suggesting some rather big bikes and some bikes that tend to be fairly expensive. If you like the idea of a small thumper/DS that can be had for <$2k there are all sorts of lower displacement Japanese dual sports that are still a lot of fun to ride. They happen to be quite popular around here as most of the roads are ~35mph speed limits and we have lots of forest service roads and trails around here. There are a number of displacements available for all of these models: Honda XR series Yamaha XT series Suzuki DR series Kawasaki KLR/X stuff (not sure they did as many as the others) Most of them are aircooled and quite simple to work on. You do generally get what you pay for and I would encourage you to buy the best one you can afford/find. Bikes that need fixing up - especially ones where the good condition/good running ones may be only $500-$1000 more do not generally make good project bikes. A few expensive items that need replacing and you're into it way more than you would be just buying one in good shape.
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Jun 18, 2009 02:01
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Pretty spendy, but very clean bikes. You do realize that rebuilding forks isn't much beyond new fork seals and new oil right? I would say the Kawasaki is a better choice because I bet that thing is a partsbin tank of a bike. I'd be a bit more concerned about parts and reliability of the fazer but I admit to not knowing much about them. If the Kawasaki needs *nothing* i.e. has new tires/chain/good brakes/all working electrical I could see paying $1500 for it. Where do you live and what is your budget? It looks like you're looking for a smaller cruiser style bike that has a 4 cyl motor?
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Jun 18, 2009 02:46
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Yuns has had an MV for quite a while and I think he's had pretty good luck with it reliability wise. I would wager that bike is a lot more uncomfortable than even a 675, I guess that'd be my only warning.
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Jul 23, 2009 01:05
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Becktastic posted:I'm a 5'5 girl looking for a good adventure bike. I've been riding a 125cc scooter for about a year and I'd like something more powerful and off road capable. Buying a new dual sport really is silly because most of them are rarely updated and can be found in the used markets quite easily. At your height, given your riding experience, I think it'd be a mistake to buy a full size dirtbike. If you do buy a fullsize bike, you're going to want to look into you options with regard to lowering it. Generally with a dirtbike you can get longer dogbones for the rear shock, and you can shave the the seat quite a bit. You want to be looking for the smaller displacement dualsports - they are as follows: Honda XR / Yamaha XT / Suzuki DR / Kawasaki KLX/KLR (I think). I'm not aware of any significant reliability issues with any of the aircooled japanese dualsports. Personally, I would be shooting for Hondas / Yamahas if I had a choice. With dirtbikes, unfortunately you are either looking at reliable/heavy/slow or light/fast/high maintenance (not necessarily unreliable). Then you mix in wanting to ride it on the street and you add a bunch of weight, and generally worse tires. Do you have specific areas in mind that you want to ride? Do you want to do highway riding? Do you want to have a bike you could really have fun with offroad - i.e. jump it? You also need to be aware that offroad riding generally requires a fair amount of addition gear in the way of boots, helmet, armor, and braces.
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Aug 5, 2009 17:51
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VTNewb posted:Really good advice. Also, if the bike does not have a SKIDPLATE, do not offroad it till you get one. I swear I post the same thing everytime someone is looking at a dirtbike/DS.
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Aug 5, 2009 18:13
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Gnomad posted:It might be a bit on the small side for you. The KR3 Proton MotoGP bike is pretty good offroad too, you should consider those as well - check this out:  Click here for the full 800x555 image.
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Aug 12, 2009 18:49
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Not knowing how to work on a bike really isn't a reason to buy new. If you buy a bike in good running shape you really shouldn't have to do any work on a bike that a new bike wouldn't need as well. If you wanted to take a class you could take an auto repair course and a small engine rebuilding class. There isn't much difference between cars and bikes with regard to the type of work you do. Bikes are just easier to do most things on compared to a car.
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Aug 25, 2009 16:49
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It's an especially bad idea to buy a bike that has been out and pretty much unchanged for ages. The XR650L has been the same since the mid 80s or something crazy and the DR is also quite old. If you've got the cash and want to buy some new hot poo poo bike then go for it. That would only apply to people that have enough riding experience to not have newbie drops/dumps/crashes.
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Aug 25, 2009 17:25
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Oakey posted:This is kind of funny to me, one of the things I'm considering doing is getting some new pegs so they're a little lower on my RSV. You can get Buell footpegs for $35 that will lower it down about .5-.75" don't listen to what all the snobby fags on the Apriliaforums say.
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Sep 15, 2009 17:08
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Spiffness posted:The DRZ S (dual sport model) does a lot better on the highways than the SM does (which is what most of the talk here is about). How is the S model any better than the SM? I think the SM has slightly taller gearing - but other than that there is no difference between them.
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Oct 10, 2009 02:35
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iroc_dis posted:Nah I live in SC. The friend that suggested it said that the dealership would deliver the bike to a parking lot just on the GA side to get around the TN sales tax. I'd end up either registering it in SC under my name or in VA under my dad's name. If you are not a resident of the state you should never pay sales tax in that state.
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Oct 21, 2009 18:16
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I don't think there is anything wrong with wearing a hand me down helmet as long as it's in good shape and fits your properly. Pull back the liner and look at the styrofoam shell. If it has any crack in it, then the helmet is done. If there are none, and the shell doesn't have any damage on it I don't see why it wouldn't be fine. In addition if the helmet is old you would want to pass on that. I think the helmet makers say 5 years, but those are the people trying to sell you lids. I also don't see why you couldn't get fine gear for well less than $500. Just shop around for decently priced textile gear, you can normally get jackets and pants for $100 each if you shop around. Another $50 for gloves and you're set if you own some over the ankle hiking boots.
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Nov 9, 2009 16:58
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I've owned two 5th gen VFRs - they're very nice bikes if you want something sporty but comfortable. The only real knock I have against them is their fuel injection is not the greatest. They tend to surge a little right when you crack the throttle, there are some fixes out there for it. I found the power commander fix works reasonably well. I'd also say that my 2nd VFR didn't surge nearly as much as the first. Maybe the 2000 model got a slight tweak? I'm no totally sure. I don't really see how anyone can hate on the linked brake system. I sort of thought it would be a pain but I don't think I ever had the bike act strangely under braking. Bleeding the system is a bit more involved but overall the brakes are quite good. I did a number of straight line emergency brake checks when I got the first one and I'm pretty sure you'd have to try like mad to lock the rear with just the front brake. You could ask on the vfr forums but I'd say it's practically impossible. From a feel perspective I had an R6 for a while with steel lines that definitely had better feel. The brakes are not amazing on the bike, but they aren't something that should stop you from buying the bike. Bird-o-matic mentions the FZ6 and z750 as alternatives which I think are sort of odd choices. The VFR was/is a top of the line Honda so a budget standards aren't really a good comparison. For what the VFR was made for it does very well - almost to the point of being boring. It's not a very quick turning bike but it's stable as hell and very easy to ride. The 5th gen runs on 87 and has something like a 200 mile range. If you want a bike that handles pretty drat well that doesn't have the comfort issues a sportbike has a VFR is a great choice. I currently own an Aprilia Falco and if you want something that is similar to a VFR but sportier I'd look into those. They can be had for the 4s all day long now. You'll need heli-bars and probably some buell footpegs on it to get it somewhat close to the comfort of the VFR. That $2900 one is a real bargain in my opinion - especially with the luggage.
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Apr 3, 2010 05:42
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timb posted:On the other hand, first gens are carbureted, which is a bigger maintenance and tuning hassle. SVs come with some of the best carbs I've ever had on a bike. You can start them and ride it with half choke no problem and I'm not aware of anyone having problems with them. Of course if you don't store the bike properly you'll run into problems.
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May 11, 2010 20:20
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Mcqueen posted:
I would look for a Tuono if you want a semi exotic that is pretty darn reliable. They've been making the Tuono for ages now and the engine is very proven. You can get one for less than most of the Shivers out there I would guess. I've owned a Falco for a couple of years now and I've had really no issues.
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Sep 23, 2010 22:32
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BlueBayou posted:Are there any dirt bikes that arent crazy tall? I like to be able to put both feet down when I come to a stop. Pretty sure lots of people can't get both feet down on a standard fullsize dirtbike. They're a lot lighter than streetbikes and you're not stopping all the time like a road bike. If you're doing lots of slow trail riding being able to get your feet down is probably nice. It just depends a lot on the type of riding you are planning on doing and your experience levels.
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Oct 26, 2010 21:52
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Neckbeard v. 2.0 posted:As a corollary to this, what sportbikes are more suited for tall people? I've been riding an FZ6 for 3 or 4 years now(actually maybe 5...whatever) and while I love it I'm getting the itch for something with clip-ons. I'm 6'3", not super tall but tall enough. The FZ6 is pretty comfortable but my knees are definitely high, and after long rides I'll sometimes get sore hips/cramped legs. I figure this will only be worse on a something not standard. I think you're pretty much screwed if your FZ6 bothers you. You'd be surprised what you get used to after you own something for a while. I think in general Hondas sportbikes do pretty well ergonomically. I recently rode a '04 CBR1000RR that had what I considered to be a surprising amount of legroom for what it is.
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Nov 4, 2010 08:41
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Korwen posted:what's the general thoughts on 94-01 Honda VFRs around here? The older ones are in my price range for used bikes, and the 98-01 fall just above my price range so still possible with some additional saving. I like their reputation as reliable sport-touring bikes, but I was wondering what the thoughts on owning them were here. You're talking about two different gens of bikes. I've owned two different 5th gen 98-01 VFRs. The valve checking thing is an issue w/ the VTEC 6th gen VFRs. Checking the valves on the gear driven VFRs is the same as any other bike, but you do have two different heads you have to mess with. The VFRs got less and less sporty as the generations went on. The fuel injection is not great on 5th gen VFR, I found the shut/cracked open throttle transistion to be quite surge quite a bit. On my first bike I tried the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator trick, and did not find it helped much. On my second bike I got a power commander and that really helped smooth things out. The 4th gen VFRs were known for having more trouble with their RRs than the 5th gens. I've never had the chance to ride a 4th gen, but I think I would prefer it because it is a fair bit sportier.
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Nov 8, 2010 20:41
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GanjamonII posted:what are some good sport touring bikes ala vfr 800? I've owned two VFR800s and I now own an Aprilia Falco.
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Dec 9, 2010 20:59
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