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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Speaking of brakes, why is there a bleeder-type screw at the reservoir of my Street Triple's front brake? Because it's a lot easier to bleed brakes from the high point. It makes it really easy to get air out of the master cylinder. Giraffe of pain posted:That's a CBX specialist tool for adjusting vents on 3 and 4. I don't think the public is even allowed to own one. You're really bad at this. But we love you for it anyways 
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 20:21 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 02:43 |
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Z3n posted:You're really bad at this. But we love you for it anyways Well, at least I always try to rescue a new motogoon from road rash before I go down in a blaze of glory.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 20:29 |
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Z3n posted:You're really bad at this. But we love you for it anyways No, Don't! you're ruining it for everyone! 
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 20:29 |
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Z3n posted:Oil change. What's the overall mileage? 20,000 miles. I think I can manage to do an oil change myself, but have no idea how to check chain tension. I figure I could lube it too? How? I think my brakes are getting sluggish. I like to think I'm hard on my brakes even though it's my first bike. They definitely feel weaker than when I just got the bike. Could be my imagination, though. Or just me getting used to motorcycle brakes.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 20:32 |
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KARMA! posted:No, Don't! you're ruining it for everyone! Don't blame Z3n. Blame that loving CBX. It's cursed. Spiders are a lot nicer.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 20:39 |
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Z3n posted:Check the radiator cap, not just the coolant reservoir. Went out today and the rad was full but the reservoir was now empty, so I guess it was low. I hate when that stuff changes overnight. Either way filled and bled it. 
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 20:50 |
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internet inc posted:20,000 miles. I think I can manage to do an oil change myself, but have no idea how to check chain tension. I figure I could lube it too? How? Most of what I've read seems to recommend a chain lube every ~400 miles or so, so I'd say you're due.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 20:55 |
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O- and X-ring chains shouldn't be lubed too much. They're much happier just being clean.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 21:02 |
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Giraffe of pain posted:Don't blame Z3n. Blame that loving CBX. It's cursed. Spiders are a lot nicer. I choose to believe that it has a heart of gold wrapped in a frame of pure evil. Remove frame, replace with a properly blessed Spondon with fittings of Ohlins. Draw the absorbed evil from it's engine with an exhaust molded from Scylla's body, and hear it expelled in the screams of 6 tiny dying cherubs. Gnaghi posted:Went out today and the rad was full but the reservoir was now empty, so I guess it was low. I hate when that stuff changes overnight. Either way filled and bled it. Usually the temperature sensor is located at the top, so even minor lowness in the radiator can cause it to spaz out.  internet inc posted:20,000 miles. I think I can manage to do an oil change myself, but have no idea how to check chain tension. I figure I could lube it too? How? Were the valves checked at 15k like they were supposed to be? Chain tension should be approximately 1.75 inches when measured from hanging to lifted. How much pad do you have left on the brakes? Your brake fluid probably needs to be flushed at the very least. Also, yes, lube the chain.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 21:11 |
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Z3n posted:Draw the absorbed evil from it's engine with an exhaust molded from Scylla's body, and hear it expelled in the screams of 6 tiny dying cherubs. So if the CBX more murmur'st, wouldst thou rend an oak and peg thee in his knotty entrails till it hast howled away twelve winters? 
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 22:52 |
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I've got some deep scratches on the small silver fairing on a '07 CBR600RR that I want to touch up. The dealership told me there is no OEM paint and ColorRite doesn't carry it either. I got some silver from the '06 on some internet hearsay, but it is far too dark. I tried mixing in some white acrylic, but it comes out an ugly gray, losing the metallics. I'm going to use some very light silver metallic paint to blend with the dark in my next attempt, but does anybody have any better informed suggestions on what I should do?
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 22:55 |
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Marv Hushman posted:So if the CBX more murmur'st, wouldst thou rend an oak and peg thee in his knotty entrails till it hast howled away twelve winters? Whatever it takes to make it sing the song that ends the earth. I really need to find a copy of that movie at some point Bixington posted:I've got some deep scratches on the small silver fairing on a '07 CBR600RR that I want to touch up. The dealership told me there is no OEM paint and ColorRite doesn't carry it either. I got some silver from the '06 on some internet hearsay, but it is far too dark. Which small silver fairing? Find an oem replacement on ebay.
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 23:04 |
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Bled the rear brake again, paying extra attention to everything, although I feel like I did everything the same. Reservoir was still full when I started, but now brake feel is back to rock solid. I checked everywhere along the lines for leaks and didn't see anything, and did some heavy pumps on the pedal to see if anything leaked or the pedal quality degraded noticeably. I guess now I'll just wait to see if it happens again and then I'll look into rebuilding the master cylinder?
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| # ? Jul 12, 2011 23:25 |
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Z3n posted:Which small silver fairing? Find an oem replacement on ebay.  The silver one with the CBR badge on it. I'd much rather just touch it up right now since ascetics matter to me to an extent, but I'm not trying to make something perfect that's apt to be wrecked again later.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 00:08 |
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Z3n posted:
Z3n posted:Whatever it takes to make it sing the song that ends the earth.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 01:29 |
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I remember them being pretty cheap. It's the Gauss guns that cost $. Yeah they're not horribly expensive unless you're a newb running around with a bunch of boring weapons. I remember when I first got the minigun...my god, the power in my hands. I wish they'd make a solid Syndicate remake. Figures that most of the movie sucks. Honestly, I'm not particular, any 6 cylinder motorcycle is pretty much good by me. I wonder how much you could strip down one of the BMW K1600GTs...
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 02:24 |
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Z3n posted:Figures that most of the movie sucks. Honestly, I'm not particular, any 6 cylinder motorcycle is pretty much good by me. I wonder how much you could strip down one of the BMW K1600GTs... I've thought the same thing. GT-fighter! 
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 02:42 |
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KARMA! posted:I tried to find the right size aquarium tubing since the common type had a diameter that was too small. Then I realized I'm a dumbass and heated up one ned with a lighter and put it over the brake nipple. So that's my tip. Another way, especially good for feeding stiff hose over barbed fittings, is to slip over a piece of hard tubing, metal or plastic, which has a reasonably snug fit over the hose. Just let a little bit of the hose poke out of the tube and then push on, using the tubing to impart much more force. Especially good for pneumatic hoses.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 11:11 |
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Last night I was out for a quick stop at the food store, when I pulled on my brake handle to slow down (GSXR handle on my SV) while incidentally looking at it at the same time, and I felt it pop, and saw the handle move in closer to the grip - its range of motion suddenly become worse. The handle was now pressing up against the grip as I attempted to stop. Now I can barely stop with the front brake. I managed to get back home and held off looking at the thing in the dark and would be looking closely at the thing after work today. Eeek. what does this tend to indicate? The handle has been "loose" for a while now (coming in close to the grip), and I thought I had to do a brake system flush to tighten it up. Now it's much worse.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 14:08 |
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the walkin dude posted:Last night I was out for a quick stop at the food store, when I pulled on my brake handle to slow down (GSXR handle on my SV) while incidentally looking at it at the same time, and I felt it pop, and saw the handle move in closer to the grip - its range of motion suddenly become worse. The handle was now pressing up against the grip as I attempted to stop. Now I can barely stop with the front brake. I managed to get back home and held off looking at the thing in the dark and would be looking closely at the thing after work today. Eeek. what does this tend to indicate? Is there any visible damage to the lever or pivot point? That's where I'd start. Otherwise, sounds like you might need a fresh master cylinder.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 16:43 |
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Fresh MC, meaning a complete replacement of the MC? Edit: I meant to say, I wasn't pulling that hard. It popped all of a sudden. Didn't see physical damage that was readily apparent. the walkin dude fucked around with this message at Jul 13, 2011 around 16:54 |
| # ? Jul 13, 2011 16:50 |
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Having problems keeping the slack out of my chain... CB550, new chain and sprockets... well around 1000-1200 miles on them now, but they are new as of this season. Just a regular clip chain, not an o-ring. I'm trying to get the adjusters lined up as good as I can with the marks on the swing arm so that they're obviously equal on both sides. Manual calls for 10mm of slack, which seems way too tight, but I'm not sure. Even if I set it for about 2cm or so, after a hundred miles or so it slacks way the hell off again (Just now i measured about 2 inches... waaay too loving much). I use the bike a lot, so I try to keep the chain lubed pretty good. If I'm going longer than 50 miles or so I throw some on. I mean, I understand a new chain will stretch, then you re adjust it and all will be right, apart from perhaps minor adjustments. After I first needed to adjust it, I thought it would be more or less fine but it slacked off pretty quickly again. I'm going through so many loving cotter pins! haha
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 17:57 |
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How much have you tightened it by now, it's gotta be close to the end of the swingarm? Throw an x-ring chain on it, it's so much better in every way.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 18:02 |
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There's still quite a bit left, actually. Normally if you turn the adjuster screws 2-3 turns, it gets pretty tight again. That only moves it a few millimeters down the swingarm. I think i still have around 5 more 'slots' left (each about half a cm apart) or so. I guess this is so you can get both sides of the hub lined up so the wheel isn't sitting in all crooked or anything. I'm new with all of this, so I don't know if this is just a particularity of the bike or what. It's just sort of annoying to have to adjust the chain every 100-150 miles.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 18:09 |
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Non-oring chains suck so bad. Replace it with an O or X-ring.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 18:43 |
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Carbonate posted:There's still quite a bit left, actually. Normally if you turn the adjuster screws 2-3 turns, it gets pretty tight again. That only moves it a few millimeters down the swingarm. I think i still have around 5 more 'slots' left (each about half a cm apart) or so. I guess this is so you can get both sides of the hub lined up so the wheel isn't sitting in all crooked or anything. As non-ring chains wear they do so faster and faster. O-ring chains do this when the o-rings start failing. Get a decent o-ring chain, carefully clean off all the stupid sticky grease it comes packed in with kerosene or parafin (don't worry, the o-rings will keep grease in all right places), then either oil it regularly with gear oil, get an automatic oiler or use a high quality 'dry' PTFE spray like Dupont Teflon or Wurth PTFE. Any kind of sticky chain 'wax' is only going to pick up grit and lube + grit = grinding paste.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 20:13 |
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Do carbed bikes have rev limiters? How do they work?
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 20:53 |
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Through the technowizard computer box. Spark is cut off as a function of engine speed not by how the engine receives fuel. The main jet will provide fuel for as long as you can rev the engine at full throttle (and turn it into a hand grenade).
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 20:55 |
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I'm looking at how-to guides for brake flushes. I went out to my bike to match up the information, when I discovered this: http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=ipqg6w&s=7 The brake bleed nipple screws are out, that far, on both calibers. Is this normal?
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 23:13 |
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the walkin dude posted:I'm looking at how-to guides for brake flushes. I went out to my bike to match up the information, when I discovered this: http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=ipqg6w&s=7
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 23:27 |
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They aren't leaking, I applied brake and looked closely. It's a GSXR1k front end so I guess different from the usual sv brakes.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 23:38 |
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JP Money posted:Through the technowizard computer box. Spark is cut off as a function of engine speed not by how the engine receives fuel. The main jet will provide fuel for as long as you can rev the engine at full throttle (and turn it into a hand grenade). So any bike on the road today, even the oldies, have rev limiters? neat.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 23:39 |
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KARMA! posted:So any bike on the road today, even the oldies, have rev limiters? neat. Cool thing about 2 strokes: They can be designed such that they have rev limiters because they stop making enough power to spin the motor any faster. Rev limiters through power drop off.
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| # ? Jul 13, 2011 23:41 |
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First time changing out the chain on my Drz... how bad did I screw it up? I forgot to slide the axle all the way in before I measured, so it ended up too long. My chain breaker pin broke despite a heavy amount of grinding... Does the chain slack look decent enough to ride until I can get a new breaker pin?
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| # ? Jul 14, 2011 00:04 |
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It's a DRZ, a lot of slack is fine.
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| # ? Jul 14, 2011 00:10 |
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Anyone have tips on bleeding this loving front brake on a DRZ? I've tried all my tricks to no avail. Vacuum bleeder, regular method, tapping the MC/Caliper, bleeding with the caliper up in the air above the MC, cracking the MC banjo - NOTHING is making the lever feel any better. I've never had this much trouble bleeding a set of brakes. Especially not on a single brake setup like this. I should mention they worked just fine when I changed the pads right beforehand. Came back and tried changing fluid and it's not going anywhere. No pressure in the lines whatsoever. I would say it's just one big bubble in the middle of the line but my vacuum bleeder leads me to believe it's not that since it pulled fluid through fine.
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| # ? Jul 14, 2011 00:13 |
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Z3n posted:It's a DRZ, a lot of slack is fine. I guess my worry is that since it's at the rearmost adjustment mark, as the chain stretches over time I won't have any room for adjustment. Regardless, time to have some fun! Thanks for the confidence boost.
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| # ? Jul 14, 2011 00:17 |
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JP Money posted:Anyone have tips on bleeding this loving front brake on a DRZ? I've tried all my tricks to no avail. Vacuum bleeder, regular method, tapping the MC/Caliper, bleeding with the caliper up in the air above the MC, cracking the MC banjo - NOTHING is making the lever feel any better. You gotta think of where the air bubble is: It's sitting in the middle of the high loop of the front brake line. No lever pressure means you still have air in there. I fixed mine by rotating the line into the master cylinder around and then jamming it down behind the headlight to get the high point in the line to be the master cylinder. You have to make sure that the highest point in the line is always the MC with no other high spots or rises in the line, otherwise air can get trapped in there. Dirtbike brakes suck to bleed due to the long rear end lines. UncleSkunk posted:I guess my worry is that since it's at the rearmost adjustment mark, as the chain stretches over time I won't have any room for adjustment. Regardless, time to have some fun! Thanks for the confidence boost. You should shorten it a link or so when you get the chance, but it's fine until you get the tool to break the chain again.
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| # ? Jul 14, 2011 00:20 |
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Looks like one final vacuum bleed did the trick. It has stainless lines with the dumbest loving banjo fitting I've seen yet so I think that was the problem. Rotating it seems to have possibly helped but there's just no room to run it through the headlight fairing as I'm not about to take it off. I'm not gonna fix what isn't broke (at this time anyway).
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| # ? Jul 14, 2011 00:42 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 02:43 |
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Z3n posted:Usually the temperature sensor is located at the top, so even minor lowness in the radiator can cause it to spaz out. Well it turns out when I topped off the coolant I didn't tighten the rad cap all the way.  As a result, today it spewed out coolant all over the front and hit some pretty hi temps. I had to shut the bike off and wait for it to cool down twice before I could make it into an ice cream shop and put $4 worth of bottled water in it. On top of that they only had smart water so it has sugar and whatever else in the system now. I'm probably just going to bleed the whole thing this weekend. For now I'm going to reread that article on how jap bikes are bulletproof to make myself feel better.
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| # ? Jul 14, 2011 19:43 |
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