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americanzero4128 posted:I'll give the seafoam a try, because I've had this happen across multiple tanks of gas. From what I've read, it just breaks down the carbon buildup in my engine, correct? Is there anything else I need to know about before using it? If I have clogs in my carbs, what can I do about that (or is that what the seafoam does)? It's basically an additive that helps clean out anywhere that the gas flows, which means if there's some minor varnishing in your pilot jets, some seafoam and a lot of full throttle to get gas flowing through the carbs can sometimes clean out the carbs. Has the bike been maintained according to the maintenance schedule?
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 19:23 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 09:55 |
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Z3n posted:It's basically an additive that helps clean out anywhere that the gas flows, which means if there's some minor varnishing in your pilot jets, some seafoam and a lot of full throttle to get gas flowing through the carbs can sometimes clean out the carbs. Also, prepare for lots of smoke if your carbs are dirty. It's normal and can be very fun!
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 19:31 |
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oops wrong thread
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 19:47 |
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Hi everyone. I don't really know too much about motorcycles but I've got a question. I am starting Formula SAE at my university and I need to choose a power plant for it. I am split between the CBR600RR and the GSXR600 engines. I know it's a really broad question, but which one would be better? I am looking at it from an aftermarket, performance, and reliability standpoint. I don't care at all about price. The rules list 610cc as the max displacement.
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 22:10 |
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rcman50166 posted:Hi everyone. I don't really know too much about motorcycles but I've got a question. I am starting Formula SAE at my university and I need to choose a power plant for it. I am split between the CBR600RR and the GSXR600 engines. I know it's a really broad question, but which one would be better? I am looking at it from an aftermarket, performance, and reliability standpoint. I don't care at all about price. The rules list 610cc as the max displacement. What sort of aftermarket/performance/reliability standpoint? I mean, there's plenty of stuff available for both of those engines as they sit in stock form, but once you rip it out of the frame, a lot of that aftermarket stuff is gonna go out the window. Need more info than "which is better". They're both reliable, ~110 hp engines that will go the distance as long as they've been cared for properly.
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 22:26 |
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rcman50166 posted:I am split between the CBR600RR and the GSXR600 engines. Any particular reason you're not including the ZX-6R and R6 engines? You know, to have as many options as possible? On paper, the R6 engine develops the most power, a slight power advantage could be beneficial.
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 22:35 |
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Z3n posted:What sort of aftermarket/performance/reliability standpoint? I mean, there's plenty of stuff available for both of those engines as they sit in stock form, but once you rip it out of the frame, a lot of that aftermarket stuff is gonna go out the window. I'm not entirely sure what you want me to say. As I said it's a pretty broad question. I suppose I would be looking for things like throttle response time, powerband comparisons, weight, and I guess which engine might handle a turbo and restrictor plate better. As far as losing aftermarket capability outside the bike frame, what do you mean? I am capable of making any support systems the engine might need both mechanically and electronically. KozmoNaut posted:Any particular reason you're not including the ZX-6R and R6 engines? I have not looked into a ZX-6R or an R6 engine. I just know that a ton of teams use the two aforementioned engines more than any others. Again, I don't know much about motorcycles as far as what is available on the market. rcman50166 fucked around with this message at Sep 14, 2011 around 22:40 |
| # ? Sep 14, 2011 22:37 |
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I don't really have any input on engines, but I just wanted to say that looks fun as hell and I wish my college had something like that 
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 22:43 |
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SaNChEzZ posted:I don't really have any input on engines, but I just wanted to say that looks fun as hell and I wish my college had something like that Hey, I'm establishing it in my school nearly by myself for the first time this year. If you build it they will come. As you said, it's fun as hell.
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 22:56 |
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rcman50166 posted:I'm not entirely sure what you want me to say. As I said it's a pretty broad question. I suppose I would be looking for things like throttle response time, powerband comparisons, weight, and I guess which engine might handle a turbo and restrictor plate better. As far as losing aftermarket capability outside the bike frame, what do you mean? I am capable of making any support systems the engine might need both mechanically and electronically. Throttle response is most dependent on tuning of the bike. Powerband comparisons at WOT can be determined best by dyno chart comparisons, however, as you will not be using any of the exhaust systems available (I assume), they're going to be effectively useless. Turbos on 600s are uncommon as if you're going for big numbers for drag racing (the typical use of turbos), you're going to be better off starting on a bike that has more displacement to start with. You also probably don't want a turbo on a 600 supersport, as you're going to make the power peaky as hell and the throttle response is going to go to poo poo. You're going to lose aftermarket support outside of the frame because all the aftermarket stuff is designed around the engine being in the stock frame/subframe, from exhausts to airboxes. Everything with these engines comes down to tuning. If you can't get the tuning done, don't worry about turbos, don't worry about what handles XYZ better under certain conditions, you're talking about generally replacing at least a complete exhaust system, if not the airbox and injection stuff as well (if you go forced induction), and what it comes down to is the only important thing here is that you have the resources to tune the bike a reasonable amount. Everything depends on having an engine with a smooth, even powerband, if you can't get the power to the ground smoothly, you'll never go fast. You're talking about a high performance, high compression, 16k+ RPM engine, if you don't get your tuning right, the engine is going to be useless. Edit: B8.5.2 could make most modern motorcycle engines illegal, depending on how they define "Drive by wire". Basically all modern bikes have dual butterflies (one set controlled by the throttle cables, one set controlled by the computer), some bikes are completely controlled by drive by wire. (06+ Yamaha R6). Z3n fucked around with this message at Sep 14, 2011 around 23:09 |
| # ? Sep 14, 2011 23:03 |
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The Japanese 600s are all really similar and relatively interchangeable. I don't think theres a big enough difference between them to really state that one of the engines is clearly the "best" for your needs. I'm assuming you're going to be buying second hand? The deciding factor really might be whats available in your area and at what prices.
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 23:17 |
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In this case, the best 600 is the newest one you can afford, I'm pretty sure.
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| # ? Sep 14, 2011 23:35 |
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Endless Mike posted:In this case, the best 600 is the newest one you can afford, I'm pretty sure. Avoiding the 06+ R6, due to the throttle by wire rules, yeah. Although there's some simplicity in carbs that might be beneficial if he doesn't have access to proper dyno for tuning.
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| # ? Sep 15, 2011 00:31 |
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If you want to be different you could use a V-Twin. My Uni's SAE team uses a 550cc engine from the Aprilia RXV550.
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| # ? Sep 15, 2011 02:29 |
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Any reason you guys chose the RXV instead of an I4? A few more torques is nice I guess but I feel like in a racing situation where you at 10k+ on these motors all the time it's no biggie. Are there a lot of other teams that choose v twins?
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| # ? Sep 15, 2011 02:34 |
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JP Money posted:Any reason you guys chose the RXV instead of an I4? A few more torques is nice I guess but I feel like in a racing situation where you at 10k+ on these motors all the time it's no biggie. It's lighter and smaller than any of the Jap I4s as far as I know. There are a few teams that use twins or singles here, but the majority go for Jap I4s because they're so readily available and there's heaps of support for them.
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| # ? Sep 15, 2011 05:35 |
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I don't think the SAE cars do a lot of sustained cornering, but you may want to watch/research oil starvation issues with bike engines. Some engines are more tolerant than others. Due to bikes leaning in corners, oil is always pulled downward to the pan. When a bike engine is upright all the time in a 4 wheeled vehicle (and sometimes leaning a little to the outside of a turn) oil starvation can sometimes be an issue when cornering forces oil to the side.
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| # ? Sep 15, 2011 18:08 |
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Quick question so I get an idea of what I'm in for. I'm taking my bike (2005 Yamaha Virago 250vx) in to the shop next week. I recently had my sprockets and chain replaced by the shop, and since then, when I hit 40mph, there's this clicking noise. It clicks repeatedly anywhere from 2-30 seconds, but the moment I hit around 50mph, it goes away and won't come back until I'm back into the 40-50mph speeds. Anyone ever run into this or know what it could be?
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| # ? Sep 16, 2011 00:54 |
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Questions: I have a DL650. I've been noticing lately it doesn't seem as 'stable' as it used to (though it might have always been this way and it's just my imagination, as I've only had it this summer) By stable I mean that with my old DRZ400SM, I could very reliably engine brake from 40mph all the way down with both my hands off the grips and there would be nary a shake or shimmy assuming flat pavement. With the DL650, if I reduce the pressure I'm holding onto the bars with, right before I'm about to take my hands off completely I usually start to get headshake even on smooth pavement, and have to grab the bars again (this happens especially in the 40-50mph area). With the old DRZ it was no problem to engine brake and adjust goggles with both hands, with the DL650 I don't really feel comfortable doing that. Problem two: the bike also has two big old pelican cases that I throw groceries in. Recently even just having a gallon of milk and a bag of groceries on one side of the bike will make it always want to pull one direction quite noticeably. When I keep extra pressure on the appropriate side of the bars the bike goes straight with no vibrations or anything weird; it just want to pull to the side which is a little unnerving. The only possibly related work I've had done recently was a new rear tire put on. The front tire is starting to get close to the end of its life, but there's no crazy cupping or anything (I can take a picture if the front tire might be it). What could be causing the headshake/instability? And is the pulling to one side with a little weight difference something linked, or just a normal fact of how you load cargo? I'm a lot more positive this is something new, as I've done a ton of shopping for random crap and don't think I've ever bothered to balance things out perfectly.
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| # ? Sep 16, 2011 04:17 |
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I'd check these: Tire pressures Steering head bearings/steering nut torque Wheel bearings Bolt inspection/tightening on front & rear suspension components Chain/rear wheel straightness Forks/shock leaking? MrZig fucked around with this message at Sep 16, 2011 around 04:45 |
| # ? Sep 16, 2011 04:37 |
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If the rear wheel is all that changed; I would check that it is mounted straight using the 'string thing' method
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| # ? Sep 16, 2011 04:40 |
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Difference in wear patterns between your front and rear tires can cause that. Is the chain on the virago 250 lubed? Also check that the bolts/nuts on the sprocket are tight and the chain doesn't have any tight spots or sticking links.
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| # ? Sep 16, 2011 05:07 |
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Ziploc posted:I don't think the SAE cars do a lot of sustained cornering, but you may want to watch/research oil starvation issues with bike engines. Some engines are more tolerant than others. Due to bikes leaning in corners, oil is always pulled downward to the pan. When a bike engine is upright all the time in a 4 wheeled vehicle (and sometimes leaning a little to the outside of a turn) oil starvation can sometimes be an issue when cornering forces oil to the side. rcman50166, solution here will usually be a sump baffle. Larger engines are a slightly better known quantity due to use in kit cars. There's a lot more knowledge out there on what to use, how to build it and how to turbocharge it if you go for 900cc+ mills. See e.g. http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk I don't know if you have a capacity limit, though why you would if you're allowed FI I don't know. Honda's 893 and 918cc CBR900RR fireblade engines will give a similar peak power figure to contemporary 600s with more low-down torque, which tends to be helpful in a Outside of what you can get from the above, you're going to need to talk to an experienced engine builder, I suspect, to get the detailed information you're looking for. Average joe bikers don't do enough work on engines out of the OEM chassis to know what happens when you start dicking with them and thus where the weaknesses of a particular powerplant lie. Especially if you're using slightly older powerplants, John Robinson's book may be helpful inasmuch as it's bike-engine focused, although perhaps a little too basic for you? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Motorcycle-...r/dp/0750618051 Man_of_Teflon, it's most likely the effect of the front being worn out and the nature of wide-barred trailies (not especially stable at speed). An alternative, especially if you've been slamming down wheelies at every opportunity, is that you have loose or worn head bearings. CubanRefugee, I'd check that your front and rear sprocket nuts (or bolts as appropriate) are present and properly attached as a matter of urgency. If one of those comes off, you can derail the chain with expensive and unpleasant results. Saga fucked around with this message at Sep 16, 2011 around 09:09 |
| # ? Sep 16, 2011 09:06 |
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Sounds like I should invest in a new front tire and make sure all that other stuff is tightened/not leaking/aligned. Thanks!
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| # ? Sep 16, 2011 12:45 |
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Thanks for the heads up, guys. The chain is indeed lubed, and I'll check the nuts/bolts on the sprockets today after work.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 00:24 |
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Is there any mechanism I can use to help stabilize a parked bike against wind other than parking it in an enclosed area? I didn't see it happen but a storm rolled through while I was in class and I suspect the wind tipped it over. Someone picked it up for me before I got there. Month old CBR250R. The damage is minor from what I can tell and I have a warranty so I'm not terribly upset but I'm a newbie rider so I was extra careful on the roads but didn't even think of something like this happening.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 05:07 |
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Short of sheltering it or some sort of anchor system, make sure it's on the side stand with the prevailing wind so the wind is pushing it "into" the stand if anything. I don't think your warranty is going to be a lot of help covering damage from something like this.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 05:29 |
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Make sure you park it so it's leaning downhill, don't park on sideways slopes in the first place if you can. Don't use a bike cover if you're expecting wind, it just acts as a sail. If you can, park against a building, in an alley or something like that so the wind is more minor. It generally takes a pretty serious gale to knock a bike over. If your bike fell over and got picked up there's a non-zero chance someone just bumbled into it.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 05:37 |
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slidebite posted:I don't think your warranty is going to be a lot of help covering damage from something like this. It's possible someone knocked it over I just suspect the wind since it did get wild that day and the spots for bikes are in an open, flat area without much to disrupt it. I was getting pushed around on the roads quite a bit on the commute too, kind of scared me until I got used to it. Was uncovered as well.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 05:54 |
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I guess if you wanted to get real creative you could trim the sidestand a bit to lean the bike over further.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 06:48 |
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I left my bike (sv650, around 375 lbs) on its side stand out in an open apartment parking lot during the east coast hurricane two weeks ago. I went out to check on it a few times during some extremely windy periods and it turned out to be much more stable than I thought it would be. I think there's a good chance that someone just bumped into your bike.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 07:35 |
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So I'm starting my winter project soon, still not quite sure what I'm going to do to my Dnepr.. Either I'm going to make it into a 50s style cruiser, or a cafe racer. That said, I need a donor bike and not quite sure what to look for. I want front and rear off a Japanese shaft drive bike, preferably one with non-tiny wheels and dual front disc brakes. Any suggestions as to what donor bike(s) to look for?
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 08:41 |
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lowcrabdiet posted:I left my bike (sv650, around 375 lbs) on its side stand out in an open apartment parking lot during the east coast hurricane two weeks ago. I went out to check on it a few times during some extremely windy periods and it turned out to be much more stable than I thought it would be. I think there's a good chance that someone just bumped into your bike. Same exact experience(down to the bike), but that week I also learned sidestands are good even through fairly significant earthquakes too. I did a lot of worrying about my bike on the ground that week.
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| # ? Sep 17, 2011 13:47 |
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Hey guys, I just want to say thanks for the advice. There are some forums in SA that are generally less helpful and stick to the general satirical nature of the site. But not you guys. I'll probably start a project thread when the project gets off the ground. Not sure when that will be, my university is awful at politics and bureaucracy. But keep an eye out in AI roughly toward the beginning of the new year. Otherwise, thanks again.
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| # ? Sep 18, 2011 03:30 |
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rcman50166 posted:Hey guys, I just want to say thanks for the advice. There are some forums in SA that are generally less helpful and stick to the general satirical nature of the site. But not you guys. I'll probably start a project thread when the project gets off the ground. Not sure when that will be, my university is awful at politics and bureaucracy. But keep an eye out in AI roughly toward the beginning of the new year. Otherwise, thanks again. You're welcome! Looking forward to seeing your project thread when it all starts. Post up here too if you have any bike specific questions or need help with the prep stuff.
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| # ? Sep 18, 2011 04:35 |
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Today I noticed how the left side of my front and rear tire have significantly less tread than the right side of the tires. Is this just me leaning a lot more to the left or something? I have noticed that I tend to dip down lower on left turn than right ones but honestly I didn't think it was that bad. Now I'm starting to think I have some kind of right hand turn phobia or something. There's no mechanical explanation for this, is there?
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| # ? Sep 18, 2011 07:12 |
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Whiteboy posted:Today I noticed how the left side of my front and rear tire have significantly less tread than the right side of the tires. Is this just me leaning a lot more to the left or something? I have noticed that I tend to dip down lower on left turn than right ones but honestly I didn't think it was that bad. Now I'm starting to think I have some kind of right hand turn phobia or something. There's no mechanical explanation for this, is there? This is a common thing from what I've read. People don't like right turns on motorcycles for some reason. I keep reading that it has something to do with the throttle being on the right. I could be wrong though. 
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| # ? Sep 18, 2011 07:30 |
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Yep. This is really obvious in right u-turns versus left ones. You just need to learn not to automatically jack the throttle, just like you need to learn how to turn your head without automatically turning the bars as well. Edit: or run your favorite roads in reverse.
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| # ? Sep 18, 2011 14:55 |
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It also has to do with (at least in the US) when you're turning hard left on a twisty road, psychologically you have room if you need it in the left lane, whereas the right side is filled with guard rails/mailboxes/trees/the mountain and may have reduced visibility. So you take left turns harder.
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| # ? Sep 18, 2011 15:39 |
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| # ? May 25, 2013 09:55 |
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That's crazy haha. What do you mean by jack the throttle? Not throttle so hard on the exit of the turn? I look through the turn and look where I want to go, not right in front of me. Is that not what I'm supposed to do?
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| # ? Sep 18, 2011 17:04 |
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