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I have a Honda Rebel that I bought used, my first bike, and it used to hum like a weed whacker at high RPMs. Now, for whatever reason, it sounds all throaty and manly like a Harley or something, especially when I let off the throttle. Now I'm confused. Was it supposed to sound like the way it did before, or the way it does now? I did run some seafoam through it. Did my bike just go through puberty or something?
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 02:47 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 23:45 |
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Could be that the baffles are falling apart in your muffler or you might have an exhaust leak somewhere. I'd start it up and hold a rag over the tailpipe while it's idling. You won't have to push very hard to hear if you have a leak somewhere. Just be careful and don't burn yourself.
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 06:15 |
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 Well THERE'S your problem. Apparently the exhaust rusted and snapped off. That's lovely. Are emissions the only concern here or will riding it like this temporarily mess up the engine?  This morning I come out to find my license plate torn off and something dripping out of what look like drain tubes. It doesn't feel like oil and doesn't smell like gas, but i had to work the starter for 30 seconds before i could get it to come to life. It this thing about to keel over on me?
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 15:27 |
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1. You run the risk of burning the exhaust valve. 2. Wild-rear end guess: loose/leaking float bowl drain screw?
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 15:47 |
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Given the ripped off plate, was someone screwing around with your bike? Maybe someone pissed in the airbox? There's an outside chance it's battery acid too. Follow the drain tube and tell us what it drains. There are drains for the carbs (float vents), the airbox, and the battery in most bikes.
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 16:42 |
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Well, I posted a couple of question to a Connie forum and the couple of people that replied recommend against strapping it down via the handlebars and instead going via the tree. The only thing that concerns me with that is that the Tacomas tie downs are along the top of the box and I'm not sure if I'm going to get a good enough angle to suck it down and/or contact the fairing. There are floor tie downs in the back of the box but that would make me back the bike in, and that wouldn't be my first choice either because of 10 hours at highway speeds pushing the windshield back. Does the concern about strapping it via the handle bars sound legit?
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 20:19 |
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slidebite posted:Well, I posted a couple of question to a Connie forum and the couple of people that replied recommend against strapping it down via the handlebars and instead going via the tree. The only thing that concerns me with that is that the Tacomas tie downs are along the top of the box and I'm not sure if I'm going to get a good enough angle to suck it down and/or contact the fairing. Why did they recommend against strapping it down via the handlebars? I've seen people ruin grips and throttle tubes by being idiots with their connecting points, but the handlebars are pretty durable, and looping the cloth part of the tiedown around the base of the handlebars is usually fine.
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 20:25 |
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http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...&WT.MC_ID=10010 Go get those and you won't have any issues at all. I used a pair to tie down my old F4i and it was incredibly helpful. Prevents any damage to the bars too as well as giving you a nice extension on the tiedowns. You just loop it around your bars and then you can attach the tiedown hook into the open loop. It lets you tie onto the triples or the bars, whichever is easier.
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 20:30 |
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Z3n posted:Why did they recommend against strapping it down via the handlebars? I've seen people ruin grips and throttle tubes by being idiots with their connecting points, but the handlebars are pretty durable, and looping the cloth part of the tiedown around the base of the handlebars is usually fine. I'm beginning to wonder about that forum, the posters there are now talking about how putting it in the back of a truck at all is a bad idea period and how it would be in peril.  JP Money posted:http://www.motorcycle-superstore.co...&WT.MC_ID=10010 Do you guys think there would be enough of an angle considering the tie down is at the top of the box like the circle in the photo? slidebite fucked around with this message at Aug 27, 2011 around 20:32 |
| # ? Aug 27, 2011 20:30 |
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slidebite posted:"Not load bearing", which sounds a little odd since I'm certain you can compress the suspsion without damaging anything via the bars. You will be 100% fine. Absolutely fine. If the bike falls out of the back or a handlebar breaks off, call me up. If you can do an endo and stand on the bars, then compressing the shock with your bodyweight via the bars is fine. I've tied many a bike to many a truck. My friend even trusted me with his brand-new 999 and a single ratchet strap in the back of a u-haul trailer. I wrapped the bars, and went to the side rails, higher than the bed of that truck, and that was it. Single strap, the bike didn't move a single inch after over a thousand miles of completely asstastic roads. Put as many straps on it as you want. If you compress the rear shock as well, you've got the weight of the bike, plus the springs, plus the super grip of the rear tire making sure the bike doesn't move laterally. Add that to all the same stuff up front, and you could roll the truck without the bike coming out or shifting. (not quite, but pretty close)
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 20:37 |
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According to some web searches, the drain tube that was leaking came out of the airbox. It's really rainy around here, is it possible that water leaked in from the crack in the exhaust and made its way into the airbox? e: on second thought that doesn't seem logical at all.
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 22:32 |
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Consider this: the person who took your license plate also peed on your bike.
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| # ? Aug 27, 2011 23:34 |
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slidebite posted:"Not load bearing", which sounds a little odd since I'm certain you can compress the suspsion without damaging anything via the bars. I'd say that's them being sissies, unless the bars (or risers) are made of incredibly thin-walled poo poo. I'd be more worried about the angle on the risers and if it might make it impossible to crank the front end down in your truck, with the tie-down points as they exist.
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| # ? Aug 28, 2011 00:08 |
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Phy posted:I'd say that's them being sissies, unless the bars (or risers) are made of incredibly thin-walled poo poo. I'd be more worried about the angle on the risers and if it might make it impossible to crank the front end down in your truck, with the tie-down points as they exist. Yeah, I actually took a good look at those anchor points on the Tacoma and I don't think I'd trust them to crank down a 700lb bike anyhow. I can deflect them if I reef on them by hand. So, I rented a U-Haul bike trailer. U-hauls in general scare the hell out of me, but I figure it's probably safer than having some weaker than poo poo anchor points flake out on me. I actually stopped by a the local kawi dealer and looked at a concours they had in the showroom. The bars are pretty much non-existent for an anchor point. I think it'd have to strap around the base where the bars go into the forks. I'm thinking that I'm going to be strapping off the tree anyhow, although man it's pretty tight down there. It might be fun strapping the bloody thing down.
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| # ? Aug 28, 2011 00:22 |
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slidebite posted:Yeah, I actually took a good look at those anchor points on the Tacoma and I don't think I'd trust them to crank down a 700lb bike anyhow. I can deflect them if I reef on them by hand. You'll be fine on the base of the bars, or around the triple trees. This is why you float it over the sidestand, and run tiedowns from the rear pegs forward. That way if any tiedown breaks, it'll end up on the sidestand and still be in the back of the truck.
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| # ? Aug 28, 2011 00:40 |
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Well, you guys are going to shoot me but I'm not going to be worrying about it. I'm flying after all! On a whim I checked Air Canada again and they dropped their fair today for some bizarre reason. It's now only $250 taxes all in one way. Gas alone would have cost almost that let alone the trailer rental and wiring kit I'd need to buy. Hopefully the roads are reasonable and it doesn't dump on me!
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| # ? Aug 28, 2011 01:05 |
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slidebite posted:Well, you guys are going to shoot me but I'm not going to be worrying about it. You'll be fine. Don't let gravel scare you. You are absolutely fine unless you are at max lean going through a drat gravel pit honestly. People freak out over a few pebbles when honestly your tires are sticky enough to soak them up and roll right over them in a turn. Think of how little time the tire really spends on top of a pebble in a turn and you'll be a lot less worried. On the plus side you get an awesome long trip on a new bike, I'm incredibly jealous! Have a safe, fun trip and take a few pics for everyone!
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| # ? Aug 28, 2011 09:45 |
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JP Money posted:You'll be fine. Don't let gravel scare you. You are absolutely fine unless you are at max lean going through a drat gravel pit honestly. People freak out over a few pebbles when honestly your tires are sticky enough to soak them up and roll right over them in a turn. Think of how little time the tire really spends on top of a pebble in a turn and you'll be a lot less worried. I've ridden on gravel for many, many years. Gravel on its own doesn't concern me so much as the soft spots and potholes from the heavy traffic. But your right, I was just a little concerned about a big heavy 150+HP bike that I've never ridden before. But, I suspect it will be perfectly fine and just the original owner was a little bit concerned about his own riding ability which is fair. And you bet, I'll be taking photos.
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| # ? Aug 28, 2011 16:54 |
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 Small, crappy image, but that's my RS125 strapped down on the back of my dad's ute. It's got six eyebolts attached through the tray (originally to strap down a water tank to, but it also works for bikes!), and we used, I think, five of them. Two straps through/around the top yoke of the triples on the front, two through the rearsets on the left and one of the right. Didn't move an inch in ~60km.
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| # ? Aug 29, 2011 04:13 |
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I'm current living in Switzerland, but moving to Norway pretty soon. How can I move my motorbike with me? Driving it is not an option as I can't carry my suitcases with me, and renting a van would cost $1000+. Any ideas?
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| # ? Aug 29, 2011 19:44 |
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Womens Jeans posted:I'm current living in Switzerland, but moving to Norway pretty soon. How can I move my motorbike with me? Driving it is not an option as I can't carry my suitcases with me, and renting a van would cost $1000+. Any ideas? Are you staying for some time? Watch out so you don't get slapped with the tax stick. (massive legalese text) http://www.toll.no/templates_TAD/Ar...&epslanguage=en Alternatives: 1. Have your luggage packed up and shipped with TNT/DHL/etc, ride bike up. 2. Leave bike behind, fly back later for it. 3. Man up and pack those suitcases on the bike!
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| # ? Aug 29, 2011 20:33 |
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Ola posted:3. Man up and pack those suitcases on the bike! Do this because  also post pics of your epic adventures across the untamed wilds of Europe.
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| # ? Aug 29, 2011 21:10 |
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I have two slightly silly questions for you guys. If I used the wrong trim clip where one was missing, will my bike be sad or something? I kinda figured that it would be better to hold the front inside fairing on instead of letting it rattle around, but then I got to worrying that maybe I'd mess up the connecting point by using the wrong clip or something. Also, the shifter lever seems kinda... jiggly. It's where it pivots at the frame before it goes forward again to the transmission. There's about 1 mm of play and I can scoot the washer around with my fingers. My bike is a 2005 CBR 600 F4i.
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| # ? Aug 29, 2011 22:18 |
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Ghost Cactus posted:I have two slightly silly questions for you guys. First one...you're fine. Second one, where is it jiggly? Can you take a picture pointing at? Most of the time it's a non-issue, but I had a situation on my GSX-R where crash damaged caused it to have some play, and it probably would have worked it's way loose eventually.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 00:15 |
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How bad of an idea would it be to have my forks rebuilt with aftermarket seals (ie. K&L). Shooting myself in the foot long-run? I can always run up to Traxxion and buy OEM, but I'm trying to save money since I can order aftermarket with a significant discount.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 05:12 |
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Seems like aftermarket seals just don't hold up 
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 05:40 |
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Boo. Oh well, thanks. Looks like I'll be going OEM. I'd prefer to do that than to have to rip the forks off again in 8k miles.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 13:32 |
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Z3n posted:First one...you're fine. Thanks much, and here's a picture of the jiggly part:  I'm wondering how to fit any sort of tool in there to tighten it up, unless I'm overthinking it and there's an easy way.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 14:02 |
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On my bike (I think) that is a fixed spindle with a circlip and a washer to hold it on. Depending on how loose it is, you might be able to squeeze an extra washer in there to reduce the freeplay a little.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 15:40 |
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Ghost Cactus posted:I have two slightly silly questions for you guys. I've sourced some F4i trim clips from china and I have more than enough. They are exactly the same as the ones that came stock on the f4i. I will send you a few if you cover shipping. you can contact me via pm.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 15:48 |
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Ghost Cactus posted:Thanks much, and here's a picture of the jiggly part: Remove the 2 rearset bolts, then you can flip it over and tighten it up. I wouldn't shim it with a washer as it needs some free play in order to be able to pivot and shift the bike. If you flip it and it's tight and the bike hasn't been crashed, it's probably just loose from factory tolerances and I wouldn't worry about it.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 16:08 |
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xd posted:I've sourced some F4i trim clips from china and I have more than enough. They are exactly the same as the ones that came stock on the f4i. I will send you a few if you cover shipping. you can contact me via pm. This is excellent, thank you - PMed. Z3n posted:Remove the 2 rearset bolts, then you can flip it over and tighten it up. I wouldn't shim it with a washer as it needs some free play in order to be able to pivot and shift the bike. If you flip it and it's tight and the bike hasn't been crashed, it's probably just loose from factory tolerances and I wouldn't worry about it. That makes way more sense than "oh god the frame is in the way." I'll try that - thanks.
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| # ? Aug 30, 2011 17:22 |
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My 06 636 started doing this the other day. I fully charged the battery and that did nothing. I have no idea where to start. Does anyone have any ideas? Sorry there isn't much other info I can offer the video seems to show it all. When you hit the starter it does nothing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDanzM0Nu94
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| # ? Aug 31, 2011 22:09 |
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SaucyPants posted:My 06 636 started doing this the other day. I fully charged the battery and that did nothing. I have no idea where to start. Does anyone have any ideas? Sorry there isn't much other info I can offer the video seems to show it all. When you hit the starter it does nothing. What's the voltage at the battery at rest? Battery could have failed. That's the first place to start.
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| # ? Aug 31, 2011 23:07 |
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Z3n posted:What's the voltage at the battery at rest? Battery could have failed. That's the first place to start. i think 12 or 12.5 ill go check
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| # ? Aug 31, 2011 23:13 |
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SaucyPants posted:i think 12 or 12.5 ill go check Check it with the key on but the bike off too.
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| # ? Aug 31, 2011 23:19 |
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the voltage jumps all over the place once you turn the key on. it drops to 10 and then flickers between 11 and 13.4 once you shut the key off voltage jumps to 15 and then returns to 12.5
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| # ? Aug 31, 2011 23:23 |
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SaucyPants posted:the voltage jumps all over the place once you turn the key on. it drops to 10 and then flickers between 11 and 13.4 once you shut the key off voltage jumps to 15 and then returns to 12.5 Battery definitely needs to be replaced. Sounds like it's failed internally.
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| # ? Aug 31, 2011 23:28 |
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I posted about this before, and was told by Z3n to post if it happened again. Bike wouldn't start. Can generally only hear a loud clicking noise (starter motor?) and have to put choke on max & throttle on full to make it even go. Battery? -e- I have a multimeter so I can test. What should I be looking for? For example, voltage values of: turn key on, start bike, bike on idle ... ?
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| # ? Sep 1, 2011 01:28 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 23:45 |
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Check the voltage with the bike off and the key on but not running. Should be in the high 12s off, and a bit lower on, but definitely not below 12. Will the bike even start at the moment?
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| # ? Sep 1, 2011 03:19 |
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