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DOOKIE ROPES YO posted:Are you looking for OEM parts or aftermarket mods? Mostly OEM, the bike seems in good shape and the guy wasn't too mechanical, had a fetish for zap-straps for some reason. What I need is left crank cover/gasket, kill switch, drive chain guide, stuff like that (oh yeah fork seals too). Thanks to you and z3n for the reply, I'll use your link and price match the local shops, they might be close.
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Oct 7, 2008 07:10
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:52 |
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I had my bike up for sale a while back and got this e-mail:Email posted:i saw your add on craigs and i wanted to know if you'd consider renting/leasing me your bike over the winter months, nov, dec, jan- i'm just wrapping up a promo tour for toyota and will be spending the off season in monterey starting nov 1st- i'm planning on going back on the road in feb to do a tour so i don't really want to buy a new bike and then have to turn around and sell it or store it afterwards when i leave again. i've been riding for 20+ years and really don't want to ship/ride my bike from wyoming so i'm reaching out to sellers on here to see if they'd be interested in loaning it out for a while- i'd be willing to pay up to 300 a month + the cost of full coverage on the motorcycle- i've done this before in other off seasons and would like to do it again- let me know what you think and get back to me when you can- I decided to keep my bike, but if I needed some spare cash how good of an idea is this?
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Oct 7, 2008 07:43
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Logite posted:I had my bike up for sale a while back and got this e-mail: Are you honestly asking how good of an idea it is to lease a bike to a stranger?
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Oct 7, 2008 14:58
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To make a short, painful story shorter my GS500E fell off its kickstand while warming up, partially engaged my center stand on the way down, and forced my handlebar to take the full weight of the bike. The clutch lever bent completely in half and snapped off. No matter how hard I pull on the cable it no longer disengages the clutch. The side of the bars that fell may also be slightly bent. I had been planning on replacing the clutch anyway, so it's not that terrible. So, though I've been reading everything I can online, how daunting will this be? It doesn't look too bad, but I'm wondering what curveballs the cable being messed up is going to throw at me. What do I need exactly? So far I have friction plates/clutch plates/fiber plates/whatever and a new lever on my list. Short of maybe a spring what else should I be picking up? The bike was shifting fine, just slipping, so I doubt the clutch basket needs to be replaced or anything. How daunting is this going to be? Any and all advice or wisdom you may have would be welcome.
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Oct 7, 2008 15:16
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It'll be easy. Take a shop manual, take your time, don't overtorque the cover bolts, and it's pie. At worst, you may have hosed up the actuator shaft somehow, but I doubt it. If you have to order a new part, your bike may be down for awhile, while you wait for the part to show up, but it shouldn't be that bad.
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Oct 7, 2008 17:29
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Bob Sapp Please posted:I had a '86 Rebel as my first bike. Paid $100 for it, sold it 6 months later for $700, but it was not in the condition that one is. Dead simple to work on and fairly reliable, but you will get bored drat fast. It's slow, but it will turn like crazy. Sounds like what I'm looking for  I'm going to meet with the guy in a few hours, hopefully I can talk him down in price and have a new bike to show off to AI.
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Oct 7, 2008 17:59
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Z3n posted:It'll be easy. Take a shop manual, take your time, don't overtorque the cover bolts, and it's pie. At worst, you may have hosed up the actuator shaft somehow, but I doubt it. If you have to order a new part, your bike may be down for awhile, while you wait for the part to show up, but it shouldn't be that bad. Considering that the bike is down regardless and the clutch cable, despite seemingly having tension, is not disengaging the clutch so I can't even roll it into the garage I'd say that's not my main concern.
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Oct 7, 2008 18:20
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Whoa. Wife Turds posted:Considering that the bike is down regardless and the clutch cable, despite seemingly having tension, is not disengaging the clutch so I can't even roll it into the garage I'd say that's not my main concern. I just happen to have a GS Twins shop manual lying around (don't ask). What year is your bike? When you get all your pieces and parts together and are ready to go, let me know and I'll scan the relevant pages for you.
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Oct 7, 2008 18:34
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DOOKIE ROPES YO posted:I just happen to have a GS Twins shop manual lying around (don't ask). What year is your bike? !!! It's a '94.
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Oct 7, 2008 18:37
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You're in luck, mine covers GS Twins from 89-97. When I get home from work I'll check the garage. If it's not there, then my friend (who actually owns a 96 GS500E) has it. If that's the case, I'll get it from him this weekend.
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Oct 7, 2008 18:44
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Whoa. Wife Turds posted:It's a '94.
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Oct 7, 2008 18:54
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Heres a question. The Bandit doesnt have a clock, and this bugs me. I see plenty of stick-on battery operated clocks. Those are all well and good, but I do a significant amount of night riding. What I want, and I know this is asking alot, is a clock with a backlight powered by the bike that would go on and off with the ignition. Does such an animal exist?
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Oct 7, 2008 21:27
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Phat_Albert posted:Does such an animal exist? Yes, but they're usually integrated with voltmeters and thermometers.
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Oct 7, 2008 21:33
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Nerobro posted:Yes, but they're usually integrated with voltmeters and thermometers. Thats fine, actually, as long as I can leave it in clock mode and have the backlight come on when I turn the key.
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Oct 7, 2008 21:34
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Phat_Albert posted:Does such an animal exist?
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Oct 7, 2008 22:06
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Phat_Albert posted:Heres a question. The Bandit doesnt have a clock, and this bugs me. I see plenty of stick-on battery operated clocks. Those are all well and good, but I do a significant amount of night riding. Yes. Set up a relay box like I linked to earlier and find a backlit watch that'll take 12vs. I'd recommend a bicycle computer, actually, because it'll probably be cheap and easy to come by.
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Oct 7, 2008 22:13
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Z3n posted:Yes. Set up a relay box like I linked to earlier and find a backlit watch that'll take 12vs. I'd recommend a bicycle computer, actually, because it'll probably be cheap and easy to come by. I'm actually going to buy the parts for the relay junction box at radio shack today. Phy posted:Yeah, the instrument panel for the Super Sherpa. What now?
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Oct 7, 2008 22:13
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Not really what you're looking for and I'm being a dink by mentioning it, basically. But this has a digital instrument panel, no tach, but it does have a clock mode. I really miss that clock mode.
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Oct 7, 2008 22:27
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I only got my new bike last week ( drz ) but it looks like I may not have a car to drive to work for a few days. It's got about 350 kms on it so far , but the problem is that I have to leave early in ylthe morning so I won't be able to warm it up for a few minutes like a normally do. Is getting on and rideng away at all possible without the engine not broken in yet? There's no highways and it's about a 5minute ride up a decently sized hill.
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Oct 8, 2008 00:33
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Dubs posted:I only got my new bike last week ( drz ) but it looks like I may not have a car to drive to work for a few days. It's got about 350 kms on it so far , but the problem is that I have to leave early in ylthe morning so I won't be able to warm it up for a few minutes like a normally do. That's a bullet-proof engine. You should be fine, just try and vary your RPMs up.
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Oct 8, 2008 00:40
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I bought a 1982 Suzuki GS750E with 29k on it, knowing nothing about bikes. It hasn't been ridden in about 3 weeks according to the past owner. When I first got it, it wouldn't start at all, completely dead. Intermittent power to the lights and starter button -- I replaced one of the fuse clips which was completely corroded, seems to be working fine now. Next, the starter motor wouldn't turn at all, the solenoid worked, but the engine didn't turn. I was worried that the starter was hosed, but opening it up, it looks like the lead to the starter motor is just really corroded, I was able to get it to turn by manually hooking up 12V to it. Engine still wouldn't start though. So, questions: 1) What would be a good way to clean the contacts for the lead to the starter? I'm going to get replacement washers and nut, but I need to clean the actual bolt coming out of the motor. Anything that I could apply to it to derust it without having to remove the whole thing? 2) What should I check next? I'm guessing spark plugs/carb if the starter's turning but the engine's still not starting. 3) What maintenance should I do once I get the bike running? I was thinking chain lube, brake pads, fork pressures. Anything else important? 4) The turn signals blink intermittently. Sometimes when I turn it on, the relay works, sometimes it doesn't and they stay constantly lit. Is this indicative of any specific problem or just indicative of the general voodoo state of this bike's electrical system?
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Oct 8, 2008 04:52
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relaxzguy posted:1) What would be a good way to clean the contacts for the lead to the starter? I'm going to get replacement washers and nut, but I need to clean the actual bolt coming out of the motor. Anything that I could apply to it to derust it without having to remove the whole thing? 1. A little sandpaper works great for this. Failing that get a small nail file. 2. Clean out the carbs thoroughly and you'll probably be fine. If you do the plugs make sure you gap them correctly to the factory specs. 3. Fork oil, transmission/crankcase oil, chain, check the tires, lube any points that have a grease fitting. 3. Probably a bad flasher unit. Mine are doing exactly this right now and its definitely the flasher unit as I can get them to blink if I tap the flasher with a screwdriver.
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Oct 8, 2008 05:06
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I dropped my KLR a couple of times two weeks ago, both were offroad, zero-speed fuckups. Once on each side. (I'm dealing with replacing the plastics and have ordered some crashbars. God I wish IMS made a tank for the 2nd-gens, or at least that there were cheap 3rd-party panels) Since then I've noticed a weird-rear end vibration through my footpegs at about 15 kph: it alternates. One peg will vibrate for a bit, then the other side. It's not engine-related, far as I can tell, as it still happens when I clutch in, the only thing that makes it happen is going 15 kph. If the vibes occur at higher speeds they're blending in to whatever the bike does normally, which is kind of a lot. The bike does have some mods that may have introduced vibration, notably a 3rd-party skidplate. Any idea what the hell might be going on? I don't believe the wheels or brake rotors are out of true, since the bike is steady as ever at speed and under braking.
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Oct 8, 2008 05:25
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I was reading the R6 forums and a guy on there works for cycle gear and he said on the 25th of Oct. They will be offering IN STORE Pirelli Diablo's as a set for 179 bucks. You can call your local store and reserve it but it won't be on their site. It's in store only.
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Oct 8, 2008 15:52
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Noice, nearest Cycle Gear is two states away 
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Oct 8, 2008 16:08
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OptimusMatrix posted:I was reading the R6 forums and a guy on there works for cycle gear and he said on the 25th of Oct. They will be offering IN STORE Pirelli Diablo's as a set for 179 bucks. You can call your local store and reserve it but it won't be on their site. It's in store only. It's worth noting that these are about 3 tire "generations" old now...the old school pirelli high performance tire. Still, if you just need something cheap to toss on there, or are commuting and don't haul rear end through the twisties, they'll be great. Certainly better than anything that you could get for the same price. Just don't expect them to act like a current generation set of tires.
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Oct 8, 2008 17:21
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While we're on the subject of tires can anyone recommend me some decent tires for my bike (1978 Honda Hawk)? They'll be used mainly for commuting so I'd like to find some with decent life. The original metric sizes, which are on the bike now, are 3.60-19 front and 4.10-18 back and they're some vintage looking Dunlop things that the previous owner had put on. I'd like something a bit more modern looking and performing. As far as I can tell I need a 100/90x19 front and a 110/90x18 rear. Searching google for these sizes pops up a ton of motocross tires, but very few road tires. OldBikeBarn gives me the following results: Dunlop GT501 Dunlop D404 Dunlop F24 Dunlop F11 Dunlop K627 Qualifier Bridgestone Spitfire S11 Bridgestone Battlax (battle axe? wtf) BT45 Avon Venom Bias Avon Roadrider AM26 Cheng Shin Marquis C833 Cheng Shin Hi-Max C907 Conti Milestone Kenda Kruz A bunch of these are front only, so I'm guessing that it's ok to mix front and rear brands. Any help on this would be great as I've never purchased motorcycle tires before. greg_graffin fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Oct 8, 2008 |
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Oct 8, 2008 20:08
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What bike was it again? you don't need to buy the "exact" tires for your ride. BT45 and Sport Demons are available in those diameters, and close to the right widths.
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Oct 8, 2008 20:12
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It's a 1978 Honda Hawk. Does it matter if I get a bias ply vs. a radial tire?
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Oct 8, 2008 20:42
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greg_graffin posted:It's a 1978 Honda Hawk. Does it matter if I get a bias ply vs. a radial tire? Some people say so. But both tires I recommended are bias ply. Ah, and now I see that you did list the BT45. :-) Don't mix tire brands. Feel free to go 10, or even 20mm wider on the front or rear to get a set that works.
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Oct 8, 2008 20:46
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From quickly reading some reviews, it looks like the BT45 is a winner. Gets good treadlife while still giving good traction, and they're cheap. Have any of you goons run this tire before and can vouch for it personally?
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Oct 8, 2008 20:51
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greg_graffin posted:Bridgestone Battlax (battle axe? wtf) BT45 I'm sure new tyres are better than a lovely old pair, but while I have no experience with the other brands you've mentioned there, I would not recommend the BT45s. They are just a terrible tyre, with uninspiring grip and feedback - the only redeeming feature of them seems to be that Bridgestone seems willing to make them in every size combination under the sun. Edit: I put them on a 1984 Yamaha FJ600, and my experience with them has steered me away from Bridgestone ever since.
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Oct 8, 2008 20:56
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Simkin posted:I would not recommend the BT45s. They are just a terrible tyre, with uninspiring grip and feedback
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Oct 8, 2008 21:02
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I'm pretty indifferent to Bridgestones. I've had Battlaxes on a few bikes, and I havent been really disappointed or impressed by them. The only tires I really hate on are Dunlops. I've never had a set that I liked. The best tires I've ever had were the Pilot Powers on my GSXR. My Bandit has a set of Battlaxes on it currently, and I'm extremely "meh" about them.
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Oct 8, 2008 21:03
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greg_graffin posted:What would you recommend instead? Perelli Sport Demons are the "other" tire. The BT45's have really good tread life. The sport Demons have good tread life, and are stickier.
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Oct 8, 2008 21:13
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greg_graffin posted:What would you recommend instead? The BT45's are the more "touring" tire in those sizes, and the Sport Demons are the more "sport" tire. I hated dunlops when I ran 208Fs, back in teh day, but now I'm in love with the 211GPs. Sometimes a company will make a piss poor tire, but the replacement will be great. The qualifiers? drat good. 208GPs? drat good. 208Fs? Horrible. Supposedly the new bridgestone DOT race tires are drat good too. And they're making a lightweight slick for the SV's and such... What i'm saying is...if you see a tire that's getting great reviews, don't put too much faith in what you experienced with one set of tires. I've heard of people bitching about Bridgestone, dunlop, michelin, only to learn they're running 8+ year old tires that are coming apart at the seams. 
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Oct 8, 2008 21:55
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The current tires I have are Dunlop Roadmaster TT100s, K70 in the front and K81 in the rear. They were apparently the first production tires to do the Isle of Man TT circuit at 100mph+  They are also tube tires. Will that be a problem if I move to a tubeless tire? Thanks for all the help guys. I'll have to read up some more before I can decide between the Speed Demons and the BT45s.
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Oct 9, 2008 00:10
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greg_graffin posted:Cheng Shin Hi-Max C907 I'm a really cheap fucker, and had Cheng Shins put on my bike. I use my bike pretty much exclusively for running around town, but I've had no complaints with the tires. I have taken my bike up the twisty canyons a couple times and they gripped just fine. Also done 70+ on the freeway with no ill effects. I've put probably over 2k on them and they still look new. If you do any high-performance riding I would tell you to get something else, but if they're beater tires for a beater bike...?
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Oct 9, 2008 00:12
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greg_graffin posted:They are also tube tires. Will that be a problem if I move to a tubeless tire? Thanks for all the help guys. I'll have to read up some more before I can decide between the Speed Demons and the BT45s.
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Oct 9, 2008 05:46
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 02:52 |
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Well I'm financially ready to buy a motorcycle. 89 Kawasaki Ninja $1300. quote:In good shape, new tires, smooth ride, clear title 33612 miles. Just dont have time to ride it. Here's the craiglist http://odessa.craigslist.org/mcy/835574617.html Any thoughts? The whole time I was negotiating I thought it was a Ninja 250. Turns out its a Ninja 600....is this okay? ???
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Oct 9, 2008 06:27
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